The Other Side of the Planet

Finding Home in Ban Sop Chem

“I was never not coming here. This was never not going to happen.” -Eat Pray Love

From the moment I landed in Laos, surrounded by mountains and green, something in my soul felt like it had slipped perfectly into place. Back before I started traveling, I spent a lot of time struggling with the meaning of my life and what I was doing. I didn’t think that what I was currently doing had the power to make the impact I wanted it to. So, I went searching, and I found myself in Laos, a country I’d never heard of before signing up to go.

Both times on the boats, when we were arriving in and leaving Sop Chem, I cried. I expected to upon leaving—I hate goodbyes, I always try to frame them as a “see you later,” and this time around I really hoped it was true because the moment we arrived, no, before we arrived, when we were simply traveling down the Nam Ou River with mountains as tall as Montana’s glaciers casting shadows on the water and our boat and the trees, I suddenly felt a whisper of “oh, this is why.”

View from the restaurant in Sop Chem

Why I came here, why I didn’t feel like what I was working on before had much purpose, why I was put on this planet. I was supposed to do something bigger. I arrived as a volunteer, and I left knowing I needed to come back.

I spent the week with the locals, getting to know them by name and spending more time with them than I would ever spend with my neighbors back in California. We were able to connect without language. I played games with children who just wanted to learn from us, I made emotional connections with the village’s women, I tried their food, and stayed in their homes. I pet their dogs, and ate lunch with views of their river, a river that would always symbolize the act of arriving here.

Working with the children was one of the most fulfilling moments for me. I arrived in Southeast Asia expecting to put most of my energy into permaculture—it was sustainability that brought me out there in the first place. But the truth is, the connections with the people is what made me want to stay. In Laos, I worked with the young boys to teach them English. I picked them because I have a little brother, and I knew most people would want to work with the girls anyway, and the boys deserved that attention and love too. I knew they’d be a handful, but sometimes mischief is fun, and it turns out, my favorite students were the troublemakers.

Some of my students, playing in the river

Of course, I loved all of them, and I’m incredibly proud of the progress they made just in the time I was with them, but the ones whose names I’ll forever remember are Khan and Leek, to the older boys (about 8 or 9) who came to the intermediate class to learn English on their last 3 days of winter break. They were mischievous, but that meant they were smart. They didn’t have to be there—they showed up because they wanted to. They came and went as they pleased, but still enjoyed a good coloring book and sticker at the end of the day. Khan can give a high five that will knock your soul straight out of your body. Leek is soft at heart, I can tell, but he likes showing off—being the center of attention.

At the end of the school day, the boys disappeared, like children of the jungle and the mountains, dispersing into the hiking trails and roads and trees, while the girls stick around to play games. Phun is the girl who always picked me as her partner for games, and later in the week, for dancing. She’s about 7 years old and she was never my student. She just learned my name when her friend Noona asked. I wanted to ask her why she always picked me, but she doesn’t know enough English and I don’t know enough Lao and “why” is a hard question to answer in any language, so I’ll just go with the idea that she either liked my energy or my pants. I hope that one day I can ask her, but the truth is, even when I do eventually find my way back there, the odds are, she probably won’t remember me the way Noona would, who remembers every volunteer from the past three years. They’re best friends, those girls, and I wish I could have given them so much more.

After the Baci Ceremony

I sat, on one of my last days in Sop Chem, hanging in my hammock in the restaurant where we always ate our meals, looking out over the Nam Ou River for one of the last times until next time (whenever that may be). My legs were bug bitten and bruised and my Teva tan was back and my soul felt so at peace there that the thought of leaving and never coming back broke my heart. I’d never wanted to stay somewhere longer than I wanted to stay there. I didn’t feel like I was on the other side of the planet from home. It felt like my soul had always been trying to find this place.

My last morning in Sop Chem also happened to be my birthday. The last night of my year had been spent dancing to an hour long remix of songs from my childhood under the stars, barefoot, in the center of a village in the center of mountains with Baci chords tied around my wrists for good luck. I felt so full, that day, even knowing that the morning meant leaving, and as we did, back on the boats that brought us to our new home in Ban Sop Chem in the first place, it didn’t feel like the people on the shore of the river were saying goodbye, not forever, at least, not for me.

Three Must-Visit Spots in Laos

I recently returned from Southeast Asia, where I volunteered for a month in Thailand and Laos with GIVE Volunteers. It’s no question that, of the two countries, Laos made the bigger impact on me as a person, a traveler, and a global citizen. Laos is an incredibly special country, and the truth is, two years ago, like many of you, I had no idea it even existed.

Laos is a small, landlocked country just north of Thailand. It borders four other countries as well: China, Vietnam, Myanmar, and Cambodia. It’s known for its mountains, Buddhist culture, and waterfalls.

During our time in Laos, we visited three major spots (IE: one city, one backpacking village, and one remote village). This is the best journey through this beautiful country that will show you the best of Laos, from Luang Prabang to Sop Chem.

View from the Nam Ou River

Luang Prabang City

Not to be confused with Luang Prabang Province, Luang Prabang City is the first part of Laos I got to experience. It’s a clean city with plenty of hostels (we stayed at Mao Pha Sohk Guesthouse), vans available as public transport, markets, and culture.

Luang Prabang is gorgeous, even for a city, and is home to a fantastic array of restaurants (Coconut Restaurant is a crowd favorite), as well as a huge night market that happens daily, starting at 5pm (Laos time). Our first day started with participating in the Alms ceremony, where we gave rice to monks as they made their way to temple. This is definitely something to experience, even though it starts at 5 am daily.

Another must-see in Luang Prabang is Tat Kuang Si National Park. This National Park is home to Kuang Si Falls, the famous waterfalls that are known as being one of the most beautiful places in the world, and the Free the Bears Moon Bear Sanctuary (who accept donations HERE). Both spots are incredibly important to witness for that perfect balance of cultural understanding and natural beauty.

The last must-see in Luang Prabang is the UXO museum. The UXO museum stands for the fact that Laos is the most bombed country and the most affected by the Vietnam War. Still, there is unexploded ordinance scattered throughout the country. True responsible tourism is understanding the culture, and there is no such thing as understanding Lao culture without talking about UXO.

View from Mao Pha Sohk Guesthouse at sunrise

Ban Sop Chem

Sop Chem is easily one of my favorite places on Earth. Sop Chem is a remote weaving village located directly on the Nam Ou River, and the best way to access it is by boat.

Sop Chem thrives on tourism. Most tourists just come for a day trip from Nong Kiaw, but there is a hostel in Sop Chem if you’d like to stay the night and experience this remote village for the night.

Here, we volunteered at the local school and permaculture plot, but also participated in plenty of cultural activities that tourists would also be able to experience, such as shopping for hand-woven fabrics, hiking to the Power China dam site, and exploring Tam Lom, a cave where the villagers of Sop Chem hid during the war (but please don’t go without a guide).

The people of Sop Chem are some of the most welcoming I’ve ever met, so stay a while if you can, pet the dogs, and play cards with the local kids—this is an experience like no other.

Ban Sop Chem

Nong Kiaw

Nong Kiaw was the backpacker village we stayed in on our way back to Luang Prabang from Sop Chem where we stayed in the Sunrise Hostel, and spent my birthday adventuring. There is so much nature to experience in Laos, and a lot of those beautiful places are right in Nong Kiaw.

Two of the most notable are the Pha Thok Cave and Pha Deang Peak hike. The Pha Thok Cave is another combination of nature and culture, as it gives you another perspective into the history of the country during wartime. Pha Deang Peak is a strenuous, approximately 6 mile hike that gains 3,000 feet in elevation from bottom to top. This is a genuine mountain summit hike, but it comes bearing some of the best views in the country.

View from Pha Deang Peak, Nong Kiaw

Laos is truly one of the most beautiful places I’ve ever been. It’s known for village communities, mountains, and rivers, and the culture is like no other. I hear a lot of talk about visiting Southeast Asia, and Laos should be on everyone’s list, if not for the beauty, then for the culture.

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Laos (other than Sop Chem, which is a good break from being on the grid) is incredibly backpacker and digital nomad friendly. Learn how to work and make money online with Wired Creatives HERE!

The Truth About Elephant Tourism

Elephant tourism is a hot topic in travel writing right now: what’s considered ethical, what’s not, and the distancing from elephant rides as a tourist attraction. But the problem is, a lot of what you’ll read about elephant tourism comes from the west, and it comes from people who haven’t experienced the truth behind the signs claiming that a sanctuary is ethical.

During my time in Thailand, I got the chance to speak with Eddie, a Mahout who’s worked with elephants his entire life in the remote jungles of Southeast Asia, and amongst all the funny questions the group had about what elephants eat or how often they poop, we got down to the nitty gritty about elephant tourism.

The truth is, even the remote jungles that Eddie works in with his elephant, are close to villages. The jungle sits adjacent to the village of Ba Kao Lam, where there is a school, and small farms that are attached to people’s homes. There isn’t really enough space for elephants left, because, let’s face it, elephants are enormous animals.

Me and Mai Boon Si in Ba Kao Lam, Thailand

When people think about going to see elephants in Southeast Asia, their main requirement is that the sanctuary uses no chains. So many sanctuaries claim this, and keep their elephants out of chains to attract tourists, but the truth is, we don’t know what happens behind closed doors. We don’t know that these elephants are free roaming, and we have no way of knowing whether the elephants are chained up or kept in cages at night.

So, one of the first things I learned about how the Mahouts care for their elephants surprised me: they use chains for the safety of their elephants. Because their elephants are completely free roaming, they have the ability to walk an easy ten miles to the nearest village while the Mahouts are sleeping. Elephants are huge creatures, and this means they never, ever stop eating. When they reach a village, they have the tendency to decimate farms, eat a family’s supply of food, and destroy property. This puts them in more danger than they’re in in the wild—farmers can get angry and kill or injure the elephant before the Mahouts can track them to bring them back to safety in the jungles.

Feeding bananas to elephants in Ba Kao Lam, Thailand

The chains these elephants wear are not tied to anything—they’re able to go wherever they want. But the chains do slow them down. This means that they likely won’t make it to the villages in a single night, which keeps them safe from people trying to protect their farms. The chains also help the Mahouts to track their elephants because they’re able to recognize the pattern the chain makes on the ground, which helps them to find the elephants quickly for health checks and feeding (elephants love bananas).

We had the chance to go trekking with the Mahouts for their elephants, and while it can normally take up to 3 hours to track them, we found them in 8 minutes, just across the stream. They seemed happy to see their Mahouts, as they each have a special bond with their animal, and were even more happy to see us because these 2 elephants—Mai Boon Yen and Mai Boon Si, two sisters and best friends—know that tour groups mean bananas.

We then trekked with the elephants down to the nearby river to give them a bath and feed them their favorite food, where the Mahouts did take off the chains, and I felt, even though I wasn’t sure about the chains at first, that this was truly the best way to make sure that they’re safe, and still kept wild.

Walking the elephants to the river for banana time

So, the moral of the story is, you don’t know that what people tell you is ethical or the truth, and it’s truly best to learn from an expert before forming your own opinion. Give is not the only group that is able to trek with the Mahouts, so definitely look into finding a group to take you on a trek if you’re planning a trip to Thailand. It’s the only way to know for sure that the elephants are taken care of properly.

What It's Really Like to Volunteer Overseas

The Truth About Voluntourism

Lately, I’ve seen a lot of talk about voluntourism online, and the majority of it is, unfortunately, negative. There is a huge stigma being created by the western online community telling people not to volunteer overseas for a number of reasons, but the truth is, volunteering overseas is the most effective way to travel as a conscious consumer and practice true responsible tourism.

I recently had the chance to volunteer with GIVE Volunteers in the Southeast Asian countries of Thailand and Laos. In both countries, I worked on sustainability, permaculture, and English education projects with locals, and experienced what life in these countries is like. Through my work, I’ve gained global citizenship through bringing together people who never would’ve met in an effort to create a better and more connected world, and I’ve become so close to the cultures of these countries that the remote Lao village of Sop Chem started to feel like home.

This is the truth about voluntourism, from someone who has actually done it, been to the countries, and seen the strife and kindness of their people firsthand.

Mueang Khong, Thailand

What is GIVE?

GIVE stands for Growth International Volunteer Excursions. I first learned about GIVE when a recruiter named John came into my Economics class during my senior year at my university. He handed out probably 500 flyers just to that one class, but when I showed up to the info session, only about 10 people sat in the room. Him and my now good friend, Jess told us about the program and its goals to “inspire growth, empower global citizens, and ignite sustainable change worldwide.” I had my heart already set on Thailand, but Jess convinced me to also do the Laos program, even though I hadn’t even heard of the country prior to receiving that flyer. Jess ended up being my guide in Laos, and the trip inspired me to continue creating change with my life. I realized that what I do matters, and can have a larger impact than what I was doing back at home, and because of that, I can genuinely say that GIVE changed my life, and I’ll get to how in the following sections.

(If you sign up for a GIVE trip, make sure you put me, Halle Homel, down as a reference!)

I decided that this trip was a good fit for me because, as a full time traveler, I’m always looking for ways to incorporate as much responsible tourism as I can, and volunteering overseas truly is real responsible tourism. Responsible tourism is more than just Leave No Trace, being a conscious consumer, and even working in your destination to create change. In my eyes, responsible tourism combines all of these things with cultural immersion, so that you as a traveler, have the education to truly understand the place you’re visiting through the eyes of its citizens, which will allow you to really be able to help in the way that they need. GIVE is incredibly good at communicating with the locals in the villages we worked in (Mueang Khong, Thailand and Sop Chem, Laos), and finding out exactly what they needed help with, which included everything from help composting the permaculture plots in Thailand to teaching the children of Sop Chem how to say “tomato” or ask for help in English.

Sop Chem, Laos

How sustainable is it, really?

We all know that flying isn’t the most sustainable form of travel, but giving back to the country you’re visiting is a great way to offset that carbon footprint. What I loved about this trip was that everything we did was based around sustainability, and every excursion wasn’t simply an excursion with a pretty view—each one had an educational purpose that would open our eyes to the culture a little bit more (for example, going caving where Sop Chem villagers hid during the Vietnam War, or trekking for elephants with their mahouts to learn about responsible elephant tourism). But on top of our excursions being beneficial to us and the country, we were working specifically on a lot of sustainability projects.

Permaculture stands for Permanent Culture and Permanent Agriculture, meaning the entire point behind permaculture is to create long lasting agriculture that can help a society move forward in its development through creating independence. On top of that though, our permaculture projects involved caring for plants (hello oxygen), and building a house out of earth bricks (made from mud, sand, and rice). These projects are so good for the planet, and will help move these communities further down the path to development as time goes on.

We also worked on projects with FORRU, a forest restoration group in Thailand, to make sure that new trees were able to grow, and Free the Bears, an animal sanctuary in Tat Kuang Si National Park in Laos. Free the Bears rehabilitates moon bears rescued from the illegal wildlife trade, often from malnutrition, and keeps them safe from hunters. Without both of these groups, our environment might be suffering quite a bit because moon bears are a keystone species, and, well, we know we need more trees.

One of our permaculture plots in Mueang Khong, Thailand

Traveling as a Local

I see a lot nowadays about traveling as a local, and when you volunteer overseas, you’ll have the chance to truly do so. Because your purpose for being in the country is to help out communities that need you, you’ll be living in those communities while you’re there, which will let you get acquainted with the locals on a more intimate level. In Sop Chem specifically, we spent an entire week off the grid, living in the local hostel and becoming fast friends with the locals. We learned how to weave and make rice wine from the people in the village, did a homestay for one night, taught the local children and women English so that they would have more job opportunities as adults, and hung out with the local puppy, a good girl named Bagel. We learned plenty of words in Lao too, and by the end, found it hard to break our habit of saying “Sabaidee!” instead of “hello.”

Local children in Sop Chem playing by the Nam Ou River

How much adventure is there in a volunteer trip?

I know many people travel for site seeing, not to work, or sleep in a local’s home, but the thing about GIVE is that you get a little bit of both. You’ll get that true cultural immersion, but you’ll also get plenty of opportunities for site seeing, as well as excursions you wouldn’t get as just a backpacker since you’ll already be in more remote places.

In Thailand, we got to experience the Buddhist temples, caving, waking up for sunrise, learning to make Pad Thai, weaving with the Karen Tribe, and basket making with the Lasu Tribe, all before building our own bamboo rafts to take down the river from the village of Ba Ko Lam to Pong Nyen, with an elephant trek in between.

In Laos, there was definitely more time to chill in the hammocks or walk down to the river, but we also went caving twice, hiking multiple times (once to the Power China dam being built in Sop Chem and once to Pha Deng Peak in Nong Kiaw), to Kuang Si Falls in Tat Kuang Si National Park, and learned local skills from the people of Sop Chem. We also participated in the morning Alms Ceremony and learned to meditate from a Buddhist monk (and friend of one of our guides).

Me and Mai Boon Si, one of our two elephant friends in Ba Kao Lam, Thailand. Stay tuned for a whole piece on elephant tourism coming soon.

What about the children?

Okay, if you’ve read literally anything about voluntourism prior to this, you’re probably yelling at me for volunteering with children at all overseas. Many people believe that it is cruel to give them our attention and then leave (I do plan on returning to Sop Chem though). But the truth is, these kids rely on us. We didn’t get to work much on the education projects in Thailand due to them being on winter break, so I’m going to talk mostly about Laos here. In Sop Chem, there is no English education program in the school, and yet a Lao person who speaks English is more likely to get a higher paying job as an adult. Sop Chem only has a primary school, and their teacher does not get paid. Their English classes are only taught by volunteers, and the classes are not mandatory, so the children choose to be there, to better their education. Without volunteers, they wouldn’t even have that choice. When the students show up enough, they earn points that GIVE keeps track of so that some children can earn scholarships for secondary education (high school), as they have to go to a neighboring village and live in the dorms to do so. The families of Sop Chem make far less than the national average (only about $1000 USD per year. You can support the women of Sop Chem HERE), so the opportunities of these children are minimal.

Volunteers help to make those dreams a reality, and for some children, like a girl named Noona who liked to hang out and play cards with me in the restaurant where we ate our meals, that education would allow them to become the person they dream of being. For Noona, she remembers every single volunteer by name from the past three years. She is about 7 years old, and speaks some of the best English in the village. If GIVE hadn’t given her that opportunity, she might never realize her potential, and might not have the chance to continue onto secondary school.

The mountains of Sop Chem, Laos. Good vibes to another beautiful day in paradise.

How can voluntourism change your life?

I said earlier in this piece that volunteering overseas changed my life, so before I finish up, I just want to touch on that a little. It’s so easy to only travel comfortably, but that’s never quite been my speed. I easily could’ve just booked a tour around Southeast Asia during this time, instead of spending the majority of my winter sweating in the dry-season humidity building earth bricks and carrying bags of corn husks. The thing is, in college, I had this huge need to feel like I was doing something purposeful with my life, and so I wanted to figure out a way to combine travel with sustainability. Once I actually got to Laos, though, after already having been through the entire Thailand trip, there was a larger feeling of purpose that came to me that was only perpetuated by the connections I made with the villagers.

When I sat learning how to weave from my new Lao friend named Phan, I realized how possible it is to simply be human through interacting without language. We knew exactly what each other meant and felt, without knowing more than a few words in each other’s tongue, and that moment kind of defines global citizenship to me. We are all on team human.

But overall, my trip to this country I’d never heard of opened my eyes to everything that is possible in our world. I saw myself providing education opportunities to more children in the future, helping Free the Bears provide better care for wildlife, and helping to expand the permaculture plot more in future years. There is so much impact you can make in your life—make sure some of it is to help others.

Pong Nyen, a remote village in Thailand, and the childhood home of two of our Thai guides

If you are interested in volunteering with GIVE and have any questions, feel free to email me or comment below. When you sign up, make sure you put me down as a reference!

More posts coming soon about elephant tourism, where we went in Luang Prabang province in Laos, and responsible tourism/global citizenship.

Why It’s More Important Than Ever to #LeaveNoTrace

As we go into 2020, welcome a new decade, and watch the birth of the 62nd National Park in the US (welcome, White Sands!), it’s becoming increasingly apparent how important it is to take care of our wild spaces. Climate change is real, it’s happening, and it’s greatly affecting the places we love and the big one we call home: Earth. This means it’s more crucial than ever that everyone do their part to at least reduce your own personal carbon footprint, because, the truth is, but the old adage goes: if you’re not part of the solution, you’re part of the problem, and in 2020, so much is accessible that you’re honest missing out if you haven’t adopted at least one better for the planet habit. Now, I don’t want to get all sad and depressing on you while we welcome this new year. Instead, I want to talk about why Leave No Trace should be trending, and I don’t just mean on the internet.

Note: this post may contain affiliate links

Big Sur, CA

What is Leave No Trace?

The Leave No Trace Principles, or LNT, are guidelines for all people to follow when they’re exploring wild places. They originated in the US, and gained popularity in the public lands (NPS, USDA, and BLM), but could and should be applied to every place on this planet. There are 7 LNT Principles:

1: Plan ahead and prepare

This just goes with the old boy scout saying: always be prepared. This will allow for your own safety as well as the safety and preservation of the land you’re exploring.

2: Travel and camp on durable surfaces

The idea of principal number 2 is to keep you away from areas that could be severely damaged by your footsteps or tent. Of course, this doesn’t always mean you have to stay on trail—and sometimes you simply can’t, but look out to make sure you’re not damaging any of the land you’re walking on.

3. Dispose of waste properly

This one should be a no brainer—throw away your trash! You wouldn’t just leave garbage on the floor in your house, so don’t do it in the woods, desert, beach, or anywhere else either. Better yet: leave it better than you found it—pick up any trash you find on trails or in campsites as well.

If you’re interested in joining an awesome volunteer group with the goal of cleaning our wild spaces, become a Wildkeeper! Applications open on the Keep Nature Wild website this month. (I am not an affiliate of KNW, I just love and support their cause and have worked as a volunteer with them for over a year.)

Me at the Grand Canyon wearing a shirt I got from Keep Nature Wild (you get a huge discount for joining the ambassador/volunteer program too!)

4: Leave what you find

Have you ever heard the saying “take nothing but pictures, leave nothing but footprints?” I think that pretty much sums up principle number 4, and most of them, actually.

5: Minimize campfire impacts

The last thing you want is to start a wildfire. Make sure that your campfire is only in designated areas such as fire rings when you’re camping so that you can prevent any sparks from flying.

6: Respect wildlife

This is a HUGE one. I see so many people approaching animals in National Parks, and it’s not only incredibly dangerous for them, but it also puts the animal in danger. Please keep your distance from all wildlife, and keep dogs and other pets on designated trails to prevent foreign substances (you know, poop) and bugs from affecting local animals.

7: Be considerate of others

Don’t be the person who’s flying a drone in a National Park. While your shot might look cool, you’re ruining the experience for everyone else who came out to be in nature. Make sure that you’re respectful, and try to avoid traveling to busy spots on holiday weekends.

This deer crossed my trail in Voyageurs National Park, Minnesota. I patiently waited for him to return to the woods before I continued hiking.

Why LNT is so important in 2020

Especially with tourism in our natural spaces being at an all time high, it’s more crucial than ever to leave these spaces better than we found them in order to preserve them for more generations to come. That way, California will still have its oceans, Montana will still have its Glaciers, and the Grand Canyon will still be just as beautiful, even years down the line.

Grinnell Glacier, Glacier National Park, MT. If you look closely you can see the waterfall of melting ice on the right hand side.

What other ways can I help respect my wild spaces?

I’m glad you asked! There are so many ways you can help protect nature at home. Aside from practicing LNT when you’re outside, you can definitely reduce your carbon footprint in your everyday life. Here are some of my favorite ideas:

Don’t buy products with plastic if you can avoid them (shop zero waste products here!)

Shop second hand or ethical clothing (check out one of my favorite ethical clothing brands, Wholesome Culture)

Eat plant based as much as possible (January is a great time to make the switch to a vegan lifestyle!)

Support brands that support our planet when you do need to buy new stuff, like Madera Outdoor, Eco Roots, and larger companies like REI.

Responsible tourism: make sure that when you travel, you’re not impacting the communities you’re visiting in any way, and maybe even find a way to volunteer.

Unplug, go off the grid, run off solar, do whatever you can in your everyday life that makes sense for YOU!

The planet’s tallest trees in Redwood National and State Parks, CA. Let’s plant more in 2020.

Being kinder to our planet is incredibly crucial when it comes to having a cleaner Earth. And this goes much further than simply picking up your trash (but please don’t stop doing so!). It has to do with simply being respectful of our natural places, and doing our part to make our own impact as insignificant as it can be. Making sure that we’re being kind to wildlife, other visitors, and the land we walk on is the best way to make sure that we start taking care of this planet the right way, and truly “leave nothing but footprints.”