southeast asia

My Top 10 Places From My First Year of Travel

Last week, I officially hit my one year anniversary of being on the road. Last June, I hit the road in my Kia Soul with the goal of driving each of the Lower 48 states in one summer, and boy did I accomplish that. I’m now on my second run around the country, moving in the opposite direction. This year has brought a series of ups and downs, transformation, and unexpected plot twists, but more than anything, it’s brought me to some of my favorite places. These are my top 10 favorite spots I’ve been in the past year.

Luang Prabang, Laos

Luang Prabang, Laos

10: Valley of Fire State Park, NV

This one had to make the list because it’s where my journey began, but more than that, it’s one of the prettiest desert landscapes I’ve ever been to. Known for its red rocks, Valley of Fire is famous for its color, its heat, and its history. This state park was formed underwater, and over hundreds of years, became the desert landscape we know today. It’s home to tons of desert wildlife, and beautiful (but sandy) hikes. The whole park can generally be seen in one day, but give it two if you really want the full experience!

Valley of Fire State Park, NV

Valley of Fire State Park, NV

Want access to my 48 state road trip route? Click the button below to get started!

9: Joshua Tree National Park, CA

Joshua Tree will always hold a special place in my heart because it’s the National Park I’ve been to the most times. Five times to be exact! I truly feel like a local when I visit, and I love showing people around. While it wasn’t part of my 48 state itinerary, it was a place I visited 3 times in 2019, and another in early 2020. Joshua Tree is known for its strange agave “trees” that look like something from Doctor Seuss! It’s a hotspot for Park enthusiasts, climbers, and hikers, or just anyone who wants to experience a scenic drive!

Joshua Tree National Park, CA

Joshua Tree National Park, CA

8: Acadia National Park, ME

Acadia blew my mind when I first arrived at the park. It was the first place I ever saw both pine trees and the ocean in one place. This was also the furthest from home I drove solo on my 48 state road trip, so it’s got a certain nostalgia to it. Acadia sits on the Atlantic coast, and is home to pine trees, rocky cliffs, a gorgeous beach, and Cadillac Mountain, which is super fun to drive up for sunset! While it isn’t a huge park, it’s definitely one of the most unique ones I’ve ever visited, and was the first place that convinced me to stay longer than I’d originally planned.

Acadia National Park, ME

Acadia National Park, ME

7: Bend, OR

I never thought I’d put any cities on this list, but Bend stole my heart. Tucked away in the Deschutes National Forest of Central Oregon, Bend is one of the most outdoorsy towns out there. Nearly everyone here does an outdoor sport. And from watching the surfers on the river, to hiking the nearby mountains, to climbing at Smith Rock, there’s an endless amount of outdoor activities to experience here.

Smith Rock State Park in Bend, OR

Smith Rock State Park in Bend, OR

6: Sedona, AZ

Sedona is another town that totally won me over. It’s basically the desert version of Bend, but spiritual. It’s full of vortexes—large areas of strong spiritual energy—so a lot of people come here to meditate, heal, and get away from it all. Sedona is also known for hiking, red rocks, and history. Between exploring the ancient ruins, hiking Devils Bridge, and simply getting red dust all over the car, there’s something for everyone in Sedona.

Cathedral Rock in Sedona, AZ

Cathedral Rock in Sedona, AZ

5: Redwoods National and State Parks, CA

When I first visited Redwoods last summer, it wasn’t all I thought it would be. But when I spent a week exploring the area last month, it quickly became one of my favorite places ever, and easily my favorite place in California (my home state). Redwoods is, of course, known for its towering Redwood trees—the tallest in the world! But it’s also home to coastlines, stunning wildlife, and every bright green plant you can imagine!

Redwoods National Park, CA

Redwoods National Park, CA

4: Devils Tower National Monument, WY

Devils Tower was a place I wasn’t expecting to visit last year, but it’s a place that I always recommend to people when they want to visit Wyoming. This park is known for the remnants of a dormant volcano that now stands silent over the Eastern Wyoming plains. This park attracts climbers, explorers, and lovers of science fiction (after being used as the set for Close Encounters of the Third Kind), and is home to wildlife such as prairie dogs, which you can meet up close!

Devils Tower National Monument, WY

Devils Tower National Monument, WY

3: Thailand

Oh yeah, I went to Southeast Asia for the winter! Thailand totally changed the way I see adventure travel. It was the first country to truly introduce me to another culture in depth, and it really opened my eyes to how international travel could and should be. I spent time in remote villages, trekked for free roaming elephants with their Mahouts, and gave back to communities in need. This trip brought me through caves, drove me through rivers, and taught me a new language. While Thailand is easily one of the most popular destinations in Southeast Asia, it’s one where I truly beg you to get off the beaten path and explore some more remote areas instead of sticking to Bangkok and the coastal parts.

Mueang Khong, Thailand

Mueang Khong, Thailand

2: Glacier National Park, MT

This was so hard not to put as #1, so let’s just say this is my top choice for domestic, US travel. Glacier National Park was truly the most incredible place I went to in the Lower 48, and as I continue to travel here, it remains in that position. Glacier is known for its glaciers, alpine landscape, myriad of wildlife, and scenic drive. It made such an impact, I actually wrote a whole in-depth guide to it, which you can find by clicking the button below.

Grinnell Glacier in Glacier National Park, MT

Grinnell Glacier in Glacier National Park, MT

1: Laos

Laos is truly my favorite place in the world. It was a place I wasn’t expecting to love as much as I do, and a country that blew my mind every turn I took. Here, I spent most of my time volunteering in the weaving village of Sop Chem, but because of that, it was truly the most unique travel experience I’ve ever had. We swam in waterfalls, fed Moon Bears, climbed a mountain, and made connections with the locals, who are some of the kindest people I’ve ever met. Laos is a small country with a rich history, and it’s definitely underrated when it comes to Southeast Asia travel.

Learn more about Laos by clicking the button below!

Nam Ou River, Laos

Nam Ou River, Laos

The past year of travel has truly changed my life. I’ve explored so much, and I can’t wait to share these places with those I love, and continue to add more places to the list (although it’ll be hard to take some of these off as I grow my been-there list!).

Want help planning a trip to any of these places? Consider me your travel expert! Click the button below to get started!

Honorable mentions:

Bryce Canyon National Park, UT

Bryce Canyon National Park

Bryce Canyon National Park

Alabama Hills, CA

Alabama Hills

Alabama Hills

Mono Lake, CA

Mono Lake

Mono Lake

Great Smoky Mountains National Park, TN/NC

Great Smoky Mountains National Park

Great Smoky Mountains National Park

Craters of the Moon National Monument, ID

Craters of the Moon

Craters of the Moon

Mount Hood National Forest, OR

Mount Hood

Mount Hood

10 Things to Know Before Visiting Laos

When I hear people planning trips to Southeast Asia, they usually list Thailand, Bali, Cambodia, and Vietnam on their list. But the truth is, there is no country like Laos. When I first visited Southeast Asia, I included two countries in my itinerary: Thailand and Laos, and I expected to fall in love with Thailand, with Laos being just another cool place to say I’ve been, but the opposite ended up being true. I fell head over heels for this unique landlocked country in a way I never expected to. So, if this post doesn’t convince you to go to Laos, I don’t know what will. And if it does, here are the 10 things you should know before going.

Disclaimer: this post may contain affiliate links

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So… where is Laos?

Laos is a landlocked Southeast Asian country that shares borders with five other countries: Thailand, Vietnam, China, Myanmar, and Cambodia. It is home to some of the most amazing, lush, green landscapes I’ve ever seen, and is full of flowing rivers, including the famous Mekong. Its capital is Vientiane, ad the official language is Lao (which I’ll get back to later!).

When most people visit Laos, they stick to Luang Prabang City and some surrounding villages in Luang Prabang Province such as the backpacking village of Nong Kiaw.

Restaurant in the remote village of Ban Sop Chem

Restaurant in the remote village of Ban Sop Chem

What currency do they use there?

Laos is a very interesting country when it comes to spending money. Due to the fact that they are a less developed country, many of the vendors and shop owners do not even have card readers. Instead, there are ATMs located throughout the city that are generally safe to use. If you’re nervous about pulling out more cash in this practically cash-only country, pull out enough when you land at the airport from the airport’s ATMs. I personally used them and they are safe.

Laos’ currency is known as the Lao Kip. It’s fairly easy to convert, but of course won’t be exact. About 10,000 Lao Kip is equal to $1.50 USD, so you can pull out $150 USD here and be a millionaire! Things are very cheap in Laos, and you’ll be able to stay at a good hostel for only about 150,000 Kip per night (only about $15 USD). Food is also very cheap, as are souvenirs.

Hand woven fabrics hang outside of homes in Ban Sop Chem, Laos

Hand woven fabrics hang outside of homes in Ban Sop Chem, Laos

Night markets

Speaking of money, something many Southeast Asian countries are famous for are their night markets. Night markets are an incredibly fun way to get to meet some locals, buy local goods, and practice your bartering skills. Yes, bartering skills! The locals known what tourists look like, and they’ll likely try to charge more for their goods than they’re worth, so if you find yourself at the Luang Prabang night market, feel free to do some bartering.

The view from my hostel in Luang Prabang City

The view from my hostel in Luang Prabang City

What religion do they practice in Laos?

Laos is a largely Buddhist country. Nearly everyone there practices Buddhism, and one of my guides when I visited even used to be a Buddhist monk. There are plenty of temples to visit, and you can even look into participating in the morning alms giving ceremony, a daily ritual where patrons will wake up at 5 am to offer rice to the monks who are commuting to temple for the day.

See this ceremony in action in my Youtube video on Laos!

Buddhist temple in Luang Prabang City

Buddhist temple in Luang Prabang City

What should I wear?

Due to this being a Buddhist and communist country, it’s important to recognize that their customs are on the more conservative side. While it’s okay to wear shorts in Luang Prabang City, and even in some backpacking villages like Nong Kiaw, it’s also important to respect the culture. By the end of my trip, I felt uncomfortable wearing anything that showed my knees while walking around town. Generally, to be culturally appropriate, it’s important to cover your knees and shoulders in a way that doesn’t show off your figure (yes, for girls and guys). This is particularly important when it comes to visiting temples and smaller villages like Ban Sop Chem.

Key staples for packing include:

Elephant Pants (which you can purchase at the night market—bring less than you think you need)

T Shirts (bring one more than you think you need)

One sweatshirt (Laos has mountains)

One bathing suit (for the waterfalls!)

Plenty of comfy socks

Sandals you can slip on and off when you enter temples and your hostel

Hiking/walking shoes

Dressed up for the traditional Buddhist Baci Ceremony in Ban Sop Chem

Dressed up for the traditional Buddhist Baci Ceremony in Ban Sop Chem

Where are the waterfalls?

When you google Laos, you’ll likely see endless photos of Tat Kuang Si National Park, a national park just outside of Luang Prabang City known for its bright blue waterfalls. These are known as Kuang Si Falls, and they’re absolutely gorgeous, and definitely worth stopping at, despite how touristy they are. Here, it’s appropriate to wear an American bathing suit, and there are changing rooms available at the falls.

If you’re looking for a way to give back a little during your time in Laos, Tat Kuang Si National Park is also home to Free the Bears Sanctuary, a rescue focusing on Moon and Sun Bear conservation.

Laos is also home to some of the most beautiful natural landscapes in the world, so make sure you branch out and explore a little more than just this most common national park.

Kuang Si Falls in Tat Kuang Si National Park

Kuang Si Falls in Tat Kuang Si National Park

The country has a tough history

Laos is the most heavily bombed country from the Vietnam war. Today, there still exists UXO, or unexploded ordinance in the remote villages of the country. Children are taught from a young age how to recognize UXO and avoid them, and there are bomb squads that are actively clearing the country of UXO. It is an integral part of the country’s history, and one that can’t go overlooked when visiting. For more information, please visit the UXO museum during your time in Laos.

Government

While completely safe to travel in (and safe for solo female travelers), it’s important to note that Laos is a communist country, which means their economy and land ownership work differently than in other countries you may have visited in the past. One of the places you’ll see this most is in the presence of China in Laos. China is currently building a railroad through the country, as well as damns in many of the major rivers. While there are pros to these projects, such as jobs for Lao citizens and better transportation of goods via the railroad, there are also cons including flooding of the rivers and drought in some areas.

The children of Ban Sop Chem

The children of Ban Sop Chem

Key Phrases

It’s always good to enter a country with a few key phrases under your belt so that you can better communicate with the locals. Here are the phrases I found useful during my time in Laos:

Sabaidee: Hello

Khob jai: Thank you

Khob jai lai lai: Thank you very much

Tao dai: how much?

Kor thod: sorry

Sabaidee ton sao: good morning

Sabaidee ton laeng: good evening

Bor pen yang: it’s all good!

Bo me nam nom: no milk (for my vegans!)

Ngam lai: very beautiful

The view from Pha Deang Peak in Nong Kiaw

The view from Pha Deang Peak in Nong Kiaw

All about food

I actually love Lao food. It’s flavorful, and different from that in a lot of other Southeast Asian countries. It kind of reminded me of a mix between Thai, Indian, and Western food. It uses a lot of the same flavors as Thailand, but also uses a lot of potatoes, and much more bread than Thailand! Expect curries, sticky rice, and something my guide called “crack sauce,” which is soaked chilis and garlic in soy sauce. It’s used for dipping sticky rice and it’s amazing! There is also fried rice, noodles, and stir fries galore. If you go to the street market, you’ll find plenty of street food, as well as fruit shakes, which can easily be made vegan.

If you go to any remote villages, expect to take part in some traditions. During my time in the remote village of Sop Chem, we learned to make rice wine and sticky rice, and got to take part in a welcoming tradition, where you take shots of Lao Lao (rice whiskey) for good luck.

If you’re vegan, or plant based, like me, you might be concerned about being able to maintain your plant based diet while traveling, so I just wanted to reassure you that in Asia, it’s fairly easy to be plant based. Often, there is no milk used in food, and in curry, it’s usually coconut milk anyway. In the above section, I did cover how to say “no milk,” but you can rest assured that usually, unless it is a meat dish, it will be vegan as long as there is no fish sauce.

After the Buddhist Baci Ceremony

After the Buddhist Baci Ceremony

Laos is truly one of the most underrated Southeast Asian countries. While it borders a lot of the countries many people love to travel to, it’s often overlooked, but it’s home to some of the most beautiful nature, kindest people, and best food on the continent. It should be on everybody’s list, and considering the fact that they want tourists, there’s no better reason to go and support this beautiful place.

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The Other Side of the Planet

Finding Home in Ban Sop Chem

“I was never not coming here. This was never not going to happen.” -Eat Pray Love

From the moment I landed in Laos, surrounded by mountains and green, something in my soul felt like it had slipped perfectly into place. Back before I started traveling, I spent a lot of time struggling with the meaning of my life and what I was doing. I didn’t think that what I was currently doing had the power to make the impact I wanted it to. So, I went searching, and I found myself in Laos, a country I’d never heard of before signing up to go.

Both times on the boats, when we were arriving in and leaving Sop Chem, I cried. I expected to upon leaving—I hate goodbyes, I always try to frame them as a “see you later,” and this time around I really hoped it was true because the moment we arrived, no, before we arrived, when we were simply traveling down the Nam Ou River with mountains as tall as Montana’s glaciers casting shadows on the water and our boat and the trees, I suddenly felt a whisper of “oh, this is why.”

View from the restaurant in Sop Chem

View from the restaurant in Sop Chem

Why I came here, why I didn’t feel like what I was working on before had much purpose, why I was put on this planet. I was supposed to do something bigger. I arrived as a volunteer, and I left knowing I needed to come back.

I spent the week with the locals, getting to know them by name and spending more time with them than I would ever spend with my neighbors back in California. We were able to connect without language. I played games with children who just wanted to learn from us, I made emotional connections with the village’s women, I tried their food, and stayed in their homes. I pet their dogs, and ate lunch with views of their river, a river that would always symbolize the act of arriving here.

Working with the children was one of the most fulfilling moments for me. I arrived in Southeast Asia expecting to put most of my energy into permaculture—it was sustainability that brought me out there in the first place. But the truth is, the connections with the people is what made me want to stay. In Laos, I worked with the young boys to teach them English. I picked them because I have a little brother, and I knew most people would want to work with the girls anyway, and the boys deserved that attention and love too. I knew they’d be a handful, but sometimes mischief is fun, and it turns out, my favorite students were the troublemakers.

Some of my students, playing in the river

Some of my students, playing in the river

Of course, I loved all of them, and I’m incredibly proud of the progress they made just in the time I was with them, but the ones whose names I’ll forever remember are Khan and Leek, to the older boys (about 8 or 9) who came to the intermediate class to learn English on their last 3 days of winter break. They were mischievous, but that meant they were smart. They didn’t have to be there—they showed up because they wanted to. They came and went as they pleased, but still enjoyed a good coloring book and sticker at the end of the day. Khan can give a high five that will knock your soul straight out of your body. Leek is soft at heart, I can tell, but he likes showing off—being the center of attention.

At the end of the school day, the boys disappeared, like children of the jungle and the mountains, dispersing into the hiking trails and roads and trees, while the girls stick around to play games. Phun is the girl who always picked me as her partner for games, and later in the week, for dancing. She’s about 7 years old and she was never my student. She just learned my name when her friend Noona asked. I wanted to ask her why she always picked me, but she doesn’t know enough English and I don’t know enough Lao and “why” is a hard question to answer in any language, so I’ll just go with the idea that she either liked my energy or my pants. I hope that one day I can ask her, but the truth is, even when I do eventually find my way back there, the odds are, she probably won’t remember me the way Noona would, who remembers every volunteer from the past three years. They’re best friends, those girls, and I wish I could have given them so much more.

After the Baci Ceremony

After the Baci Ceremony

I sat, on one of my last days in Sop Chem, hanging in my hammock in the restaurant where we always ate our meals, looking out over the Nam Ou River for one of the last times until next time (whenever that may be). My legs were bug bitten and bruised and my Teva tan was back and my soul felt so at peace there that the thought of leaving and never coming back broke my heart. I’d never wanted to stay somewhere longer than I wanted to stay there. I didn’t feel like I was on the other side of the planet from home. It felt like my soul had always been trying to find this place.

My last morning in Sop Chem also happened to be my birthday. The last night of my year had been spent dancing to an hour long remix of songs from my childhood under the stars, barefoot, in the center of a village in the center of mountains with Baci chords tied around my wrists for good luck. I felt so full, that day, even knowing that the morning meant leaving, and as we did, back on the boats that brought us to our new home in Ban Sop Chem in the first place, it didn’t feel like the people on the shore of the river were saying goodbye, not forever, at least, not for me.

Three Must-Visit Spots in Laos

I recently returned from Southeast Asia, where I volunteered for a month in Thailand and Laos with GIVE Volunteers. It’s no question that, of the two countries, Laos made the bigger impact on me as a person, a traveler, and a global citizen. Laos is an incredibly special country, and the truth is, two years ago, like many of you, I had no idea it even existed.

Laos is a small, landlocked country just north of Thailand. It borders four other countries as well: China, Vietnam, Myanmar, and Cambodia. It’s known for its mountains, Buddhist culture, and waterfalls.

During our time in Laos, we visited three major spots (IE: one city, one backpacking village, and one remote village). This is the best journey through this beautiful country that will show you the best of Laos, from Luang Prabang to Sop Chem.

View from the Nam Ou River

View from the Nam Ou River

Luang Prabang City

Not to be confused with Luang Prabang Province, Luang Prabang City is the first part of Laos I got to experience. It’s a clean city with plenty of hostels (we stayed at Mao Pha Sohk Guesthouse), vans available as public transport, markets, and culture.

Luang Prabang is gorgeous, even for a city, and is home to a fantastic array of restaurants (Coconut Restaurant is a crowd favorite), as well as a huge night market that happens daily, starting at 5pm (Laos time). Our first day started with participating in the Alms ceremony, where we gave rice to monks as they made their way to temple. This is definitely something to experience, even though it starts at 5 am daily.

Another must-see in Luang Prabang is Tat Kuang Si National Park. This National Park is home to Kuang Si Falls, the famous waterfalls that are known as being one of the most beautiful places in the world, and the Free the Bears Moon Bear Sanctuary (who accept donations HERE). Both spots are incredibly important to witness for that perfect balance of cultural understanding and natural beauty.

The last must-see in Luang Prabang is the UXO museum. The UXO museum stands for the fact that Laos is the most bombed country and the most affected by the Vietnam War. Still, there is unexploded ordinance scattered throughout the country. True responsible tourism is understanding the culture, and there is no such thing as understanding Lao culture without talking about UXO.

View from Mao Pha Sohk Guesthouse at sunrise

View from Mao Pha Sohk Guesthouse at sunrise

Ban Sop Chem

Sop Chem is easily one of my favorite places on Earth. Sop Chem is a remote weaving village located directly on the Nam Ou River, and the best way to access it is by boat.

Sop Chem thrives on tourism. Most tourists just come for a day trip from Nong Kiaw, but there is a hostel in Sop Chem if you’d like to stay the night and experience this remote village for the night.

Here, we volunteered at the local school and permaculture plot, but also participated in plenty of cultural activities that tourists would also be able to experience, such as shopping for hand-woven fabrics, hiking to the Power China dam site, and exploring Tam Lom, a cave where the villagers of Sop Chem hid during the war (but please don’t go without a guide).

The people of Sop Chem are some of the most welcoming I’ve ever met, so stay a while if you can, pet the dogs, and play cards with the local kids—this is an experience like no other.

Ban Sop Chem

Ban Sop Chem

Nong Kiaw

Nong Kiaw was the backpacker village we stayed in on our way back to Luang Prabang from Sop Chem where we stayed in the Sunrise Hostel, and spent my birthday adventuring. There is so much nature to experience in Laos, and a lot of those beautiful places are right in Nong Kiaw.

Two of the most notable are the Pha Thok Cave and Pha Deang Peak hike. The Pha Thok Cave is another combination of nature and culture, as it gives you another perspective into the history of the country during wartime. Pha Deang Peak is a strenuous, approximately 6 mile hike that gains 3,000 feet in elevation from bottom to top. This is a genuine mountain summit hike, but it comes bearing some of the best views in the country.

View from Pha Deang Peak, Nong Kiaw

View from Pha Deang Peak, Nong Kiaw

Laos is truly one of the most beautiful places I’ve ever been. It’s known for village communities, mountains, and rivers, and the culture is like no other. I hear a lot of talk about visiting Southeast Asia, and Laos should be on everyone’s list, if not for the beauty, then for the culture.


Laos (other than Sop Chem, which is a good break from being on the grid) is incredibly backpacker and digital nomad friendly. Learn how to work and make money online with Wired Creatives HERE!

The Truth About Elephant Tourism

Elephant tourism is a hot topic in travel writing right now: what’s considered ethical, what’s not, and the distancing from elephant rides as a tourist attraction. But the problem is, a lot of what you’ll read about elephant tourism comes from the west, and it comes from people who haven’t experienced the truth behind the signs claiming that a sanctuary is ethical.

During my time in Thailand, I got the chance to speak with Eddie, a Mahout who’s worked with elephants his entire life in the remote jungles of Southeast Asia, and amongst all the funny questions the group had about what elephants eat or how often they poop, we got down to the nitty gritty about elephant tourism.

The truth is, even the remote jungles that Eddie works in with his elephant, are close to villages. The jungle sits adjacent to the village of Ba Kao Lam, where there is a school, and small farms that are attached to people’s homes. There isn’t really enough space for elephants left, because, let’s face it, elephants are enormous animals.

Me and Mai Boon Si in Ba Kao Lam, Thailand

Me and Mai Boon Si in Ba Kao Lam, Thailand

When people think about going to see elephants in Southeast Asia, their main requirement is that the sanctuary uses no chains. So many sanctuaries claim this, and keep their elephants out of chains to attract tourists, but the truth is, we don’t know what happens behind closed doors. We don’t know that these elephants are free roaming, and we have no way of knowing whether the elephants are chained up or kept in cages at night.

So, one of the first things I learned about how the Mahouts care for their elephants surprised me: they use chains for the safety of their elephants. Because their elephants are completely free roaming, they have the ability to walk an easy ten miles to the nearest village while the Mahouts are sleeping. Elephants are huge creatures, and this means they never, ever stop eating. When they reach a village, they have the tendency to decimate farms, eat a family’s supply of food, and destroy property. This puts them in more danger than they’re in in the wild—farmers can get angry and kill or injure the elephant before the Mahouts can track them to bring them back to safety in the jungles.

Feeding bananas to elephants in Ba Kao Lam, Thailand

Feeding bananas to elephants in Ba Kao Lam, Thailand

The chains these elephants wear are not tied to anything—they’re able to go wherever they want. But the chains do slow them down. This means that they likely won’t make it to the villages in a single night, which keeps them safe from people trying to protect their farms. The chains also help the Mahouts to track their elephants because they’re able to recognize the pattern the chain makes on the ground, which helps them to find the elephants quickly for health checks and feeding (elephants love bananas).

We had the chance to go trekking with the Mahouts for their elephants, and while it can normally take up to 3 hours to track them, we found them in 8 minutes, just across the stream. They seemed happy to see their Mahouts, as they each have a special bond with their animal, and were even more happy to see us because these 2 elephants—Mai Boon Yen and Mai Boon Si, two sisters and best friends—know that tour groups mean bananas.

We then trekked with the elephants down to the nearby river to give them a bath and feed them their favorite food, where the Mahouts did take off the chains, and I felt, even though I wasn’t sure about the chains at first, that this was truly the best way to make sure that they’re safe, and still kept wild.

Walking the elephants to the river for banana time

Walking the elephants to the river for banana time

So, the moral of the story is, you don’t know that what people tell you is ethical or the truth, and it’s truly best to learn from an expert before forming your own opinion. Give is not the only group that is able to trek with the Mahouts, so definitely look into finding a group to take you on a trek if you’re planning a trip to Thailand. It’s the only way to know for sure that the elephants are taken care of properly.

What It's Really Like to Volunteer Overseas

The Truth About Voluntourism

Lately, I’ve seen a lot of talk about voluntourism online, and the majority of it is, unfortunately, negative. There is a huge stigma being created by the western online community telling people not to volunteer overseas for a number of reasons, but the truth is, volunteering overseas is the most effective way to travel as a conscious consumer and practice true responsible tourism.

I recently had the chance to volunteer with GIVE Volunteers in the Southeast Asian countries of Thailand and Laos. In both countries, I worked on sustainability, permaculture, and English education projects with locals, and experienced what life in these countries is like. Through my work, I’ve gained global citizenship through bringing together people who never would’ve met in an effort to create a better and more connected world, and I’ve become so close to the cultures of these countries that the remote Lao village of Sop Chem started to feel like home.

This is the truth about voluntourism, from someone who has actually done it, been to the countries, and seen the strife and kindness of their people firsthand.

Mueang Khong, Thailand

Mueang Khong, Thailand

What is GIVE?

GIVE stands for Growth International Volunteer Excursions. I first learned about GIVE when a recruiter named John came into my Economics class during my senior year at my university. He handed out probably 500 flyers just to that one class, but when I showed up to the info session, only about 10 people sat in the room. Him and my now good friend, Jess told us about the program and its goals to “inspire growth, empower global citizens, and ignite sustainable change worldwide.” I had my heart already set on Thailand, but Jess convinced me to also do the Laos program, even though I hadn’t even heard of the country prior to receiving that flyer. Jess ended up being my guide in Laos, and the trip inspired me to continue creating change with my life. I realized that what I do matters, and can have a larger impact than what I was doing back at home, and because of that, I can genuinely say that GIVE changed my life, and I’ll get to how in the following sections.

(If you sign up for a GIVE trip, make sure you put me, Halle Homel, down as a reference!)

I decided that this trip was a good fit for me because, as a full time traveler, I’m always looking for ways to incorporate as much responsible tourism as I can, and volunteering overseas truly is real responsible tourism. Responsible tourism is more than just Leave No Trace, being a conscious consumer, and even working in your destination to create change. In my eyes, responsible tourism combines all of these things with cultural immersion, so that you as a traveler, have the education to truly understand the place you’re visiting through the eyes of its citizens, which will allow you to really be able to help in the way that they need. GIVE is incredibly good at communicating with the locals in the villages we worked in (Mueang Khong, Thailand and Sop Chem, Laos), and finding out exactly what they needed help with, which included everything from help composting the permaculture plots in Thailand to teaching the children of Sop Chem how to say “tomato” or ask for help in English.

Sop Chem, Laos

Sop Chem, Laos

How sustainable is it, really?

We all know that flying isn’t the most sustainable form of travel, but giving back to the country you’re visiting is a great way to offset that carbon footprint. What I loved about this trip was that everything we did was based around sustainability, and every excursion wasn’t simply an excursion with a pretty view—each one had an educational purpose that would open our eyes to the culture a little bit more (for example, going caving where Sop Chem villagers hid during the Vietnam War, or trekking for elephants with their mahouts to learn about responsible elephant tourism). But on top of our excursions being beneficial to us and the country, we were working specifically on a lot of sustainability projects.

Permaculture stands for Permanent Culture and Permanent Agriculture, meaning the entire point behind permaculture is to create long lasting agriculture that can help a society move forward in its development through creating independence. On top of that though, our permaculture projects involved caring for plants (hello oxygen), and building a house out of earth bricks (made from mud, sand, and rice). These projects are so good for the planet, and will help move these communities further down the path to development as time goes on.

We also worked on projects with FORRU, a forest restoration group in Thailand, to make sure that new trees were able to grow, and Free the Bears, an animal sanctuary in Tat Kuang Si National Park in Laos. Free the Bears rehabilitates moon bears rescued from the illegal wildlife trade, often from malnutrition, and keeps them safe from hunters. Without both of these groups, our environment might be suffering quite a bit because moon bears are a keystone species, and, well, we know we need more trees.

One of our permaculture plots in Mueang Khong, Thailand

One of our permaculture plots in Mueang Khong, Thailand

Traveling as a Local

I see a lot nowadays about traveling as a local, and when you volunteer overseas, you’ll have the chance to truly do so. Because your purpose for being in the country is to help out communities that need you, you’ll be living in those communities while you’re there, which will let you get acquainted with the locals on a more intimate level. In Sop Chem specifically, we spent an entire week off the grid, living in the local hostel and becoming fast friends with the locals. We learned how to weave and make rice wine from the people in the village, did a homestay for one night, taught the local children and women English so that they would have more job opportunities as adults, and hung out with the local puppy, a good girl named Bagel. We learned plenty of words in Lao too, and by the end, found it hard to break our habit of saying “Sabaidee!” instead of “hello.”

Local children in Sop Chem playing by the Nam Ou River

Local children in Sop Chem playing by the Nam Ou River

How much adventure is there in a volunteer trip?

I know many people travel for site seeing, not to work, or sleep in a local’s home, but the thing about GIVE is that you get a little bit of both. You’ll get that true cultural immersion, but you’ll also get plenty of opportunities for site seeing, as well as excursions you wouldn’t get as just a backpacker since you’ll already be in more remote places.

In Thailand, we got to experience the Buddhist temples, caving, waking up for sunrise, learning to make Pad Thai, weaving with the Karen Tribe, and basket making with the Lasu Tribe, all before building our own bamboo rafts to take down the river from the village of Ba Ko Lam to Pong Nyen, with an elephant trek in between.

In Laos, there was definitely more time to chill in the hammocks or walk down to the river, but we also went caving twice, hiking multiple times (once to the Power China dam being built in Sop Chem and once to Pha Deng Peak in Nong Kiaw), to Kuang Si Falls in Tat Kuang Si National Park, and learned local skills from the people of Sop Chem. We also participated in the morning Alms Ceremony and learned to meditate from a Buddhist monk (and friend of one of our guides).

Me and Mai Boon Si, one of our two elephant friends in Ba Kao Lam, Thailand. Stay tuned for a whole piece on elephant tourism coming soon.

Me and Mai Boon Si, one of our two elephant friends in Ba Kao Lam, Thailand. Stay tuned for a whole piece on elephant tourism coming soon.

What about the children?

Okay, if you’ve read literally anything about voluntourism prior to this, you’re probably yelling at me for volunteering with children at all overseas. Many people believe that it is cruel to give them our attention and then leave (I do plan on returning to Sop Chem though). But the truth is, these kids rely on us. We didn’t get to work much on the education projects in Thailand due to them being on winter break, so I’m going to talk mostly about Laos here. In Sop Chem, there is no English education program in the school, and yet a Lao person who speaks English is more likely to get a higher paying job as an adult. Sop Chem only has a primary school, and their teacher does not get paid. Their English classes are only taught by volunteers, and the classes are not mandatory, so the children choose to be there, to better their education. Without volunteers, they wouldn’t even have that choice. When the students show up enough, they earn points that GIVE keeps track of so that some children can earn scholarships for secondary education (high school), as they have to go to a neighboring village and live in the dorms to do so. The families of Sop Chem make far less than the national average (only about $1000 USD per year. You can support the women of Sop Chem HERE), so the opportunities of these children are minimal.

Volunteers help to make those dreams a reality, and for some children, like a girl named Noona who liked to hang out and play cards with me in the restaurant where we ate our meals, that education would allow them to become the person they dream of being. For Noona, she remembers every single volunteer by name from the past three years. She is about 7 years old, and speaks some of the best English in the village. If GIVE hadn’t given her that opportunity, she might never realize her potential, and might not have the chance to continue onto secondary school.

The mountains of Sop Chem, Laos. Good vibes to another beautiful day in paradise.

The mountains of Sop Chem, Laos. Good vibes to another beautiful day in paradise.

How can voluntourism change your life?

I said earlier in this piece that volunteering overseas changed my life, so before I finish up, I just want to touch on that a little. It’s so easy to only travel comfortably, but that’s never quite been my speed. I easily could’ve just booked a tour around Southeast Asia during this time, instead of spending the majority of my winter sweating in the dry-season humidity building earth bricks and carrying bags of corn husks. The thing is, in college, I had this huge need to feel like I was doing something purposeful with my life, and so I wanted to figure out a way to combine travel with sustainability. Once I actually got to Laos, though, after already having been through the entire Thailand trip, there was a larger feeling of purpose that came to me that was only perpetuated by the connections I made with the villagers.

When I sat learning how to weave from my new Lao friend named Phan, I realized how possible it is to simply be human through interacting without language. We knew exactly what each other meant and felt, without knowing more than a few words in each other’s tongue, and that moment kind of defines global citizenship to me. We are all on team human.

But overall, my trip to this country I’d never heard of opened my eyes to everything that is possible in our world. I saw myself providing education opportunities to more children in the future, helping Free the Bears provide better care for wildlife, and helping to expand the permaculture plot more in future years. There is so much impact you can make in your life—make sure some of it is to help others.

Pong Nyen, a remote village in Thailand, and the childhood home of two of our Thai guides

Pong Nyen, a remote village in Thailand, and the childhood home of two of our Thai guides

If you are interested in volunteering with GIVE and have any questions, feel free to email me or comment below. When you sign up, make sure you put me down as a reference!

More posts coming soon about elephant tourism, where we went in Luang Prabang province in Laos, and responsible tourism/global citizenship.