What It's Really Like to Volunteer Overseas

The Truth About Voluntourism

Lately, I’ve seen a lot of talk about voluntourism online, and the majority of it is, unfortunately, negative. There is a huge stigma being created by the western online community telling people not to volunteer overseas for a number of reasons, but the truth is, volunteering overseas is the most effective way to travel as a conscious consumer and practice true responsible tourism.

I recently had the chance to volunteer with GIVE Volunteers in the Southeast Asian countries of Thailand and Laos. In both countries, I worked on sustainability, permaculture, and English education projects with locals, and experienced what life in these countries is like. Through my work, I’ve gained global citizenship through bringing together people who never would’ve met in an effort to create a better and more connected world, and I’ve become so close to the cultures of these countries that the remote Lao village of Sop Chem started to feel like home.

This is the truth about voluntourism, from someone who has actually done it, been to the countries, and seen the strife and kindness of their people firsthand.

Mueang Khong, Thailand

What is GIVE?

GIVE stands for Growth International Volunteer Excursions. I first learned about GIVE when a recruiter named John came into my Economics class during my senior year at my university. He handed out probably 500 flyers just to that one class, but when I showed up to the info session, only about 10 people sat in the room. Him and my now good friend, Jess told us about the program and its goals to “inspire growth, empower global citizens, and ignite sustainable change worldwide.” I had my heart already set on Thailand, but Jess convinced me to also do the Laos program, even though I hadn’t even heard of the country prior to receiving that flyer. Jess ended up being my guide in Laos, and the trip inspired me to continue creating change with my life. I realized that what I do matters, and can have a larger impact than what I was doing back at home, and because of that, I can genuinely say that GIVE changed my life, and I’ll get to how in the following sections.

(If you sign up for a GIVE trip, make sure you put me, Halle Homel, down as a reference!)

I decided that this trip was a good fit for me because, as a full time traveler, I’m always looking for ways to incorporate as much responsible tourism as I can, and volunteering overseas truly is real responsible tourism. Responsible tourism is more than just Leave No Trace, being a conscious consumer, and even working in your destination to create change. In my eyes, responsible tourism combines all of these things with cultural immersion, so that you as a traveler, have the education to truly understand the place you’re visiting through the eyes of its citizens, which will allow you to really be able to help in the way that they need. GIVE is incredibly good at communicating with the locals in the villages we worked in (Mueang Khong, Thailand and Sop Chem, Laos), and finding out exactly what they needed help with, which included everything from help composting the permaculture plots in Thailand to teaching the children of Sop Chem how to say “tomato” or ask for help in English.

Sop Chem, Laos

How sustainable is it, really?

We all know that flying isn’t the most sustainable form of travel, but giving back to the country you’re visiting is a great way to offset that carbon footprint. What I loved about this trip was that everything we did was based around sustainability, and every excursion wasn’t simply an excursion with a pretty view—each one had an educational purpose that would open our eyes to the culture a little bit more (for example, going caving where Sop Chem villagers hid during the Vietnam War, or trekking for elephants with their mahouts to learn about responsible elephant tourism). But on top of our excursions being beneficial to us and the country, we were working specifically on a lot of sustainability projects.

Permaculture stands for Permanent Culture and Permanent Agriculture, meaning the entire point behind permaculture is to create long lasting agriculture that can help a society move forward in its development through creating independence. On top of that though, our permaculture projects involved caring for plants (hello oxygen), and building a house out of earth bricks (made from mud, sand, and rice). These projects are so good for the planet, and will help move these communities further down the path to development as time goes on.

We also worked on projects with FORRU, a forest restoration group in Thailand, to make sure that new trees were able to grow, and Free the Bears, an animal sanctuary in Tat Kuang Si National Park in Laos. Free the Bears rehabilitates moon bears rescued from the illegal wildlife trade, often from malnutrition, and keeps them safe from hunters. Without both of these groups, our environment might be suffering quite a bit because moon bears are a keystone species, and, well, we know we need more trees.

One of our permaculture plots in Mueang Khong, Thailand

Traveling as a Local

I see a lot nowadays about traveling as a local, and when you volunteer overseas, you’ll have the chance to truly do so. Because your purpose for being in the country is to help out communities that need you, you’ll be living in those communities while you’re there, which will let you get acquainted with the locals on a more intimate level. In Sop Chem specifically, we spent an entire week off the grid, living in the local hostel and becoming fast friends with the locals. We learned how to weave and make rice wine from the people in the village, did a homestay for one night, taught the local children and women English so that they would have more job opportunities as adults, and hung out with the local puppy, a good girl named Bagel. We learned plenty of words in Lao too, and by the end, found it hard to break our habit of saying “Sabaidee!” instead of “hello.”

Local children in Sop Chem playing by the Nam Ou River

How much adventure is there in a volunteer trip?

I know many people travel for site seeing, not to work, or sleep in a local’s home, but the thing about GIVE is that you get a little bit of both. You’ll get that true cultural immersion, but you’ll also get plenty of opportunities for site seeing, as well as excursions you wouldn’t get as just a backpacker since you’ll already be in more remote places.

In Thailand, we got to experience the Buddhist temples, caving, waking up for sunrise, learning to make Pad Thai, weaving with the Karen Tribe, and basket making with the Lasu Tribe, all before building our own bamboo rafts to take down the river from the village of Ba Ko Lam to Pong Nyen, with an elephant trek in between.

In Laos, there was definitely more time to chill in the hammocks or walk down to the river, but we also went caving twice, hiking multiple times (once to the Power China dam being built in Sop Chem and once to Pha Deng Peak in Nong Kiaw), to Kuang Si Falls in Tat Kuang Si National Park, and learned local skills from the people of Sop Chem. We also participated in the morning Alms Ceremony and learned to meditate from a Buddhist monk (and friend of one of our guides).

Me and Mai Boon Si, one of our two elephant friends in Ba Kao Lam, Thailand. Stay tuned for a whole piece on elephant tourism coming soon.

What about the children?

Okay, if you’ve read literally anything about voluntourism prior to this, you’re probably yelling at me for volunteering with children at all overseas. Many people believe that it is cruel to give them our attention and then leave (I do plan on returning to Sop Chem though). But the truth is, these kids rely on us. We didn’t get to work much on the education projects in Thailand due to them being on winter break, so I’m going to talk mostly about Laos here. In Sop Chem, there is no English education program in the school, and yet a Lao person who speaks English is more likely to get a higher paying job as an adult. Sop Chem only has a primary school, and their teacher does not get paid. Their English classes are only taught by volunteers, and the classes are not mandatory, so the children choose to be there, to better their education. Without volunteers, they wouldn’t even have that choice. When the students show up enough, they earn points that GIVE keeps track of so that some children can earn scholarships for secondary education (high school), as they have to go to a neighboring village and live in the dorms to do so. The families of Sop Chem make far less than the national average (only about $1000 USD per year. You can support the women of Sop Chem HERE), so the opportunities of these children are minimal.

Volunteers help to make those dreams a reality, and for some children, like a girl named Noona who liked to hang out and play cards with me in the restaurant where we ate our meals, that education would allow them to become the person they dream of being. For Noona, she remembers every single volunteer by name from the past three years. She is about 7 years old, and speaks some of the best English in the village. If GIVE hadn’t given her that opportunity, she might never realize her potential, and might not have the chance to continue onto secondary school.

The mountains of Sop Chem, Laos. Good vibes to another beautiful day in paradise.

How can voluntourism change your life?

I said earlier in this piece that volunteering overseas changed my life, so before I finish up, I just want to touch on that a little. It’s so easy to only travel comfortably, but that’s never quite been my speed. I easily could’ve just booked a tour around Southeast Asia during this time, instead of spending the majority of my winter sweating in the dry-season humidity building earth bricks and carrying bags of corn husks. The thing is, in college, I had this huge need to feel like I was doing something purposeful with my life, and so I wanted to figure out a way to combine travel with sustainability. Once I actually got to Laos, though, after already having been through the entire Thailand trip, there was a larger feeling of purpose that came to me that was only perpetuated by the connections I made with the villagers.

When I sat learning how to weave from my new Lao friend named Phan, I realized how possible it is to simply be human through interacting without language. We knew exactly what each other meant and felt, without knowing more than a few words in each other’s tongue, and that moment kind of defines global citizenship to me. We are all on team human.

But overall, my trip to this country I’d never heard of opened my eyes to everything that is possible in our world. I saw myself providing education opportunities to more children in the future, helping Free the Bears provide better care for wildlife, and helping to expand the permaculture plot more in future years. There is so much impact you can make in your life—make sure some of it is to help others.

Pong Nyen, a remote village in Thailand, and the childhood home of two of our Thai guides

If you are interested in volunteering with GIVE and have any questions, feel free to email me or comment below. When you sign up, make sure you put me down as a reference!

More posts coming soon about elephant tourism, where we went in Luang Prabang province in Laos, and responsible tourism/global citizenship.

All the National Parks on the East Coast, Ranked

Okay, well not all of them. I haven’t been to the Florida National Parks, and I promised when I started this blog that I’d never write about a place on here that I haven’t personally been to. Instead, this is everything north of Florida. There aren’t a ton of National Parks on the East Coast of the United States, but there are definitely a lot of great qualities about the ones that do call these states home.

I’ve been to all of the National Parks along the East Coast that aren’t located in Florida, so I’m so excited to share my love for them with all of you. They’re all so unique. On the East Coast, we’ve got swamps. We’ve got mountains. We’ve got waterfalls. The East Coast is incredibly green, and is home to so much wildlife, from armadillos in the south to moose in the north.

This is every National Park on the East Coast (except Florida), ranked.

I do want to clarify that this list only contains NPS sites recognized as having Park status. There are so many more NPS sites on the East Coast that are also worth visiting.

Congaree National Park, SC

6: Cuyahoga Valley, OH

I decided to throw two non-coastal states on this list because, let’s face it—there just aren’t a lot of National Parks on the East Coast. Most of the countries parks are out west, but that doesn’t mean these parks don’t deserve some love too! And Ohio and Kentucky are most certainly eastern states, so let’s get on with it.

I did really like Cuyahoga Valley, but it has to sit at #6 because it is a small park. There isn’t too much to do and it’s built within a neighborhood. That doesn’t mean it’s not absolutely gorgeous though! Cuyahoga Valley is amazing for waterfall chasing, and has a few good hiking trails as well! Don’t miss Brandywine Falls, and make the little trek out to Bridal Veil Falls—both are gorgeous!

Brandywine Falls, Cuyahoga Valley National Park, OH

5: Mammoth Cave, KY

This was super hard to put this low on the list because I genuinely loved my time in Mammoth Cave. Its campground was amazing (honestly up there with my favorite campgrounds, and it would’ve made this list if the list was longer), and the people were so nice. It was a nice cross between a small and big park (no entrance fee, but so much to do, and it’s all contained in itself). Mammoth Cave is the largest cave in the world, at over 600 miles long. The cave itself is awesome, but the park didn’t have a ton of hiking available to me because the ferry was closed when I was there, so I couldn’t access part of the park. Definitely get there early and book a cave tour. They don’t cost very much, and it’s spectacular. I wish I got to take a tour, but they were all sold out by the time I decided to do it. But honestly, Mammoth Cave is an absolutely gorgeous area—definitely add it to your list.

From inside the largest cave in the world, Mammoth Cave National Park, KY

4: Congaree, SC

Okay, this feels like an unfairly low rank for this park because it’s actually one of the most unique places I’ve been. I promise this list keeps getting better! Congaree is genuine swampland. It’s home to tons of amazing insects and spiders, owls, armadillos, and even an invasive crocodile. It’s free to enter, but is also a contained park, so it had a similar vibe to Mammoth Cave. This is one of the most kid friendly parks I’ve been to, and I actually took my little cousins. We did the boardwalk loop, and they became junior rangers, which was so much fun, so definitely do that while you’re there (or in any park for that matter). Take this park in slowly. There’s so much to see that you’ll miss if you’re moving too fast.

The unique landscape of Congaree National Park, SC

3: Shenandoah, VA

Alright, so I genuinely love Shenandoah National Park. I had an absolutely beautiful, nearly spiritual experience here, and it’s such an absolutely gorgeous park full of so much wildlife (aka, my favorite thing about camping). I saw deer, bears, frogs, and even had a butterfly land on me for about 10 minutes. I met another empath here who taught me to listen to the forest. I had an entire campground to myself in the rain. But more than anything, this park has everything you could need. There’s showers and laundry available, gorgeous hikes, and super nice people.

I personally did two hikes in the park, and not the one I came to do. I originally planned on hiking Old Rag but it was going to be the hottest day of the year, so I opted for one that was closer to camp. My first day, I hiked Doyle River Falls, which has three waterfalls, some small creek crossings, and plenty of time to play and swim in the falls. It is super steep heading back though, so be ready for that incline! The second hike I did was Rip Rap, a ten mile loop trail with an ice cold, blue swimming hole in the middle. This hike is a must-do, but hike it backwards: downhill 7 miles first, swim, and then uphill for 3 miles!

Waterfall #3 of the Doyle River Falls hike, Shenandoah National Park, VA

2: Great Smoky Mountains, TN and NC

The Smokies are the most visited National Park in the country. They’re located across two states, Tennessee and North Carolina, and they’re so, so pretty. The Smokies get their name from the thick fog that rests on the mountains every day, and they’re a great place to see wildlife, and tons of biodiversity in the plants. It’s also worth driving part of the Blue Ridge Parkway if you get the chance. I hiked Charlie’s Bunion while I was there and it was so pretty, I made it my profile picture on basically every social media platform I use. The only reason this one is #2 instead of #1 on this list is because of the crowds. There are tons of people in the Smokies, so prepare for tourists, and hit the road early if you can! This park has free entry, but it’s definitely a big park, so give yourself time to drive through and see the sights!

This picture: me at Charlie’s Bunion, aka my profile pic everywhere. Great Smoky Mountains National Park, TN/NC

1: Acadia, ME

Acadia was on my list of my favorite places I visited in 2019, so it’s only natural that it was #1 on this list. Acadia is the perfect mix of mountains and ocean: my two favorite landscapes on this planet. You’ve got pine trees, rocky cliffs, mountains to climb, and rocks to boulder. Acadia is located on an island, so there are plenty of opportunities to see the ocean. If you go in the summer, make sure you get there early in order to do famous attractions like Sand Beach, but if early isn’t exactly your speed, just show up and enjoy the ride (around the gorgeous loop road of course).

My favorite spot in Acadia National Park, ME. If you can find it, it’s yours.

The East Coast is full of big cities and gorgeous landscapes. While there aren’t a lot of America’s Best Idea’s floating around back east, the ones that do call the East Coast their home are stunning, and definitely shouldn’t be missed.

To add these to a larger road trip, consider downloading my ebook: Around the States in 90 Days.

A Visitor's Guide to Olympic National Park

At the end of my 3 month solo road trip, I made a 3 day stop in Olympic National Park, Washington. The Pacific Northwest (PNW) will always have a special place in my heart. It’s the home of pine trees, mountains, and grey coastal shoreline. I first visited Washington as part of a day trip to Portland during the solar eclipse season of 2017, when I went up to Oregon for the very first time. This time, I came at Washington from the East, after visiting Glacier in Montana, and slowly made my way to Olympic about halfway through the week that I spent there.

Olympic is an incredibly unique National Park. It’s home to a vast array of different landscapes and ecosystems, and has a strange layout in terms of its road system. Olympic is known for its temperate rainforest, and is a favorite among backpackers and long distance hikers from all over.

This is my guide to Olympic National Park, and why you should add it to your bucket list.

Rialto Beach, Shore Section, Olympic National Park, WA

Getting to Olympic

Olympic has a strange layout in that you cannot drive through the park, you can only drive around it. Of course, you can drive into certain sections, but you can’t drive straight through, so you have to be really cautious of where each entrance is. The good news is, as you drive the 101 around the park, you’ll pass through plenty of towns, such as the Twilight-famous town of Forks.

It’s important to know where the visitor centers are, and Google Maps will let you put in a specific visitor center when navigating to the park. Look for the Olympic National Park Visitor Center and Hurricane Ridge Visitor Center for information when you first enter the park. For extra information, the Hoh Rainforest Visitor Center is great but a little out of the way. You can also go to the Kaloch Ranger Station for help and the Wilderness Information Center for information regarding backcountry permits.

To enter certain parts of the park, such as Hurricane Ridge and the Hoh Rainforest, you will need to pay an entrance fee or show your interagency pass. It is $30 per car to enter, and your entrance fee at one section of the park will get you into the entire park for 7 days.

Lake Crescent, near Fairhomle Campground

The different landscapes

Olympic has one of the most diverse ecosystems I’ve ever experienced in a National Park. They’ve got bears and banana slugs, beaches and rainforests. Every part of the park is something completely different, and it’s important to check out each of them. The following sections will bring you through each different ecosystem (and let you know which is my favorite!).

The Hoh Rainforest

“While there are multiple temperate rainforests in the United States, the Hoh is the only one you can drive your car into,” said a ranger at the Olympic National Park Visitor Center when I first arrived. I was immediately intrigued and set out to do my big hike through the rainforest on my second day in the park. The Hoh is known for backpackers, and has three trails. Two of them are small loops near the visitor center, but the Hoh River Trail is 17.3 miles long and is used for backpacking. You don’t have to have a permit to day hike on it though, so I went to Five Mile Island and back, making for a 10 mile hike.

The rainforest is home to lush greenery, crazy wildlife, like banana slugs and their darker, invasive species cousins, and tons of tourists. This is definitely the most popular part of the park, so plan accordingly! There is a campground in the Hoh too, just make sure you’ve got your rain fly if you’re tent camping.

Hoh River Trail, Hoh Rainforest, Olympic National Park, WA

Hurricane Ridge

It’s not Washington without mountains. Hurricane Ridge is the mountainous part of the park that is most easily accessible to visitors, as you can drive straight to it! It offers clear views of the park, but is pretty far from the rest of the attractions and is one of the few spots in the park that you need to pay an entrance fee for. Unfortunately, this is also one of the only parts of the park I didn’t get to explore, because it was Labor Day and the roads were too crowded for me to make the day trip.

You can camp at Hurricane Ridge, at Heart O’ the Hills Campground.

Lake Crescent

I recently talked about Lake Crescent in my Best Lakes of 2019 post, so I’ll make this short. Lake Crescent is known as one of the prettiest parts of the park. You can camp here at Fairholme Campground, which I did for 2 nights, and it was lovely. There is a nearby camp store with food, souvenirs, and other camping essentials like ice. The lake is open to boats, kayaks, SUPs, and other water recreation, and the area has plenty of hiking trails. I personally loved the Spruce Railroad Trail, which takes you through a really cool tunnel, and goes along the length of the lakeshore.

Be careful, though, this is the only part of the park that has poison ivy.

You’ll also be nearby Elwha and Sol Duc Valley when you stay near Lake Crescent and both are worth a little day trip (although Elwha is currently closed to cars).

Lake Crescent, Olympic National Park

Shore Section

All of this mountain and forest stuff is connected somehow, but on the other side of the highway you’ll find the shore section. The Olympic shoreline is easily my favorite part of Olympic National Park. It’s my Pacific Ocean that I grew up with, but it’s so different. There are pine trees overlooking the shore, and it’s full of rocky tidepools to explore.

Rialto Beach is my personal favorite, but you can also visit Kaloch and Ruby Beach and the coast near Lake Ozette. You can camp near the shore at Mora Campground (requiring reservations for 2020), and South Beach.

Rialto Beach, Olympic National Park, Shore Section

Truly, Olympic is the most diverse National Park I’ve been to. If you’re looking for a destination with beach, pine trees, mountains, lakes, and a little bit of rainforest (or a lot, depending on how far you hike), you won’t be disappointed with Olympic. So, make sure it’s on your list, and don’t miss the rest of the PNW while you’re at it.

If you’re interested in visiting Olympic and working it into a much larger road trip, check out my ebook: Around the States in 90 Days.

Why It’s More Important Than Ever to #LeaveNoTrace

As we go into 2020, welcome a new decade, and watch the birth of the 62nd National Park in the US (welcome, White Sands!), it’s becoming increasingly apparent how important it is to take care of our wild spaces. Climate change is real, it’s happening, and it’s greatly affecting the places we love and the big one we call home: Earth. This means it’s more crucial than ever that everyone do their part to at least reduce your own personal carbon footprint, because, the truth is, but the old adage goes: if you’re not part of the solution, you’re part of the problem, and in 2020, so much is accessible that you’re honest missing out if you haven’t adopted at least one better for the planet habit. Now, I don’t want to get all sad and depressing on you while we welcome this new year. Instead, I want to talk about why Leave No Trace should be trending, and I don’t just mean on the internet.

Note: this post may contain affiliate links

Big Sur, CA

What is Leave No Trace?

The Leave No Trace Principles, or LNT, are guidelines for all people to follow when they’re exploring wild places. They originated in the US, and gained popularity in the public lands (NPS, USDA, and BLM), but could and should be applied to every place on this planet. There are 7 LNT Principles:

1: Plan ahead and prepare

This just goes with the old boy scout saying: always be prepared. This will allow for your own safety as well as the safety and preservation of the land you’re exploring.

2: Travel and camp on durable surfaces

The idea of principal number 2 is to keep you away from areas that could be severely damaged by your footsteps or tent. Of course, this doesn’t always mean you have to stay on trail—and sometimes you simply can’t, but look out to make sure you’re not damaging any of the land you’re walking on.

3. Dispose of waste properly

This one should be a no brainer—throw away your trash! You wouldn’t just leave garbage on the floor in your house, so don’t do it in the woods, desert, beach, or anywhere else either. Better yet: leave it better than you found it—pick up any trash you find on trails or in campsites as well.

If you’re interested in joining an awesome volunteer group with the goal of cleaning our wild spaces, become a Wildkeeper! Applications open on the Keep Nature Wild website this month. (I am not an affiliate of KNW, I just love and support their cause and have worked as a volunteer with them for over a year.)

Me at the Grand Canyon wearing a shirt I got from Keep Nature Wild (you get a huge discount for joining the ambassador/volunteer program too!)

4: Leave what you find

Have you ever heard the saying “take nothing but pictures, leave nothing but footprints?” I think that pretty much sums up principle number 4, and most of them, actually.

5: Minimize campfire impacts

The last thing you want is to start a wildfire. Make sure that your campfire is only in designated areas such as fire rings when you’re camping so that you can prevent any sparks from flying.

6: Respect wildlife

This is a HUGE one. I see so many people approaching animals in National Parks, and it’s not only incredibly dangerous for them, but it also puts the animal in danger. Please keep your distance from all wildlife, and keep dogs and other pets on designated trails to prevent foreign substances (you know, poop) and bugs from affecting local animals.

7: Be considerate of others

Don’t be the person who’s flying a drone in a National Park. While your shot might look cool, you’re ruining the experience for everyone else who came out to be in nature. Make sure that you’re respectful, and try to avoid traveling to busy spots on holiday weekends.

This deer crossed my trail in Voyageurs National Park, Minnesota. I patiently waited for him to return to the woods before I continued hiking.

Why LNT is so important in 2020

Especially with tourism in our natural spaces being at an all time high, it’s more crucial than ever to leave these spaces better than we found them in order to preserve them for more generations to come. That way, California will still have its oceans, Montana will still have its Glaciers, and the Grand Canyon will still be just as beautiful, even years down the line.

Grinnell Glacier, Glacier National Park, MT. If you look closely you can see the waterfall of melting ice on the right hand side.

What other ways can I help respect my wild spaces?

I’m glad you asked! There are so many ways you can help protect nature at home. Aside from practicing LNT when you’re outside, you can definitely reduce your carbon footprint in your everyday life. Here are some of my favorite ideas:

Don’t buy products with plastic if you can avoid them (shop zero waste products here!)

Shop second hand or ethical clothing (check out one of my favorite ethical clothing brands, Wholesome Culture)

Eat plant based as much as possible (January is a great time to make the switch to a vegan lifestyle!)

Support brands that support our planet when you do need to buy new stuff, like Madera Outdoor, Eco Roots, and larger companies like REI.

Responsible tourism: make sure that when you travel, you’re not impacting the communities you’re visiting in any way, and maybe even find a way to volunteer.

Unplug, go off the grid, run off solar, do whatever you can in your everyday life that makes sense for YOU!

The planet’s tallest trees in Redwood National and State Parks, CA. Let’s plant more in 2020.

Being kinder to our planet is incredibly crucial when it comes to having a cleaner Earth. And this goes much further than simply picking up your trash (but please don’t stop doing so!). It has to do with simply being respectful of our natural places, and doing our part to make our own impact as insignificant as it can be. Making sure that we’re being kind to wildlife, other visitors, and the land we walk on is the best way to make sure that we start taking care of this planet the right way, and truly “leave nothing but footprints.”

Your Guide to Crater Lake National Park

When I was traveling through the continental 48 during the summer of 2019, Crater Lake was the last stop before I touched ground back in my home state of California. Now, I’ve mentioned Crater Lake in plenty of blog posts so far (here, here, and here), but I’ve also gotten a couple questions asking for more information about actually visiting the park.

Note: this post may contain affiliate links

Now, Crater Lake is the only National Park in Oregon, and it’s one of the smallest big parks in the country. I tend to categorize the parks into “small” and “big” parks, the big parks being the ones with an entry gate, possible campgrounds, and use the America the Beautiful Pass. Crater Lake, while it is smaller in acreage, contains about 30 miles of the Pacific Crest Trail, a dormant volcano, and the deepest lake in the country.

These are my tips and tricks for getting the most out of your trip to Crater Lake. So, grab your 0 degree sleeping bag (it’s cold out there!), some yummy snacks, and a park map, and let’s explore one of the most unique locations in the country.

View of Wizard Island from Sun Notch

Getting there

Crater Lake is located about an hour and a half south of Bend, OR. You’ll drive through some of the most beautiful forests to get there, no matter which entrance you come in through. When you arrive, you will be met with that classic entrance gate. Without the America the Beautiful Pass, park entry costs $25 per car.

Phantom Ship, as seen from Sun Notch

About the park

Crater Lake is the ninth deepest lake in the world, and the deepest in the United States. Because of this, it has a beautiful deep blue color to it. Crater Lake is one of the many volcanic parks in the country, and is also home to an unexpected crop of pinnacles formed by lava flow.

While the park is open year-round, during the winter months, the road is closed to cars. Yearly, the park receives over 500 inches of snow, and the best months to go are July, August, and September. The park is never very warm though, the highest average temperature only reaching 80 degrees Fahrenheit, and dropping into the 40s at night. Because of this, it’s incredibly crucial to have the right gear, and a 0 degree sleeping bag just in case, even if you’re camping in your vehicle or RV. (I highly recommend the sleeping bags available from Madera Outdoor—they’re warm, lightweight, vegan, and you’ll receive 20% off your order.)

There is a scenic loop road that will bring you all around the lake and park in the summer months. The 33 mile long road will bring you to all of the 30 overlooks, as well as the park’s hikes, except those located on the offshoot that is Pinnacles Road. Pinnacles Road is where you can find a small waterfall hike called Plakni Falls as well as the Pinnacles Trail, which has one of the most unique views in the park. Here, you’ll also find the park’s dry campground, Lost Creek.

The strange Pinnacles area of Crater Lake National Park

Staying in the park

There are two campgrounds in the park, and I actually highly recommend staying in Lost Creek campground, even for vanlifers. The campground is only $5, and you’ll get the extra security of being in the park (always a plus for solo female travelers), as well as the convenience of not having to leave. It does not take reservations, and did not have running water during summer of 2019.

The other campground is called Mazama, and is located near Rim Village, which give you close access to the visitor center, clean water, gift shop, and in-park gas station. It costs between $21 and $43 to camp here, so I’d recommend this for families and tourists, rather than overlanders. All campsites in the park, including those at Lost Creek come with a bear locker.

There is also lodging available in the park. As with all national parks, I’d recommend booking your lodging (or even camping) reservations a few months in advance through the park’s official website and whatever reservation system they have set up. There are two motels available in Crater Lake: Crater Lake Lodge ($202 per night), and The Cabins at Mazama Village ($164 per night).

You can also eat at the restaurant in the park, which is called the Rim Village Café, and buy groceries and snacks at the Mazama Village Store. The Crater Lake Lodge also offers a dining experience inside the park.

Plaikni Falls

Hiking in Crater Lake

I constantly heard that Crater Lake isn’t worth spending more than a day in because all the hikes are the same, which is simply not true! There are tons of little hikes to do, which are great for families and beginner level hikers that will take you to places like waterfalls (Plaikni Falls), the unique pinnacles (Pinnacles Trail), and views of the lake and it’s famous Wizard Island and Phantom Ship (Sun Notch).

There are longer hikes in the park perfect for moderate to advanced hikers. Fantastic moderate hikes are Watchman Peak and Discovery Point, which both offer amazing scenic panoramic views of the lake.

For my advanced hikers, the best hike you can do is Cleetwood Cove. This is the only legal access to the water in Crater Lake National Park. Here, you can swim, take boat tours, or just relax by the water. Other amazing advanced hikes are Wizard Summit (trailhead only accessible by boat), and Mount Scott (the park’s highest point).

Crater Lake is beautiful, even on a cloudy day

Crater Lake truly is one of the most unique landscapes in the country that I’ve personally visited (so far). While it’s very cold, and a smaller park, its beauty is unmatched by any of the country’s other famous lakes. From camping to hiking to simply being an amazing vacation spot, Crater Lake has something for every type of traveler to experience, and is sure to help you appreciate the outdoors just a little bit more.

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To read more about Crater Lake and many of the other national parks in the country, check out my ebook: Around the States in 90 Days in the shop!

Your Guide to Carlsbad Caverns National Park

Carlsbad Caverns is one of my favorite southern national parks. Located in Southern New Mexico, just minutes from the Texan state line, Carlsbad Caverns is found in the Chihuahuan Desert, and was formed by sulfuric acid and limestone.

This is a small park, and it doesn’t have a campground. Because of that, there are only a couple things to do in the park, but that doesn’t make them any less spectacular.

Carlsbad Caverns is home to two of the most unique experiences I’ve had in national parks, and I’ve been to 33 of them. I went with my family during the section of my summer trip that they met up with me for, and we stayed in Carlsbad at a nearby hotel. This was my dad’s second time in the park, and the good news is, it hasn’t really changed much, so let’s head out, and explore what Carlsbad Caverns has to offer.

Inside the cave!

Camping

As I said before, Carlsbad Caverns doesn’t offer a campground inside the park. The good news is, one of its nearby parks does offer camping in an amazing little campground near the tallest peak in Texas—Guadelupe Mountains National Park. Camping here is $15 and you’ll have easy access to all of this park’s trails as well.

Tips for visiting

Carlsbad Caverns is one of the most accessible national parks for tourists. There are a lot of parks that require hiking in order to see the park’s beauty, but in Carlsbad Caverns, you’ll be able to experience everything this park has to offer on its paved walking trail.

While this park doesn’t require an admission fee, you do need to pay to enter the cave. Because of this, I highly recommend investing in an America the Beautiful Pass, Military, or Senior interagency pass for your admission, especially if you plan on camping in Guadelupe Mountains and visiting any other national parks in the country within the same year. Without a pass, everyone over age 16 is $15 for entry, but the pass will get a family of 4 in for free.

Sunset from the visitor center in Carlsbad Caverns National Park

Seeing the cave

I’ve visited a few caves around the country, and while Carlsbad Caverns isn’t the largest (Mammoth Cave, KY is), it’s definitely the most spectacular (in my opinion). There are two ways to enter the cave. If you’re not a hiker, I’d highly suggest taking the elevator. It’s a 700 foot journey into the earth, and you’ll be able to take your time exploring the cave’s paved path by foot. If you want to hike in, that is also an option, but know that the cutoff for admission to hike is 5 pm MST in the summer.

When in the cave, please stay on the paved path, and don’t touch the cave!

Ranger-led tours

If you want a more immersive experience when it comes to viewing the cave, you can sign up for a ranger-led tour. You can reserve your spot on a tour through the Carlsbad Caverns official website. Tours will take you through different areas of the cave, depending on how involved of a tour you want to do, and tours cost between $7 and $20 without a senior access pass.

The bat flight program

Every night at sundown, people gather in the park’s amphitheater to watch the bats leave the cave. This event is actually the way that Carlsbad Caverns was discovered in the first place. Around exactly the same time every night, the bats leave the cave to feed for the night, and it’s a spectacular sight you don’t want to miss.

Tip: bring food into the park. The park restaurant closes at 6 in the summer, but the bats don’t leave the cave until 8, so you might get hungry while you wait.

The view of the New Mexico desert from the visitor center

Carlsbad Caverns is a fantastic small national park. There isn’t a ton to do, but what there is to do is absolutely mind-blowing. If you’ve never seen a cave, this is a great place to start, but be warned, this one will raise your expectations for all caves you’ll visit after.

Another place to add to your list: MAMMOTH CAVE NATIONAL PARK

Mammoth Cave has over 600 miles of explored cave in the middle of Kentucky. It is the largest cave yet to be discovered in the world, and is free to enter the park. The cave is $6 to enter, and there is camping available in the park.

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To visit Carlsbad Caverns, Mammoth Cave, and more, check out my ebook, Around the States in 90 Days!

My 2020 Travel Resolutions

It’s that time of year again, and I’ve always been a sucker for New Year’s Resolutions. There’s something about the end of the year, the closing of a new chapter, even though of course, it’s just an arbitrary line time that doesn’t actually mean anything at all. But that doesn’t stop us from making a list of goals for the new year, every year.

2020 is going to be a huge travel year for me, and not just because I’ll be officially starting my full time vanlife journey.

I start my year in Thailand, and almost immediately fly to my first new country of 2020: Laos, all part of a huge volunteer excursion. Now, I think travel is the perfect way to start my year, as a jump start toward all of the other travel goals I have for the year. I’m a person of lists and goals because once I make a goal for myself, I have to figure out a way to make it happen.

These are all of the travel goals I have for 2020 (so far).

One of my favorite California National Parks, Yosemite. Here’s to crossing off those last 3!

1: Finish crossing off the rest of the California National Parks

California is my home state, and it’s also the state in the country that has the most national parks. It has nine, and I’ve been to 6 so far. The three I have left have felt a little inaccessible to me for a few reasons, but I think with the van it’ll definitely be possible to finally make the trips.

The ones I have left are Channel Islands, Death Valley, and Lassen Volcanic.

Now, with Lassen Volcanic, I have no excuses. I chose to skip this one on my summer road trip because I was homesick and being back in California made me want to head south, not east. I will 100% find my way here in 2020.

Death Valley is a little intimidating to me because it’s the largest national park in the continental 48. This means I’ll definitely have to carry extra gas, oil, and other fluids my old van might need, as well as jumper cables. Death Valley seems like a magical desert to me, and I’m super drawn to the salt flats, so I think I have to finally make my way there, especially because it’s only 3 hours from my home city. It would take a lot of stress off if I could caravan with someone so that if one vehicle has issues, the other can make the drive to get help.

Channel Islands is a tricky one because you can’t drive there. I’m a plan-as-I-go type of traveler, and you have to reserve ferry tickets ahead of time. The ferries also aren’t run by the NPS, so my annual pass won’t really help me out when it comes to admission here. But I also have no excuse because the harbor is less than an hour from my home base.

More California beauty! Can’t wait to get back to NorCal to explore Lassen…

2: Visit three places that are completely new to me

This one goes a bit bigger than the national parks, for this little category, I’d like to cross off three big places that are new to me, meaning countries or states. Now, I only have one more state to cross off, and that’s Alaska. I’m desperately trying to figure out a way to make it up there in my van, but it honestly scares me to the point where I know I definitely want a travel or caravan buddy for this one.

Other places that are in the works for 2020 are Laos (100% happening, I will be flying there from Thailand in early January), and potentially Canada and Israel.

3: Cross off five national parks that are not in California

I’ve visited 33 US national parks so far, but surprisingly, this is only a little more than half of the ones out there. I’d love to visit at least five new national parks in states other than my own. I’m thinking the Southwest seems promising (think, Saguaro, Petrified Forest, Zion, Canyonlands, Capitol Reef, Arches…), but this could definitely fit in with goal #2 if I make it to Alaska, since I will be visiting the three you can drive to up there, if I make it (Denali, Kenai Fjords, and Wrangell St. Elias).

Me, last time I was in Utah. The Southwest is definitely calling my name…

4: Pick a destination completely at random

Since I travel full time, I thought it might be cool to figure out a new way to pick a place rather than planning. I’m such a planner when it comes to the destinations I want to visit along a big trip, so I’d love to see what magic could come my way from selecting a spot at random to explore. I want to bring more spontaneity into my larger trips but because I love the planning stage so much, there’s usually little room for this. I think this might be a cool way to attract it into my life and travels.

5: Experience something completely out of my comfort zone

I’m not quite sure what this means yet, because as with anyone, it takes a bit of soul-searching to figure out what exactly that comfort zone is. This could 100% fall into the category of one of these other travel goals, or it could be something as huge like taking that leap and going to Alaska or something super small trying a strange and new food I’ve never heard of (vegan, of course).

It’s all about seeing where the journey takes me.

Special bonus goal number 6: Travel full time and have Halle’s Wandering Soul fuel my adventures

This one is entirely based on you guys. I do work online, and this is one of my many hustles, but I’d absolutely love for it to be a little more than just a hustle. I plan on putting out some insane content this year, on here, on Youtube, on Instagram, on all of my platforms. But this all depends on you guys, so share my posts, click through, watch the Youtube videos, tell your friends about this crazy solo female vanlife journey I’m on, and get people excited about changing their lives through travel. My goal is to inspire you, and making that difference in more people’s lives is a huge goal of mine.

(If you’re also interested in learning to make money online and change your life in 2020, click HERE!)

Acadia National Park was a place that pushed the boundaries of my comfort zone. It was where I first let vanlife into my life and started camping for free at night, and the place I first tried bouldering.

This upcoming year, I think we’ve all got a lot to look forward to. And the thing is, it’s all about manifesting them into existence rather than just waiting for them to happen on their own. If you want something, or want to visit somewhere, or want to actually get traveling, tell yourself it’s going to happen, and then make it happen!

I’d love to hear your 2020 travel goals. Leave them in the post comments, or, if you share this post, add your goals to your share and tag me @halleswanderingsoul (on Instagram and Facebook, and @hallewanders on Twitter, in an actual post, not your story because I’m currently out of the country and won’t see your post for a little bit!).

To help inspire your 2020, head over to the shop to find some pre-made trip itineraries just ready to inspire you! Use them to plan your next little trip, or your first huge trip! Go with a partner, go with a pet, or go solo. It doesn’t matter, as long as you go where your heart is leading you. Happy New Year, everyone, safe travels.

-HWS

My Favorite Destinations of 2019

And why they should be on your list for 2020

It’s no secret that I traveled a lot in 2019. I visited all 48 connecting states, 29 national parks (some more than once), and I’ll be ending my year in Southeast Asia. So many of these places made a huge impact on me as a traveler, a writer, and a solo person, but only a few can count as my favorites. Those places left a mark on me that I will never be able to shake, and I think I’ll spend my entire life trying to return to them as many times as I possibly can. This is a list of my absolutely favorite spots I visited during 2019, and why you should add them to your 2020 bucket list.

4: Acadia National Park, Maine

Acadia instantly drew me in as I drove around its loop road for the first time. Before visiting Acadia, I had no idea that you could experience pine trees and ocean in one spot, an experience I only ever saw here and in Olympic, WA. Acadia was also a bit of a sentimental stop for me, since it marked the halfway point in my trip around the country. Acadia is an absolutely mind-blowing place. It’s so unique in its landscape, is home to some crazy wildlife, and it’s one of the northernmost national parks in the continental US.

Why it should be on your 2020 bucket list:

Acadia is an absolutely beautiful spot that isn’t too crowded with tourists right now. It’s amazing for overlanders, since it’s nearby one of my favorite free camp spots I’ve ever stayed at, and has a little something for every type of traveler, from tourists who just want to drive the gorgeous road and look at the views, to climbers who want to do some crazy bouldering, to hikers who want to climb a mountain. There’s even a beach in the park that leads you to the Atlantic Ocean.

Acadia National Park, ME

3: Devils Tower, Wyoming

Devils Tower is one of the most unique things this country’s landscape has to offer. Devils Tower was formed by what used to be a volcano, and is now a sacred place for Native Americans and a popular climbing spot (just make sure you get your permit first!). Devils Tower is located in the American Grasslands, and is home to wildlife such as prairie dogs. The park contains about 8 miles worth of hiking trails and plenty of opportunities to view the tower.

Why it should be on your 2020 bucket list:

Devils Tower is definitely living in the shadow of its Wyoming brother and sister: Yellowstone and the Tetons. It’s a smaller park, but it’s so unique compared to the rest of this country’s landscapes. Don’t miss an opportunity to experience it, especially now that the prairie dog populations are doing really well.

Check out my free guide to Devils Tower!

Devils Tower, Wyoming

2: The Grand Canyon, Arizona

The Grand Canyon is one of those places you have to see at some point in your life. It’s incredibly vast, and has far more to offer than many people think. I had some incredible wildlife encounters here, and completed one of my favorite hikes I’ve ever done, the South Kaibab Trail. The Grand Canyon is so much more than people give it credit for because of its popularity with tourists, and honestly, was an emotional experience. I’d dreamed of seeing the Grand Canyon for a long time, which is part of the reason it was the site of my first solo trip, all the way back in March. Regardless of emotional attachment though, make sure you visit, especially if you’ve never been to Arizona.

Why it should be on your 2020 bucket list:

The Grand Canyon is just going to get more crowded as travel becomes more accessible. Make sure you see it before it’s completely crowded with tourists, and, who am I kidding? It’s the Grand Canyon! If you haven’t seen it yet, you need to. I promise it’s more than you think.

Access my free guide to the Grand Canyon HERE!

View from Mather Point in the Grand Canyon, Arizona

1: Glacier National Park, Montana

Glacier is hands down my favorite place on Earth right now. From the towering mountains, wildlife you can’t find anywhere else, perfect campground, and of course, glaciers, Glacier National Park is popular for a reason. This is one of the largest national parks I’ve been to, and also one of the most popular. It’s located right on the Canadian border, and no matter where you go, the views are more than you could have ever dreamed them to be. Here, you can spot waterfalls, mountain goats, and grizzly bears, and complete my favorite hike in the world, Grinnell Glacier. (Tip: Many Glacier, where the hike is located will be under construction in 2020, so make sure you plan accordingly)

Why it should be on your 2020 bucket list:

Let’s face it, Glacier’s glaciers are melting. The sooner you make time to go see them, the better. Right now, there was still ice in August, but as the years go on, the amount of glaciers in the park is dwindling, so make sure you see them before it’s too late.

View from the High Line Trail in Glacier National Park, Montana

2019 was a game-changing year for me in terms of travel. I visited some of the most beautiful places in the United States, and its inspired me to expand and maybe cross some borders next year, in 2020. Tune in next week to hear my 2020 travel goals, and get inspired to add to your own list in this new decade!

To help you start planning an epic 2020 trip, check out my ebook: Around the States in 90 Days.

A Complete Guide to Visiting the Grand Canyon

The Grand Canyon is among my favorite places on Earth. It was the site of my first ever solo trip, and will forever hold a special place in my heart. Located in Northern Arizona, the Grand Canyon is one of the Earth’s natural wonders, but it’s far more than just a hole in the ground.

At the bottom of the canyon is the Colorado River, flowing between the two main rims of the canyon. The Grand Canyon is home to a huge amount of wildlife, from elk to marmots to California condors, and it is the second most visited national park in the country.

I visited the Grand Canyon solo for three days during my last ever spring break. This was not only the perfect place for a solo trip due to the fact that it feels incredibly touristy and safe, but it was an absolutely beautiful place to visit alone. Being solo for this trip allowed me to really take it in, and this is a place you really have to be present for.

Being alone also allowed me to see most of the South Rim while I was there, which is the most popular section of the park to visit. This is your guide for planning your own trip.

Note: this post may contain affiliate links

View from the South Rim in March

So… there’s more than one rim?

Yes! The two main sections of the park are the North Rim and the South Rim. The South Rim is open year-round, and is located, well, further south, which means it’s a little warmer. The North Rim closes in the winter months and off season because it’s located at a higher elevation, and generally reopens in May. This elevation difference is so great, I’ve heard stories of people waking up to snow in the summer!

Most of this article will be about the South Rim, as it’s far easier to access for tourists.

Canyon wall on the South Kaibab Trail

Getting to the park

The South Rim is incredibly easy to access. It has that classic “pay at the gate” type of entrance most large national parks have ($35 to enter, or America the Beautiful or other interagency pass). The closest town to the South Rim is Tusayan, and if you don’t want to drive, you can park your car in town and shuttle into the park (highly recommended during busy weeks, such as holidays and spring break).

I hear a lot of questions about visiting the Grand Canyon from Vegas, and I just want to put it in here that the South Rim is a 5 hour drive from Vegas. It is not super accessible. You can visit the West Rim, which is not part of the national park, and is home to the glass Grand Canyon skywalk. This is a cool thing to do, but it is not the national park, and will not give you that classic experience.

View as you approach Skeleton Point on the South Kaibab Trail

Staying in (or near) the park

I’m a traveler who prefers campgrounds, so when I visited, I stayed in Mather Campground because it was the only one of the two on the South Rim that was open in March (yes, March is still considered winter!). I reserved my site 3 months in advance (during that good ol’ government shutdown, remember that?), so I’d recommend booking a site as soon as you decide you want to camp in the park. Hopefully, you’ll be greeted by a herd of elk, like I was (which you can see in THIS VIDEO)—just make sure you give them their space! There is also a hotel in the park, and a second campground open during peak season (summer months) called Desert View.

There is also a campground in the North Rim if you choose to experience the northern side of the park. It is called North Rim Campground and is first come first served ONLY for 2020.

If you can’t book a spot in the park, no worries! Like I mentioned before, the town of Tusayan is an awesome place to stay because you can shuttle into the park from your hotel. The town of Williams is about a 45 minute drive from the park, which also has plenty of hotel and Airbnb options.

Marmot hanging out next to Skeleton Point

What is there to do?

I’ve heard tons of people say that they’ve gotten bored at the Grand Canyon, but the truth is, there is so much to see and do! If you’re not a hiker, there are plenty of sightseeing areas to explore.

You can walk part of the Rim Trail, which is a flat, 13 mile long stretch with views from the top of the South Rim. Most people only do a couple miles and stop at various viewpoints. A great place to start is behind the visitor center, at Mather Point (different from Mather Campground). Here, you’ll get some of the best views from the South Rim.

It’s also always useful to make a stop at the visitor center. This is where you can get all of your questions answered and explore the museum to learn more about the park. Here is also where you can find out information about various ranger programs.

Other great viewpoints work seeing are Yaki Point (known for being a great spot to view the sunset), and Yavapai Point (accessible from the Rim Trail).

It seems to just go on forever…

I’m a hiker, where should I go?

The Grand Canyon is huge for hiking. While there are trails rated difficult on both rims, the most famous trails in the park are Bright Angel and South Kaibab (there is also the North Kaibab Trail on the North Rim). Both trails go to the bottom of the canyon, but you cannot go to the bottom without a backcountry permit.

The difference between the two is that Bright Angel is longer, but not as steep, which makes it the more popular of the two trails. South Kaibab is far steeper, but also far less crowded. I did a bit of Bright Angel on my first day in the park, but it was a bit too crowded for my liking. The next day I took the shuttle to South Kaibab (there is no parking lot—you have to shuttle), and it was far more enjoyable.

There are three stops before the river on the South Kaibab Trail: Ooh Ahh Point (great for families with kids), Cedar Ridge (perfect for moderate level hikers), and Skeleton Point (awesome for advanced day hikers). There is a similar set of rest stops along Bright Angel: Mile and a Half Rest House, Three Mile Rest House, and Indian Garden. Both big trails are out and back trails, and you will have to hike up the way you came, so bring water and plenty of food and plan accordingly.

Crazy rock formations out here

Phantom Ranch and Havasupai

If you’re at all on Instagram, you’ve heard of Havasupai: the famous blue waterfall in the Grand Canyon. And if you’re into hiking, you might’ve heard about Phantom Ranch and Phantom Campground. Both spots require a backpacking permit to visit, and permits to Havasupai are growing more and more difficult to get (and cost $150 per night per person). Please do not attempt these hikes without proper training and a permit.

While we’re on the topic of backpacking, it is also possible to hike from the South Rim to the North Rim, but you also need a permit to accomplish this. If you do plan on backpacking, please make sure you have the right gear, and a cold weather sleeping bag made for backpacking.

View from Mather Point

Anything else?

Of course, there’s so much more to experience, but these are the most notable, and with this information under your belt, you’ll be more than prepared for a trip to GCNP. The most important thing is to respect wildlife. Especially when larger wildlife like elk are present, it’s necessary to keep the Leave No Trace principles in mind and stay 25 yards away!

But above all, have fun! If you’re camping, make sure you have the right gear and you’ll have the best time—camping in the Grand Canyon is one of my favorite camping experiences. Make sure you carry water, but also carry a camera: this park will not fail to blow you away.

Leave your questions about the park below! I’d love to hear from you!

A Quick Guide to Devils Tower National Monument

I’ve written about Devils Tower quite a few times now, so it’s clear that it’s one of my favorite spots in the continental United States. It’s also one of the most unique landscapes I’ve experienced, and is home to one of the most popular and challenging climbing spots in the country. Devils Tower was the first National Monument in the United States, and is located in Eastern Wyoming.

The tower itself is actually the remains of what used to be a volcano, and the area surrounding it is considered sacred by the Native American tribes in the area. When visiting, please respect prayer flags you might see hanging on trees and appreciate their unique beauty.

Devils Tower doesn’t just have cultural and geologic history, it’s also a huge piece of pop cultural history. Devils Tower was a major part of the set and story in Stephen Spielberg’s Close Encounters of the Third Kind, and because of that, many of the surrounding souvenir shops sell alien themed gifts.

Devils Tower is run by the National Park Service, but it is not a National Park. Despite the fact that it’s been a National Monument since 1906, it hasn’t received that legendary upgrade. A lot of people say that this is because the park itself is so small, but in my opinion, the tower itself is so magnificent, it deserves park status.

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Preparing for your visit: things to know

Although Devils Tower is an incredibly small park, it’s absolutely magnificent. The road through the park is very short—only about 6 miles long from the entrance gate to the visitor center, and there is only one entrance. Regardless, the drive will take you past gorgeous red rocks, a prairie dog town, the park’s campground, and through gorgeous pine forests before you get up close and personal with the tower.

Entrance to the park is $25 or an interagency pass. You can either enter the park coming from Sundance or Hulett, but again, there is only one entrance, so it just depends on which direction you’re coming from. Hulett, which is about 10 miles from the park, has the closest gas station, but just outside the park, there are other services at the KOA (grocery and souvenirs), and the other souvenir shop across the street, which has WiFi. Having access to WiFi while I was there was a huge life saver for me, since I work online. This makes Devils Tower rank high for me in terms of accessibility to full time travelers. (If you’re trying to get on the road full time, or simply want to learn different ways to make money online, check out Wired Creatives HERE).

The visitor center will be your best friend while you’re here. The rangers are super helpful, and there is plenty of parking, including parking for larger vehicles and RV’s. The visitor center is the closest you can get to the tower without climbing it, and is the site of the Tower Loop Trail, a paved trail that I’ll get into more detail about in a couple sections.

Staying in or near the park

There really are only two options for a stay at Devil’s Tower. My personal preference is to stay in the park. I stayed at Belle Fourche Campground, which had amazing views of the tower from site A12, and cost $20 per night. The campground had picnic tables, flush toilets, and clean water for drinking. Plus, there’s the added safety of being inside the park, which is a huge plus when you’re a solo female traveler. The campground got strong AT&T service, which was also a plus because I didn’t have to go totally off the grid while I was there. If you stay in Belle Fourche, make sure you go to a ranger program or two—they’re super fun, and you can see climbers descending the tower at night from the amphitheater.

The other option is to stay at the KOA. Here, you’ll have more options for accommodations, from electric hookup sites for RV’s to little cabins if you’re not into camping. The KOA is much more expensive, and comes with a wider range of amenities.

Sunset over Devils Tower from my campsite in Belle Fourche Campground

Hiking Devils Tower

While Devils Tower is incredibly accessible to all kinds of tourists, you can easily see all of the easy-to-reach places in one day. These include seeing the prairie dog town, hitting the visitor center, and walking the Tower Loop Trail, a paved trail that circumnavigates the tower. Rock climbing is also popular here, but it’s not recommended unless you’re an advanced climber. You can also work the Tower Loop Trail into a much longer day hike, which I’ll get into in a second.

You can easily just do one of the few trails in the park, but none of the single trails are very long at all. Instead, since I’m an experienced hiker, it was recommended to me to do the “Devils Tower Marathon,” which connects all of the 8 miles of trails into one big hike. To do this, you’ll start by driving up a dirt road that’s near the visitor center to the Joyner Ridge Trail. From there, you’ll take a connector trail to the first half of the Red Beds Trail. From Red Beds, you can either cross the road and do the Valley View trail, which will take you near the prairie dog town. I opted out of this section because it was very overgrown and ticks and stinging nettles are a real thing. Instead, I just continued on the Red Beds Trail until I reached the visitor center, where I did the Tower Loop Trail before finishing the Red Beds Trail. Red Beds ends back at the connector trail, where you can go back and finish the Joyner Ridge Trail. This hike is between 6.5 and 8 miles total, depending on how many sections you complete.

View from the Red Beds Trail

Devils Tower is a unique experience everyone should have at least once in their life. It was an unexpected adventure for me, and I think it will forever be one of my favorite places in the country. From its cultural and pop cultural history, to its trails and wildlife, there’s so much to see here, and it should definitely be on your list for 2020, or any future year after that.

To add Devils Tower into a much longer US road trip, check out my ebook, Around the States in 90 Days.