Top 5 Things to Do in New River Gorge

Are you looking for the ultimate adventure opportunity in the Appalachian Mountains in one of the most underrated destinations in the country? Welcome to New River Gorge National Park and Preserve, the newest National Park in the United States, and home to one of the oldest rivers in the world (despite its misleading name).

New River Gorge is located in wild and wonderful West Virginia, and is home to some of the most unexpected landscapes on the eastern side of the country. When you picture West Virginia, you might not picture rushing class five rapids, towering sandstone cliffs, and a multitude of waterfalls and wildlife, but you’ll find all of that and more in New River Gorge National Park.

I had the privilege of working as an Assistant Climbing Guide in the park during the summer of 2022, which means I got to spend all of my free time climbing, exploring, and enjoying unexpectedly wild West Virginia. Here are the top 5 things you should make sure you do during your trip to New River Gorge.

Know Before You Go

There are a couple things you should know ahead of your visit to New River Gorge National Park and Preserve. This is all my advice for navigating this park for the first time.

The weather in New River Gorge is unpredictable. Always assume it’s going to rain even if the weather isn’t calling for it. This is considered a rainforest, and showers can come quickly and come down hard. That being said though, summer is absolutely the wet season when it comes to rain. If you’re a rock climber looking for the driest time of the year to visit, we call Fall “send season” for a reason.

Dogs are allowed pretty much everywhere in New River Gorge as long as they’re kept on a leash. Feel free to bring well behaved dogs with you on trails, to the crag, or to picnic areas, and always make sure you have an extra poop bag on you so we can keep our wild spaces wild.

New River Gorge is not your classic National Park where you’ll enter through an entrance station and be within the park the rest of your time. New River Gorge is a park that’s interspersed with neighborhoods, Highway 19, and the adorable town of Fayetteville. The official National Park boundaries are the quarter mile of space surrounding the New River itself. Everything else is still considered “The Gorge” though, and is just as worth checking out while you’re there.

Go Whitewater Rafting

Since New River Gorge National Park is known for the New River, you can’t skip out on going whitewater rafting during your time here. You’ll want to book a trip with one of the local outfitters and the most popular company to raft with is Ace Adventure Resort, although you can’t go wrong with any company that’s going to get you safely on the water.

If you’re traveling with children, you’ll want to keep in mind that there are some age restrictions on the river. If you have young children, you’ll probably want to look into rafting the Upper New River, which only goes up to Class III rapids. Teenagers love the Lower New River, which goes up to Class V. Some companies even offer all day trips that will include time to swim in the river, lunch, and an overall longer adventure.

If you’re visiting in the fall and have a party of people over 16 years old, you might consider the biggest adventure available in the New River Gorge area: rafting the Gauley River. This rafting trip includes some of the most intense Class V rapids in the country (possibly even the world). While this river isn’t within New River Gorge National Park boundaries, it is part of the Gauley River National Recreation Area, also managed by the NPS. The Lower Gauley is slightly less intense if you’re not sure about embarking on the ultimate Upper Gauley adventure.

Rafting on the Lower New just before Fayette Station

Go Hiking

There are lots of hiking trails available in New River Gorge National Park and they all lead to somewhere beautiful. You can pick up a trail guide in the visitor center, but these are some of the most popular trails for finding the best views in the park.

(trail classifications and ratings are my own, based on the available terrain in the area)

Endless Wall Trail

Endless Wall is easily the most famous view in the park. Here, you’ll eventually reach Diamond Point Overlook, where you’ll gain views of some of the rapids and rafters below. This trail is dog friendly, and there are two parking lots. I recommend parking at the first one you’ll pass as you come from Highway 19. You’ll have the opportunity to make the trail a loop by hiking parking lot to parking lot, and if you park at the first lot, the section of this loop that will have to be along the road will be downhill rather than up (unless that’s your thing!).

Endless Wall is about 3 miles round trip, and I would classify this hike as easy.

Long Point Trail

Long Point is the other trail where you’ll gain some million dollar views of the park. Here, you’ll gain views of the famous New River Gorge Bridge and this is one of the best places to catch the sunset in the park. The trail starts off fairly flat and then starts to gain some elevation and rocks on the path toward the viewpoint.

Long point is about three miles round trip, and I would classify it as moderate.

Glade Creek to Kates Falls

Glade Creek is easily my favorite trail in the park, but it doesn’t lead to some incredible viewpoint. Instead, you’ll hike deep into the forest, along the rushing Glade Creek, to the stunning Kates Falls. This trail is fairly flat but long, so be prepared for at least a half day on trail with no cell signal. I recommend parking at the Lower Glade Creek Trailhead as the Upper Trailhead lot is 4x4 access only. Hiking to the falls from the Lower Glade Creek lot is about 9.2 miles one way, and I would classify this trail as difficult. Make sure you keep an eye out for the sign to Kates Falls on the left once you’re about a mile and a half from the bridge, and prepare for flooded trails and creek crossings—trekking sandals would be a great choice for this trail!

Kates Falls

Paddleboard on Summersville Lake

One of the most beautiful places in New River Gorge National Park is Summersville Lake, which is located about a thirty minute drive from Fayetteville. Here, you’ll find hidden waterfalls, climbers deep water soloing, and one of the best sunsets in the park (from the water of course).

Rent a paddleboard or kayak or bring your own to explore this huge and warm lake in the summers, just make sure that you bring a personal floatation device (PFD) for every passenger on your board or boat.

Be aware that some years, in the fall, the lake does get drained, so make sure you check the park website for updates.

The view from Diamond Point on the Endless Wall Trail

Go Rock Climbing

Other than whitewater rafting, climbing is the most popular sport to do in the New. Rock climbers from all over the world travel here, and many end up staying, because of the beautiful Nuttal Sandstone walls, incredible trad routes, and fun sport climbs. There’s even a good assortment of boulders for anyone who’s not stoked on rope climbing.

If you’ve never climbed before, there are outfitters who can take you on your first climbing trip—gear included! I personally worked for Ace Adventure Resort, but other climbing outfitters include Adventures on the Gorge and Appalachian Mountain Guides.

Another great resource for climbing (other than Mountain Project and the local guide book), is the local climbing shop: Waterstone Outdoors. Every employee here is super knowledgeable and wants to help you get on the rock as soon and as safely as possible.

Hal Homel lead climbing in New River Gorge National Park

Explore Fayetteville

There’s a reason Fayetteville is known as the “Coolest Small Town.” Downtown Fayetteville, West Virginia is super cute and has a lot to check out. Other than Waterstone Outdoors, our local climbing shop, there’s a huge assortment of places to visit like the Hobbit Hole, which is the antiques shop, the Great Googly Moogly, which is the local crystal shop, and restaurants like Cathedral Cafe and The Takeout.

Overall, there is so much to see and do in New River Gorge National Park and its surrounding areas, so make the most of it, get out of your comfort zone, and try something NEW.

Your Guide to Denali National park

For National Park enthusiasts, Denali is one to check off the bucket list. I recently spent 4 months in the Alaskan Interior, and visited Denali 4 times. Between understanding the park road, wildlife viewing, and the best times to see The Mountain, this is your guide to everything you need to know to visit Denali National Park.

Why Visit Denali?

Denali is known as Alaska’s Yellowstone. It is a vast, incredible, open landscape that is mostly closed to vehicular traffic, making it one of the most pristine wildernesses you can drive to. Because of its untouched wild, it makes for an incredible space for healing, meditation, and being with oneself if you are on a pilgrimage pack to yourself. If you’re simply looking for an incredible place to experience the beauty of Alaska’s nature, there is no shortage of that, either. Denali is home to endless wildlife, the tallest mountain in the US, and incredible backcountry experiences you can’t get anywhere else.

This post was written in 2021, so rules may have changed if visiting in future seasons. For the most part, these systems are the same year to year.

Horseshoe Lake Loop Trail

When is the best time to go?

There are only two distinct seasons of visitation in Alaska: Summer and Winter. Of course, there are their versions of spring and fall, deemed the Breakup and the Freeze-up, but most people don’t visit during those periods. Denali is open year round, but unless you’re prepared for sub-zero temperatures, and getting around via dogsled, you’ll want to visit in the summer. Summer season in Alaska lasts from around June 1 to September 15. Businesses usually open around May 15, but some roads are still snowy then.

When it comes to visiting Denali, be prepared to become part of the “70% club.” Only 30% of visitors actually see the Mountain, and your best chances are to go in late June or July, and enter the park as early as possible. You’ll want to hop on a bus to Eielson for your best chances of getting a picture like the one below!

Can I drive to Denali?

This is a complicated question because the short answer is, yes, you can drive to the park. Due to protections instated by the National Park Service, though, you can only drive up to Mile 15 of the Park Road. You’ll be able to get to the visitor center, a few established trails, the bus depot, and your furthest point: Savage River. There are very low chances of getting to actually see Mount Denali from this section of the road, so if you don’t have bus reservations, I suggest visiting the local State Park as well, to try to catch a view of it from the North or South Viewpoints.

The Savage Alpine Trail, one of the established trails accessible from the first 15 miles of the Park Road

How does the bus system work?

The bus system is the only way to explore the park past mile 15. You must have a reservation ahead of time, which you can make through Reserve Denali. There are three types of buses you can reserve: Camper Buses, Transit Buses, and Tour Buses. Exceptions to this include buses going to Kantishna Lodge, and standby tickets only available for campers spending 3 nights or more at Teklanika River Campground.

Camper Buses are only for backpackers and campers staying in one of the Park’s many established campgrounds. These buses can take you to a campground, or drop you off in one of the Park’s backpacking regions.

Transit buses can take you through the park, usually as far as the Eielson Visitor Center. In past years, they were able to take you to Wonder Lake, but as of 2021, Wonder lake was only for campers. Transit buses are not required to give you park information, but are a great way to get to see wildlife, and drive through the park.

Tour buses have to give park information as they drive you through the park, but generally stop before Eielson. So if you want to get all the way to the visitor center, I’d suggest booking a Transit bus.

Due to landslides at Polychrome, the park road became inaccessible at the end of the 2021 season until the park finishes construction on this part of the road. The landslides were caused by melting permafrost. Please contact Reserve Denali to check road conditions before booking your bus ticket.

What are the best hiking trails?

Denali is mostly a free-hike park, meaning you can go anywhere you want in approved areas, without an established trail. If you choose to do this, make sure you’re confident in your navigation skills, and carry a topographical map of the area you’re going to be hiking.

Always carry bear spray when hiking in Alaska.

The established trails that do exist in Denali are generally short, and many of them are located before Savage River on the park road. In this area, the Savage River and Savage Alpine trails are popular, and the Roadside Trail is the only official dog friendly trail in the park. For a trail close to the park entrance, check out the Horseshoe Lake Trail.

Some of my favorites though, are in the Eielson area, including Thoroughfare Ridge Trail, pictured above.

Looking for more information or local conditions? Check the National Park Service Website!

Your Guide to Yosemite National Park

Yosemite is one of the Big Three National Parks in the US, with Yellowstone and the Grand Canyon being the other two. It’s a top tourist attraction in California, and it’s the site of documentaries such as Free Solo, The Dawn Wall, and Valley Uprising. It’s a rock climber’s paradise, and it’s home to huge rock monoliths such as El Capitan and Half Dome. It’s a destination that’s on nearly everyone’s bucket list, but if you’ve never been, it’s quite an overwhelming park to plan a trip to. This is your complete guide, to help you plan your Yosemite camping trip, vacation, or something in between.

The Basics

Yosemite is located in Northern California, and is closest to Sacramento. It spans over 1,200 square miles. It’s most easily accessible from the west entrance. The east entrance through Tioga Pass closes for snow between November and May/June. It costs $35 to enter per car, or the use of an America the Beautiful Pass. You will need a car to get from the entrance station into the Valley, but in a normal operation year, there is a shuttle you can take around the park. Overall, pets are not allowed on trails, but please check NPS.gov/yose/planyourvisit/pets for more information on where your dog can accompany you so that you can make the decision of whether you want to bring your dog with you to the park.

What time of year should I visit?

Yosemite is known for its waterfalls (Yosemite falls is the tallest waterfall in the lower 48), so if your goal is the see the falls, spring is going to be your best bet, after the snowmelt. But, that’s not to say that other times of the year aren’t amazing times to visit. Winter is ideal for avoiding crowds, but the park does get super snowy. Winter is also the only time of year you can see the annual Fire Fall at Horsetail Falls (February). Summer will be the warmest but also the most crowded season, however, it’s not too late to see the waterfalls this time of year. In the Fall, the waterfalls are mostly dried up, but this is the only time of year that you can see the trees changing colors, which is a unique sight to see in this park.

Where should I stay?

If your goal is to stay in the park, you’ll have quite a few choices. If you want to camp in the park, I suggest making reservations on Recreation.gov as soon as you start planning your trip. Upper Pines is my favorite reservable campground in the park, but any of them will do. If you can’t get a camping reservation, I love the community at the walk up campground Camp 4. This is the famous climber’s camp, and it’s only $6 per person.

If you’re not super into camping, there are quite a few lodging options within the park. The Ahwahnee, the Yosemite Valley Lodge, and the Wawona Hotel are three hotel options within the park. If you want a glamping experience, Housekeeping Camp or Curry Village are great options.

If you can’t get a spot in the park, there are plenty of hotels and even a hostel in the nearby town of Oakhurst.

What should I not miss?

When people ask me this question about Yosemite, I have a list of my go-to spots for first time travelers. If you’re entering the park from the west side, make sure you make a stop at Glacier Point on your way either in or out of the park. Once you’re in the Valley, make sure you see Lower Yosemite Falls, and if you’re a hiker, hiker to Upper Yosemite Falls. If you visit in the Spring or Summer, make sure you go see Mirror Lake. Seeing the giant Sequoias in the Mariposa Grove is a must-see for anyone who’s new to the Sierra Range. For hikers, Vernal and Nevada Falls are a great combo of hiking destinations to fill a day with. Of course there is so much to see in the park, but if you can’t fit anything else, make sure you catch the sunset over Half Dome one night.

Anything else?

Yosemite is home to tons of wildlife, so to keep them and you safe, make sure that you use bear boxes whenever camping, and try not to leave food in your car. Yosemite bears are smart and can break into vehicles. Bear spray is not necessary in the park, unless it makes you feel better, since there are no grizzlies in Yosemite, but they do want your food, so make sure you don’t sleep with anything in your tent that smells like food.

Also, remember that no national park is an amusement park, so you’re responsible for your safety on the trail, your food, and to keep your area clean of all trash. Wear proper footwear when on the trail, and bring water, even if it’s cold outside.

Top 4 Most Spiritual Places in the US

Since college, I’ve been what some might call “into spirituality,” and in my travels around the US, I’ve come across quite a few places where the energy is high, and it’s exceptionally easy to connect to the earth. These are places full of local legends, spiritual awakenings, and metaphysical connections, and I love coming across places like these when I’m traveling, so I decided to compile a list of my favorites so far, so if you’re looking to get away from it all, one of these places might be for you.

(I’ll likely create more of these later on, as I explore more places around the world. This piece is centered around the Continental US)

Joshua Tree, CA

1: Sedona, AZ

There’s no question Sedona had to be on this list. Sedona is known as a spiritual vortex—a place where the spiritual energy is high, and healing is possible. Sedona has many points that are specifically known as Vortexes, and these areas are known to help aid in meditation and self exploration. You’ll also find spots like metaphysical shops and health food restaurants in town for the full experience. The people of Sedona are as interesting as the land, and you might just run into people selling sage (but please don’t buy from anyone who isn’t of Native ancestry), meditating, doing yoga, or handing out Sedona heart rocks.

Some of the most powerful places in Sedona for experiencing the Vortex magic are:

·       Boynton Canyon

·       Cathedral Rock

·       Airport Mesa

·       Bell Rock

Sedona is a great place to ground yourself, be one with the desert, and spend some time under the stars, and if you’re not into spirituality, it’s worth going just for the views.

Sedona is located on Honanki and Palatki land and you can visit the ruins of their old dwellings during a visit.

Learn more about Sedona, AZ here:

Cathedral Rock Hike, Sedona, AZ

2: Devils Tower, WY

Devils Tower is most recognizable from its movie role in Close Encounters of the Third Kind, and while you (likely) won’t run into any extraterrestrials at this famous National Monument in Wyoming, you might find yourself connecting to the earth a little more than usual here. And the good news is, the devil is no where to be found either. Most importantly, Devils Tower is a Native American holy site, known to the Cheyenne as Bear Lodge. Other tribes such as the Mandan and Arapaho refer to it as Bear’s Hat and Bear’s Tipi respectively, and many Native Americans have used it as a site for ceremonies and rituals for centuries.

As this is a holy site for Native peoples, it is important to respect that during your visit. Do hike around the tower and appreciate its beauty and energy, but don’t touch prayer flags and other holy objects left around the tower.

Learn more about Devils Tower here:

Devils Tower National Monument, WY

3: Mount Shasta, CA

Mount Shasta is an incredible site to see, but it’s also one of the most significant spiritual centers in the world. Many spiritualists know Mount Shasta as Mother Earth’s root chakra, and some connect it with legends of ancient Lumeria, whose people supposedly live beneath the mountain today, waiting for the earth to experience a spiritual awakening. Many people flock to Mount Shasta to experience growth, healing, and finding their life’s purpose, and when we went to fill up water at a local spring, there was talk from locals about it being the water of the gods. The energy is strong here, and in town, you’ll find plenty of metaphysical and crystal shops to explore.

Mount Shasta is also home to many legends from Native tribes, including the Shasta, Wintu, and Modoc tribes just to name a few.

If you aren’t sure about spirituality, don’t fret, Mount Shasta is still worth the visit, and a dip in Lake Siskiyou can’t be beat.

Hiking in Mount Shasta, CA

4: Joshua Tree, CA

My first trip to Joshua Tree was in 2018, and if you’ve been following along for a while, you’ll know that it’s one of my favorite places in California. On our way to that trip, a friend of mine said “there’s a special desert magic in Joshua Tree,” and she was right! From the dark sky zone level stars, to the silhouettes of Joshua Trees in the sunrise light, there truly is magic here. On top of that, this National Park actually does have its own vortices, just like Sedona, and is known for spiritual and healing retreats.

I personally love to visit Joshua Tree for the solitude, the rock scrambling, and that old desert magic, but it’s not uncommon to find yoga and meditation retreats here.

Joshua Tree is located on Serrano, Mojave, Cahuilla, and Chemehuevi land.

Learn more about Joshua Tree here:

Secret view in Joshua Tree National Park, CA

Honorable Mentions:

·       Moab, UT

·       Great Sand Dunes National Park, CO

·       Mount Hood, OR

Spirituality can mean something different to everyone, but when it comes to finding places with strong energy that allow for the best connection to the earth, you can’t go wrong with these. So whether you’re just looking to get away from it all, or maybe plan a retreat for people looking to heal, these spots should be on your list. (And if you’re just a traveler looking for adventure, you can’t go wrong with a visit here either!)

Where To Go As a First Time Visitor: Rockies

The Rocky Mountain States hold some of the highest elevation in the country, and some of the most beautiful landscapes. From sprawling mountains, to deep thermal pools, this section of the country is on so many people’s bucket lists. From Colorado to Montana, we’re going to explore exactly where you should head if you’ve never been to the area before, so that you can experience the best the landscape has to offer.

Glacier National Park, MT

Colorado: Rocky Mountain National Park

Colorado is easily one of my favorite states. There is so much to do, and so many beautiful places to see, but for a first time visitor looking to get the most out of a visit, I’d say don’t miss Rocky Mountain National Park. The Rockies are located in Northern Colorado, and have some of the highest elevation roads in the country. These mountains are home to bears, moose, and more, and are full of winding trails, rivers, pine trees, and everything else you picture when you think of Colorado. Stay in Estes Park and explore the Stanley Hotel (where they filmed The Shining), and the rest of those mountain town vibes when you’re not in the National Park.

Things to do:

·       Go to the Alpine Visitor Center and hike the Alpine Ridge Trail (12,000 feet)

·       Go to Bear Lake

·       Hike Hallett Peak (for advanced hikers only due to the elevation)

·       Do the Scenic Drive

When visiting Rocky Mountain National Park, be aware of the elevation and oxygen levels. Elevation sickness is not uncommon here, so don’t attempt any hikes that are out of your athletic ability.

Wyoming: Yellowstone National Park

There’s no question: you cannot go to Wyoming for the first time and not go to Yellowstone. Yellowstone is not just the National Park—it’s all the surrounding mountain towns, and it’s become a vacation destination. Yellowstone is known for its thermal pools, abundant wildlife, and the famous Yellowstone Falls. There is so much to do just in this park and its surrounding areas, so I’d suggest planning at least a 4 day trip, perhaps even a week if you can take the time.

Things to do:

·       Go see the popular spots: Grand Prismatic Spring and Old Faithful

·       Spot wildlife in the Lamar Valley

·       Walk the boardwalk at the Norris Geyser Basin

·       Go to Artists Point and take photos of Yellowstone Falls

Like at any National Park, please respect the nature when visiting Yellowstone. Stay on the boardwalks, don’t climb over guardrails, and please, DO NOT APPROACH WILDLIFE.

Montana: Glacier National Park

I have a whole post you can read about Glacier, but there truly is no better place to visit if you’re visiting Montana for the first time. Glacier is an incredible landscape full of wildlife, mountains, and of course, glaciers. This national park is also home to the famous Going to the Sun Road, which connects east and west Glacier on one of the most beautiful scenic roads in the country.

Things to do:

·       Hike to Grinnell Glacier (hard)

·       Hike to the Hidden Lake Overlook (easy)

·       Drive the Going to the Sun Road (not open to vehicles over 21 feet long)

Learn more about Glacier at the link below:

The Rocky Mountains are an incredible landscape full of beautiful national parks and tons of wildlife. This is an area I could spend months exploring. Not sure where to start when planning your trip? Head to the shop to schedule a phone call with me and allow me to plan your trip for you!

Where To Go As a First Time Visitor: West

PART TWO

Last week I started a new series to help people venturing out west for the first time decide where exactly they should visit in each state or region. This week, we’re heading a little further from the coast, and visiting three of the most underrated western states. So, pack your car, and get ready to drive, these spots are about to change your whole view of the west.

Sawtooth Mountains, ID

Idaho: Sawtooth Mountains

I have heard from other travelers that Idaho is only okay, but in my opinion, it is a place that needs to be on everyone’s bucket list, and here’s why: The Sawtooths. The Sawtooth Mountains are some of the most unique peaks in the Rockies, and they’re home to countless lakes, and some of the most expansive landscapes I’ve seen in this part of the country. There are tons of boondocking spots nearby, and the town of Stanley is adorable. There are even opportunities for you to go rafting or rent kayaks when in town. Even the park has beautiful views, and the hiking and backpacking in the mountains in unmatched.

Things to do:

Backpack to Sawtooth Lake

Kayak on Pettit Lake

Go find a hot spring

Idaho is the best hidden gem out west, so seriously, don’t knock it ‘til you hit the Sawtooths for the first time.

Nevada: Valley of Fire State Park

Nevada to me is the gateway to the Southwest from California, where I grew up. It is the first place to find red rocks, and one of the most underrated deserts in the country. I’ve picked Valley of Fire State Park as my first destination for people visiting Nevada because it’s beautiful, it’s a great way to see some of the state’s most beautiful landscapes, it’s fairly close to places like Vegas, and it has its own campground. It’s also very close to Lake Mead, which you can hit if you’re on your way to Arizona from here.

Things to do:

Drive the scenic road

Find some Petroglyphs (I like AtlAtl Rock for this)

Go on a hike (but bring lots of water)

Valley of Fire was actually once underwater, and is home to so many desert animals (including the biggest lizards I’ve ever seen). It’s definitely the best place to go if you’re trying to truly experience Nevada’s desert on a trip out west.

Arizona: Sedona

I easily could’ve picked the Grand Canyon for Arizona, but since everyone who visits Arizona goes here anyway, I thought I’d mix it up a little bit. Sedona is a town known for its spiritual energy, red rocks, and vanlife friendly facilities. It’s a popular vacation spot, and many people flock here to hike trails like Devils Bridge. But it’s really the best way to truly experience what the Arizona landscape can hold, and embrace the desert in its fullness. Sedona is a place full of love, beautiful sunsets, and endless hikes, and I think it’s a great idea for anyone wanting to spend a longer trip in Arizona (since the Grand Canyon can be seen in about 3 days or less).

Things to do:

Hike Devils Bridge

Go see the Hononki and Palatki Ruins

Meditate on Cathedral Rock (after the best hike in the area)

Sedona is a place that I personally could spend weeks in. There are so many hikes, so many famous rock formations, and so much to see. It’s also largely dog and van friendly. For first time Arizona goers, there’s no place better.

Want help planning your trip? Give me a call! Schedule a phone call with me to day at the link below!

Where You Should Go As a First Time Visitor: West Coast

PART ONE

This month, Jared, Lassen, and I are staying put to build our new tiny home on wheels, and while I’ll be writing a big post at the end of this giant adventure talking about the whole process, I decided to start a new series while we wait, talking about some of the states I know well, and leading up to a bigger project I’ve been working on in the sidelines. The goal with this series is to talk about the ONE place you should visit if you’ve never been to a state or region. A lot of you are planning road trips, or simply planning domestic travel in general, so if you’re looking for the best place to see what a state has to offer, you’re in the right place. For the first installment of this series, we’re gonna talk about my absolute favorite part of the country: the West Coast, which includes California, Oregon, and Washington.

Olympic National Park, WA

Southern California: Joshua Tree

I decided to split California into two sections because the north and the south are so drastically different from each other. Southern California is known for three things: beaches, cities, and desert. While I could have easily picked a beach for this, I truly think the Southern California desert is one of the most unique places in the country, so, let’s go to one of my favorite National Parks: Joshua Tree.

Joshua Tree is located about halfway between San Diego and Los Angeles, in adjacent to the towns of Joshua Tree and Yucca Valley. It’s also less than an hour from the Salton Sea and Slab City. This unique National Park is home to the largest population of unique Joshua “trees” in the country. The trees are actually part of the agave family, and the oldest is over 300 years old!

What should I not miss?

·       Hike Ryan Mountain

·       Find the Hall in the Hall of Horrors

·       Walk through the Cholla Cactus Gardens

This unique desert is one of my favorite destinations in Southern California, and because of its proximity to other SoCal hotspots, you’ll be able to make a whole road trip out of it!

Northern California: Yosemite

Seriously, if you thought I’d pick anywhere else in NorCal for a first time visitor… you haven’t been to Yosemite! Yosemite is one of the three most famous National Parks in the country (the others being Grand Canyon and Yellowstone), and it’s a hiking, rock climbing, and sight seeing destination for travelers coming from all over the world.

Yosemite is known for its giant rock formations, or monoliths, including El Capitan (which you might recognize from documentaries like Free Solo and The Dawn Wall), and Half Dome. It’s also known for having the tallest waterfall in the Lower 48, which you can hike to the top of.

What should I not miss?

·       Drive up to Glacier Point

·       Hike the Mist Trail to Vernal Falls

·       See Mirror Lake (in the spring and summer only)

·       See Yosemite Falls

·       Watch the sunset from the meadows over Half Dome

Yosemite was the National Park that made me fall in love with National Parks, and I hope it does the same for you, first time visitor. Have fun, and keep an eye out for black bears!

Oregon: Mount Hood

I easily could’ve picked Crater Lake for this spot, but nowhere in Oregon captures the beauty of the Pacific Northwest quite like Mount Hood. Mount Hood is a National Forest (run by the USFS, not the NPS like Joshua Tree and Yosemite), and it’s home to lakes, rivers, waterfalls, and of course, the famous mountain itself.

The Pacific Northwest is the best place to experience wild nature, and Mount Hood definitely has plenty of that. From opportunities to climb the mountain, to places to relax by the water, to more civilized excursions, like visiting the famous Timberline Lodge for some awesome views, this National Forest has a little bit of everything.

What should I not miss?

·       Trillium Lake

·       Tamanawas Falls

·       Timberline Lodge

Mount Hood is truly a Pacific Northwest destination that will give you the best of Oregon and keep you wanting to come back again and again.

Washington: Olympic

Olympic is truly the place that embodies everything Pacific Northwest. Here, you’ve got the coast, the forests, the mountains, the animals… everything you think of when you think of the PNW, Olympic has it somewhere within the Park boundaries.

Olympic is definitely a difficult place to get to, though, especially if you’re flying into Seattle, rather than driving from Oregon. You will have to either cross the Puget Sound by ferry or drive around it, and then you can decide which direction you’d like to loop around the Olympic Peninsula. Olympic is a huge National Park, but most of the park is wilderness and isn’t accessible by car. This makes it one of the best parks for backpacking in the entire country.

What should I not miss?

·       Rialto Beach

·       Hoh Rainforest

·       Hurricane Ridge for sunset

·       Obstruction Point (if you’re not scared of heights)

·       Crescent Lake

Olympic is easily one of the most unique National Parks in the country, and one of the places you’re sure to experience the best of the Pacific Northwest in its rawest form.

If you’re a first time west coast traveler, you have so many amazing landscapes to look forward to. So, why not start with one of these and go from there? If you’re looking to travel soon, but have no idea where to start, check out my new consulting services outside of Patreon for new travelers looking to plan a one time trip.

Top 5 Underrated Destinations of 2020

Despite 2020’s strange circumstances when it came to travel, the magic of vanlife is that I still got to see quite a bit of the country. We passed through more than 15 states on our way from California to Kentucky, between mine and my boyfriend, Jared’s family. Even though we dealt with COVID-19 closures, restrictions, and stress, there were still quite a lot of places that truly stood out to me. I have a whole list of places I’d love to return to one day, but I’ve complied my top 5 underrated destinations for you to add to your list for future travel.

Ranch horses in the Alabama Hills

The State of Idaho

Idaho is seriously one of the most underrated places in this country. From unexpected mountain ranges to flowing waterfalls to abundant hot springs, Idaho has natural beauty around every corner. Idaho is located in the west, in between Oregon and Washington on the coast and Montana and Wyoming inland. It’s known for its potatoes but it is so much more than that!

City of Rocks, ID

Places worth seeing:

·       Sunbeam Hot Springs

·       Stanley

·       The Sawtooth Mountains

·       City of Rocks National Reserve

·       Craters of the Moon National Monument

Sawtooth Mountains, ID

Badlands National Park, SD

This is an interesting one because I actually visited the Badlands in 2019 too, but didn’t like them nearly as much as I did this time. I recently wrote a whole post on the Badlands so I don’t feel like I need to go into too much detail, but the Badlands are spectacular. They are located in western South Dakota, and are home to animals such as coyotes, pronghorns, bison, prairie dogs, big horned sheep, and more.

Places worth seeing:

·       Yellow Mounds

·       Roberts Prairie Dog Town

·       Toadstool Rock

Alabama Hills, CA

The Alabama Hills were actually the first place we chose to live during quarantine in the vans. Located just outside of Lone Pine, CA in the Eastern Sierras, the Alabama Hills are located on BLM Land, which means free camping, lots of hiking and climbing, and stunning views. The Alabama Hills are known as the “Whitney Portal—” the gateway to Mount Whitney, the Lower 48’s tallest mountain. Because of that, you’ll get both desert rock formations and mountain views when you visit this iconic spot.

Places worth seeing:

·       Mobius Arch

·       Whitney Portal (drive or hike to the Whitney trailhead, depending on the time of year. If you’re up for it, and the trail isn’t snowed over, it’s 11 miles one way to the summit!)

·       Death Valley (This famous National Park is only an hour away and worth the day trip)

Hiking the road up to Whitney Portal

Crested Butte, CO

We spent about a month in Colorado, and while I loved so much of the state, Crested Butte will always stand out to me as my favorite. Famous for being a ski town in the winter, Crested Butte is surrounded by mountains such as Gothic Peak and Crested Butte itself. This area is home to some incredible wildlife such as elk and bears, and mountains that resemble those of Glacier National Park. This is the first place I heard an elk bugle, so in the fall, make sure you keep an ear out!

Places worth seeing:

·       Gothic Peak Trail (even if you don’t make it to the top, the views are pretty incredible)

·       The town itself (the town of Crested Butte is adorable and reminded me of places like Telluride)

·       Crested Butte (this towering formation is hard to miss, and you can hike or bike to the top if that’s your thing)

Mount Hood National Forest, OR

I’d wanted to visit Mount Hood for a really long time, but I didn’t realize how incredible it would really be. This is a place to climb mountains, swim in lakes, dip your toes in an ice river, and camp with a view! Mount Hood is easily my favorite National Forest in the country, only rivaled by the Sawtooth and Wind River Wildernesses. Mount Hood is also full of waterfalls, stunning pine trees, and dog friendly trails.

Trillium Lake

Places worth seeing:

·       Trillium Lake

·       White River

·       Cooper Spur (if you feel like climbing a mountain)

·       Timberline Lodge

·       Tamanawas Falls

Tamanawas Falls

While 2020 wasn’t the adventure we thought it would be, that doesn’t mean there wasn’t plenty to be seen. How many of these places have you visited? How many are on your bucket list?

Colorado’s 4 National Parks, Ranked

For the past 3 weeks or so, my boyfriend, dog, and I have been traveling around Colorado. Colorful Colorado has so much to offer in terms of nature, and while we’d both been before, there were definitely a couple firsts this time around. Colorado is home to 4 beautiful National Parks: Rocky Mountain, Great Sand Dunes, Black Canyon of the Gunnison, and Mesa Verde, along with tons of Forest land, state parks, and other NPS designated sites worth visiting. Each one is completely unique from the last, and they each have their own highlights. Now that I’ve been to all 4 Colorado Parks, it’s time to rank them, so that you can best plan your own trip to one (or four) of Colorado’s iconic National Parks.

Great Sand Dunes National Park

#4: Mesa Verde National Park

While we loved all four Colorado Parks, someone has to be number four. The thing about Mesa Verde is, it’s about the history. You truly need to take the time to read each plaque as a way to understand what it is you’re looking at so you can appreciate the fantastic building skills of the ancient Puebloans. I love learning about history and culture, and MesaVerde is almost like a beautiful outdoor museum. The only reason it’s at the bottom of this list here, is because we visited during 2020, and the tours to go inside Cliff Palace were not running. We didn’t feel like we were able to get the full experience at Mesa Verde, so we’re looking forward to when we can go back and experience it in full (hopefully in cooler weather too.

Mesa Verde National Park

#3: Black Canyon of the Gunnison

Black Canyon of the Gunnison is truly a spectacular park. It is one of the steepest and narrowest canyons in the world, and its dark color is what gives the park its name. Here, you can explore by driving the 6 miles of road to the many (dog friendly) overlooks, including Painted Wall and Cedar Point, and drive down into the canyon via the East Portal Road, so you can experience the Gunnison River for yourself. If you’re more adventurous, score a permit to hike into the canyon on one of the three wilderness routes: Gunnison, Tomichi, or Warner. And remember, just because this park ranked #3 doesn’t mean I didn’t like it, I just liked the next two even more!

Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park

#2: Great Sand Dunes

I absolutely love Great Sand Dunes. It’s like a spiritual escape to me. Walking barefoot on the sand at sunrise—there’s nothing better! Great Sand Dunes is home to the tallest sand dunes in North America. The entire dunes area is considered wilderness, and the park is home to animals like horned toads, bears, and tiger beetles. The sand can reach up to 150 degrees Fahrenheit in the summer during the day, but in the evenings and mornings, it’s pleasant, and even meditative to walk on. We particularly love this park because of how dog friendly it is. Much of the dunes area is an area where dogs are allowed, and there are a few trails where they are welcome too!

Great Sand Dunes National Park

#1: Rocky Mountain

There’s no question Rockies had to be #1. This enormous park is located in northern Colorado, and is home to some of the most beautiful sights in the state. From towering mountains to stunning lakes and rivers, no trip to Colorado is complete without seeing the Rocky Mountains. While I personally didn’t spend a lot of time here (it was too risky to visit this time around due to the fires), I’d still say it’s near the top of my list of parks I need to revisit. This green park is known for the presence of bears, moose, and other large alpine animals you’ll only find at this elevation.

Rocky Mountain National Park

Colorado is wild in itself. It’s quickly become one of my favorite states in the country, and the National Parks here are truly something that can’t be compared to! Which one is highest on your list?

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Backpacking in Wyoming's Last Wilderness

When you go on your first backpacking trip, nothing can prepare you for the pain. In your hips, in your legs, the mental discomfort of forcing yourself to reach a destination your body doesn’t think you can reach. You will be carrying a good fraction of your body weight and fueling yourself with dehydrated food.

For my first backpacking trip, my boyfriend, Jared, convinced me to venture with him into one of the Lower 48’s last true wildernesses: the Bridger Wilderness. We planned on 15 miles a day, something only experienced backpackers can do. I’m a hiker. I’ve been hiking for about 4 years now, but I haven’t carried a 30+ pound pack on my back over the long distances I usually hike in a day. Starting out, I suddenly felt connected to Cheryl Strayed, realizing that I couldn’t possibly make it 15 miles when it took me twice as long to cover a mile than it would with just my normal day pack on.

By the time we made it to Eklund Lake, there was talk about stopping, less than halfway to our original goal of Titcomb Basin. We were here to experience the Wind River Range, some of the last untouched wilderness in the country. You can’t drive to the Winds. There are no roads that lead here. The closest many people make it is Photographer’s Point, about 4.5 miles in, where the day hikers usually stop.

The view from Photographer’s Point

But I didn’t want to stop at Eklund Lake. I wanted to feel like I accomplished something, and in my brain, that meant at least making it to Seneca Lake, which is often used as one of two base camps for the Titcomb Basin (the other being Island Lake).

Finally at Seneca Lake

With hundreds of people on the trail, we didn’t see any wildlife except the scattered ground squirrels and chipmunks, and baby birds screaming for food in the trees. I had hoped to see a moose or a bear (from a distance), something that would make this place feel more wild than the parks I usually hike in, but the truth is, the journey itself was what made it wild. At no point did we know how far we’d walked, or how much further we’d have to walk. By the time we made it to Seneca, the avocado I’d packed and meant to eat for lunch suddenly became the best thing I’d ever tasted, but I was still craving potato chips or something other than the sugary protein bars I’d packed due to the last minute decision to go on this trip in the first place.

Entering the wild

By the time we reached mile 17 over two days, my knee injury decided to scream at me. The last thing I wanted was to walk anymore. But we had to keep going so that we didn’t have to spend another night in the tent. So we kept going, and when we returned to the van, I collapsed on the bed and was so thankful for my tiny home on the road. I was so thankful that I could return to the trailhead and be home. But my body still hurts, even as I write this little recap. My hips are still bruised from carrying my pack, my legs are still sore, and yet, I’m inspired to go again. Not now, but eventually.

-HWS