Your Guide to Our Public Lands

During my time on the road, I’ve spent a lot of time on public land. From my slight obsession with the National Park Service, to using BLM and Forest Land to park my van overnight, I’ve experienced just about every type of public land there is in the United States. The thing is, all these terms can get confusing, and I’ve seen it happen more than once where state parks and BLM land are mistaken for National Parks. Each type of public land is vastly different, has different rules and expectations, and are run by different sectors of the government. This is a complete guide to exploring public land in the United States.

Dispersed camping on BLM land in California

National Parks

National Parks are easily the most popular and the most commonly referenced public land in the US. Many people believe that all public land is Park Land, which is an easy mistake to make. I used to think the same thing! But really, National Park only refers to the 419 sites run by the National Park Service. This includes sites with “Park Status” such as Yosemite, the Grand Canyon, and Yellowstone, as well as National Monuments (Devils Tower), National Military Parks (Gettysburg), National Historic Parks (Harper’s Ferry), and other natural sites, such as National Lakeshores, Recreation Areas, and Seashores.

The National Park Service (NPS) is my personal favorite because they truly go out of their way to protect their land. National Parks are zones free from hunting, lumber, fishing, and more, and are solely used for recreation, conservation, and education.

Bryce Canyon National Park, UT

Camping is only allowed in National Parks if you are in a developed campground. Lots of NPS campgrounds can be reserved in advance, but some are first come first served, so check on the Park’s website before visiting. Backcountry camping is allowed, but like with all public lands, you must have a permit.

Most National Parks require an entrance fee to visit, and this can range from $20-35 depending on the park. I highly suggest purchasing an America the Beautiful Pass if you are planning on visiting more than 3 National Park Service sites per year.

Glacier National Park, MT

National Forests

While the word “national” often means National Forests get lumped in with National Parks, they are vastly different from each other. The main difference is that National Forests are run by the United States Department of Agriculture (USDA), not the NPS. National Forests are not necessarily actual forests. They often don’t actually have trees! They’re just called forests by the USDA. Oftentimes, National Forests surround National Parks, and they’re recognizable by their brown and yellow welcome signs.

National Forests are always free to visit, as they often surround roads and highways. You will, however have to pay to camp in most developed campgrounds, and sometimes there is a parking fee for trailheads and picnic areas. An America the Beautiful Pass will waive parking fees for National Forests, but not camping fees.

Cathedral Rock, a trail maintained by one of Sedona, AZ’s many National Forests

The USDA is very different from the NPS in the way that they protect their land. Often, people can secure fishing or hunting permits in National Forests (but, please don’t. You know, respect nature). The USDA will use parts of National Forests for lumber farming, so land is not as protected in a National Forest as it is in a National Park.

The main plus-side of National Forests is something I discovered in the vanlife community, but anyone who camps often will benefit from this as well. National Forests usually allow dispersed camping: camping in undeveloped areas. This means you can park off of just about any dirt road in the Forest, and camp for free, so for overlanders and car campers, this can be a great way to never have to pay for a place to stay during a long road trip. Disclaimer: check the USDA website for the Forest you are in to check if there are any specific dispersed camping regulations in the area.

Fun Fact! The USDA and National Forest sector of our public lands is home to the only National Grassland in the prairie region of the United States. The Sheyenne National Grassland is located in North Dakota and it is absolutely gorgeous and unexpected if you happen to be going through the middle of the country.

Sheyenne National Grasslands, ND

State Parks

Believe it or not, people often also confuse State Parks for National Parks. State Parks are incredibly different from National Parks. State Parks are not run by the federal government like the other public lands on this list. State Parks are run by their state’s specific state government, so their rules and laws depend on those of the state, versus those of the federal government. State Parks are often smaller (other than the beautiful Anza Borrego Desert State Park in CA), and all of them require entrance fees averaging at about $10 across the country. The America the Beautiful Pass will not grant you entrance to a State Park (believe me, I’ve tried, many times), and instead, you must purchase a state parks pass for each separate state you visit.

State Parks include State Forests, State Historic Parks, and State Beaches, and we can just go ahead and lump County Parks and similar in this category as well.

Valley of Fire State Park, NV

BLM Land

BLM Land is one of the most confusing concepts for most people. BLM Land is not run by the National Park Service, or the Department of Agriculture, but is instead run by a completely different sector of the United States Federal Government—the Bureau of Land Management.

BLM Land is mostly for camping, rather than other types of recreation. While BLM Land does have developed campgrounds, it’s most often referred to when speaking about dispersed camping. Just like National Forest developed campgrounds, BLM Land developed sites do usually have a fee, and are usually first come first served. Dispersed sites can be found on the sides of secondary (dirt) roads, and are usually unmarked.

Parked on BLM Land in Alabama Hills, CA

Disclaimer: Dispersed camping in both National Forests and on BLM Land is not for everyone. While “free” might sound enticing, these spots have no facilities, no water, and no bathrooms. You must properly dispose of waste (trash and… you know), and Leave No Trace whenever using these sites.

LEARN LNT PRINCIPLES HERE

While public land is everywhere, it is a concept that usually confuses people. Not all public land is the same, and it’s important to know the difference before you go out and use any of it. But the main thing to remember, as with all public land, it’s important to be respectful. Do some extra research on specific destinations prior to visiting, and leave sites the way you found them. Safe travels!

---

Looking to plan a road trip that takes you to public land sites in the US? My 3 month, 48 state road trip route is now available in the SHOP!

Vanlife During COVID-19

The coronavirus has completely turned the world as we know it upside down. I first heard about it when I flew back from Laos in January, and since then, I’ve moved into my new rig (my 1997 Dodge Ram conversion van) full time. Traveling full time since June has been a blessing, but as the COVID crisis continues to escalate in the US, it’s left me wondering: what about us?

Vanlifers and full time road-dwellers are growing in population, and while many people aren’t hitting the road right now due to the virus, there are quite a few of us still on the road, living full time in our vehicles. These stay at home orders are necessary, but they fail to include people who don’t have a solid home base, and who, instead, travel in their homes.

Working from home

For vanlifers, public land is a necessity. We do not just use it for recreation, outdoor sports, or even “camping.” We rely on public lands to be able to live in our homes when we have no other options (and of course, sometimes, for fun). It was expected that the National Parks would shut down, and it was expected that developed campgrounds would slowly close their gates to stop weekend warriors, snowbirds, and other people trying to vacation away from the virus. But lately, BLM and Forest land has been threatening closures too, and for those of us who live on the road, I have to ask the question: where are we supposed to go?

My van, in Alabama Hills, CA

Jared (@jaredinthevan) and I are lucky, in that we are still in the same state that my family lives in, so if worst came to absolute worst, it wouldn’t be impossible for us to turn around, and head back south, and be safe. But the fact is, our vans are our homes, and we want to be able to stay in our homes just like everyone else. So, in the event that all public land closes, many people will be facing a huge dilemma.

While stealth camping in cities is usually an option, in the attempt to avoid human contact, cities are out of the question, and we’d like to avoid small towns so that we don’t risk spreading the virus to gateway communities. Ideally, we’d like to continue self-isolation on BLM land where we can have little to no human interaction whatsoever.

Mine and Jared’s vans, isolated on public land

I’ve noticed quite a bit of insensitivity to this matter recently. People who do not follow me are commenting on my posts telling me to stop using public land for “recreation.” People are making snap judgements of full time vanlifers, telling them to go home when they might not have a place to rely on. I personally would prefer to not reach the worst case scenario of going to my parents’ house because I don’t want to risk exposing my family (especially as I have a brother who falls into the vulnerable category), and I don’t want to take their resources either, especially since toilet paper in the cities is a completely extinct species.

It’s important to practice compassion in this time, and that includes for people who live alternative lifestyles. Everybody’s lives just got turned upside down—let’s support each other, and help people living on the road quarantine safely, instead of making life harder for a unique group of people.

-HWS

Resources For Full Time Vanlifers

If you are on the road and need a place to stay, there are still open public lands, but check on the BLM website first before heading out.

iOverlander users have mentioned COVID in a couple of their reviews, so keep an eye out for that!

There is also an amazing list of people with extra land in the US who are willing to host vanlifers who need a place to stay. You can find that list HERE!

National Parks and National Emergencies

Visiting Death Valley During COVID-19

It was only a matter of time before I had to start addressing COVID-19 on here. As a travel blog that specializes in adventure travel, the world has felt a little weird lately. People can’t go outside, trails are closing, and only a few National Parks remain open. While certain small and high traffic parks have closed, such as Yosemite, Rocky Mountain, and White Sands, some do remain open with modifications.

I am currently living on the road full time. What this means is that I carry my house with me, like a snail, and have been isolated on public land for the past almost-week. While California does have a “shelter in place” order, it was stated that driving no more than an hour to spend time outside is okay, so since the public land I’m calling home was one hour from Death Valley National Park, I wanted to take the opportunity to go in, see the park for the first time, and address how the world has had to make modifications due to this global pandemic.

Golden Canyon Trail

Currently, all National Parks are free to enter. Please keep in mind that National Parks are different from National Forests, which are run by the USDA, rather than the NPS. Largely, National Parks are not staffed right now. Visitor Centers are closed nationwide and bathrooms, campgrounds, and other facilities like parking lots that need to be maintained are locked. While Death Valley remained open, it felt like a very different, almost eerie experience to visit during this time. With only one ranger sighting throughout the entire park, multiple road closures, and 40MPH wind gusts, visiting a National Park during a National Emergency was an adventure to remember.

Please note: it is inadvisable to travel to National Parks during the COVID outbreak. I live full time on the road, mostly on BLM land, where I am able to isolate. I did not travel to go on a vacation in the National Park. This is my lifestyle, and I am treating it no differently than if I was in a house driving an hour to hike a local trail.

Zabriskie Point

About Death Valley:

Death Valley is the largest National Park in the lower 48, and spans across both California and Nevada. It is most commonly accessed through the west, and we entered through Lone Pine, CA, which is where we are camped. Death Valley is a bit of a mismatched park. It has a little bit of everything, from mountains to desert, and each of its main attractions don’t really feel like they should fit together. From sand dunes to the lowest elevation in the United States at the Badwater Basin Salt Flats, Death Valley is a unique park that should be added to your list for future trips.

Mesquite Flat Sand Dunes

Restrictions in the National Park:

While Death Valley remains open at the time of the publication of this piece, there were restrictions within the park. Most visitor centers nationwide are closed right now, as are all public restrooms, lodging/camping, and pay stations. In Death Valley specifically, we were surprised to see that Panamint Springs was open, meaning we could get gas on our way into and out of the park. All parking lots were barricaded, so street parking was our only option for the sites that were open. There were also unexpected road closures, which caused for some disappointment as we tried to access Artists Palette, Dante’s View, Natural Arch, and Devils Golfcourse.

Badwater Basin Salt Flats

What was accessible?

Despite the restrictions, quite a lot was still accessible, and due to the lack of visitors, it was completely possible to still be isolated while in the park. We did not come into contact with any other people, and as avid hikers and outdoorsy humans, we always leave no trace, and that includes the spread of COVID (hands were washed often and we were careful to only touch the natural features of the park).

We were able to access the Mesquite Flat Sand Dunes, Badwater Basin Salt Flats, Golden Canyon trail, Ubehebe Crater, and Zabriskie Point, so we felt like we got a decent overview of the park, even though we had less than 12 hours there altogether.

Mesquite Flat Sand Dunes

The thing is, this trip to a National Park was incredibly different from any other National Park trip I’ve taken in the past. While this was my 35th park, it didn’t feel quite the same without a trip to the visitor center, open roads, and maps to collect. But the thing is, although we visited out of convenience and a need to get outside during this self-isolation, the park isn’t going anywhere. I can always go back and experience it in full. It’s time to let mother Earth heal first, and then the adventure can continue.

-HWS

Where My Travel Bug Was Born

An Ode to Vasquez Rocks

All travelers have to start somewhere. For me, it was in a county park that now feels so small, but holds so many memories. As soon as I was old enough, my parents started taking me to Vasquez Rocks County Park in Agua Dulce, California on a regular basis. My dad had come here as a kid as well, and if I have kids, and live in California, you can guarantee they’ll be climbing the same rocks.

My younger years at Vasquez were filled with nearly empty picnic spots, eating peanut butter sandwiches and tortilla chips on the rocks, and hunting for petroglyphs. Vasquez is a special place, and as much as it changes nearly every time I visit, the rocks are always the same, and the ravens still crow, and the tree we used to park next to still stands.

The Main Vasquez

Vasquez Rocks is quite famous. You’ve likely seen its towering “main Vasquez” in commercials, or perhaps an episode of Star Trek, and the Pacific Crest Trail passes right through the park. But these aren’t the reasons it has a special place in my heart.

Vasquez Rocks for me represents the seeds of exploration. I associate its sandstone rock forms with my Peter Pan days of playing pretend and going on adventures that seemed big at the time. It was where I took my first hikes, scrambled my first rocks, and got my first few scraped knees. And now that I’m older, and the adventures have gotten bigger, I find myself reminiscing on those days more than ever, and have found myself returning to the park more often, making new memories.

Me as a young child, learning to rock scramble

I’ve since discovered new trails at Vasquez Rocks, and new parts of the park that I hadn’t paid much attention to as a kid. I found out that the park is dog friendly, and took my family’s dog, Josey there when we visited for my 21st birthday forever ago. Now, I’ve spent time studying the rocks with Jared (@jaredinthevan) as bouldering and climbing started to peak my interest.

The sandstone rocks of Vasquez

We all have our safe spaces, and for me right now, those spaces are outside. It’s never a bad thing to revisit some childhood memories, either by physically going to the place, or through photographs (or both). Vasquez Rocks for me is a place that will always be there, no matter how much its changed over the years, and in times like these, it’s important to remember what made you the person you are today, to stay grounded, to not lose hope.

-HWS

How to Have an Epic Adventure in Your Hometown

With every other post on social media being about the coronavirus right now, it’s easy to feel anxious about traveling and exploring new places, especially if your usual mode of transportation is an airplane. For those of us with the travel bug (or even those with just the springtime itch to travel), this time can be one of anxiety, frustration, and a feeling of being stuck. The thing is, you don’t have to go far to have an epic adventure, and likely, there are places not to far from where you live that you haven’t discovered yet. Having a “stay-cation” might just be the best way to fuel that adventure craving without getting on an airplane, and this is the best way to do it.

El Matador Beach, CA

Realize that anything can be an adventure

You don’t have to be new to a city to explore it. One of the most productive things I’ve done since I started traveling is realize that I don’t know everything about my hometown. It’s super easy to assume you have nothing left to see in or around your hometown, but the truth is, there are always hidden gems that you don’t know about yet. Check to see if there are any hiking trails you haven’t done before, or parks you haven’t been to. Museums are always changing out their exhibits, and restaurants always have new specials to try. Even something as small as going to a new ice cream shop can be an adventure if you approach it with the right mindset.

Visit a local state park! Lake Anita State Park, IA

Make a list of the things you GENUINELY love doing when you travel

When you’re on the go exploring new cities far from home, what is it that you always make sure you do? For example, some of my friends enjoy checking out a coffee shop right when they arrive in a new place. For cities, I like to explore the art scene and go to art museums. When I visit natural places, I like to learn about the geology and wildlife in the place I’m visiting and then go on a hike. When you realize what makes your passion for travel shine when you’re far from home, you’ll be able to figure out what you might love doing in your hometown.

I love being outdoors when I travel, but sometimes just a visit to a city park will suffice. Mount Tabor Park, OR

If you’re worried about cities, stick to the outdoors

This one simply has to do with the fears of getting sick that are circulating through social media. Not only is exploring nature incredibly good for your health (exercise and fresh air), but it will get you out of those dirty cities where germs are spread. There are tons of National and State Parks all over the world (yes, there are National Parks almost everywhere), so go hit your local one and appreciate the beauty of nature.

If you’re in the US, National Parks have different categories. Visit a National Historic Site, National Recreation Area, or National Monument. Each type offers a little something different, so if you’re not that into hiking, you’ll still be able to find something fun to do in your local NPS sites.

National Parks aren’t just for the outdoor enthusiast! Visit historic sites like Gettysburg National Military Park

Take a day trip

Normally, I’d say take a road trip, but since most people don’t live out of their vehicles, you’d need to stay in hotels, and frankly, I don’t think a lot of people are doing that during this moment in history. So, my best advice instead is to take day trips. Choose a place that’s only an hour or two away from your hometown, and make a point to go there and explore for a day. Two hours is plenty of time to get back in time to sleep in your own bed, but you won’t find yourself lacking in time spent at your destination. Of course, National Parks are great for day trips, but so are beaches, lakes, and even smaller cities, depending on what you’re interested in or what you feel comfortable doing.

Go to somewhere close by to where you are or where you live, such as your local National Park. Indiana Dunes National Park, IN

If you’re itching to explore, this strange point in time might be hitting you a little extra hard, but the truth is, there’s adventure in the everyday, even if that everyday is spent in your hometown. There are likely tons of places you haven’t explored right near where you live, so branch out, visit a local state park, and make anything an adventure.

What I Packed for One Week in The Cascades

This past week, I went on a far different trip than what I’d normally plan for myself. I’d been thinking about getting my Wilderness First Aid certification for a while, and when I got an opportunity to do so with my favorite volunteer group, GIVE Volunteers, I jumped at the chance. This wasn’t just going to be a two-day, 16-hour WFA course, we’d also be learning outdoor leadership, international guide skills, and risk management. The entire program lasted one week and took place in the North Cascades of Washington during the last months of the Pacific North West’s deep winter. Since it was such a unique program, I figured it would be most useful to you, as readers, to know what I packed for this environment.

(This post may contain affiliate links)

Cascade backcountry

Outdoor Essentials

As this was a wilderness education course, we were required to bring a sleeping bag and other types of outdoor gear, as well as the expected gear. Half of my big 65L bag was taken up by my favorite zero degree sleeping bag from Madera Outdoor. As we didn’t know how effective the heat in our lodging would be, it was essential to pack for the worst, just in case.

Other outdoor gear that I’m so glad I brought along included my Merrell Moab hiking shoes, since they’re already broken in and fully waterproof. The best socks for this excursion actually ended up being my hiking socks, so make sure you bring a few pairs of those as well if you’re heading to Washington’s mountains in the snow season. A day pack is also essential for staying outside for long periods of time! Other than that, most of our outdoor gear was provided. If you’re not going to the Cascades with a tour group, though, I’d suggest investing in either microspikes or snowshoes for hiking, as well as trekking poles—I wouldn’t have made it through the week without them!

The woods by our lodge in the Cascade Mountains

Cold Weather Essentials

It was between 20 and 40 degrees pretty much the entire week, so layers were key. As we learned in our WFA course, “be bold, start cold!” which means starting with a base layer and adding layers as you get colder from being outside, since exertion will warm you up quick! I brought a few base layer shirts, one fleece, one sweatshirt, and my ski coat. As for bottoms, I had leggings as a base layer, and then on really cold days, added (second hand) wool ski pants. My outer layer for snow was always a goretex shield. It’s also important to always carry extra socks in case yours get wet! It’s also essential to make sure you have waterproof gloves (for making snowballs, obviously). Two other things I wouldn’t have done this week without were my Buff and a warm beanie.

In terms of non-clothes, bringing an extra blanket was a great decision for sleeping in a cabin in the woods in the middle of the Cascades in winter!

Waterfall in Cascade backcountry

Overall, I was able to fit all of this gear and a few more non-essentials (laptop, book, snacks, etc…) in one 65L backpacking bag and one 22L daypack. The truth is, the cold allows you to re-wear so many of your clothes, so you don’t need to worry about packing an entirely fresh outfit for everyday, especially if you’re visiting the Cascades to spend time outside. The Cascades are absolutely beautiful, yet might feel a bit overwhelming to visit in the winter. But don’t avoid it, embrace the cold—you’ll be met with some of the most beautiful and authentic nature you’ve ever seen.

If you are interested in doing a program with GIVE Volunteers, make sure you put me (Halle Homel) down as a reference, and email or message me via my contact page with any questions you may have!

The Other Side of the Planet

Finding Home in Ban Sop Chem

“I was never not coming here. This was never not going to happen.” -Eat Pray Love

From the moment I landed in Laos, surrounded by mountains and green, something in my soul felt like it had slipped perfectly into place. Back before I started traveling, I spent a lot of time struggling with the meaning of my life and what I was doing. I didn’t think that what I was currently doing had the power to make the impact I wanted it to. So, I went searching, and I found myself in Laos, a country I’d never heard of before signing up to go.

Both times on the boats, when we were arriving in and leaving Sop Chem, I cried. I expected to upon leaving—I hate goodbyes, I always try to frame them as a “see you later,” and this time around I really hoped it was true because the moment we arrived, no, before we arrived, when we were simply traveling down the Nam Ou River with mountains as tall as Montana’s glaciers casting shadows on the water and our boat and the trees, I suddenly felt a whisper of “oh, this is why.”

View from the restaurant in Sop Chem

Why I came here, why I didn’t feel like what I was working on before had much purpose, why I was put on this planet. I was supposed to do something bigger. I arrived as a volunteer, and I left knowing I needed to come back.

I spent the week with the locals, getting to know them by name and spending more time with them than I would ever spend with my neighbors back in California. We were able to connect without language. I played games with children who just wanted to learn from us, I made emotional connections with the village’s women, I tried their food, and stayed in their homes. I pet their dogs, and ate lunch with views of their river, a river that would always symbolize the act of arriving here.

Working with the children was one of the most fulfilling moments for me. I arrived in Southeast Asia expecting to put most of my energy into permaculture—it was sustainability that brought me out there in the first place. But the truth is, the connections with the people is what made me want to stay. In Laos, I worked with the young boys to teach them English. I picked them because I have a little brother, and I knew most people would want to work with the girls anyway, and the boys deserved that attention and love too. I knew they’d be a handful, but sometimes mischief is fun, and it turns out, my favorite students were the troublemakers.

Some of my students, playing in the river

Of course, I loved all of them, and I’m incredibly proud of the progress they made just in the time I was with them, but the ones whose names I’ll forever remember are Khan and Leek, to the older boys (about 8 or 9) who came to the intermediate class to learn English on their last 3 days of winter break. They were mischievous, but that meant they were smart. They didn’t have to be there—they showed up because they wanted to. They came and went as they pleased, but still enjoyed a good coloring book and sticker at the end of the day. Khan can give a high five that will knock your soul straight out of your body. Leek is soft at heart, I can tell, but he likes showing off—being the center of attention.

At the end of the school day, the boys disappeared, like children of the jungle and the mountains, dispersing into the hiking trails and roads and trees, while the girls stick around to play games. Phun is the girl who always picked me as her partner for games, and later in the week, for dancing. She’s about 7 years old and she was never my student. She just learned my name when her friend Noona asked. I wanted to ask her why she always picked me, but she doesn’t know enough English and I don’t know enough Lao and “why” is a hard question to answer in any language, so I’ll just go with the idea that she either liked my energy or my pants. I hope that one day I can ask her, but the truth is, even when I do eventually find my way back there, the odds are, she probably won’t remember me the way Noona would, who remembers every volunteer from the past three years. They’re best friends, those girls, and I wish I could have given them so much more.

After the Baci Ceremony

I sat, on one of my last days in Sop Chem, hanging in my hammock in the restaurant where we always ate our meals, looking out over the Nam Ou River for one of the last times until next time (whenever that may be). My legs were bug bitten and bruised and my Teva tan was back and my soul felt so at peace there that the thought of leaving and never coming back broke my heart. I’d never wanted to stay somewhere longer than I wanted to stay there. I didn’t feel like I was on the other side of the planet from home. It felt like my soul had always been trying to find this place.

My last morning in Sop Chem also happened to be my birthday. The last night of my year had been spent dancing to an hour long remix of songs from my childhood under the stars, barefoot, in the center of a village in the center of mountains with Baci chords tied around my wrists for good luck. I felt so full, that day, even knowing that the morning meant leaving, and as we did, back on the boats that brought us to our new home in Ban Sop Chem in the first place, it didn’t feel like the people on the shore of the river were saying goodbye, not forever, at least, not for me.

Three Must-Visit Spots in Laos

I recently returned from Southeast Asia, where I volunteered for a month in Thailand and Laos with GIVE Volunteers. It’s no question that, of the two countries, Laos made the bigger impact on me as a person, a traveler, and a global citizen. Laos is an incredibly special country, and the truth is, two years ago, like many of you, I had no idea it even existed.

Laos is a small, landlocked country just north of Thailand. It borders four other countries as well: China, Vietnam, Myanmar, and Cambodia. It’s known for its mountains, Buddhist culture, and waterfalls.

During our time in Laos, we visited three major spots (IE: one city, one backpacking village, and one remote village). This is the best journey through this beautiful country that will show you the best of Laos, from Luang Prabang to Sop Chem.

View from the Nam Ou River

Luang Prabang City

Not to be confused with Luang Prabang Province, Luang Prabang City is the first part of Laos I got to experience. It’s a clean city with plenty of hostels (we stayed at Mao Pha Sohk Guesthouse), vans available as public transport, markets, and culture.

Luang Prabang is gorgeous, even for a city, and is home to a fantastic array of restaurants (Coconut Restaurant is a crowd favorite), as well as a huge night market that happens daily, starting at 5pm (Laos time). Our first day started with participating in the Alms ceremony, where we gave rice to monks as they made their way to temple. This is definitely something to experience, even though it starts at 5 am daily.

Another must-see in Luang Prabang is Tat Kuang Si National Park. This National Park is home to Kuang Si Falls, the famous waterfalls that are known as being one of the most beautiful places in the world, and the Free the Bears Moon Bear Sanctuary (who accept donations HERE). Both spots are incredibly important to witness for that perfect balance of cultural understanding and natural beauty.

The last must-see in Luang Prabang is the UXO museum. The UXO museum stands for the fact that Laos is the most bombed country and the most affected by the Vietnam War. Still, there is unexploded ordinance scattered throughout the country. True responsible tourism is understanding the culture, and there is no such thing as understanding Lao culture without talking about UXO.

View from Mao Pha Sohk Guesthouse at sunrise

Ban Sop Chem

Sop Chem is easily one of my favorite places on Earth. Sop Chem is a remote weaving village located directly on the Nam Ou River, and the best way to access it is by boat.

Sop Chem thrives on tourism. Most tourists just come for a day trip from Nong Kiaw, but there is a hostel in Sop Chem if you’d like to stay the night and experience this remote village for the night.

Here, we volunteered at the local school and permaculture plot, but also participated in plenty of cultural activities that tourists would also be able to experience, such as shopping for hand-woven fabrics, hiking to the Power China dam site, and exploring Tam Lom, a cave where the villagers of Sop Chem hid during the war (but please don’t go without a guide).

The people of Sop Chem are some of the most welcoming I’ve ever met, so stay a while if you can, pet the dogs, and play cards with the local kids—this is an experience like no other.

Ban Sop Chem

Nong Kiaw

Nong Kiaw was the backpacker village we stayed in on our way back to Luang Prabang from Sop Chem where we stayed in the Sunrise Hostel, and spent my birthday adventuring. There is so much nature to experience in Laos, and a lot of those beautiful places are right in Nong Kiaw.

Two of the most notable are the Pha Thok Cave and Pha Deang Peak hike. The Pha Thok Cave is another combination of nature and culture, as it gives you another perspective into the history of the country during wartime. Pha Deang Peak is a strenuous, approximately 6 mile hike that gains 3,000 feet in elevation from bottom to top. This is a genuine mountain summit hike, but it comes bearing some of the best views in the country.

View from Pha Deang Peak, Nong Kiaw

Laos is truly one of the most beautiful places I’ve ever been. It’s known for village communities, mountains, and rivers, and the culture is like no other. I hear a lot of talk about visiting Southeast Asia, and Laos should be on everyone’s list, if not for the beauty, then for the culture.

---

Laos (other than Sop Chem, which is a good break from being on the grid) is incredibly backpacker and digital nomad friendly. Learn how to work and make money online with Wired Creatives HERE!

The Truth About Elephant Tourism

Elephant tourism is a hot topic in travel writing right now: what’s considered ethical, what’s not, and the distancing from elephant rides as a tourist attraction. But the problem is, a lot of what you’ll read about elephant tourism comes from the west, and it comes from people who haven’t experienced the truth behind the signs claiming that a sanctuary is ethical.

During my time in Thailand, I got the chance to speak with Eddie, a Mahout who’s worked with elephants his entire life in the remote jungles of Southeast Asia, and amongst all the funny questions the group had about what elephants eat or how often they poop, we got down to the nitty gritty about elephant tourism.

The truth is, even the remote jungles that Eddie works in with his elephant, are close to villages. The jungle sits adjacent to the village of Ba Kao Lam, where there is a school, and small farms that are attached to people’s homes. There isn’t really enough space for elephants left, because, let’s face it, elephants are enormous animals.

Me and Mai Boon Si in Ba Kao Lam, Thailand

When people think about going to see elephants in Southeast Asia, their main requirement is that the sanctuary uses no chains. So many sanctuaries claim this, and keep their elephants out of chains to attract tourists, but the truth is, we don’t know what happens behind closed doors. We don’t know that these elephants are free roaming, and we have no way of knowing whether the elephants are chained up or kept in cages at night.

So, one of the first things I learned about how the Mahouts care for their elephants surprised me: they use chains for the safety of their elephants. Because their elephants are completely free roaming, they have the ability to walk an easy ten miles to the nearest village while the Mahouts are sleeping. Elephants are huge creatures, and this means they never, ever stop eating. When they reach a village, they have the tendency to decimate farms, eat a family’s supply of food, and destroy property. This puts them in more danger than they’re in in the wild—farmers can get angry and kill or injure the elephant before the Mahouts can track them to bring them back to safety in the jungles.

Feeding bananas to elephants in Ba Kao Lam, Thailand

The chains these elephants wear are not tied to anything—they’re able to go wherever they want. But the chains do slow them down. This means that they likely won’t make it to the villages in a single night, which keeps them safe from people trying to protect their farms. The chains also help the Mahouts to track their elephants because they’re able to recognize the pattern the chain makes on the ground, which helps them to find the elephants quickly for health checks and feeding (elephants love bananas).

We had the chance to go trekking with the Mahouts for their elephants, and while it can normally take up to 3 hours to track them, we found them in 8 minutes, just across the stream. They seemed happy to see their Mahouts, as they each have a special bond with their animal, and were even more happy to see us because these 2 elephants—Mai Boon Yen and Mai Boon Si, two sisters and best friends—know that tour groups mean bananas.

We then trekked with the elephants down to the nearby river to give them a bath and feed them their favorite food, where the Mahouts did take off the chains, and I felt, even though I wasn’t sure about the chains at first, that this was truly the best way to make sure that they’re safe, and still kept wild.

Walking the elephants to the river for banana time

So, the moral of the story is, you don’t know that what people tell you is ethical or the truth, and it’s truly best to learn from an expert before forming your own opinion. Give is not the only group that is able to trek with the Mahouts, so definitely look into finding a group to take you on a trek if you’re planning a trip to Thailand. It’s the only way to know for sure that the elephants are taken care of properly.

What It's Really Like to Volunteer Overseas

The Truth About Voluntourism

Lately, I’ve seen a lot of talk about voluntourism online, and the majority of it is, unfortunately, negative. There is a huge stigma being created by the western online community telling people not to volunteer overseas for a number of reasons, but the truth is, volunteering overseas is the most effective way to travel as a conscious consumer and practice true responsible tourism.

I recently had the chance to volunteer with GIVE Volunteers in the Southeast Asian countries of Thailand and Laos. In both countries, I worked on sustainability, permaculture, and English education projects with locals, and experienced what life in these countries is like. Through my work, I’ve gained global citizenship through bringing together people who never would’ve met in an effort to create a better and more connected world, and I’ve become so close to the cultures of these countries that the remote Lao village of Sop Chem started to feel like home.

This is the truth about voluntourism, from someone who has actually done it, been to the countries, and seen the strife and kindness of their people firsthand.

Mueang Khong, Thailand

What is GIVE?

GIVE stands for Growth International Volunteer Excursions. I first learned about GIVE when a recruiter named John came into my Economics class during my senior year at my university. He handed out probably 500 flyers just to that one class, but when I showed up to the info session, only about 10 people sat in the room. Him and my now good friend, Jess told us about the program and its goals to “inspire growth, empower global citizens, and ignite sustainable change worldwide.” I had my heart already set on Thailand, but Jess convinced me to also do the Laos program, even though I hadn’t even heard of the country prior to receiving that flyer. Jess ended up being my guide in Laos, and the trip inspired me to continue creating change with my life. I realized that what I do matters, and can have a larger impact than what I was doing back at home, and because of that, I can genuinely say that GIVE changed my life, and I’ll get to how in the following sections.

(If you sign up for a GIVE trip, make sure you put me, Halle Homel, down as a reference!)

I decided that this trip was a good fit for me because, as a full time traveler, I’m always looking for ways to incorporate as much responsible tourism as I can, and volunteering overseas truly is real responsible tourism. Responsible tourism is more than just Leave No Trace, being a conscious consumer, and even working in your destination to create change. In my eyes, responsible tourism combines all of these things with cultural immersion, so that you as a traveler, have the education to truly understand the place you’re visiting through the eyes of its citizens, which will allow you to really be able to help in the way that they need. GIVE is incredibly good at communicating with the locals in the villages we worked in (Mueang Khong, Thailand and Sop Chem, Laos), and finding out exactly what they needed help with, which included everything from help composting the permaculture plots in Thailand to teaching the children of Sop Chem how to say “tomato” or ask for help in English.

Sop Chem, Laos

How sustainable is it, really?

We all know that flying isn’t the most sustainable form of travel, but giving back to the country you’re visiting is a great way to offset that carbon footprint. What I loved about this trip was that everything we did was based around sustainability, and every excursion wasn’t simply an excursion with a pretty view—each one had an educational purpose that would open our eyes to the culture a little bit more (for example, going caving where Sop Chem villagers hid during the Vietnam War, or trekking for elephants with their mahouts to learn about responsible elephant tourism). But on top of our excursions being beneficial to us and the country, we were working specifically on a lot of sustainability projects.

Permaculture stands for Permanent Culture and Permanent Agriculture, meaning the entire point behind permaculture is to create long lasting agriculture that can help a society move forward in its development through creating independence. On top of that though, our permaculture projects involved caring for plants (hello oxygen), and building a house out of earth bricks (made from mud, sand, and rice). These projects are so good for the planet, and will help move these communities further down the path to development as time goes on.

We also worked on projects with FORRU, a forest restoration group in Thailand, to make sure that new trees were able to grow, and Free the Bears, an animal sanctuary in Tat Kuang Si National Park in Laos. Free the Bears rehabilitates moon bears rescued from the illegal wildlife trade, often from malnutrition, and keeps them safe from hunters. Without both of these groups, our environment might be suffering quite a bit because moon bears are a keystone species, and, well, we know we need more trees.

One of our permaculture plots in Mueang Khong, Thailand

Traveling as a Local

I see a lot nowadays about traveling as a local, and when you volunteer overseas, you’ll have the chance to truly do so. Because your purpose for being in the country is to help out communities that need you, you’ll be living in those communities while you’re there, which will let you get acquainted with the locals on a more intimate level. In Sop Chem specifically, we spent an entire week off the grid, living in the local hostel and becoming fast friends with the locals. We learned how to weave and make rice wine from the people in the village, did a homestay for one night, taught the local children and women English so that they would have more job opportunities as adults, and hung out with the local puppy, a good girl named Bagel. We learned plenty of words in Lao too, and by the end, found it hard to break our habit of saying “Sabaidee!” instead of “hello.”

Local children in Sop Chem playing by the Nam Ou River

How much adventure is there in a volunteer trip?

I know many people travel for site seeing, not to work, or sleep in a local’s home, but the thing about GIVE is that you get a little bit of both. You’ll get that true cultural immersion, but you’ll also get plenty of opportunities for site seeing, as well as excursions you wouldn’t get as just a backpacker since you’ll already be in more remote places.

In Thailand, we got to experience the Buddhist temples, caving, waking up for sunrise, learning to make Pad Thai, weaving with the Karen Tribe, and basket making with the Lasu Tribe, all before building our own bamboo rafts to take down the river from the village of Ba Ko Lam to Pong Nyen, with an elephant trek in between.

In Laos, there was definitely more time to chill in the hammocks or walk down to the river, but we also went caving twice, hiking multiple times (once to the Power China dam being built in Sop Chem and once to Pha Deng Peak in Nong Kiaw), to Kuang Si Falls in Tat Kuang Si National Park, and learned local skills from the people of Sop Chem. We also participated in the morning Alms Ceremony and learned to meditate from a Buddhist monk (and friend of one of our guides).

Me and Mai Boon Si, one of our two elephant friends in Ba Kao Lam, Thailand. Stay tuned for a whole piece on elephant tourism coming soon.

What about the children?

Okay, if you’ve read literally anything about voluntourism prior to this, you’re probably yelling at me for volunteering with children at all overseas. Many people believe that it is cruel to give them our attention and then leave (I do plan on returning to Sop Chem though). But the truth is, these kids rely on us. We didn’t get to work much on the education projects in Thailand due to them being on winter break, so I’m going to talk mostly about Laos here. In Sop Chem, there is no English education program in the school, and yet a Lao person who speaks English is more likely to get a higher paying job as an adult. Sop Chem only has a primary school, and their teacher does not get paid. Their English classes are only taught by volunteers, and the classes are not mandatory, so the children choose to be there, to better their education. Without volunteers, they wouldn’t even have that choice. When the students show up enough, they earn points that GIVE keeps track of so that some children can earn scholarships for secondary education (high school), as they have to go to a neighboring village and live in the dorms to do so. The families of Sop Chem make far less than the national average (only about $1000 USD per year. You can support the women of Sop Chem HERE), so the opportunities of these children are minimal.

Volunteers help to make those dreams a reality, and for some children, like a girl named Noona who liked to hang out and play cards with me in the restaurant where we ate our meals, that education would allow them to become the person they dream of being. For Noona, she remembers every single volunteer by name from the past three years. She is about 7 years old, and speaks some of the best English in the village. If GIVE hadn’t given her that opportunity, she might never realize her potential, and might not have the chance to continue onto secondary school.

The mountains of Sop Chem, Laos. Good vibes to another beautiful day in paradise.

How can voluntourism change your life?

I said earlier in this piece that volunteering overseas changed my life, so before I finish up, I just want to touch on that a little. It’s so easy to only travel comfortably, but that’s never quite been my speed. I easily could’ve just booked a tour around Southeast Asia during this time, instead of spending the majority of my winter sweating in the dry-season humidity building earth bricks and carrying bags of corn husks. The thing is, in college, I had this huge need to feel like I was doing something purposeful with my life, and so I wanted to figure out a way to combine travel with sustainability. Once I actually got to Laos, though, after already having been through the entire Thailand trip, there was a larger feeling of purpose that came to me that was only perpetuated by the connections I made with the villagers.

When I sat learning how to weave from my new Lao friend named Phan, I realized how possible it is to simply be human through interacting without language. We knew exactly what each other meant and felt, without knowing more than a few words in each other’s tongue, and that moment kind of defines global citizenship to me. We are all on team human.

But overall, my trip to this country I’d never heard of opened my eyes to everything that is possible in our world. I saw myself providing education opportunities to more children in the future, helping Free the Bears provide better care for wildlife, and helping to expand the permaculture plot more in future years. There is so much impact you can make in your life—make sure some of it is to help others.

Pong Nyen, a remote village in Thailand, and the childhood home of two of our Thai guides

If you are interested in volunteering with GIVE and have any questions, feel free to email me or comment below. When you sign up, make sure you put me down as a reference!

More posts coming soon about elephant tourism, where we went in Luang Prabang province in Laos, and responsible tourism/global citizenship.