national parks

10 Things to Know Before Visiting Laos

When I hear people planning trips to Southeast Asia, they usually list Thailand, Bali, Cambodia, and Vietnam on their list. But the truth is, there is no country like Laos. When I first visited Southeast Asia, I included two countries in my itinerary: Thailand and Laos, and I expected to fall in love with Thailand, with Laos being just another cool place to say I’ve been, but the opposite ended up being true. I fell head over heels for this unique landlocked country in a way I never expected to. So, if this post doesn’t convince you to go to Laos, I don’t know what will. And if it does, here are the 10 things you should know before going.

Disclaimer: this post may contain affiliate links

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So… where is Laos?

Laos is a landlocked Southeast Asian country that shares borders with five other countries: Thailand, Vietnam, China, Myanmar, and Cambodia. It is home to some of the most amazing, lush, green landscapes I’ve ever seen, and is full of flowing rivers, including the famous Mekong. Its capital is Vientiane, ad the official language is Lao (which I’ll get back to later!).

When most people visit Laos, they stick to Luang Prabang City and some surrounding villages in Luang Prabang Province such as the backpacking village of Nong Kiaw.

Restaurant in the remote village of Ban Sop Chem

Restaurant in the remote village of Ban Sop Chem

What currency do they use there?

Laos is a very interesting country when it comes to spending money. Due to the fact that they are a less developed country, many of the vendors and shop owners do not even have card readers. Instead, there are ATMs located throughout the city that are generally safe to use. If you’re nervous about pulling out more cash in this practically cash-only country, pull out enough when you land at the airport from the airport’s ATMs. I personally used them and they are safe.

Laos’ currency is known as the Lao Kip. It’s fairly easy to convert, but of course won’t be exact. About 10,000 Lao Kip is equal to $1.50 USD, so you can pull out $150 USD here and be a millionaire! Things are very cheap in Laos, and you’ll be able to stay at a good hostel for only about 150,000 Kip per night (only about $15 USD). Food is also very cheap, as are souvenirs.

Hand woven fabrics hang outside of homes in Ban Sop Chem, Laos

Hand woven fabrics hang outside of homes in Ban Sop Chem, Laos

Night markets

Speaking of money, something many Southeast Asian countries are famous for are their night markets. Night markets are an incredibly fun way to get to meet some locals, buy local goods, and practice your bartering skills. Yes, bartering skills! The locals known what tourists look like, and they’ll likely try to charge more for their goods than they’re worth, so if you find yourself at the Luang Prabang night market, feel free to do some bartering.

The view from my hostel in Luang Prabang City

The view from my hostel in Luang Prabang City

What religion do they practice in Laos?

Laos is a largely Buddhist country. Nearly everyone there practices Buddhism, and one of my guides when I visited even used to be a Buddhist monk. There are plenty of temples to visit, and you can even look into participating in the morning alms giving ceremony, a daily ritual where patrons will wake up at 5 am to offer rice to the monks who are commuting to temple for the day.

See this ceremony in action in my Youtube video on Laos!

Buddhist temple in Luang Prabang City

Buddhist temple in Luang Prabang City

What should I wear?

Due to this being a Buddhist and communist country, it’s important to recognize that their customs are on the more conservative side. While it’s okay to wear shorts in Luang Prabang City, and even in some backpacking villages like Nong Kiaw, it’s also important to respect the culture. By the end of my trip, I felt uncomfortable wearing anything that showed my knees while walking around town. Generally, to be culturally appropriate, it’s important to cover your knees and shoulders in a way that doesn’t show off your figure (yes, for girls and guys). This is particularly important when it comes to visiting temples and smaller villages like Ban Sop Chem.

Key staples for packing include:

Elephant Pants (which you can purchase at the night market—bring less than you think you need)

T Shirts (bring one more than you think you need)

One sweatshirt (Laos has mountains)

One bathing suit (for the waterfalls!)

Plenty of comfy socks

Sandals you can slip on and off when you enter temples and your hostel

Hiking/walking shoes

Dressed up for the traditional Buddhist Baci Ceremony in Ban Sop Chem

Dressed up for the traditional Buddhist Baci Ceremony in Ban Sop Chem

Where are the waterfalls?

When you google Laos, you’ll likely see endless photos of Tat Kuang Si National Park, a national park just outside of Luang Prabang City known for its bright blue waterfalls. These are known as Kuang Si Falls, and they’re absolutely gorgeous, and definitely worth stopping at, despite how touristy they are. Here, it’s appropriate to wear an American bathing suit, and there are changing rooms available at the falls.

If you’re looking for a way to give back a little during your time in Laos, Tat Kuang Si National Park is also home to Free the Bears Sanctuary, a rescue focusing on Moon and Sun Bear conservation.

Laos is also home to some of the most beautiful natural landscapes in the world, so make sure you branch out and explore a little more than just this most common national park.

Kuang Si Falls in Tat Kuang Si National Park

Kuang Si Falls in Tat Kuang Si National Park

The country has a tough history

Laos is the most heavily bombed country from the Vietnam war. Today, there still exists UXO, or unexploded ordinance in the remote villages of the country. Children are taught from a young age how to recognize UXO and avoid them, and there are bomb squads that are actively clearing the country of UXO. It is an integral part of the country’s history, and one that can’t go overlooked when visiting. For more information, please visit the UXO museum during your time in Laos.

Government

While completely safe to travel in (and safe for solo female travelers), it’s important to note that Laos is a communist country, which means their economy and land ownership work differently than in other countries you may have visited in the past. One of the places you’ll see this most is in the presence of China in Laos. China is currently building a railroad through the country, as well as damns in many of the major rivers. While there are pros to these projects, such as jobs for Lao citizens and better transportation of goods via the railroad, there are also cons including flooding of the rivers and drought in some areas.

The children of Ban Sop Chem

The children of Ban Sop Chem

Key Phrases

It’s always good to enter a country with a few key phrases under your belt so that you can better communicate with the locals. Here are the phrases I found useful during my time in Laos:

Sabaidee: Hello

Khob jai: Thank you

Khob jai lai lai: Thank you very much

Tao dai: how much?

Kor thod: sorry

Sabaidee ton sao: good morning

Sabaidee ton laeng: good evening

Bor pen yang: it’s all good!

Bo me nam nom: no milk (for my vegans!)

Ngam lai: very beautiful

The view from Pha Deang Peak in Nong Kiaw

The view from Pha Deang Peak in Nong Kiaw

All about food

I actually love Lao food. It’s flavorful, and different from that in a lot of other Southeast Asian countries. It kind of reminded me of a mix between Thai, Indian, and Western food. It uses a lot of the same flavors as Thailand, but also uses a lot of potatoes, and much more bread than Thailand! Expect curries, sticky rice, and something my guide called “crack sauce,” which is soaked chilis and garlic in soy sauce. It’s used for dipping sticky rice and it’s amazing! There is also fried rice, noodles, and stir fries galore. If you go to the street market, you’ll find plenty of street food, as well as fruit shakes, which can easily be made vegan.

If you go to any remote villages, expect to take part in some traditions. During my time in the remote village of Sop Chem, we learned to make rice wine and sticky rice, and got to take part in a welcoming tradition, where you take shots of Lao Lao (rice whiskey) for good luck.

If you’re vegan, or plant based, like me, you might be concerned about being able to maintain your plant based diet while traveling, so I just wanted to reassure you that in Asia, it’s fairly easy to be plant based. Often, there is no milk used in food, and in curry, it’s usually coconut milk anyway. In the above section, I did cover how to say “no milk,” but you can rest assured that usually, unless it is a meat dish, it will be vegan as long as there is no fish sauce.

After the Buddhist Baci Ceremony

After the Buddhist Baci Ceremony

Laos is truly one of the most underrated Southeast Asian countries. While it borders a lot of the countries many people love to travel to, it’s often overlooked, but it’s home to some of the most beautiful nature, kindest people, and best food on the continent. It should be on everybody’s list, and considering the fact that they want tourists, there’s no better reason to go and support this beautiful place.

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My Top 3 Wildlife Encounters From the Road

One of the most frequent questions I get about National Parks is “where can I see bears?” Wildlife is one of my favorite parts of travel, and in the US, where I’ve done the majority of my travels in the past couple years, there is so much wildlife to see, nearly everywhere you turn. From bison to bears, from bald eagles to seagulls, every landscape has its iconic animal residents, and I’ve encountered quite a few unique furry, feathered, and scaly friends over the years. These are my top three wildlife encounters, and where you can see some of the best!

Note: Please do not approach wildlife. Always leave 25 yards of distance between you and a wild animal, unless the animal approaches you. Even then, use caution.

Disclaimer: this post may include affiliate links

While not on this list, this one almost made the cut: a deer encounter on a trail in Voyageurs National Park

While not on this list, this one almost made the cut: a deer encounter on a trail in Voyageurs National Park

The Armadillos in Congaree

This is one of my favorite animal encounters I’ve ever had because A) armadillos won’t kill you (unless you lick them—they carry leprosy!) and B) I was with some little cousins of mine and they were completing their first Junior Ranger Program.

In Congaree National Park, South Carolina, there is tons of wildlife to be seen, from snakes, to spiders, to one lone and invasive crocodile. Even if you don’t want to do an extensive hike, you’ll see plenty of unique animals just outside the visitor center on the boardwalk trail. This trip was special because I was looking at everything on the boardwalk from a child’s perspective as I helped my cousins (about 9 and 4 years old) look for animals and plants to check off their Junior Ranger checklist. Toward the end of the boardwalk, we saw quite a few people gathered by the side of the trail, and to our surprise, we noticed 3 armadillos just waddling about! They had gotten really close to the boardwalk, so we were able to safely observe them without disturbing their territory (at Congaree, staying on the boardwalk is key!).

Learn more about Congaree and the other East Coast National Parks HERE!

Want to help animals? Shop ethical apparel and help give back to animal sanctuaries at Wholesome Culture and receive a special Halle’s Wandering Soul discount!

While I wasn’t able to get a picture of the Armadillos, here’s a great reason to visit Congaree. To see a video of them, though, head to my Congaree highlight on my Instagram

While I wasn’t able to get a picture of the Armadillos, here’s a great reason to visit Congaree. To see a video of them, though, head to my Congaree highlight on my Instagram

The Bison in Yellowstone

Yellowstone is ideal for wildlife viewing. Almost nobody visits the park without seeing a bison (or getting caught in a traffic jam—which I’ll explain in a minute). Yellowstone is home to wolves, elk, grizzly bears, bison, and so much more. It truly is the pinnacle of the old American West. If you’re looking to see some incredible wildlife, head out to the park’s Lamar Valley (and if you don’t want to make the trek, don’t worry, you’ll see plenty of animals during your trip).

I only got to spend one night in the park, and stayed at Canyon Campground (which will forever remain one of my favorite campgrounds in the US). On my second day in the area, when I was going to head to Grand Teton National Park, I got up around 6 am, hoping to be on the road before the day’s tourists showed up. I stopped by Artists Point and Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone, and was greeted by one lone bison on the side of the road. This was a cool experience in itself, but I was surprised to turn the corner as I exited the canyon and find a herd of about 20 bison grazing near the road. I stopped to take a picture (from inside my car), and they proceeded to surround me in a classic Yellowstone traffic jam. Talk about morning rush hour! After about five minutes, they dispersed, and the entire time, I was the only one on the road.

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The bison herd in Yellowstone

The bison herd in Yellowstone

The Bear in Yosemite

The other stories in this post are just cool, stunning interactions I had with animals, but this one is the reason I always try to tell tourists, “You don’t want to see a bear.” Yosemite is teeming with wildlife. It’s an incredible park full of towering cliffs and animals around every corner, but it’s important to remember that National Parks are not zoos or amusement parks—when we visit National Parks, we are in another creature’s home.

Yosemite is home to black bears. Black bears are slightly less dangerous than brown bears and grizzly bears, which you’ll find in the Rockies (I have seen two grizzlies though, but they were far away). Black bears are small, like the size of a large dog, but since I was visiting in November, they were on the hunt for food, as they were going to be hibernating soon. Because of this, a ranger came around to each site in Upper Pines campground, where I was staying, to tell us what to do if we did encounter a bear in the middle of the night. You’re supposed to say, “bear bear bear Bear Bear BEAR BEAR,” and keep getting louder to scare them off. Of course, you forget all of that when you’re actually faced with a bear.

It was about 10 degrees that night, and I lay in my dad’s old sleeping bag. I was new to tent camping still, and after this trip, I invested in my own 0 degree bag. After the ranger left, we had all gone through our tents and cars (Yosemite bears can break into cars), and since I had nothing in my tent that would smell like food, I felt fairly safe sleeping in active bear country with only a piece of fabric separating me from the outside world.

When camping in bear country, make sure that everything that smells like food is put away in your bear box, bear canister, or bear bag. You can also string your food up in a tree if backpacking. Some parks are less of a worry than others, and you can keep food in your car, but check with a ranger or camp host first.

Around 4 am, I woke up to snarling. Something huge was sniffing at our bear box, which I was camped maybe 10 feet from. I lay still, and quiet—the opposite of what you’re supposed to do, and I swear I remember hearing this bear walk right by me. Holding my breath, I just hoped she would go away, and after a few more seconds of sniffing at the bear box, she ran off into the woods.

It was dark, so I couldn’t snap a picture of the bear, but here’s a reason to visit Yosemite

It was dark, so I couldn’t snap a picture of the bear, but here’s a reason to visit Yosemite

Wildlife is simply one of the best parts about traveling in the national parks. Every state has such unique animals, and getting to know the nature of each spot is what makes everywhere so special. Check out some of my favorite spots for viewing wildlife below, and start planning your next road trip!

For bison: Badlands National Park, Theodore Roosevelt National Park, Yellowstone National Park, Grand Teton National Park

For bears: Shenandoah National Park, Yosemite National Park, Sequoia National Park, Glacier National Park

For deer: Glacier National Park, Shenandoah National Park, Voyageurs National Park

For lizards and snakes: Joshua Tree National Park, Grand Canyon National Park, Bryce Canyon National Park

For interesting insects: Joshua Tree National Park, Congaree National Park, Hot Springs National Park

For big horned sheep: Glacier National Park

For pronghorns: Badlands National Park, Bryce Canyon National Park

For mountain goats: Glacier National Park

For elk: Yellowstone National Park, Grand Canyon National Park, Redwoods National and State Park

For sea life: Olympic National Park, Redwoods National and State Park

If you’re interested in planning a giant trip around the country that includes most of the parks listed here, check out my ebook, Around the States in 90 Days in the SHOP!

A Complete Guide to Glacier National Park

Glacier National Park in Montana is truly one of those treasures that can’t be missed in the Lower 48. From its sprawling landscapes to its abundant wildlife, there’s nothing not to love about Glacier. It’s truly my favorite place in the entire contiguous United States. For people who haven’t visited, it often tops their National Parks bucket list, and for those who have been, it’s often a destination they’re trying desperately to revisit. Glacier National Park is a special place, and one that should be visited with care, to protect its rapidly changing natural landscape.

Because Glacier is such a large National Park, with multiple sections, I’ve found that it’s a bit intimidating to people who either haven’t been or who aren’t incredibly familiar with the National Parks System. This blog is here to answer your questions, and to be your essential guide as you plan your first trip to the park.

(Disclaimer: This post may contain affiliate links)

The view from the Logan’s Pass Visitor Center area

The view from the Logan’s Pass Visitor Center area

Know Before You Go

First, let’s cover the basics. Glacier National Park is located in northern Montana, on the Canadian border. You can cross into Canada from Glacier easily, to explore the Waterton Lakes area. Glacier is located in the center of multiple small towns, including Babb and Whitefish, and bordered on one side by National Forest. On the east side of the park, you’ll find the Blackfeet Indian Reservation of Montana. Due to the proximity of these towns and the preserve, it is important to enter the park with respect.

To enter Glacier National Park for one week, you will be charged a $35 entrance fee per car, or $25 in the winter, when the Going to the Sun Road is closed. I highly recommend investing in an America the Beautiful Pass or other interagency pass if you plan on visiting more than 3 National Parks in one year.

Dogs are allowed in the park, but are not allowed on most trails. They can visit the park in front country campgrounds, picnic areas, roads, parking areas, and in boats. Dogs must be on a leash no longer than 6 feet, and cannot visit the backcountry, lakeshores, or inside visitor centers. If a road is closed to vehicles due to winter weather, it is considered part of the backcountry.

Along the Hidden Lake Overlook Trail

Along the Hidden Lake Overlook Trail

Wildlife

Glacier is home to some of the most abundant wildlife in the country. This Park is largely wilderness, which makes it the ideal place to spot incredible animals, such as deer, black bears, grizzly bears, mountain goats, big horned sheep, and elk. It is also home to more elusive animals like pikas, bats, lynx, mountain lions, and wolverines. This truly is the ideal place to spot wildlife in their natural habitat, and I was lucky enough to see mountain goats, black bears, grizzlies, deer, and big horned sheep during my visit. It’s important to view wildlife here safely, though, and remember, wildlife is wild!

It is not recommended that you visit the park without someone in your party carrying bear spray, which can be purchased at the visitor centers, and any shops in the park. Bear spray is a one-time use deterrent equivalent to a large canister of pepper spray. It is to be used to defend yourself against a bear (usually a grizzly), in the case of danger. Do not spray a bear who is minding their own business, and do not use bear spray indoors or on a person.

Two deer in my site at Rising Sun Campground

Two deer in my site at Rising Sun Campground

When should I visit?

The only time of year you will be able to experience all of Glacier National Park is in the summer. During the winter, the main roads are closed. Keep in mind that winter in northern Montana can range between late September and late June, and no one knows when the Going to The Sun Road will open for the summer season—it all depends on weather.

The best and most popular month to visit is July, since there is still a considerable amount of snow on the mountains. However, I visited in late August, and there was still plenty of beauty to be seen!

Wildflowers blooming in late August in Glacier National Park, MT

Wildflowers blooming in late August in Glacier National Park, MT

Should I stay in East or West Glacier?

This is one of the most common questions when it comes to planning a trip to Glacier National Park. So, which is better? East or West Glacier?

Glacier National Park is divided into three sections, and two of those sections—East and West Glacier—are connected by the Going to the Sun Road, which I’ll cover later in this post. When it comes to which side to visit, my answer is: visit both, if possible! If not, due to weather or time, I would say East Glacier is home to most of what people picture when they picture visiting Glacier National Park.

St. Mary’s Lake in East Glacier

St. Mary’s Lake in East Glacier

West Glacier is largely forested, and won’t provide you with the views that East Glacier has. However, it is incredibly peaceful, and is a great place to stay if you’re looking for some quiet. It is also home to the only visitor center with legitimate cell service (Agpar Village), so if you need to call home, it might be worth making a stop here. As far as trails in West Glacier, they aren’t quite as impressive as the ones in East Glacier, but they are still worth checking out. The one that should definitely be on your list is Trail of the Cedars, a family friendly short trail that will allow you to get up close and personal with some of the Park’s largest flora.

East Glacier is home to many of the views people want to see during their trip, which is why I suggest heading here if you’re short on time. This is where you’ll find lakes, tall mountains, waterfalls, and views of the valley. You’ll also find a few more amenities in East Glacier, such as WiFi at the St. Mary’s Visitor Center, and a restaurant and motel at Rising Sun. This is also where you’ll find boat parking, and day parking for vehicles over 21 feet.

One of the many beautiful wooded views in West Glacier

One of the many beautiful wooded views in West Glacier

What is Many Glacier?

Many Glacier is the third section of the park, and truly one of the most spectacular. To access Many Glacier, you definitely need a car, as the park shuttle doesn’t go here. During 2020, the road to Many Glacier will be under construction, so be prepared for traffic and limited parking. There is also the option to hop on a boat from East Glacier, but this is not ideal for budget travelers.

You will have to show your entrance receipt or pass again when you enter Many Glacier.

Many Glacier is home to the Park’s main hotel, as well as some of the most famous sites in the park: Iceberg Lake and Grinnell Glacier. It’s important to remember that reaching these sites is not for everyone—you will be at elevation, and they are only accessed by trail.

Many Glacier is definitely one of my favorite sections of the park. It’s wild, largely untouched, and home to one of the last true glaciers in the continental US. This is also where I saw my first grizzly bears.

Grinnell Glacier, one of the most beautiful places in Many Glacier

Grinnell Glacier, one of the most beautiful places in Many Glacier

What is the Going to The Sun Road?

The Going to The Sun Road is one of the key parts of a full experience in Glacier National Park. This 50 mile long road will take you from East Glacier to West Glacier, and is only fully accessible to vehicles less than 21 feet long and park shuttles.

Driving this road is not for everyone. It is incredibly windy in the alpine section, and usually crowded. To beat crowds, I suggest hitting the road as early as 6 am. Here, you’ll find overlooks, pullouts, and three visitor centers with unique views and wildlife viewing opportunities. I suggest stopping at each exhibit, and making a whole day out of this unique drive.

My number one tip for experiencing the Going to The Sun Road is to take the shuttle, specifically if you plan on stopping in Logan Pass, the highest elevation on the road. There will not be parking at Logan Pass, as it is the most popular spot in the park, and the site of the High Line trailhead. If you do take the shuttle, when riding from Logan Pass to East Glacier, make sure you sit at a far-right window at least once—this is the best way to get views into the deep valleys below, but definitely isn’t for anyone afraid of heights!

The view from the Going to The Sun Road, heading East

The view from the Going to The Sun Road, heading East

There are also private tours of the Going to The Sun Road. If you would like a guided tour, check out the Red Bus Tours, which are not affiliated with the National Park Service.

Please keep in mind that the road is closed during the winter season, which can range anytime between September and late June, so it is best to plan a summer visit.

The view from the Going to The Sun Road heading West at 6am in late August: A Valley Filled With Clouds

The view from the Going to The Sun Road heading West at 6am in late August: A Valley Filled With Clouds

What can I see in the Park without hiking?

Glacier truly is a hiker’s paradise, but if you’re not a hiker, or aren’t physically able to do so, there is plenty you can still experience. The Going to The Sun Road is going to be your best bet for views comparable to those you might see on one of the Park’s longer hikes, and you can see Jackson Glacier from one of the first stops (coming from East Glacier). This is a great spot to stop and take pictures, but truly, any of the pullouts will do—Glacier’s views can’t be beat!

One of Glacier’s many waterfalls, as seen from a pullout along the Going to The Sun Road

One of Glacier’s many waterfalls, as seen from a pullout along the Going to The Sun Road

What are some family friendly hikes?

If you are traveling with kids, rest assured that there are plenty of hikes with good views that are ideal for families. While the park is a hiker’s paradise, there are quite a few trails that are short, or have little elevation gain (or both!). The first one I’d suggest checking out is the previously mentioned Trail of the Cedars in West Glacier. This magical spot is perfect for families with really young kids, as it does have a boardwalk, allowing those with strollers to experience these magnificent trees.

Another great family friendly hike in Glacier National Park is St. Mary’s Falls. These glacial waterfalls run bright blue, and the entire hike to see all three falls is less than 3 miles (out and back).

The first waterfall you’ll encounter along the St. Mary’s Falls Trail

The first waterfall you’ll encounter along the St. Mary’s Falls Trail

The last family friendly hike in Glacier that I’d highly recommend is a bit harder because it does gain some elevation, but the view is rewarding. At Logan Pass, you’ll find the Hidden Lake Overlook trailhead. This is the first section to a much longer hike (Hidden Lake), but this part is fairly easy for kids (I saw plenty on the trail). The trail is mostly made of man-made steps, and the peak will give you a spectacular view that can’t be beat. This is also where I saw my first ever mountain goats!

When traveling with kids, it’s important to give them the chance to learn and have fun. Pick up a Junior Ranger booklet at any visitor center, and help them earn a badge they can proudly wear throughout their trip.

View from the Hidden Lake Overlook Trail

View from the Hidden Lake Overlook Trail

Is visiting Logan Pass worth it?

Logan Pass is the highest point of elevation along the Going to The Sun Road, at over 6,000 feet. It truly is not something that should be skipped, and is key to having a full Glacier experience. Logan Pass is probably what I would consider the main visitor center, as it is exactly halfway between East and West Glacier. It is home to the Hidden Lake trailhead, as well as the High Line trailhead, and is integral to the shuttle system, as it is the only place you can transfer shuttles to get to West Glacier (the East Glacier shuttles are too large to go through the alpine section). Logan Pass is key to how the park runs, so make sure you don’t skip it!

In terms of that shuttle transfer, make sure you ask what time the last shuttles leave, and what time you should be back at Logan Pass to make it to East Glacier. The shuttles do stop running before sundown, and if you miss them, your only option will be to hitchhike back.

One of the many views near Logan Pass

One of the many views near Logan Pass

What hikes should be on my list?

If you are a hiker, Glacier is the ideal park for you. Apart from backcountry experiences, which you can read more about on the park website, there are two main hikes that you cannot miss during your trip to Glacier.

Disclaimer: please do not attempt without bear spray.

Located in Many Glacier, you’ll find the Grinnell Glacier trail. This 12.8 mile round trip hike will take you through some of the most beautiful landscapes in the park, under a small waterfall, and to one of the last standing glaciers in the continental US. This is a very difficult hike, and it’s recommended that you start early in the morning to find parking and beat the crowds. If you’re not sure of your ability, there are paid ranger-guided hikes that will take you up this trail and to the glacier. This is a hike to try and do as soon as possible. The glacier is melting fast, and will continue to do so due to global warming.

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Top of the Grinnell Glacier Trail

Top of the Grinnell Glacier Trail

The other must-hike trail in Glacier National Park is known as the High Line, which connects to The Loop. The High Line itself is a 16 mile out and back ridge hike that is not for the faint of heart—you will be on cliff edges for part of this hike! Most people connect the High Line to The Loop, a downhill trail that will make your trip an 11 mile one-way trip, rather than 16 miles out and back. The Loop, however, doesn’t have much to see, and will be 3 miles of steep downhill (so if you are prone to knee injuries, you might want to opt for the longer trip). The High Line is a spectacular hike with stunning views that will take you to a view of the other side of Grinnell Glacier. Here, you’ll see pine forests, towering mountains, and wildflowers. This is a very popular hike, and I would suggest heading out as early as possible. Since the trailhead is at Logan Pass, it is recommended that you take the first shuttle to the trail, rather than drive.

For either hike, make sure you have the right gear, including a rain layer.

One of the views you’ll catch on your way to Grinnell Glacier

One of the views you’ll catch on your way to Grinnell Glacier

Where should I stay?

There are tons of options when it comes to where to stay in Glacier National Park. One of the best ways to truly experience the park is to camp. While a few of the campgrounds to require reservations (Many Glacier, St. Mary’s, and Agpar), plenty are also available on a first come first served basis, and there are quite a few backcountry campgrounds available as well. On the west side, Avalanche is a good campground to stay in, due to its proximity to East Glacier. This is a great way to experience the West side of the Park at night, and have a shorter ride to the East side and Logan Pass during the day.

My favorite spot in Glacier is Rising Sun Campground. This campground is located in East Glacier, just 6 miles from the St. Mary’s Visitor Center. It is fantastic for solo travelers, and has its own shuttle stop. A stay at Rising Sun will also put you close to one of the park’s only restaurants, as well as a general store and pay showers. It’s also got one of the most unique sunrise views in the park, so make sure you get up early!

For camping in Glacier, I highly recommend using a 0 degree sleeping bag, no matter what time of year it is—it does get very cold at night. THIS is my favorite 0 degree bag, from Madera Outdoor.

There are also a few hotels and motels in the park, located at Rising Sun (East Glacier), Agpar Village (West Glacier), and Many Glacier. These are great options if you’re not into camping, or if it is simply too cold out to do so.

If you’d like to stay outside the park, there are options for that as well. On the West side of the park, you’ll find the town of Whitefish, Montana, an adorable little mountain town home to plenty of shops, restaurants, hotels, gas stations, and a hostel.

The sunrise in Rising Sun Campground

The sunrise in Rising Sun Campground

Glacier National Park is truly one of the treasures of the United States. No matter where you’re from, you should add it to your list, so that you too, can experience its incredible views, wildlife, and rapidly changing landscape. Glacier is unique, and is one of the largest and most popular National Parks in the United States, so let’s hit the road, and head out to the very north of Montana, to see what’s left of the United States’ true wilderness.

Top 10 Things to Do In Philadelphia

When it comes to cities I’ve visited in the US, Philadelphia stands out to me. While New York gets all the hype, and Los Angeles is a summer tourist destination not to be messed with, Philadelphia is easily one of my favorite big cities in the Lower 48.

I visited Philadelphia in the summer of 2018 with my mom and grandparents following a family reunion in Lancaster, PA. While I’m definitely more of a nature girl, I’m also all for saying yes to new experiences, and since Philly was a city I had never been to, I jumped at the chance to go.

Philadelphia truly is the City of Brotherly Love. My mom and I spent the majority of the trip wandering the city streets, and compared to most cities, we felt very safe as a couple of very small female travelers relying on Google Maps for directions. People were incredibly kind, and the tourist attractions didn’t feel super touristy to me. While there’s plenty to do in Philly, here are the things you absolutely can’t miss during your time there.

Itinerary info: This is based on a 5 day trip. All of these activities can easily be fit into a week or less, depending on your travel style.

Standing in front of a fountain at the Philadelphia Museum of Art

Standing in front of a fountain at the Philadelphia Museum of Art

Art:

When I visit a big city, one of the main things I like to do to get acquainted with its culture is to visit its art museums. Philadelphia has so many museums, it would be impossible to visit them all in one trip, but these Philadelphia art museums truly stand out.

Philadelphia Museum of Art:

Even if you’re not a fan of art, this museum deserves a spot on your Philadelphia itinerary due to its pop culture significance. This is the spot you’ve been looking for if you’ve been trying to figure out where the Rocky Steps are! Outside this huge museum, you’ll find a statue of Rocky himself, and the steps he runs up in the movie, so don’t be afraid to reenact that famous scene (plenty of people will be doing it).

If you are into art, however, it’s definitely worth a trip inside the museum. This spot reminds me of a combination of the Louvre in Paris and the Getty Center in Los Angeles. This huge building is home to many different styles of art, and is so large, you can easily get lost in its hallways.

Admission to the Philadelphia Museum of Art is just $25 for adults and offers senior and student discounts.

The Barnes Foundation:

If you’re a fan of Impressionist or Post-Impressionist art, The Barnes Foundation is the art museum for you. This smaller Philadelphia museum is perfect for an after-lunch stroll through the halls, and includes multiple rooms full of unique art by your favorite artists (think Van Gogh). This beautiful museum also includes an on-site restaurant and gift shop, and was voted the #1 museum in Philadelphia.

Admission to the Barnes Foundation costs $25 for adults and offers senior and student discounts.

The Rodin Museum

This was one of the spots I was most excited to visit during my trip to Philly because it is one of the only museums in the world to house Rodin’s famous statue: The Thinker. Closest to many of the museums located in Europe, this sculpture museum is home to many of Rodin’s famous pieces, and is one of the only places in the world to see a collection this vast of his work.

Admission to the Rodin Museum is based on a Pay What You Wish principle, but it is suggested that adults pay $12 admission, with student and senior discounted suggested prices. There is also an option for a two-day ticket that gets you into multiple museums in the area.

Running up the Rocky Steps is a rite of passage in Philly!

Running up the Rocky Steps is a rite of passage in Philly!

History:

If you’re visiting Philadelphia, it’s important that you visit at least one place of historical significance so that you can truly get the idea of this city’s foundations. While the city has plenty to see in terms of historical significance, the one spot you cannot miss during a trip to Philadelphia is actually run by the National Park Service, and is known as one of the smallest National Park Service Sites in the country.

The Liberty Bell at Independence National Historical Park

Seeing the Liberty Bell is easily one of the most iconic things to do in Philadelphia. Formerly the State House bell, the Liberty Bell is now located in Independence Hall. This bell has existed as a symbol of Philadelphia since 1751, and took on further historical significance as a symbol of liberty in the 1830’s. Here, you can learn about the city’s history with abolitionists, women’s suffrage, and civil rights, and read the words on the bell for yourself: “Proclaim Liberty Throughout All the Land Unto All the Inhabitants Thereof.”

Admission to Independence National Historical Park is free. This is one of the best things to do in Philadelphia for budget travelers.

You haven’t been to Philly if you don’t take your picture with the Liberty Bell

You haven’t been to Philly if you don’t take your picture with the Liberty Bell

Culture:

While you might think that no US city could have the culture cities in other countries have, the truth is, each city has its very unique rhythm worth experiencing.

Explore:

My mom and I did a lot of walking during our time in Philly. Truly, walking the streets just looking for interesting things to do is one of the best ways to dive right into a new city. We found unique parks this way, as well as bookshops, statues, and coffee shops.

The Love Statue:

One of the most iconic symbols of Philadelphia is the Love Statue. Known as the City of Brotherly Love, you can’t visit this iconic American city without a picture in front of this quirky statue, located in Love Park. This statue was created by Robert Indiana in 1976, and was briefly taken down in 1978 before popular demand brought it back. Now a symbol of the city, you can’t travel to Philly without seeing this symbol on t-shirts, postcards, and more.

Reading Terminal Market

Easily one of the most bustling places in Philadelphia, the Reading Terminal Market is an indoor street market full of restaurants, food vendors, and souvenir shops. Here, you’ll find merchants selling everything from full-on meals, fresh fruits and veggies, and kitchen essentials, and its fast-paced rhythm is sure to pull you in as you experience this little corner of Philadelphia for yourself.

The Love Statue truly is a symbol of Philadelphia

The Love Statue truly is a symbol of Philadelphia

Vegan Food:

I am vegan, so I will not promote any restaurants directly that support animal cruelty. The good news is, these spots are so tasty, anyone would love them (and you might not even be able to tell the difference!).

Hip City Veg

Hip City Veg is one of the best convenient vegan restaurants I’ve ever been to. Located only in Philadelphia and Washington DC, Hip City Veg was so good, we had to go back a second time, and I even ended up buying a souvenir t-shirt from them. This vegan spot is known for burgers, salads, and milkshakes, and my mom and I made a huge point to order different things every time so that we could try more of their amazing menu.

Tip: Make sure you get a milkshake, and ask if they can do half chocolate and half vanilla (they can, but it might not be on the menu!). Also their Kale Lemonade is to die for!

V Street:

If you’re looking for a nice sit-down restaurant to indulge in during your time in Philadelphia, this is the spot for you. V Street is a share-style restaurant where you order multiple small plates, which come out one at a time, and share them with your table. The service here was absolutely amazing, and we loved everything we ordered. They even brought us an extra dish when we said we were visiting from California!

Grindcore House:

A little off the beaten path, this was one spot we had to take a Lyft to because it was just a little too far from our hotel. Worth the extra miles, Grindcore House is a cute little hole-in-the-wall coffee house that specializes in vegan coffee and pastries. The staff was awesome about recommending the right milk for the drinks we ordered, and the punk atmosphere makes for one of the most unique Philly experiences we had while in the city.

Coffee and pastries at Grindcore House, Philadelphia, PA

Coffee and pastries at Grindcore House, Philadelphia, PA

Getting Around:

Philadelphia is a fairly walkable city. We walked nearly everywhere we went, as nothing was too far from our hotel, which was in the center of the city. The streets are a bit confusing at first, but you’ll quickly get the hang of it, and Google Maps is your friend!

Lyft and Uber are also available for any spots that are just a little too far to walk, and there is public transport as well, although we found we didn’t need it during our time there.

Another option, if you don’t want to walk, is to take a tour bus. Now, this is not my favorite way to see a city, but it’s great if you’re traveling with young kids or grandparents who might not be able to walk as far. All of the art museums are part of the hop on hop off bus route, and you’ll get a fairly comprehensive tour of the city when you take one of these buses as well.

Modern art at the Philadelphia Museum of Art

Modern art at the Philadelphia Museum of Art

When planning a visit to Philadelphia, there are a few things you just can’t miss. From Independence National Historical Park to amazing food, and unique culture, the City of Brotherly Love has a little something for every type of traveler. But don’t hesitate to just let the sidewalks tell you where to go—letting your soul do the wandering is half the fun!

How to Truly Experience New York City

I know what you’re thinking: me? Not writing about a National Park or natural space? Weird, right? Well, this week, in one of the many travel groups I’m in on Facebook, someone asked for recommendations for New York City. And after writing all of my favorite spots out for her, I realized, wow, I’ve been to New York a lot and could probably write something about this.

Disclaimer: I am in no way encouraging travel during COVID-19. Please use this as a reference for all trip planning and daydreaming during this time. Thanks!

I’ve visited New York city so many times since I was a kid, I’ve honestly lost count. My first trip there was when I was about 8 years old, and my last one was during my solo road trip this past summer. In between that, it was a mix of New Year’s Eves spent with family in Upstate New York with interspersed day trips into the city, and a cross country train trip I took with my grandma from LA to NYC the year I graduated high school.

So, I think I know my way around fairly well at this point. These are my must-sees, for a well-rounded trip that’ll show you everything this city has to offer.

The New York City Skyline, as seen from the Empire State Building

The New York City Skyline, as seen from the Empire State Building

The High Line and Chelsea Market

The High Line is awesome. Attached to the famous and quirky Chelsea Market, an indoor market with people selling all types of food at established shops, the High Line is an elevated sidewalk above the streets of the city. It’s beautifully decorated with plants and benches, and serves as a small, incredibly unique park above the city chaos.

MoMA and Starry Night

One of my favorite experiences in NYC has been to the Museum of Modern Art. When I visited New York with my grandparents that summer after finishing high school, I was very into art, especially the impressionists and post-impressionists. The one thing I wanted to do in the city was visit art museums, and out of the ones we visited, MoMA will always be my favorite. The reason for this is, on the top floor, lives Vincent Van Gogh’s Starry Night. Now, I had no idea that my favorite painting ever created was housed here, and I almost didn’t go up to the top floor. I didn’t even notice it at first. I was just looking at other famous paintings by other artists I loved, and turned the corner to see a crowd in front of a painting I could only see the corner of. That corner was enough, and it quickly became a highlight of my trip. A stranger took my picture in front of the painting (should’ve known back then I’d grow up to love solo travel), and now it’s one of my top things I recommend you do when you visit NYC for the first time.

Little Italy, NYC

Little Italy, NYC

The Strand Bookstore

The Strand is another super unique thing I experienced on that trip a few years ago. I was a writing major in college, so a lot of city excursions for me throughout those younger years included trips to cool bookstores. The Strand was actually a surprise element my grandma came up with when planning that trip back east. It’s the largest bookstore in the city, and its size is honestly impressive, even if you’re not a big reader.

Inside The Strand Bookstore, NYC

Inside The Strand Bookstore, NYC

The Friends Fountain

Friends is one of the most popular TV shows across generations. During the time of that huge trip after high school, I was big into Friends, so in addition to those museums, I needed to go find the Friends Fountain in Central Park (you know, the one from the theme song). It’s not too hard to find and I’m 90% sure it’s on Google Maps, but you will definitely get a good tour of Central Park while you look.

The Empire State Building

I had to throw some touristy stuff in here. You simply can’t go to NYC without seeing the Empire State Building. And yes, it’s worth the hype. It was on my bucket list for a while to go to the top, so when the opportunity arose, I jumped on it. Sometimes you have to just say yes to things—who knows when you’ll get the chance again? So, I rode the elevator to the top, which was terrifying, but the views are worth it.

Me at age 18, in front of the Friends Fountain in Central Park, NYC (2016)

Me at age 18, in front of the Friends Fountain in Central Park, NYC (2016)

Ellis Island and the Statue of Liberty

You thought I’d get through this list without mentioning a National Park. Ellis Island is an incredibly important historical stop. I always make a point to learn about the place I’m visiting when I travel, and since I actually had ancestors come to the states through Ellis Island, this was one of our excursions during one of those early trips to New York. Seeing the Statue of Liberty is a cool experience for travelers of any age, and the ferry ride over will make this a day trip to remember.

The American Museum of Natural History

So, we’ve all seen Night at the Museum, yeah? An absolute classic, according to mine and my brother’s generations. Well, in New York, you can experience the museum for real. The Museum of Natural History is one of my favorite spots in NYC. You can truly spend an entire day here, and it’s budget-traveler friendly because they do have a “pay what you want” option for admission. You can explore all of the regions of the world, and journey into the prehistoric past with the dinosaurs. It’s truly one of the most interesting spots in the city for adults and children, and something no one should miss.

A beautiful NYC sunset

A beautiful NYC sunset

Honorable Mentions:

Chinatown: great food, and a different side of the NYC culture you won’t get anywhere else.

Little Italy: stop here for gelato, food, or just to walk around and appreciate some street art.

Vegan Restaurants:

By Chloe- one of the more famous plant-based spots. Make sure you get their take on the classic Hostess Cupcake before you leave!

Peacefood Café- a great little vegan spot with wifi, fresh food, and good service. They also carry plenty of delicious baked goods, so don’t leave empty-handed!

What you can skip…

There’s really only one thing on this list: Times Square. I absolutely hate Times Square. Maybe it’s because I’ve been so many times I feel like a local, but I personally find it overrated, crowded, and dirty. It’s just a tourist trap full of shops you can find elsewhere in the city. While there are some fun things for kids here (like M&M’s world), it’s definitely not a spot you have to visit to say you’ve experienced New York. But if you’re insistent on seeing it, go for it! Everyone’s opinions are different, and maybe you’ll find a hidden gem there I haven’t discovered yet.

Getting around:

New York is a cool experience for any type of traveler, but I highly recommend not renting a car, or if you’re a vanlifer, driving in at all. Rely on public transport as much as possible, and walk when you have no other option. The Subway is really easy to navigate, and taxis, while more expensive, are everywhere. Plus, it’s not a real trip to the Big Apple if you don’t hail a taxi at least once, right?

A healthy dinner from Peacefood Café in NYC

A healthy dinner from Peacefood Café in NYC

New York City is a bucket list destination for so many people. It’s a unique spot that kind of defines the word “city” for a lot of travelers, and is full of plenty of amazing and incomparable experiences. From history to art to the quirkiness of the city itself, there is so much more to do there than is even on this list—these are just my personal tips. The Big Apple is a must if you’re a city lover, so make sure you don’t miss these spots, and of course, try to find your own hidden gems along the way.

Your Guide to Our Public Lands

During my time on the road, I’ve spent a lot of time on public land. From my slight obsession with the National Park Service, to using BLM and Forest Land to park my van overnight, I’ve experienced just about every type of public land there is in the United States. The thing is, all these terms can get confusing, and I’ve seen it happen more than once where state parks and BLM land are mistaken for National Parks. Each type of public land is vastly different, has different rules and expectations, and are run by different sectors of the government. This is a complete guide to exploring public land in the United States.

Dispersed camping on BLM land in California

Dispersed camping on BLM land in California

National Parks

National Parks are easily the most popular and the most commonly referenced public land in the US. Many people believe that all public land is Park Land, which is an easy mistake to make. I used to think the same thing! But really, National Park only refers to the 419 sites run by the National Park Service. This includes sites with “Park Status” such as Yosemite, the Grand Canyon, and Yellowstone, as well as National Monuments (Devils Tower), National Military Parks (Gettysburg), National Historic Parks (Harper’s Ferry), and other natural sites, such as National Lakeshores, Recreation Areas, and Seashores.

The National Park Service (NPS) is my personal favorite because they truly go out of their way to protect their land. National Parks are zones free from hunting, lumber, fishing, and more, and are solely used for recreation, conservation, and education.

Bryce Canyon National Park, UT

Bryce Canyon National Park, UT

Camping is only allowed in National Parks if you are in a developed campground. Lots of NPS campgrounds can be reserved in advance, but some are first come first served, so check on the Park’s website before visiting. Backcountry camping is allowed, but like with all public lands, you must have a permit.

Most National Parks require an entrance fee to visit, and this can range from $20-35 depending on the park. I highly suggest purchasing an America the Beautiful Pass if you are planning on visiting more than 3 National Park Service sites per year.

Glacier National Park, MT

Glacier National Park, MT

National Forests

While the word “national” often means National Forests get lumped in with National Parks, they are vastly different from each other. The main difference is that National Forests are run by the United States Department of Agriculture (USDA), not the NPS. National Forests are not necessarily actual forests. They often don’t actually have trees! They’re just called forests by the USDA. Oftentimes, National Forests surround National Parks, and they’re recognizable by their brown and yellow welcome signs.

National Forests are always free to visit, as they often surround roads and highways. You will, however have to pay to camp in most developed campgrounds, and sometimes there is a parking fee for trailheads and picnic areas. An America the Beautiful Pass will waive parking fees for National Forests, but not camping fees.

Cathedral Rock, a trail maintained by one of Sedona, AZ’s many National Forests

Cathedral Rock, a trail maintained by one of Sedona, AZ’s many National Forests

The USDA is very different from the NPS in the way that they protect their land. Often, people can secure fishing or hunting permits in National Forests (but, please don’t. You know, respect nature). The USDA will use parts of National Forests for lumber farming, so land is not as protected in a National Forest as it is in a National Park.

The main plus-side of National Forests is something I discovered in the vanlife community, but anyone who camps often will benefit from this as well. National Forests usually allow dispersed camping: camping in undeveloped areas. This means you can park off of just about any dirt road in the Forest, and camp for free, so for overlanders and car campers, this can be a great way to never have to pay for a place to stay during a long road trip. Disclaimer: check the USDA website for the Forest you are in to check if there are any specific dispersed camping regulations in the area.

Fun Fact! The USDA and National Forest sector of our public lands is home to the only National Grassland in the prairie region of the United States. The Sheyenne National Grassland is located in North Dakota and it is absolutely gorgeous and unexpected if you happen to be going through the middle of the country.

Sheyenne National Grasslands, ND

Sheyenne National Grasslands, ND

State Parks

Believe it or not, people often also confuse State Parks for National Parks. State Parks are incredibly different from National Parks. State Parks are not run by the federal government like the other public lands on this list. State Parks are run by their state’s specific state government, so their rules and laws depend on those of the state, versus those of the federal government. State Parks are often smaller (other than the beautiful Anza Borrego Desert State Park in CA), and all of them require entrance fees averaging at about $10 across the country. The America the Beautiful Pass will not grant you entrance to a State Park (believe me, I’ve tried, many times), and instead, you must purchase a state parks pass for each separate state you visit.

State Parks include State Forests, State Historic Parks, and State Beaches, and we can just go ahead and lump County Parks and similar in this category as well.

Valley of Fire State Park, NV

Valley of Fire State Park, NV

BLM Land

BLM Land is one of the most confusing concepts for most people. BLM Land is not run by the National Park Service, or the Department of Agriculture, but is instead run by a completely different sector of the United States Federal Government—the Bureau of Land Management.

BLM Land is mostly for camping, rather than other types of recreation. While BLM Land does have developed campgrounds, it’s most often referred to when speaking about dispersed camping. Just like National Forest developed campgrounds, BLM Land developed sites do usually have a fee, and are usually first come first served. Dispersed sites can be found on the sides of secondary (dirt) roads, and are usually unmarked.

Parked on BLM Land in Alabama Hills, CA

Parked on BLM Land in Alabama Hills, CA

Disclaimer: Dispersed camping in both National Forests and on BLM Land is not for everyone. While “free” might sound enticing, these spots have no facilities, no water, and no bathrooms. You must properly dispose of waste (trash and… you know), and Leave No Trace whenever using these sites.

LEARN LNT PRINCIPLES HERE

While public land is everywhere, it is a concept that usually confuses people. Not all public land is the same, and it’s important to know the difference before you go out and use any of it. But the main thing to remember, as with all public land, it’s important to be respectful. Do some extra research on specific destinations prior to visiting, and leave sites the way you found them. Safe travels!


Looking to plan a road trip that takes you to public land sites in the US? My 3 month, 48 state road trip route is now available in the SHOP!

Vanlife During COVID-19

The coronavirus has completely turned the world as we know it upside down. I first heard about it when I flew back from Laos in January, and since then, I’ve moved into my new rig (my 1997 Dodge Ram conversion van) full time. Traveling full time since June has been a blessing, but as the COVID crisis continues to escalate in the US, it’s left me wondering: what about us?

Vanlifers and full time road-dwellers are growing in population, and while many people aren’t hitting the road right now due to the virus, there are quite a few of us still on the road, living full time in our vehicles. These stay at home orders are necessary, but they fail to include people who don’t have a solid home base, and who, instead, travel in their homes.

Working from home

Working from home

For vanlifers, public land is a necessity. We do not just use it for recreation, outdoor sports, or even “camping.” We rely on public lands to be able to live in our homes when we have no other options (and of course, sometimes, for fun). It was expected that the National Parks would shut down, and it was expected that developed campgrounds would slowly close their gates to stop weekend warriors, snowbirds, and other people trying to vacation away from the virus. But lately, BLM and Forest land has been threatening closures too, and for those of us who live on the road, I have to ask the question: where are we supposed to go?

My van, in Alabama Hills, CA

My van, in Alabama Hills, CA

Jared (@jaredinthevan) and I are lucky, in that we are still in the same state that my family lives in, so if worst came to absolute worst, it wouldn’t be impossible for us to turn around, and head back south, and be safe. But the fact is, our vans are our homes, and we want to be able to stay in our homes just like everyone else. So, in the event that all public land closes, many people will be facing a huge dilemma.

While stealth camping in cities is usually an option, in the attempt to avoid human contact, cities are out of the question, and we’d like to avoid small towns so that we don’t risk spreading the virus to gateway communities. Ideally, we’d like to continue self-isolation on BLM land where we can have little to no human interaction whatsoever.

Mine and Jared’s vans, isolated on public land

Mine and Jared’s vans, isolated on public land

I’ve noticed quite a bit of insensitivity to this matter recently. People who do not follow me are commenting on my posts telling me to stop using public land for “recreation.” People are making snap judgements of full time vanlifers, telling them to go home when they might not have a place to rely on. I personally would prefer to not reach the worst case scenario of going to my parents’ house because I don’t want to risk exposing my family (especially as I have a brother who falls into the vulnerable category), and I don’t want to take their resources either, especially since toilet paper in the cities is a completely extinct species.

It’s important to practice compassion in this time, and that includes for people who live alternative lifestyles. Everybody’s lives just got turned upside down—let’s support each other, and help people living on the road quarantine safely, instead of making life harder for a unique group of people.

-HWS

Resources For Full Time Vanlifers

If you are on the road and need a place to stay, there are still open public lands, but check on the BLM website first before heading out.

iOverlander users have mentioned COVID in a couple of their reviews, so keep an eye out for that!

There is also an amazing list of people with extra land in the US who are willing to host vanlifers who need a place to stay. You can find that list HERE!

National Parks and National Emergencies

Visiting Death Valley During COVID-19

It was only a matter of time before I had to start addressing COVID-19 on here. As a travel blog that specializes in adventure travel, the world has felt a little weird lately. People can’t go outside, trails are closing, and only a few National Parks remain open. While certain small and high traffic parks have closed, such as Yosemite, Rocky Mountain, and White Sands, some do remain open with modifications.

I am currently living on the road full time. What this means is that I carry my house with me, like a snail, and have been isolated on public land for the past almost-week. While California does have a “shelter in place” order, it was stated that driving no more than an hour to spend time outside is okay, so since the public land I’m calling home was one hour from Death Valley National Park, I wanted to take the opportunity to go in, see the park for the first time, and address how the world has had to make modifications due to this global pandemic.

Golden Canyon Trail

Golden Canyon Trail

Currently, all National Parks are free to enter. Please keep in mind that National Parks are different from National Forests, which are run by the USDA, rather than the NPS. Largely, National Parks are not staffed right now. Visitor Centers are closed nationwide and bathrooms, campgrounds, and other facilities like parking lots that need to be maintained are locked. While Death Valley remained open, it felt like a very different, almost eerie experience to visit during this time. With only one ranger sighting throughout the entire park, multiple road closures, and 40MPH wind gusts, visiting a National Park during a National Emergency was an adventure to remember.

Please note: it is inadvisable to travel to National Parks during the COVID outbreak. I live full time on the road, mostly on BLM land, where I am able to isolate. I did not travel to go on a vacation in the National Park. This is my lifestyle, and I am treating it no differently than if I was in a house driving an hour to hike a local trail.

Zabriskie Point

Zabriskie Point

About Death Valley:

Death Valley is the largest National Park in the lower 48, and spans across both California and Nevada. It is most commonly accessed through the west, and we entered through Lone Pine, CA, which is where we are camped. Death Valley is a bit of a mismatched park. It has a little bit of everything, from mountains to desert, and each of its main attractions don’t really feel like they should fit together. From sand dunes to the lowest elevation in the United States at the Badwater Basin Salt Flats, Death Valley is a unique park that should be added to your list for future trips.

Mesquite Flat Sand Dunes

Mesquite Flat Sand Dunes

Restrictions in the National Park:

While Death Valley remains open at the time of the publication of this piece, there were restrictions within the park. Most visitor centers nationwide are closed right now, as are all public restrooms, lodging/camping, and pay stations. In Death Valley specifically, we were surprised to see that Panamint Springs was open, meaning we could get gas on our way into and out of the park. All parking lots were barricaded, so street parking was our only option for the sites that were open. There were also unexpected road closures, which caused for some disappointment as we tried to access Artists Palette, Dante’s View, Natural Arch, and Devils Golfcourse.

Badwater Basin Salt Flats

Badwater Basin Salt Flats

What was accessible?

Despite the restrictions, quite a lot was still accessible, and due to the lack of visitors, it was completely possible to still be isolated while in the park. We did not come into contact with any other people, and as avid hikers and outdoorsy humans, we always leave no trace, and that includes the spread of COVID (hands were washed often and we were careful to only touch the natural features of the park).

We were able to access the Mesquite Flat Sand Dunes, Badwater Basin Salt Flats, Golden Canyon trail, Ubehebe Crater, and Zabriskie Point, so we felt like we got a decent overview of the park, even though we had less than 12 hours there altogether.

Mesquite Flat Sand Dunes

Mesquite Flat Sand Dunes

The thing is, this trip to a National Park was incredibly different from any other National Park trip I’ve taken in the past. While this was my 35th park, it didn’t feel quite the same without a trip to the visitor center, open roads, and maps to collect. But the thing is, although we visited out of convenience and a need to get outside during this self-isolation, the park isn’t going anywhere. I can always go back and experience it in full. It’s time to let mother Earth heal first, and then the adventure can continue.

-HWS

How to Have an Epic Adventure in Your Hometown

With every other post on social media being about the coronavirus right now, it’s easy to feel anxious about traveling and exploring new places, especially if your usual mode of transportation is an airplane. For those of us with the travel bug (or even those with just the springtime itch to travel), this time can be one of anxiety, frustration, and a feeling of being stuck. The thing is, you don’t have to go far to have an epic adventure, and likely, there are places not to far from where you live that you haven’t discovered yet. Having a “stay-cation” might just be the best way to fuel that adventure craving without getting on an airplane, and this is the best way to do it.

El Matador Beach, CA

El Matador Beach, CA

Realize that anything can be an adventure

You don’t have to be new to a city to explore it. One of the most productive things I’ve done since I started traveling is realize that I don’t know everything about my hometown. It’s super easy to assume you have nothing left to see in or around your hometown, but the truth is, there are always hidden gems that you don’t know about yet. Check to see if there are any hiking trails you haven’t done before, or parks you haven’t been to. Museums are always changing out their exhibits, and restaurants always have new specials to try. Even something as small as going to a new ice cream shop can be an adventure if you approach it with the right mindset.

Visit a local state park! Lake Anita State Park, IA

Visit a local state park! Lake Anita State Park, IA

Make a list of the things you GENUINELY love doing when you travel

When you’re on the go exploring new cities far from home, what is it that you always make sure you do? For example, some of my friends enjoy checking out a coffee shop right when they arrive in a new place. For cities, I like to explore the art scene and go to art museums. When I visit natural places, I like to learn about the geology and wildlife in the place I’m visiting and then go on a hike. When you realize what makes your passion for travel shine when you’re far from home, you’ll be able to figure out what you might love doing in your hometown.

I love being outdoors when I travel, but sometimes just a visit to a city park will suffice. Mount Tabor Park, OR

I love being outdoors when I travel, but sometimes just a visit to a city park will suffice. Mount Tabor Park, OR

If you’re worried about cities, stick to the outdoors

This one simply has to do with the fears of getting sick that are circulating through social media. Not only is exploring nature incredibly good for your health (exercise and fresh air), but it will get you out of those dirty cities where germs are spread. There are tons of National and State Parks all over the world (yes, there are National Parks almost everywhere), so go hit your local one and appreciate the beauty of nature.

If you’re in the US, National Parks have different categories. Visit a National Historic Site, National Recreation Area, or National Monument. Each type offers a little something different, so if you’re not that into hiking, you’ll still be able to find something fun to do in your local NPS sites.

National Parks aren’t just for the outdoor enthusiast! Visit historic sites like Gettysburg National Military Park

National Parks aren’t just for the outdoor enthusiast! Visit historic sites like Gettysburg National Military Park

Take a day trip

Normally, I’d say take a road trip, but since most people don’t live out of their vehicles, you’d need to stay in hotels, and frankly, I don’t think a lot of people are doing that during this moment in history. So, my best advice instead is to take day trips. Choose a place that’s only an hour or two away from your hometown, and make a point to go there and explore for a day. Two hours is plenty of time to get back in time to sleep in your own bed, but you won’t find yourself lacking in time spent at your destination. Of course, National Parks are great for day trips, but so are beaches, lakes, and even smaller cities, depending on what you’re interested in or what you feel comfortable doing.

Go to somewhere close by to where you are or where you live, such as your local National Park. Indiana Dunes National Park, IN

Go to somewhere close by to where you are or where you live, such as your local National Park. Indiana Dunes National Park, IN

If you’re itching to explore, this strange point in time might be hitting you a little extra hard, but the truth is, there’s adventure in the everyday, even if that everyday is spent in your hometown. There are likely tons of places you haven’t explored right near where you live, so branch out, visit a local state park, and make anything an adventure.

Book Review: 100 Drives, 5000 Ideas

(Note: this post is in partnership with TLC Book Tours)

When I first completed my road trip around the lower 48, I had tons of people messaging me for my route. It wasn’t until then that I realized how hard it is to truly plan a road trip if that travel bug isn’t constantly sitting on your shoulder. When TLC Book Tours reached out to me about this book, I automatically thought that it might help some of my new roadtrippers to plan their first journey around North America so I decided to give it a read, and it turns out, I was right!

100 Drives, 5000 Ideas covers 100 different driving routes you can take around the United States and Canada. These drives feature everything from National Parks to historic sites to great Americana (think Route 66). From classic road trips to unique drives even I’d never heard of before, every type of traveler will find something that interests them in this book.

Devils Tower National Monument, WY, one of the places you’ll visit on the Northern Plains Heritage Route

Devils Tower National Monument, WY, one of the places you’ll visit on the Northern Plains Heritage Route

The book is divided by region, so you’ll be able to find a drive that works for your home state, or for a state you’re trying to visit soon (the section that included Alaska was my personal favorite!). And with plenty of suggestions for places to stay during your trip, things to see nearby your route, and even pieces of pop culture that feature the places you’ll see on your trip, this is the perfect book for the person who’s brand new to road trips. Take the Trail of the Ancients and see the entire Southwest, from Colorado to New Mexico, visiting places like Four Corners Monument, Monument Valley, and Mesa Verde National Park. Or, travel to Hawaii on island time and drive the Big Island’s Belt Road, which will take you to spots like Keauhou Bay and the Mauna Loa Lookout. Or, if mountains are more your thing, take the Rocky Mountain Highway through two of my personal favorite states: Montana and Wyoming and explore places like Glacier National Park and Yellowstone.

Glacier National Park, MT, part of the Rocky Mountain Highway route

Glacier National Park, MT, part of the Rocky Mountain Highway route

Personally, I loved looking at the different destinations listed in the book—a lot of them were places I’d been already, and those that weren’t quickly made it onto the list. It was super exciting to see spots like Devils Tower, Pinnacles National Park, and Olympic National Park pop up in a piece of writing like this. These are places that are near and dear to my heart, and simplifying a visit for people through a step by step road trip itinerary might get more people out there to appreciate their beauty.

Yellowstone National Park, WY

Yellowstone National Park, WY

With beautiful pictures, clear outlines for road trip planning, and convincing details about each stop on the trip, you truly can’t go wrong with this book as an outline for your upcoming travels (although I do wish they included more maps!). And as for my vanlifers, this might just be a good addition to that van bookshelf, for next time you’re looking for your next destination and just can’t make up your mind. 100 Drives, 5000 Ideas is a fantastic guide book for the new roadtripper, or for the veteran who’s looking for some new ideas, so get ready to add some new spots to your bucket list, after of course, you put this book on your reading list!