National Parks and National Emergencies

Visiting Death Valley During COVID-19

It was only a matter of time before I had to start addressing COVID-19 on here. As a travel blog that specializes in adventure travel, the world has felt a little weird lately. People can’t go outside, trails are closing, and only a few National Parks remain open. While certain small and high traffic parks have closed, such as Yosemite, Rocky Mountain, and White Sands, some do remain open with modifications.

I am currently living on the road full time. What this means is that I carry my house with me, like a snail, and have been isolated on public land for the past almost-week. While California does have a “shelter in place” order, it was stated that driving no more than an hour to spend time outside is okay, so since the public land I’m calling home was one hour from Death Valley National Park, I wanted to take the opportunity to go in, see the park for the first time, and address how the world has had to make modifications due to this global pandemic.

Golden Canyon Trail

Currently, all National Parks are free to enter. Please keep in mind that National Parks are different from National Forests, which are run by the USDA, rather than the NPS. Largely, National Parks are not staffed right now. Visitor Centers are closed nationwide and bathrooms, campgrounds, and other facilities like parking lots that need to be maintained are locked. While Death Valley remained open, it felt like a very different, almost eerie experience to visit during this time. With only one ranger sighting throughout the entire park, multiple road closures, and 40MPH wind gusts, visiting a National Park during a National Emergency was an adventure to remember.

Please note: it is inadvisable to travel to National Parks during the COVID outbreak. I live full time on the road, mostly on BLM land, where I am able to isolate. I did not travel to go on a vacation in the National Park. This is my lifestyle, and I am treating it no differently than if I was in a house driving an hour to hike a local trail.

Zabriskie Point

About Death Valley:

Death Valley is the largest National Park in the lower 48, and spans across both California and Nevada. It is most commonly accessed through the west, and we entered through Lone Pine, CA, which is where we are camped. Death Valley is a bit of a mismatched park. It has a little bit of everything, from mountains to desert, and each of its main attractions don’t really feel like they should fit together. From sand dunes to the lowest elevation in the United States at the Badwater Basin Salt Flats, Death Valley is a unique park that should be added to your list for future trips.

Mesquite Flat Sand Dunes

Restrictions in the National Park:

While Death Valley remains open at the time of the publication of this piece, there were restrictions within the park. Most visitor centers nationwide are closed right now, as are all public restrooms, lodging/camping, and pay stations. In Death Valley specifically, we were surprised to see that Panamint Springs was open, meaning we could get gas on our way into and out of the park. All parking lots were barricaded, so street parking was our only option for the sites that were open. There were also unexpected road closures, which caused for some disappointment as we tried to access Artists Palette, Dante’s View, Natural Arch, and Devils Golfcourse.

Badwater Basin Salt Flats

What was accessible?

Despite the restrictions, quite a lot was still accessible, and due to the lack of visitors, it was completely possible to still be isolated while in the park. We did not come into contact with any other people, and as avid hikers and outdoorsy humans, we always leave no trace, and that includes the spread of COVID (hands were washed often and we were careful to only touch the natural features of the park).

We were able to access the Mesquite Flat Sand Dunes, Badwater Basin Salt Flats, Golden Canyon trail, Ubehebe Crater, and Zabriskie Point, so we felt like we got a decent overview of the park, even though we had less than 12 hours there altogether.

Mesquite Flat Sand Dunes

The thing is, this trip to a National Park was incredibly different from any other National Park trip I’ve taken in the past. While this was my 35th park, it didn’t feel quite the same without a trip to the visitor center, open roads, and maps to collect. But the thing is, although we visited out of convenience and a need to get outside during this self-isolation, the park isn’t going anywhere. I can always go back and experience it in full. It’s time to let mother Earth heal first, and then the adventure can continue.

-HWS

Where My Travel Bug Was Born

An Ode to Vasquez Rocks

All travelers have to start somewhere. For me, it was in a county park that now feels so small, but holds so many memories. As soon as I was old enough, my parents started taking me to Vasquez Rocks County Park in Agua Dulce, California on a regular basis. My dad had come here as a kid as well, and if I have kids, and live in California, you can guarantee they’ll be climbing the same rocks.

My younger years at Vasquez were filled with nearly empty picnic spots, eating peanut butter sandwiches and tortilla chips on the rocks, and hunting for petroglyphs. Vasquez is a special place, and as much as it changes nearly every time I visit, the rocks are always the same, and the ravens still crow, and the tree we used to park next to still stands.

The Main Vasquez

Vasquez Rocks is quite famous. You’ve likely seen its towering “main Vasquez” in commercials, or perhaps an episode of Star Trek, and the Pacific Crest Trail passes right through the park. But these aren’t the reasons it has a special place in my heart.

Vasquez Rocks for me represents the seeds of exploration. I associate its sandstone rock forms with my Peter Pan days of playing pretend and going on adventures that seemed big at the time. It was where I took my first hikes, scrambled my first rocks, and got my first few scraped knees. And now that I’m older, and the adventures have gotten bigger, I find myself reminiscing on those days more than ever, and have found myself returning to the park more often, making new memories.

Me as a young child, learning to rock scramble

I’ve since discovered new trails at Vasquez Rocks, and new parts of the park that I hadn’t paid much attention to as a kid. I found out that the park is dog friendly, and took my family’s dog, Josey there when we visited for my 21st birthday forever ago. Now, I’ve spent time studying the rocks with Jared (@jaredinthevan) as bouldering and climbing started to peak my interest.

The sandstone rocks of Vasquez

We all have our safe spaces, and for me right now, those spaces are outside. It’s never a bad thing to revisit some childhood memories, either by physically going to the place, or through photographs (or both). Vasquez Rocks for me is a place that will always be there, no matter how much its changed over the years, and in times like these, it’s important to remember what made you the person you are today, to stay grounded, to not lose hope.

-HWS

Why I Live in a Van

I’ve been living in the van full time for a month now, and the truth is, living in a van down by the river (or in the desert, or woods, or mountains, or city) is the best life ever. But I get it: you might not. And that’s okay, but really, full time travel is something that a lot of people are pursuing these days. I live in a 1997 Dodge Ram 3500 conversion van. It has a full sized bed, refrigerator, running water, solar power electricity, and an emergency toilet, and it’s everything I need to be happy. It’s not all fun and games, but it gives our lives variety. It allows me to have the freedom my soul wants while still being a Responsible Adult. And it’s allowed me to find myself, at least a little bit. So this is my why. Why travel. Why an alternative lifestyle. Why vanlife.

Camping on Joshua Tree South BLM

What is an alternative lifestyle?

We’ve all heard of the 9-5. We’ve all heard of the college, get married, buy a house, have kids, work for 30 years, retire loop that people tend to get stuck in. An alternative lifestyle is the rejection of that. It’s the idea that we are in charge of our own lives, not society. You can really do whatever you want. The thing is, whatever your excuse is, spin it around. If you think, “yeah but… I have to work.” Why can’t you do that from the road? Why can’t you start your own business? “Yeah but… I’m supposed to be buying a house.” Why is that? Who is saying that a house is your next step? There are no written rules for life, so it’s important to understand that we can take charge of our own paths, and do the thing that makes our souls feel full.

Of course, if a 9-5 feels right to you, then amazing! Do that! But for many of the people in my community, there’s boredom in a 9-5, there’s creative blocks, there’s a feeling of being trapped. So listen to that feeling and know that there’s another life out there.

Camping at Anza Borrego Desert State Park

But you can’t just be on vacation all the time…

Whoa whoa whoa… I have to stop you there. This is not a vacation. First I want to talk about something that my guide, Mike, brought up on the first day of my GIVE trip: what is the difference between a vacation and an adventure?

To me, a vacation is an escape from something, usually from a job or school. A vacation has the purpose of being a relaxing break before you return to real life.

An adventure is what this life feels like to me, but it’s more than that: this is my real life. Travel is my lifestyle. I still deal with real life, sometimes more than I would if I was living in an apartment, because in a moving house, things tend to break. I have to fill up my water tanks and dump the grey water when it’s full. I go grocery shopping and cook breakfast, lunch, and dinner every night. And more importantly, I work. I spend about 50% of my time in a place working so that I can afford to be where I am. This is simply life to me—it’s just that my backyard changes.

Loving life in Joshua Tree National Park. Photo by my friend Jared @jaredinthevan.

Why a van?

Now a lot of people romanticize backpacking, which is also long term travel, but yet don’t understand vanlife. Why is that? Honestly, there is a stigma, but when I have friends living in Mercedes Sprinters, it’s hard to understand why that stigma still stands. Honestly, I chose a van because I wanted to travel, but didn’t want rent to pay on top of my plane tickets. I wanted to be going full time, and having a van allows you to have everything you could possibly need with you all the time, no matter where you are.

I chose a van because when I sleep next to a national park I wake up to the sunrise peeking through my windows. I chose a van because ending my day surrounded by somewhere new but under a sky full of the same stars feels more stable and right to me than going home to the same place every night. I chose a van because it could park anywhere. I chose a van because the road feels like home to me, and even more so when I carry my home with me like a snail does. I chose a van because structure doesn’t pair well with me. And that’s okay. There’s a life for everyone where they’re happy.

Me and the van at the RTR 2020. Photo by my friends @lindseyanddannyvanlife

What about friends and relationships?

This is a tricky one. When we’re constantly moving, we don’t find ourselves surrounded by the same people all the time, but at the same time, the people we need to be around will find us when we need them the most. I have an amazing van fam who I caravanned with for about a month, and the thing is, people come and go, and moments do too—it’s just a matter of listening to where your soul wants to be and who it wants to be with.

Me and Emma in Sedona. Emma is one of the van fam and you can find her @emma.goes. Photo by our friend Brien @theotherground.

So… in conclusion…

Basically, vanlife for me is finding my freedom. I felt very stifled in school, and like I never really had the opportunity to make friends who truly understood how I felt about certain things, and through full time travel, through the road, I’ve been able to find both of those things. While people are fleeting, I’ve found my community, and while all roads do come to an end, I’ve found my freedom through the movement. I’ve figured myself out, and what I need, and I think that was something that needed to happen for me to progress as a person. Vanlife isn’t just about the van, it’s about the life and what you choose to do with it.

-HWS

I Took a Secret Tour of Joshua Tree

I’ve been to Joshua Tree 5 times in my life, 4 of them in the past year, and 2 of them in the van. This time around I definitely felt as local as you can get in a National Park, but at the same time, I knew there was so much more to discover.

When The Secret Tours reached out to me, I was immediately intrigued—discovering more about a place I’ve been before? Having an excuse to go back? Yes please! So during this trip to Joshua Tree National Park, I participated in a couple of their tours so that I could see a little more of this amazing place I’ve grown to love.

The Secret Tours is a self-guided tour company in the Joshua Tree area, and they have a few different tours to participate in. On this trip, I did the Walking Tour and the National Park Tour, and both were super fun! They combine the idea of a scavenger hunt with exploration and fun facts about the area to make exploring interesting for all types of travelers. My team was made up of me and Transit Connect vanlifer Jared (@Jaredinthevan on insta!), and while it was my fifth time to the park, it was Jared’s first, so taking the National Park tour made for a really cool experience: me discovering new places I hadn’t seen before, and Jared seeing the whole park for the first time.

Don’t climb skull rock unless you know what you’re doing! The view from the bottom is pretty cool too!

All of the tours start at the Joshua Tree Visitor Center in Joshua Tree, California. For the National Park tour, you’ll then go into the park and start discovering new destinations along the road, and answering questions about your observations as you go.

This tour will take you through the entire park, and as far south as the Cholla Cactus Gardens, your clues adding up to one big answer at the end of the tour!

Sunset from Quail Springs

Some of our favorite stops:

Cholla Cactus Gardens- This is an all time favorite of mine, so I was super excited to see it on this tour! This is one of those must-see stops in Joshua Tree, but make sure you experience it right by seeing it with The Secret Tours!

Chollas chillin’ in the Cactus Gardens

The Adventurous Yucca- This is the oldest Joshua Tree, but I won’t tell you where in the park to find it—I’ll leave The Secret Tours to that one! This is a fun spot to hit because at the very beginning of the tour you have to figure out how old it is!

The oldest Joshua Tree… can you guess how old it is? Or, you can go on the tour to find out!

Keys View- Again, I’m not gonna tell you where to find this one, but you can’t really miss the signs pointing you in the right direction! This is a super cool spot that I didn’t even know was here, despite the fact that I’d been to the park 5 times!

Quail Springs- While we experienced this spot at the beginning of the tour, we actually ended up coming back here at the end of the day for the sunset and some rock scrambling, despite the long drive through the park! I loved that this tour showed me some spots worth revisiting, other than my normal go-to’s.

Key’s View! Joshua Tree’s very own Grand Canyon!

For your next trip to Joshua Tree, The Secret Tours should be on your to-do list! They’re a great way to get the lay of the land and experience the entire area in and surrounding the park to the fullest! While the main tour I did while I was in the area was the National Park tour, they also have their walking tour and a longer driving tour around the area that surrounds the park to take you to some cool desert art, alien-related spots, and more! So head on out to the California desert—you might just discover some secrets…

Your Guide to the Southern California Desert

I’ve now pretty much finished Southern California. It’s where I grew up and went to school, so I’ve got a pretty good gauge of its geography. And on top of that, there’s basically no major destination in the southern portion of the state that I haven’t traveled to. There are a few main landscapes in Southern California: from mountains to beaches to deserts. They say it’s one of the only places you can go surfing in the morning and skiing in the afternoon. But a large portion of Southern California is taken up by desert, and a few of these deserts are very worth your visit, while some are just transitional spaces between states (I’m looking at you, Mojave). This is a short guide to the deserts worth seeing, why you should visit, and what there is to do there.

Joshua Tree National Park

Anza Borrego Desert State Park

Anza Borrego Desert State Park is actually known for its correlation with the famous California Wildflower Superbloom that happens in spring seasons that follow winters where we get a lot of rain. While a superbloom is unlikely in 2020, this desert is still worth your visit. It’s the largest state park in the contiguous United States, and touches three counties: San Diego, Imperial, and Riverside. There are also a lot of free campgrounds in Anza Borrego, and you do not need to pay the park entrance fee ($10) to stay in them overnight. You’ve likely heard about Anza Borrego from the Sky Art Sculptures: giant metal sculptures built to work with the landscape or look like they’re a part of it. These sculptures invoke feelings of whimsy, and bring you back to the most childlike parts of your imagination (pictured below).

The Serpent, Anza Borrego Desert State Park

Joshua Tree National Park

I’ve talked about Joshua Tree a lot on this blog, and even have a full guide to the park available HERE, but it needs to be on this list because it’s one of the main desert attractions in Southern California. Home to over 2 million Joshua Trees, a member of the agave family, Joshua Tree National Park is known for rock climbing, photography, and general exploring. It’s a huge park with plenty to do for every kind of traveler. Going with kids? Check out Jumbo Rocks Campground, Skull Rock, and Arch Rock. Adventure Seeker? Go find the Hall in the Hall or Horrors, summit Ryan Mountain, or go scrambling on one of the many rock formations. Just trying to take some good pictures for the ‘gram? Head over to the Cholla Cactus Gardens or stop in any roadside pullout for a good photoshoot with some J Trees! There’s also tons to do in the area, from stopping and grabbing a bomb vegan sandwich and getting some work done at Frontier Café to taking a self-guided tour with The Secret Tours.

Joshua Tree National Park: Sunrise from Belle Campground

Slab City, The Salton Sea, and Salvation Mountain

These spots are important for any SoCal desert tourist, but I honestly can’t see myself going back anytime soon. Salvation Mountain is a famous piece of desert installation art in the middle of Slab City, a strange desert town. It’s definitely worth seeing, and while you’re there, make sure you visit East Jesus—another space for desert art. As for where to stay during your time here, I highly recommend the Salton Sea. It’s close by, but not so close that you’ll feel the general weirdness of the Slabs. The Salton Sea is a huge body of water with a strange history, and the beach is made of fish bones. Just beware—the Salton Sea doesn’t smell its best!

Salvation Mountain, Slab City, CA

The SoCal desert is an incredible landscape that shouldn’t be missed. So many people say they’re coming to California and stop their journey south at Los Angeles, when really, there’s so much to be seen. The desert lies inland, and will give you a much broader scope of what California is made of. The desert is a place of extremes, so you might want to make sure you stock up on water, but also bring your 0 degree sleeping bag with you (don’t have one? Check out my favorite bag HERE!). But above all, make sure you take plenty of pictures—the desert has a certain beautiful magic to it.

10 Tips for Making it Through Long-Haul Road Trips

In my world, I do a lot of driving. In the past year, I’ve put about 20,000 miles under my wheels (in two separate vehicles of course), and while I like to keep my drives short (3-4 hours if possible), there are some days when you just can’t avoid that 6-12 hour long-haul. Doing drives like this to get to a destination can be grueling, especially if you’re solo, so whether you’re a full time vanlifer like myself, or a casual traveler looking to get that road trip fix in this spring, here are my best tips for surviving a day on the road.

Disclaimer: this post may contain affiliate links

My first tiny home, in Badlands National Park, SD

1: Be prepared for time zone shifts

If you’re traveling coast to coast (or in any vaguely horizontal direction, really, if you’re not just road tripping in the states), it’s super important to be prepared to shift in your time zone. This can affect your arrival time greatly, and will affect you more if you’re moving West to East, rather than East to West, since you’ll be arriving an hour later than planned. Keep this in mind when doing any type of long haul drive, so that you can plan accordingly for any way that this might throw off your plans.

Sedona, AZ (photographer: Brien @theotherground)

2: Snacks

Obviously, you can’t have a proper road trip without snacks. But, they’re even more important when you’re putting major miles behind you, especially if you’re driving solo. Calories keep you awake, and sometimes, you won’t want to stop for lunch, especially if you’re trying to make it to a destination by a certain time. I always keep a few snacks with me in the front of the van so that I don’t have to pull over to find something to eat every time I start getting tired.

A favorite healthy snack of mine lately is Bobo’s Oat Bars. They’re vegan, oat based, and super yummy! Pick yourself up a box HERE!

Bobo’s Oat Bars make fantastic road trip snacks

3: Water

As essential as snacks, water is something we often forget about while driving, especially if you’re driving solo. The thing is, being in the car all day singing along to the radio is incredibly dehydrating, and you’ll only get tired faster if your body needs something you aren’t giving it.

If there’s nowhere to fill up my reusable bottle, you’ll nearly always see me sipping on a Surfwater—bottled water packaged in the world’s most recyclable material: aluminum!

Surfwater aka the best water at El Matador Beach in Malibu (photographer: Alex @alx.vu)

4: An amazing playlist

Nearly as essential as food and water, having great, inspiring music to listen to is a must. I have about 10 very similar but very different road trip playlists that I recycle depending on my landscape, but my favorite artists to listen to on the road are: Lord Huron, The National Parks, Frenship, and Mogli. Oh, and the soundtrack from David Attenborough’s Our Planet. Don’t knock it ‘til you try it!

Here are some links to my current favorite Spotify playlists:

Vanlife

The Ultimate Roadtrip Soundtrack

Pacific Coast Highway

Our Planet

The van on Joshua Tree BLM land

5: Take Breaks

I cannot stress this one enough! If you’re traveling solo, please take breaks. This is what rest areas are for, and if there are none, gas stations and truck stops are amazing too. I recommend taking a break every 1-2 hours so that you can breathe, use the bathroom, change your music, make a sandwich, anything! Just take your eyes off the road and your hands off the wheel for 10 minutes. It’ll wake you up and make for a safer and less frustrating drive.

Bison on the road in Yellowstone National Park

6: Be aware of agricultural checkpoints

This might only be a thing in the United States—I’m not sure of agricultural laws in other countries—but if you are driving over state lines in the US, be aware of agricultural checkpoints. This is similar to how you have to declare certain items when you fly into a new country or back into the US. They will ask whether you have any fruits, veggies, plants, etc… in the vehicle, as exposing the local agriculture to those plants could affect the environment. As far as I remember, the only agricultural checkpoints in the continental US are at California entry points.

Hoyt Arboretum, OR. When you drive from Oregon to California, you will be asked if you’re carrying any produce.

7: Comfy clothes

This might go without saying, but driving in comfortable clothes will make all the difference. It’s also important to wear clothes for the weather later in the day. The other day, I drove 6 and a half hours from Tucson to San Diego and while it was freezing in the morning, as soon as I hit the Southern Californian desert near the Mexico border, it was hot and sunny! Considering the fact that my van has no AC, it was important that I drove in clothes made for warm weather so that I wouldn’t need to keep stopping to put on or take off a jacket.

One of my favorite brands of ethical and comfortable clothes is Wholesome Culture. They use organic cotton, water based ink, and donate money to animal sanctuaries for every purchase made. Check them out HERE!

Sporting my favorite Wholesome Culture T-shirt on a hike through Mammoth Cave National Park, KY. It says “There is no Planet B.”

8: Keep an eye on your cell service!

So often during long-hauls we drive into areas with no cell service without realizing it. Especially if you’re unfamiliar with the area, it’s crucial to either download your maps before, carry a paper map (for really remote areas like Montana, Canada, Alaska, and even parts of Utah/Nevada), or make sure that you do not exit your already functioning navigation. As long as you start your navigation in either Google Maps or Apple Maps, it will keep you on track even when you do lose service, but as soon as you exit, you won’t be able to just pull it right back up if you’ve got no bars. When I was driving from Valley of Fire State Park in Nevada to Bryce Canyon National Park in Utah, there was no service for the first hour of my drive, and being my second day on the road, this was incredibly stressful. Make sure you know the general direction that you’re going, and if you can find a Pilot or Flying J truck stop (in the states), go in and ask if they have WiFi so you can download a map—they usually do!

Glacier National Park, MT: one of the most remote places you can drive to. Definitely download your maps before leaving West Glacier!

9: Get off the highway and explore

If you’re not in any rush, why make it a long-haul drive in the first place? Drive in your direction until you find something interesting and then make a little detour. You never know what you might find, and there’s always the chance of an unexpected adventure. Long-haul drives are grueling and unless you have a time limit, unnecessary. Let yourself explore more instead.

One of the best detours I’ve ever made! The Salton Sea, CA. Learn more about this place HERE!

10: Take it all in…

It’s so easy when you’re road tripping to make it about the destination. But the truth is, the journey is often the most fun and beautiful part. Some of my favorite experiences on the road, and my most important revelations have come from the actual driving, not the arriving at my destination. It’s so important to take time to realize the landscapes you’re driving through, the lives of the people in the towns you’re passing by, and really, how small the world is when you really think about it.

Lake Crescent, Olympic National Park, WA

The world is far more connected than we like to think. Nothing is as far away as our maps suggest—really, it’s just one 12 hour drive. Take the time to appreciate the distance, it will make all the difference when it comes to surviving that long drive (oh, and of course, all the other stuff too).

Exploring Tucson's Nature

Saguaro National Park and Mount Lemmon

Generally, I’m the type of traveler who travels for the natural landscapes. I go from National Park to National Forest to State Park and try to avoid cities, but there are a few cities that are so surrounded by nature that exploring their parks has become the main attraction. I didn’t quite realize how engrained in Tucson’s culture Saguaro National Park and Mount Lemmon were until a fellow vanner told me, “There isn’t much to do in Tucson except to visit the national park and drive Mount Lemmon.”

After four nights of weather so cold I had to break out the 0 degree sleeping bag, I finally made it back to the southern part of the state. I had already been planning on visiting the park, but as usual, I didn’t have too much of a plan for my day. I ended up fitting both destinations into my one full day I had in Tucson. Here’s everything you need to know.

**Usually I’d stay a bit longer in a place, but cities are expensive and I have to sleep in parking lots, which can be noisy, so I decided I’d want to stay only for a little bit before heading back to the coast.**

Saguaro National Park: how many different types of cactus do you see here?

Saguaro National Park

There are two sides to Saguaro National Park: the West and the East. Since the East was closer to where I was staying in Tucson and was much closer to Mount Lemmon, I decided that that would be the side I visited during my time there. The West side is a bit out of the way, yet boasts bigger and older saguaro cacti.

East Saguaro has a small park or monument feel (basically, it’s not Yosemite, it feels more like Craters of the Moon). There isn’t too much to do but what there is to see is gorgeous. Since I only had half the day in the park before driving Mount Lemmon, I was recommended to do the Loop Road and walk the Desert Ecology Trail. Between this and getting out of the van to take a few pictures and video with and of the cacti, I felt like I saw the basics of what the park was about.

It’s also worth stopping in that Javelina Picnic Area for lunch, as all the tables are surrounded by desert plants, and it allows you to get up close and personal with the cacti.

Saguaro is a place of desert diversity, and is home to far more types of cactus than just the Saguaro. This National Park is home to 24 different types of cactus, and they’re all incredibly unique.

East Saguaro National Park

Mount Lemmon

If you like saguaros, you’re in luck: the bottom of Mount Lemmon is covered in them—even more than are in the East side of the National Park! Mount Lemmon is known for being a place where you’ll experience all of the different biospheres that you would if you were to drive from Mexico to Canada.

There are five biosphere’s total in this unique National Forest (Coronado National Forest) ranging from Sonoran Desert, to Ponderosa Pines, to Mixed Conifers at the summit. I was so happy to see pine trees again without it being absolutely freezing, so if you’re a mountain person stuck in the desert, this is definitely the drive for you.

Mount Lemmon is also ideal for road cyclists, but be warned: it’s a 27 mile journey to the top!

One of the lower biomes of Mount Lemmon

The entire drive from the bottom to the top of Mount Lemmon takes about an hour and ends at a ski resort. I was unable to go the last two miles to the top because the road had been closed due to snow. Throughout the drive, you’ll pass plenty of roadside pullouts, picnic areas, campgrounds (if you’re into that—I don’t believe any of them are free), and one visitor center that has a museum about the area inside. If you go in the winter, try to go on a warmer day, or a little later in the winter, as there was still tons of snow on the sides of the road.

As close the the summit as they would let me drive, Mount Lemmon, AZ

Tucson was completely full of surprises for me. I of course expected to like the National Park, but I didn’t expect it to be so easily accessible from the city. Mount Lemmon, however, was a total surprise for me—I knew it would be beautiful, but no one expects pine trees in southern Arizona. Basically, don’t take anything at face value—every destination has a hidden gem waiting just around the corner, or maybe, at the top of a summit.

A Vanlife Guide to Sedona, AZ

If you’re a person who lives on wheels, or even just a person who hates winter, it’s no secret that Arizona is the place to be in January. Nearly every person living that vanlife on the west coast (and some from the east!) comes to Arizona at the end of January every year. After the annual gatherings in Quartzite, me and my new Van Fam (follow them at emma.goes and theotherground) headed out to Sedona, a place I’d been dreaming of visiting for about two years now.

Sedona is one of the most powerful spiritual centers in the country, and is home to tons of red rocks and beautiful hikes. Prior to coming out here, I had no idea how easy it would be to be an overlander in Sedona, but the truth is, Sedona is one of the most vanlife friendly cities I’ve ever visited.

Me and Emma at Cathedral Rock. Photographer: Brien @theotherground

Where is Sedona?

Sedona is located in north-eastern Arizona, making it one of the colder areas of Arizona. It is about 7 hours from the California coast, 5 hours from Joshua Tree, and 3.5 hours from Quartzite, AZ.

Where should I park?

As I said, Sedona is incredibly van friendly, but that means it’s incredibly camp friendly too. This isn’t the type of city where vanlifers are lining the streets, it’s a city surrounded by National Forest land. The best spots to park are along Forest Road 525. You’ll be sure to meet plenty of other van dwellers, and if you drive far enough, you’ll reach the Palatki Native American Ruins. You obviously can’t park at the ruins, but there are spots nearby where you’ll have vast views of the red rocks.

At camp, somewhere on FR525. Photographer: Emma @emma.goes

What are the best restaurants?

We frequented two amazing vegan/vegetarian restaurants while we were in Sedona: ChocolaTree and Local Juicery. A few of our friends actually work at Local Juicery, so definitely go say hi and support your fellow vanlifers (plus, their avocado toast is the best I’ve ever had). ChocolaTree is more of a spiritually minded spot. It has more of a sit-down restaurant feeling to it, so it’s worth going if you’re craving a hot dinner.

Where can I get water?

Living off the gird means certain things aren’t as easy as they could be in a house. One of those things is water. Luckily, ChocolaTree has a spigot with fresh spring water outside their restaurant that they allowed us to fill our 6 gallon tanks with.

Me at Devils Bridge—the most famous hike in Sedona! Photographer: Emma @emma.goes

Where can I go to get in a work day?

There’s always Starbucks, but if you’re looking to get in a work day and catch some views, head to Creekside Coffee. Here, you’ll have views of Snoopy Rock, and can snag some WiFi, even outside.

If you’re interested in learning more about making money on the road, check out Wired Creatives HERE!

Cathedral Rock from below

What are the best hikes to do?

If you’ve been following me for a while, you know that hiking is a huge reason I go to certain places. Sedona is a huge hiking hub, so we made it a point to hit a few of the Coconino National Forest trails while we were out there.

Devils Bridge: Devils Bridge is easily the most popular hike to do in Sedona. It features a vast, natural bridge photo op and the entire hike is about 4 miles long. Expect crowded parking, but if you have 4WD, you can make it to the real trailhead and skip walking along the dirt road. If there’s no parking, no worries, you can park on the main road too, but it’ll add about a half mile of walking. Prepare for crowds at the top too. We got lucky with a gloomy day, and only had to wait behind about 6 people each, but normally, it’s a crowd of about 150 people at the top.

Boynton Canyon Vortex: This was one of the most powerful vortexes I experienced in Sedona. It’s not a long hike, but it features red rocks and two spires that are said to represent the divine masculine and divine feminine. If you’re a spiritually minded person, you’ll love this spot, and if you get there early enough in the day, you might just catch the flute player who goes up there daily to hand out heart shaped rocks to people.

Cathedral Rock: This was my absolute favorite spot we went during our time in Sedona. It’s a hike basically made of rock scrambles, which made is extremely fun, and had some amazing photo opportunities at the top. Keep an eye out for the vortex trees—trees that appear to have been swirled (this phenomenon happens due to the high amounts of spiritual energy in the area).

Me and Emma at Cathedral Rock. Photographer: Brien @theotherground

Sedona is an absolutely magical spot. Whether you’re a spiritual person or not, Sedona will change the way you see the desert. The hikes here are breathtaking, the camping is quiet and peaceful, and it’s a great place to feel like you have a sense of community on the road.

Why It’s More Important Than Ever to #LeaveNoTrace

As we go into 2020, welcome a new decade, and watch the birth of the 62nd National Park in the US (welcome, White Sands!), it’s becoming increasingly apparent how important it is to take care of our wild spaces. Climate change is real, it’s happening, and it’s greatly affecting the places we love and the big one we call home: Earth. This means it’s more crucial than ever that everyone do their part to at least reduce your own personal carbon footprint, because, the truth is, but the old adage goes: if you’re not part of the solution, you’re part of the problem, and in 2020, so much is accessible that you’re honest missing out if you haven’t adopted at least one better for the planet habit. Now, I don’t want to get all sad and depressing on you while we welcome this new year. Instead, I want to talk about why Leave No Trace should be trending, and I don’t just mean on the internet.

Note: this post may contain affiliate links

Big Sur, CA

What is Leave No Trace?

The Leave No Trace Principles, or LNT, are guidelines for all people to follow when they’re exploring wild places. They originated in the US, and gained popularity in the public lands (NPS, USDA, and BLM), but could and should be applied to every place on this planet. There are 7 LNT Principles:

1: Plan ahead and prepare

This just goes with the old boy scout saying: always be prepared. This will allow for your own safety as well as the safety and preservation of the land you’re exploring.

2: Travel and camp on durable surfaces

The idea of principal number 2 is to keep you away from areas that could be severely damaged by your footsteps or tent. Of course, this doesn’t always mean you have to stay on trail—and sometimes you simply can’t, but look out to make sure you’re not damaging any of the land you’re walking on.

3. Dispose of waste properly

This one should be a no brainer—throw away your trash! You wouldn’t just leave garbage on the floor in your house, so don’t do it in the woods, desert, beach, or anywhere else either. Better yet: leave it better than you found it—pick up any trash you find on trails or in campsites as well.

If you’re interested in joining an awesome volunteer group with the goal of cleaning our wild spaces, become a Wildkeeper! Applications open on the Keep Nature Wild website this month. (I am not an affiliate of KNW, I just love and support their cause and have worked as a volunteer with them for over a year.)

Me at the Grand Canyon wearing a shirt I got from Keep Nature Wild (you get a huge discount for joining the ambassador/volunteer program too!)

4: Leave what you find

Have you ever heard the saying “take nothing but pictures, leave nothing but footprints?” I think that pretty much sums up principle number 4, and most of them, actually.

5: Minimize campfire impacts

The last thing you want is to start a wildfire. Make sure that your campfire is only in designated areas such as fire rings when you’re camping so that you can prevent any sparks from flying.

6: Respect wildlife

This is a HUGE one. I see so many people approaching animals in National Parks, and it’s not only incredibly dangerous for them, but it also puts the animal in danger. Please keep your distance from all wildlife, and keep dogs and other pets on designated trails to prevent foreign substances (you know, poop) and bugs from affecting local animals.

7: Be considerate of others

Don’t be the person who’s flying a drone in a National Park. While your shot might look cool, you’re ruining the experience for everyone else who came out to be in nature. Make sure that you’re respectful, and try to avoid traveling to busy spots on holiday weekends.

This deer crossed my trail in Voyageurs National Park, Minnesota. I patiently waited for him to return to the woods before I continued hiking.

Why LNT is so important in 2020

Especially with tourism in our natural spaces being at an all time high, it’s more crucial than ever to leave these spaces better than we found them in order to preserve them for more generations to come. That way, California will still have its oceans, Montana will still have its Glaciers, and the Grand Canyon will still be just as beautiful, even years down the line.

Grinnell Glacier, Glacier National Park, MT. If you look closely you can see the waterfall of melting ice on the right hand side.

What other ways can I help respect my wild spaces?

I’m glad you asked! There are so many ways you can help protect nature at home. Aside from practicing LNT when you’re outside, you can definitely reduce your carbon footprint in your everyday life. Here are some of my favorite ideas:

Don’t buy products with plastic if you can avoid them (shop zero waste products here!)

Shop second hand or ethical clothing (check out one of my favorite ethical clothing brands, Wholesome Culture)

Eat plant based as much as possible (January is a great time to make the switch to a vegan lifestyle!)

Support brands that support our planet when you do need to buy new stuff, like Madera Outdoor, Eco Roots, and larger companies like REI.

Responsible tourism: make sure that when you travel, you’re not impacting the communities you’re visiting in any way, and maybe even find a way to volunteer.

Unplug, go off the grid, run off solar, do whatever you can in your everyday life that makes sense for YOU!

The planet’s tallest trees in Redwood National and State Parks, CA. Let’s plant more in 2020.

Being kinder to our planet is incredibly crucial when it comes to having a cleaner Earth. And this goes much further than simply picking up your trash (but please don’t stop doing so!). It has to do with simply being respectful of our natural places, and doing our part to make our own impact as insignificant as it can be. Making sure that we’re being kind to wildlife, other visitors, and the land we walk on is the best way to make sure that we start taking care of this planet the right way, and truly “leave nothing but footprints.”

Your Guide to Carlsbad Caverns National Park

Carlsbad Caverns is one of my favorite southern national parks. Located in Southern New Mexico, just minutes from the Texan state line, Carlsbad Caverns is found in the Chihuahuan Desert, and was formed by sulfuric acid and limestone.

This is a small park, and it doesn’t have a campground. Because of that, there are only a couple things to do in the park, but that doesn’t make them any less spectacular.

Carlsbad Caverns is home to two of the most unique experiences I’ve had in national parks, and I’ve been to 33 of them. I went with my family during the section of my summer trip that they met up with me for, and we stayed in Carlsbad at a nearby hotel. This was my dad’s second time in the park, and the good news is, it hasn’t really changed much, so let’s head out, and explore what Carlsbad Caverns has to offer.

Inside the cave!

Camping

As I said before, Carlsbad Caverns doesn’t offer a campground inside the park. The good news is, one of its nearby parks does offer camping in an amazing little campground near the tallest peak in Texas—Guadelupe Mountains National Park. Camping here is $15 and you’ll have easy access to all of this park’s trails as well.

Tips for visiting

Carlsbad Caverns is one of the most accessible national parks for tourists. There are a lot of parks that require hiking in order to see the park’s beauty, but in Carlsbad Caverns, you’ll be able to experience everything this park has to offer on its paved walking trail.

While this park doesn’t require an admission fee, you do need to pay to enter the cave. Because of this, I highly recommend investing in an America the Beautiful Pass, Military, or Senior interagency pass for your admission, especially if you plan on camping in Guadelupe Mountains and visiting any other national parks in the country within the same year. Without a pass, everyone over age 16 is $15 for entry, but the pass will get a family of 4 in for free.

Sunset from the visitor center in Carlsbad Caverns National Park

Seeing the cave

I’ve visited a few caves around the country, and while Carlsbad Caverns isn’t the largest (Mammoth Cave, KY is), it’s definitely the most spectacular (in my opinion). There are two ways to enter the cave. If you’re not a hiker, I’d highly suggest taking the elevator. It’s a 700 foot journey into the earth, and you’ll be able to take your time exploring the cave’s paved path by foot. If you want to hike in, that is also an option, but know that the cutoff for admission to hike is 5 pm MST in the summer.

When in the cave, please stay on the paved path, and don’t touch the cave!

Ranger-led tours

If you want a more immersive experience when it comes to viewing the cave, you can sign up for a ranger-led tour. You can reserve your spot on a tour through the Carlsbad Caverns official website. Tours will take you through different areas of the cave, depending on how involved of a tour you want to do, and tours cost between $7 and $20 without a senior access pass.

The bat flight program

Every night at sundown, people gather in the park’s amphitheater to watch the bats leave the cave. This event is actually the way that Carlsbad Caverns was discovered in the first place. Around exactly the same time every night, the bats leave the cave to feed for the night, and it’s a spectacular sight you don’t want to miss.

Tip: bring food into the park. The park restaurant closes at 6 in the summer, but the bats don’t leave the cave until 8, so you might get hungry while you wait.

The view of the New Mexico desert from the visitor center

Carlsbad Caverns is a fantastic small national park. There isn’t a ton to do, but what there is to do is absolutely mind-blowing. If you’ve never seen a cave, this is a great place to start, but be warned, this one will raise your expectations for all caves you’ll visit after.

Another place to add to your list: MAMMOTH CAVE NATIONAL PARK

Mammoth Cave has over 600 miles of explored cave in the middle of Kentucky. It is the largest cave yet to be discovered in the world, and is free to enter the park. The cave is $6 to enter, and there is camping available in the park.

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To visit Carlsbad Caverns, Mammoth Cave, and more, check out my ebook, Around the States in 90 Days!