Where To Go As a First Time Visitor: Rockies

The Rocky Mountain States hold some of the highest elevation in the country, and some of the most beautiful landscapes. From sprawling mountains, to deep thermal pools, this section of the country is on so many people’s bucket lists. From Colorado to Montana, we’re going to explore exactly where you should head if you’ve never been to the area before, so that you can experience the best the landscape has to offer.

Glacier National Park, MT

Colorado: Rocky Mountain National Park

Colorado is easily one of my favorite states. There is so much to do, and so many beautiful places to see, but for a first time visitor looking to get the most out of a visit, I’d say don’t miss Rocky Mountain National Park. The Rockies are located in Northern Colorado, and have some of the highest elevation roads in the country. These mountains are home to bears, moose, and more, and are full of winding trails, rivers, pine trees, and everything else you picture when you think of Colorado. Stay in Estes Park and explore the Stanley Hotel (where they filmed The Shining), and the rest of those mountain town vibes when you’re not in the National Park.

Things to do:

·       Go to the Alpine Visitor Center and hike the Alpine Ridge Trail (12,000 feet)

·       Go to Bear Lake

·       Hike Hallett Peak (for advanced hikers only due to the elevation)

·       Do the Scenic Drive

When visiting Rocky Mountain National Park, be aware of the elevation and oxygen levels. Elevation sickness is not uncommon here, so don’t attempt any hikes that are out of your athletic ability.

Wyoming: Yellowstone National Park

There’s no question: you cannot go to Wyoming for the first time and not go to Yellowstone. Yellowstone is not just the National Park—it’s all the surrounding mountain towns, and it’s become a vacation destination. Yellowstone is known for its thermal pools, abundant wildlife, and the famous Yellowstone Falls. There is so much to do just in this park and its surrounding areas, so I’d suggest planning at least a 4 day trip, perhaps even a week if you can take the time.

Things to do:

·       Go see the popular spots: Grand Prismatic Spring and Old Faithful

·       Spot wildlife in the Lamar Valley

·       Walk the boardwalk at the Norris Geyser Basin

·       Go to Artists Point and take photos of Yellowstone Falls

Like at any National Park, please respect the nature when visiting Yellowstone. Stay on the boardwalks, don’t climb over guardrails, and please, DO NOT APPROACH WILDLIFE.

Montana: Glacier National Park

I have a whole post you can read about Glacier, but there truly is no better place to visit if you’re visiting Montana for the first time. Glacier is an incredible landscape full of wildlife, mountains, and of course, glaciers. This national park is also home to the famous Going to the Sun Road, which connects east and west Glacier on one of the most beautiful scenic roads in the country.

Things to do:

·       Hike to Grinnell Glacier (hard)

·       Hike to the Hidden Lake Overlook (easy)

·       Drive the Going to the Sun Road (not open to vehicles over 21 feet long)

Learn more about Glacier at the link below:

The Rocky Mountains are an incredible landscape full of beautiful national parks and tons of wildlife. This is an area I could spend months exploring. Not sure where to start when planning your trip? Head to the shop to schedule a phone call with me and allow me to plan your trip for you!

My Top 10 Places From My First Year of Travel

Last week, I officially hit my one year anniversary of being on the road. Last June, I hit the road in my Kia Soul with the goal of driving each of the Lower 48 states in one summer, and boy did I accomplish that. I’m now on my second run around the country, moving in the opposite direction. This year has brought a series of ups and downs, transformation, and unexpected plot twists, but more than anything, it’s brought me to some of my favorite places. These are my top 10 favorite spots I’ve been in the past year.

Luang Prabang, Laos

10: Valley of Fire State Park, NV

This one had to make the list because it’s where my journey began, but more than that, it’s one of the prettiest desert landscapes I’ve ever been to. Known for its red rocks, Valley of Fire is famous for its color, its heat, and its history. This state park was formed underwater, and over hundreds of years, became the desert landscape we know today. It’s home to tons of desert wildlife, and beautiful (but sandy) hikes. The whole park can generally be seen in one day, but give it two if you really want the full experience!

Valley of Fire State Park, NV

Want access to my 48 state road trip route? Click the button below to get started!

9: Joshua Tree National Park, CA

Joshua Tree will always hold a special place in my heart because it’s the National Park I’ve been to the most times. Five times to be exact! I truly feel like a local when I visit, and I love showing people around. While it wasn’t part of my 48 state itinerary, it was a place I visited 3 times in 2019, and another in early 2020. Joshua Tree is known for its strange agave “trees” that look like something from Doctor Seuss! It’s a hotspot for Park enthusiasts, climbers, and hikers, or just anyone who wants to experience a scenic drive!

Joshua Tree National Park, CA

8: Acadia National Park, ME

Acadia blew my mind when I first arrived at the park. It was the first place I ever saw both pine trees and the ocean in one place. This was also the furthest from home I drove solo on my 48 state road trip, so it’s got a certain nostalgia to it. Acadia sits on the Atlantic coast, and is home to pine trees, rocky cliffs, a gorgeous beach, and Cadillac Mountain, which is super fun to drive up for sunset! While it isn’t a huge park, it’s definitely one of the most unique ones I’ve ever visited, and was the first place that convinced me to stay longer than I’d originally planned.

Acadia National Park, ME

7: Bend, OR

I never thought I’d put any cities on this list, but Bend stole my heart. Tucked away in the Deschutes National Forest of Central Oregon, Bend is one of the most outdoorsy towns out there. Nearly everyone here does an outdoor sport. And from watching the surfers on the river, to hiking the nearby mountains, to climbing at Smith Rock, there’s an endless amount of outdoor activities to experience here.

Smith Rock State Park in Bend, OR

6: Sedona, AZ

Sedona is another town that totally won me over. It’s basically the desert version of Bend, but spiritual. It’s full of vortexes—large areas of strong spiritual energy—so a lot of people come here to meditate, heal, and get away from it all. Sedona is also known for hiking, red rocks, and history. Between exploring the ancient ruins, hiking Devils Bridge, and simply getting red dust all over the car, there’s something for everyone in Sedona.

Cathedral Rock in Sedona, AZ

5: Redwoods National and State Parks, CA

When I first visited Redwoods last summer, it wasn’t all I thought it would be. But when I spent a week exploring the area last month, it quickly became one of my favorite places ever, and easily my favorite place in California (my home state). Redwoods is, of course, known for its towering Redwood trees—the tallest in the world! But it’s also home to coastlines, stunning wildlife, and every bright green plant you can imagine!

Redwoods National Park, CA

4: Devils Tower National Monument, WY

Devils Tower was a place I wasn’t expecting to visit last year, but it’s a place that I always recommend to people when they want to visit Wyoming. This park is known for the remnants of a dormant volcano that now stands silent over the Eastern Wyoming plains. This park attracts climbers, explorers, and lovers of science fiction (after being used as the set for Close Encounters of the Third Kind), and is home to wildlife such as prairie dogs, which you can meet up close!

Devils Tower National Monument, WY

3: Thailand

Oh yeah, I went to Southeast Asia for the winter! Thailand totally changed the way I see adventure travel. It was the first country to truly introduce me to another culture in depth, and it really opened my eyes to how international travel could and should be. I spent time in remote villages, trekked for free roaming elephants with their Mahouts, and gave back to communities in need. This trip brought me through caves, drove me through rivers, and taught me a new language. While Thailand is easily one of the most popular destinations in Southeast Asia, it’s one where I truly beg you to get off the beaten path and explore some more remote areas instead of sticking to Bangkok and the coastal parts.

Mueang Khong, Thailand

2: Glacier National Park, MT

This was so hard not to put as #1, so let’s just say this is my top choice for domestic, US travel. Glacier National Park was truly the most incredible place I went to in the Lower 48, and as I continue to travel here, it remains in that position. Glacier is known for its glaciers, alpine landscape, myriad of wildlife, and scenic drive. It made such an impact, I actually wrote a whole in-depth guide to it, which you can find by clicking the button below.

Grinnell Glacier in Glacier National Park, MT

1: Laos

Laos is truly my favorite place in the world. It was a place I wasn’t expecting to love as much as I do, and a country that blew my mind every turn I took. Here, I spent most of my time volunteering in the weaving village of Sop Chem, but because of that, it was truly the most unique travel experience I’ve ever had. We swam in waterfalls, fed Moon Bears, climbed a mountain, and made connections with the locals, who are some of the kindest people I’ve ever met. Laos is a small country with a rich history, and it’s definitely underrated when it comes to Southeast Asia travel.

Learn more about Laos by clicking the button below!

Nam Ou River, Laos

The past year of travel has truly changed my life. I’ve explored so much, and I can’t wait to share these places with those I love, and continue to add more places to the list (although it’ll be hard to take some of these off as I grow my been-there list!).

Want help planning a trip to any of these places? Consider me your travel expert! Click the button below to get started!

Honorable mentions:

Bryce Canyon National Park, UT

Bryce Canyon National Park

Alabama Hills, CA

Alabama Hills

Mono Lake, CA

Mono Lake

Great Smoky Mountains National Park, TN/NC

Great Smoky Mountains National Park

Craters of the Moon National Monument, ID

Craters of the Moon

Mount Hood National Forest, OR

Mount Hood

A Complete Guide to Glacier National Park

Glacier National Park in Montana is truly one of those treasures that can’t be missed in the Lower 48. From its sprawling landscapes to its abundant wildlife, there’s nothing not to love about Glacier. It’s truly my favorite place in the entire contiguous United States. For people who haven’t visited, it often tops their National Parks bucket list, and for those who have been, it’s often a destination they’re trying desperately to revisit. Glacier National Park is a special place, and one that should be visited with care, to protect its rapidly changing natural landscape.

Because Glacier is such a large National Park, with multiple sections, I’ve found that it’s a bit intimidating to people who either haven’t been or who aren’t incredibly familiar with the National Parks System. This blog is here to answer your questions, and to be your essential guide as you plan your first trip to the park.

(Disclaimer: This post may contain affiliate links)

The view from the Logan’s Pass Visitor Center area

Know Before You Go

First, let’s cover the basics. Glacier National Park is located in northern Montana, on the Canadian border. You can cross into Canada from Glacier easily, to explore the Waterton Lakes area. Glacier is located in the center of multiple small towns, including Babb and Whitefish, and bordered on one side by National Forest. On the east side of the park, you’ll find the Blackfeet Indian Reservation of Montana. Due to the proximity of these towns and the preserve, it is important to enter the park with respect.

To enter Glacier National Park for one week, you will be charged a $35 entrance fee per car, or $25 in the winter, when the Going to the Sun Road is closed. I highly recommend investing in an America the Beautiful Pass or other interagency pass if you plan on visiting more than 3 National Parks in one year.

Dogs are allowed in the park, but are not allowed on most trails. They can visit the park in front country campgrounds, picnic areas, roads, parking areas, and in boats. Dogs must be on a leash no longer than 6 feet, and cannot visit the backcountry, lakeshores, or inside visitor centers. If a road is closed to vehicles due to winter weather, it is considered part of the backcountry.

Along the Hidden Lake Overlook Trail

Wildlife

Glacier is home to some of the most abundant wildlife in the country. This Park is largely wilderness, which makes it the ideal place to spot incredible animals, such as deer, black bears, grizzly bears, mountain goats, big horned sheep, and elk. It is also home to more elusive animals like pikas, bats, lynx, mountain lions, and wolverines. This truly is the ideal place to spot wildlife in their natural habitat, and I was lucky enough to see mountain goats, black bears, grizzlies, deer, and big horned sheep during my visit. It’s important to view wildlife here safely, though, and remember, wildlife is wild!

It is not recommended that you visit the park without someone in your party carrying bear spray, which can be purchased at the visitor centers, and any shops in the park. Bear spray is a one-time use deterrent equivalent to a large canister of pepper spray. It is to be used to defend yourself against a bear (usually a grizzly), in the case of danger. Do not spray a bear who is minding their own business, and do not use bear spray indoors or on a person.

Two deer in my site at Rising Sun Campground

When should I visit?

The only time of year you will be able to experience all of Glacier National Park is in the summer. During the winter, the main roads are closed. Keep in mind that winter in northern Montana can range between late September and late June, and no one knows when the Going to The Sun Road will open for the summer season—it all depends on weather.

The best and most popular month to visit is July, since there is still a considerable amount of snow on the mountains. However, I visited in late August, and there was still plenty of beauty to be seen!

Wildflowers blooming in late August in Glacier National Park, MT

Should I stay in East or West Glacier?

This is one of the most common questions when it comes to planning a trip to Glacier National Park. So, which is better? East or West Glacier?

Glacier National Park is divided into three sections, and two of those sections—East and West Glacier—are connected by the Going to the Sun Road, which I’ll cover later in this post. When it comes to which side to visit, my answer is: visit both, if possible! If not, due to weather or time, I would say East Glacier is home to most of what people picture when they picture visiting Glacier National Park.

St. Mary’s Lake in East Glacier

West Glacier is largely forested, and won’t provide you with the views that East Glacier has. However, it is incredibly peaceful, and is a great place to stay if you’re looking for some quiet. It is also home to the only visitor center with legitimate cell service (Agpar Village), so if you need to call home, it might be worth making a stop here. As far as trails in West Glacier, they aren’t quite as impressive as the ones in East Glacier, but they are still worth checking out. The one that should definitely be on your list is Trail of the Cedars, a family friendly short trail that will allow you to get up close and personal with some of the Park’s largest flora.

East Glacier is home to many of the views people want to see during their trip, which is why I suggest heading here if you’re short on time. This is where you’ll find lakes, tall mountains, waterfalls, and views of the valley. You’ll also find a few more amenities in East Glacier, such as WiFi at the St. Mary’s Visitor Center, and a restaurant and motel at Rising Sun. This is also where you’ll find boat parking, and day parking for vehicles over 21 feet.

One of the many beautiful wooded views in West Glacier

What is Many Glacier?

Many Glacier is the third section of the park, and truly one of the most spectacular. To access Many Glacier, you definitely need a car, as the park shuttle doesn’t go here. During 2020, the road to Many Glacier will be under construction, so be prepared for traffic and limited parking. There is also the option to hop on a boat from East Glacier, but this is not ideal for budget travelers.

You will have to show your entrance receipt or pass again when you enter Many Glacier.

Many Glacier is home to the Park’s main hotel, as well as some of the most famous sites in the park: Iceberg Lake and Grinnell Glacier. It’s important to remember that reaching these sites is not for everyone—you will be at elevation, and they are only accessed by trail.

Many Glacier is definitely one of my favorite sections of the park. It’s wild, largely untouched, and home to one of the last true glaciers in the continental US. This is also where I saw my first grizzly bears.

Grinnell Glacier, one of the most beautiful places in Many Glacier

What is the Going to The Sun Road?

The Going to The Sun Road is one of the key parts of a full experience in Glacier National Park. This 50 mile long road will take you from East Glacier to West Glacier, and is only fully accessible to vehicles less than 21 feet long and park shuttles.

Driving this road is not for everyone. It is incredibly windy in the alpine section, and usually crowded. To beat crowds, I suggest hitting the road as early as 6 am. Here, you’ll find overlooks, pullouts, and three visitor centers with unique views and wildlife viewing opportunities. I suggest stopping at each exhibit, and making a whole day out of this unique drive.

My number one tip for experiencing the Going to The Sun Road is to take the shuttle, specifically if you plan on stopping in Logan Pass, the highest elevation on the road. There will not be parking at Logan Pass, as it is the most popular spot in the park, and the site of the High Line trailhead. If you do take the shuttle, when riding from Logan Pass to East Glacier, make sure you sit at a far-right window at least once—this is the best way to get views into the deep valleys below, but definitely isn’t for anyone afraid of heights!

The view from the Going to The Sun Road, heading East

There are also private tours of the Going to The Sun Road. If you would like a guided tour, check out the Red Bus Tours, which are not affiliated with the National Park Service.

Please keep in mind that the road is closed during the winter season, which can range anytime between September and late June, so it is best to plan a summer visit.

The view from the Going to The Sun Road heading West at 6am in late August: A Valley Filled With Clouds

What can I see in the Park without hiking?

Glacier truly is a hiker’s paradise, but if you’re not a hiker, or aren’t physically able to do so, there is plenty you can still experience. The Going to The Sun Road is going to be your best bet for views comparable to those you might see on one of the Park’s longer hikes, and you can see Jackson Glacier from one of the first stops (coming from East Glacier). This is a great spot to stop and take pictures, but truly, any of the pullouts will do—Glacier’s views can’t be beat!

One of Glacier’s many waterfalls, as seen from a pullout along the Going to The Sun Road

What are some family friendly hikes?

If you are traveling with kids, rest assured that there are plenty of hikes with good views that are ideal for families. While the park is a hiker’s paradise, there are quite a few trails that are short, or have little elevation gain (or both!). The first one I’d suggest checking out is the previously mentioned Trail of the Cedars in West Glacier. This magical spot is perfect for families with really young kids, as it does have a boardwalk, allowing those with strollers to experience these magnificent trees.

Another great family friendly hike in Glacier National Park is St. Mary’s Falls. These glacial waterfalls run bright blue, and the entire hike to see all three falls is less than 3 miles (out and back).

The first waterfall you’ll encounter along the St. Mary’s Falls Trail

The last family friendly hike in Glacier that I’d highly recommend is a bit harder because it does gain some elevation, but the view is rewarding. At Logan Pass, you’ll find the Hidden Lake Overlook trailhead. This is the first section to a much longer hike (Hidden Lake), but this part is fairly easy for kids (I saw plenty on the trail). The trail is mostly made of man-made steps, and the peak will give you a spectacular view that can’t be beat. This is also where I saw my first ever mountain goats!

When traveling with kids, it’s important to give them the chance to learn and have fun. Pick up a Junior Ranger booklet at any visitor center, and help them earn a badge they can proudly wear throughout their trip.

View from the Hidden Lake Overlook Trail

Is visiting Logan Pass worth it?

Logan Pass is the highest point of elevation along the Going to The Sun Road, at over 6,000 feet. It truly is not something that should be skipped, and is key to having a full Glacier experience. Logan Pass is probably what I would consider the main visitor center, as it is exactly halfway between East and West Glacier. It is home to the Hidden Lake trailhead, as well as the High Line trailhead, and is integral to the shuttle system, as it is the only place you can transfer shuttles to get to West Glacier (the East Glacier shuttles are too large to go through the alpine section). Logan Pass is key to how the park runs, so make sure you don’t skip it!

In terms of that shuttle transfer, make sure you ask what time the last shuttles leave, and what time you should be back at Logan Pass to make it to East Glacier. The shuttles do stop running before sundown, and if you miss them, your only option will be to hitchhike back.

One of the many views near Logan Pass

What hikes should be on my list?

If you are a hiker, Glacier is the ideal park for you. Apart from backcountry experiences, which you can read more about on the park website, there are two main hikes that you cannot miss during your trip to Glacier.

Disclaimer: please do not attempt without bear spray.

Located in Many Glacier, you’ll find the Grinnell Glacier trail. This 12.8 mile round trip hike will take you through some of the most beautiful landscapes in the park, under a small waterfall, and to one of the last standing glaciers in the continental US. This is a very difficult hike, and it’s recommended that you start early in the morning to find parking and beat the crowds. If you’re not sure of your ability, there are paid ranger-guided hikes that will take you up this trail and to the glacier. This is a hike to try and do as soon as possible. The glacier is melting fast, and will continue to do so due to global warming.

For eco-friendly (and glacier friendly) gear, products, and apparel, check out Madera Outdoor, Eco Roots, and Wholesome Culture, three companies here to make a difference.

Top of the Grinnell Glacier Trail

The other must-hike trail in Glacier National Park is known as the High Line, which connects to The Loop. The High Line itself is a 16 mile out and back ridge hike that is not for the faint of heart—you will be on cliff edges for part of this hike! Most people connect the High Line to The Loop, a downhill trail that will make your trip an 11 mile one-way trip, rather than 16 miles out and back. The Loop, however, doesn’t have much to see, and will be 3 miles of steep downhill (so if you are prone to knee injuries, you might want to opt for the longer trip). The High Line is a spectacular hike with stunning views that will take you to a view of the other side of Grinnell Glacier. Here, you’ll see pine forests, towering mountains, and wildflowers. This is a very popular hike, and I would suggest heading out as early as possible. Since the trailhead is at Logan Pass, it is recommended that you take the first shuttle to the trail, rather than drive.

For either hike, make sure you have the right gear, including a rain layer.

One of the views you’ll catch on your way to Grinnell Glacier

Where should I stay?

There are tons of options when it comes to where to stay in Glacier National Park. One of the best ways to truly experience the park is to camp. While a few of the campgrounds to require reservations (Many Glacier, St. Mary’s, and Agpar), plenty are also available on a first come first served basis, and there are quite a few backcountry campgrounds available as well. On the west side, Avalanche is a good campground to stay in, due to its proximity to East Glacier. This is a great way to experience the West side of the Park at night, and have a shorter ride to the East side and Logan Pass during the day.

My favorite spot in Glacier is Rising Sun Campground. This campground is located in East Glacier, just 6 miles from the St. Mary’s Visitor Center. It is fantastic for solo travelers, and has its own shuttle stop. A stay at Rising Sun will also put you close to one of the park’s only restaurants, as well as a general store and pay showers. It’s also got one of the most unique sunrise views in the park, so make sure you get up early!

For camping in Glacier, I highly recommend using a 0 degree sleeping bag, no matter what time of year it is—it does get very cold at night. THIS is my favorite 0 degree bag, from Madera Outdoor.

There are also a few hotels and motels in the park, located at Rising Sun (East Glacier), Agpar Village (West Glacier), and Many Glacier. These are great options if you’re not into camping, or if it is simply too cold out to do so.

If you’d like to stay outside the park, there are options for that as well. On the West side of the park, you’ll find the town of Whitefish, Montana, an adorable little mountain town home to plenty of shops, restaurants, hotels, gas stations, and a hostel.

The sunrise in Rising Sun Campground

Glacier National Park is truly one of the treasures of the United States. No matter where you’re from, you should add it to your list, so that you too, can experience its incredible views, wildlife, and rapidly changing landscape. Glacier is unique, and is one of the largest and most popular National Parks in the United States, so let’s hit the road, and head out to the very north of Montana, to see what’s left of the United States’ true wilderness.