Elephant tourism is a hot topic in travel writing right now: what’s considered ethical, what’s not, and the distancing from elephant rides as a tourist attraction. But the problem is, a lot of what you’ll read about elephant tourism comes from the west, and it comes from people who haven’t experienced the truth behind the signs claiming that a sanctuary is ethical.
During my time in Thailand, I got the chance to speak with Eddie, a Mahout who’s worked with elephants his entire life in the remote jungles of Southeast Asia, and amongst all the funny questions the group had about what elephants eat or how often they poop, we got down to the nitty gritty about elephant tourism.
The truth is, even the remote jungles that Eddie works in with his elephant, are close to villages. The jungle sits adjacent to the village of Ba Kao Lam, where there is a school, and small farms that are attached to people’s homes. There isn’t really enough space for elephants left, because, let’s face it, elephants are enormous animals.
Me and Mai Boon Si in Ba Kao Lam, Thailand
When people think about going to see elephants in Southeast Asia, their main requirement is that the sanctuary uses no chains. So many sanctuaries claim this, and keep their elephants out of chains to attract tourists, but the truth is, we don’t know what happens behind closed doors. We don’t know that these elephants are free roaming, and we have no way of knowing whether the elephants are chained up or kept in cages at night.
So, one of the first things I learned about how the Mahouts care for their elephants surprised me: they use chains for the safety of their elephants. Because their elephants are completely free roaming, they have the ability to walk an easy ten miles to the nearest village while the Mahouts are sleeping. Elephants are huge creatures, and this means they never, ever stop eating. When they reach a village, they have the tendency to decimate farms, eat a family’s supply of food, and destroy property. This puts them in more danger than they’re in in the wild—farmers can get angry and kill or injure the elephant before the Mahouts can track them to bring them back to safety in the jungles.
Feeding bananas to elephants in Ba Kao Lam, Thailand
The chains these elephants wear are not tied to anything—they’re able to go wherever they want. But the chains do slow them down. This means that they likely won’t make it to the villages in a single night, which keeps them safe from people trying to protect their farms. The chains also help the Mahouts to track their elephants because they’re able to recognize the pattern the chain makes on the ground, which helps them to find the elephants quickly for health checks and feeding (elephants love bananas).
We had the chance to go trekking with the Mahouts for their elephants, and while it can normally take up to 3 hours to track them, we found them in 8 minutes, just across the stream. They seemed happy to see their Mahouts, as they each have a special bond with their animal, and were even more happy to see us because these 2 elephants—Mai Boon Yen and Mai Boon Si, two sisters and best friends—know that tour groups mean bananas.
We then trekked with the elephants down to the nearby river to give them a bath and feed them their favorite food, where the Mahouts did take off the chains, and I felt, even though I wasn’t sure about the chains at first, that this was truly the best way to make sure that they’re safe, and still kept wild.
Walking the elephants to the river for banana time
So, the moral of the story is, you don’t know that what people tell you is ethical or the truth, and it’s truly best to learn from an expert before forming your own opinion. Give is not the only group that is able to trek with the Mahouts, so definitely look into finding a group to take you on a trek if you’re planning a trip to Thailand. It’s the only way to know for sure that the elephants are taken care of properly.