United States

Where to Explore in (and around) Bend, OR

If you’re at all familiar with the Pacific Northwest, you’ve probably heard of Bend. To me, it’s the mountain version of Sedona. It’s surrounded by National Forest Land, and everyone here recreates outdoors, from river surfing to climbing. It’s a city that welcomes vanlifers, and has some of the best nature in Central Oregon right on its doorstep.

We had the chance to spend about a week in Bend while we waited for our new dog, Lassen to be able to get his shots, so we took advantage of our time there, and explored every corner. These are the top 3 things to do in and near Bend, OR.

Tumalo Falls

Tumalo Falls is located closest to the downtown area of all the spots on this list. It is part of a busy recreation area in the Deschutes National Forest that follows a stream of waterfall runoff. When we were there, the road to the actual parking area was closed, but it was a short and easy 2.5 miles of road hiking to the falls. Once you get there, there are three viewpoints, a mid-height one that you’ll see first, an easily accessible top of the falls view, and a more hidden trail to beneath the falls (where you might get a bit wet!).

Tumalo Falls is dog and family friendly and welcomes people recreating as hikers and mountain bikers. There is a $5 fee to park in the main parking lot if the road is open (but I believe they accept the America The Beautiful Pass as well).

On the way to Tumalo Falls

On the way to Tumalo Falls

Smith Rock State Park

Smith Rock State Park is easily one of the most popular things to do in Bend, OR for hikers and climbers. When I asked what people suggested in Bend, this was the first thing to come up. I’d been here once last summer as well when I was driving the Lower 48, but because we had the new dog with us, I knew it would be a good choice, since the park is dog friendly. At Smith Rock, there is a $5 day use fee (and they do not accept Interagency Passes like America The Beautiful as they are a state park).

Smith Rock is known for its towering rock spires, winding Crooked River, and its over 1000 sport climbing routes. Needless to say, as a hiking/climbing couple, we had to at least check it out. Smith Rock is a desert, though, and currently, due to a public health safety law, all water fountains in the park are turned off. Please make sure you prepare for hot weather and bring more water than you think you need.

Smith Rock State Park

Smith Rock State Park

Crater Lake National Park

While Crater Lake isn’t specifically in Bend, Bend is the closest big city north of the park. The National Park officially reopened on June 6, 2020, and currently, the only parts of the park that remain closed are due to weather. Crater Lake is the ninth deepest lake in the world, and the deepest in the United States, so even if the trails are closed due to snow, it’s not impossible to get a grand view worthy of the photo albums during your trip to Crater Lake.

Until the snow melts, only Crater Lake’s West Rim Drive will be open, as well as the Rim Village gift shop. Even though this is only 13 miles of road, it will give you the best and closest views of Wizard Island and the nearby mountains in the distance.

Read more about Crater Lake in my full guide to the park. Click the button below to read!

Crater Lake National Park at the end of its winter season

Crater Lake National Park at the end of its winter season

Bend, OR is one of the most outdoorsy towns in the Pacific Northwest. It’s known for its outdoor sports, rivers, and nearby parks. And on top of that, it’s incredibly dog and van friendly! So next time you’re passing through Oregon, make sure you stop and take a hike—the view is worth it.

The Three Best Woodlands to Explore Along the West Coast

The West Coast of the US is full of wonder. There’s no question why this is one of the top road trip destinations for Americans this summer. But the truth is, there’s so much more to the west coast than just the stunning coastline, brilliant rock formations, and potential whale sightings. The West Coast is home to some of the most unique forests and woodlands in the country, with tons of diversity stretching from Central California all the way up to the Olympic Peninsula in Washington.

(I’m defining these as woodlands to get rid of any confusion with National Forests, which are often just referred to as Forests by campers.)

These are the top three woodlands to explore on your next road trip up (or down) the West Coast!

See the tallest trees in the world at Redwoods National Park in California

See the tallest trees in the world at Redwoods National Park in California

Sequoia National Park, CA

Let’s start this journey in Central California, in the Western Sierras. Sequoia National Park is home to the world’s largest trees, including the General Sherman Tree, which is thought to be one of the oldest trees in the world. These trees are known for their wide trunk diameters and towering heights. The National Park is home to stunning wildlife such as black bears and marmots, and on a trip through the General’s Highway, you’ll be introduced to huge trees, hidden waterfalls, and beautiful views to hike to.

Sequoia National Park is connected to its sister park, Kings Canyon via the Sequoia National Forest, so you’ll have plenty of time to see this forest of massive trees between the two parks.

Explore the largest trees in the world at Sequoia National Park in California

Explore the largest trees in the world at Sequoia National Park in California

Redwoods National Park, CA

High up in Northern California, located along the coastline, is Redwoods National and State Parks. Contrary to what most people think, Sequoia is not home to the world’s tallest trees. Instead, that secret spot is the Redwoods. These trees are skinnier than Sequoias, but don’t let that fool you! The Big Tree, one of the top attractions in the park is 23.7 feet in diameter (and 286 feet tall!).

Redwoods National and State Parks is just that—a mix of National and State Park land, which means there’s plenty to do for any traveler, no matter how long you want to spend there. You’ll likely see some elk in the woods and meadows and some seals in the ocean during your trip.

For a full guide to Redwoods National Park, click the button below!

Redwoods National Park is a hiker’s heaven

Redwoods National Park is a hiker’s heaven

Hoh Rainforest, Olympic National Park, WA

Olympic National Park is a unique one all on its own, but did you know it’s also home to the only temperate rainforest in the US that you can drive your car into? The Hoh Rainforest is one of the most biodiverse places in the country, and it is made distinct by the fact that the forest itself creates its own weather system.

While Olympic is known for its unique set of landscapes, the Hoh Rainforest truly stands out as one of the most distinct. It is home to multiple species of moss, banana slugs, and larger animals like bears. It is one of the only places in the country where you can experience a landscape as unique as this one.

For a full guide to Olympic National Park, click the button below!

Explore the only temperate rainforest you can drive to in Olympic National Park, WA

Explore the only temperate rainforest you can drive to in Olympic National Park, WA

Trees are something that really define the West Coast, almost as much as the ocean does. With so many unique species of trees along these states, you truly can’t go wrong with a road trip to any of these destinations. You’ll be guaranteed to not only see Sequoias and Redwoods, but also Ponderosas, Spruces, and more. So keep your head high and your views higher—I’ll see you in the trees!

Interested in living on the road full time but don’t know where to start? Check out my ebook: A Beginner’s Guide To Living As A Nomad by clicking on the button below!

Your Guide to Redwoods National and State Parks

With National Parks starting to open up again, I’ve been seeing quite a few questions about driving the California Coast. Not only is Redwoods National Park one of my favorite California National Parks, but its easily in my top two for spots to stop along the Coastal Highway. I’d even go as far as to say that it’s in my top ten National Parks I’ve visited so far, which is a lot to say, considering I’ve visited 35, some more than once.

Redwoods National and State Parks is a unique National Park. It’s what I would classify as a “small park,” a park with no true entrance station that is interspersed with towns, and state park land. The cool thing about this Park though is that it is so connected with the surrounding state parks. Some trails are run by the National Park Service, while some trails belong to the state parks. But don’t worry—the state parks here do accept the America The Beautiful Pass, one of the only places in the country to do so.

This is your complete guide to the park—it’s one of the more confusing ones to navigate! But don’t worry, you’ll be out and exploring as soon as you finish reading.

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Somewhere along the Skunk Cabbage Trail, Redwoods National and State Parks, CA

Somewhere along the Skunk Cabbage Trail, Redwoods National and State Parks, CA

About the Natural Landscape:

Redwoods National and State Parks is home to the world’s tallest trees. A lot of people think that Sequoia is the place to go for towering trees, but the truth is, it’s here, right on the coast of California. This Park is easily one of the most biodiverse forests I’ve ever been in, second only to the Hoh Rainforest in Washington State.

Here, you’ll find two distinct landscapes: forest and rocky coast. Both are worth exploring while you’re there. In the area, you’ll also find plenty of freshwater lagoons and creeks to splash around in!

And if you’re short on time, don’t worry—so much of the park is just across the highway from something totally unique and different (and I’ll cover a day trip itinerary further down!).

Wildlife:

There is quite a bit of wildlife in the area, both small and large. Keep your eyes peeled for banana slugs on your hikes and whales in the coastal sections! But also make sure you’re mindful of larger land mammals too: elk, deer, bears, and mountain lions also live in the area.

Plants to watch for:

Of course, Redwoods is known for its plants, but there are a couple to watch out for on your hikes! Salmonberry trees have thorns that can hurt if they prick you, and cow parsnip lines many of the roads and trails. Cow Parsnip can cause burning and blisters, so it’s best to avoid it! The area is also home to poison oak, so long pants on longer, less developed hikes is key.

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Along the Lady Bird Johnson Trail, Redwoods National and State Parks, CA

Along the Lady Bird Johnson Trail, Redwoods National and State Parks, CA

Know Before You Go:

As with all National Parks, there are a few things you should know before planning your trip to Redwoods. First, this is land owned both by the National Park Service and the California State Parks. This means that different areas have slightly different rules, but here are a few general guidelines you can follow:

Pets:

Dogs are always a bit tricky when it comes to National Parks. As a rule, in Redwoods NPS, dogs are not allowed on any park trails, but many of the beaches in the area are dog friendly, including those located in the state parks. Areas where pets are allowed include: Klamath River Overlook, Redwood Creek Overlook, developed campgrounds, Freshwater Beah, Gold Bluffs Beach, Crescent Beach, Cal Barrel Road, and Walker Road (dirt roads that can serve as good alternatives to trails with your pup!).

Entrance fees:

While the park itself is completely free to visit, there are areas that require a pass or fee to enter. These areas include Gold Bluffs Beach/Fern Canyon, which are part of Prairie Creek Redwoods State Park and Jedediah Smith Campground Day Use Area. Both are either $8 USD or the America the Beautiful Pass.

Skunk Cabbage Trail, Redwoods National and State Parks, CA

Skunk Cabbage Trail, Redwoods National and State Parks, CA

Visitor Centers:

There are a few visitor centers you can look for as resources for information when inside the park, especially since many areas in the park lack cell service.

If you are coming from the south, the Thomas H Kuchel Visitor Center might be best! It is located on the beach just off the 101 and only a mile South of Orick, CA.

If you are looking for a visitor center surrounded by cool trails, the Prairie Creek Visitor Center will be best. It is located along the Newton B Drury Scenic Parkway just north of Orick, CA.

If you are coming from the north, hit Hiouchi Visitor Center. It is the northernmost visitor center in the park, closest to Crescent City, CA.

Elk hanging out near the Prairie Creek Visitor Center

Elk hanging out near the Prairie Creek Visitor Center

Trails Worth Hiking:

Redwoods is a very hikable park and is a very accessible park to those who aren’t experienced hikers. There truly is a trail for everyone in the park, and there really aren’t any that are too steep, which makes this a fun park full of distance hikes, coastal trails, and short, scenic trails perfect for new hikers or families.

One of my favorite trails I’ve ever hiked (not just in the Redwoods, but in general) is the Coastal Trail Skunk Cabbage Section. This hike is about 7 miles round trip if you go all the way to the beach and it’ll take you through some of the most unique wilderness in the park. Here, you’ll find impressive plants: from Salmonberries, to the trail’s namesake, Skunk Cabbage, to the towering Redwoods themselves. You’ll also find a plethora of wildlife, from banana slugs to black bears. The trail peaks at a private beach perfect for having a relaxing lunch mid-hike.

Around the Prairie Creek Visitor Center, you’ll find miles and miles of trails. Have a ranger come up with a fun route for you that combines a few of the scenic trails or find your way using a trail map, which you can get at the Visitor Center. In this area, if you only have a couple hours, definitely don’t pass up the Big Tree. It’s only a mile and a half from the visitor center parking lot.

Along the Cathedral Trees Trail near the Prairie Creek Visitor Center

Along the Cathedral Trees Trail near the Prairie Creek Visitor Center

For families looking to get a short hike in, I’d recommend the Lady Bird Johnson Trail. It’s stunning, has a wide path, and will let you get up close an personal with some Redwoods without going off trail. This was honestly a highlight of my last trip to the Park.

For anyone looking for a fun adventure, head on over to Fern Canyon (this is one of the areas requiring a fee). This unique trail follows a creek through a long vertical canyon covered in ferns. Get ready to get your socks wet, and make sure you head to Gold Bluffs Beach after!

Up close and personal with some Redwoods on the Lady Bird Johnson Trail

Up close and personal with some Redwoods on the Lady Bird Johnson Trail

Where to camp:

There are four developed campgrounds in Redwoods National and State Parks. It is highly recommended that you make a reservation before heading to the park if you plan to frontcountry camp. You can camp in Jedediah Smith Campground, Mill Creek Campground, Elk Prairie Campground, and Gold Bluffs Beach Campground. There is also backcountry camping available with a free permit. Information about permits is available at the visitor centers.

What is there to do that doesn’t involve hiking?

There’s plenty to do in Redwoods National and State Park that doesn’t involve hitting the trails. See the Big Tree via the wayside rather than the trail, drive along the Newton B Drury Scenic Parkway, or view elk at the Prairie Creek Visitor Center.

If you want a relaxing day at the beach, head to Freshwater Beach or Gold Bluffs Beach. Look for tidepools at False Klamath Cove!

That being said, many of the trails in the park aren’t too difficult, so this might be a good place to get out of your comfort zone a bit!

Freshwater Beach, Redwoods National and State Parks, CA

Freshwater Beach, Redwoods National and State Parks, CA

I only have one day in the park, what should I see?

While you won’t have time to do everything, there are a few things I consider easy must-sees for Redwoods. Driving the Newton B Drury Scenic Parkway is an absolute must for anyone heading to the park for the first time. This is also a good opportunity to see the Big Tree and spot some elk near the Prairie Creek Visitor Center. Not too far from there is Gold Bluffs Beach, so that you can experience some of the coastal sections of the park. This beach is down a narrow and windy road, but I did it in my 17-foot long campervan! And while you’re there, you might as well hike Fern Canyon too!

If you’re heading South from there, don’t skip Lady Bird Johnson Trail, and if you’re heading north, the drive through Jedediah Smith State Park is gorgeous!

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The trees in Redwoods are like nowhere else

The trees in Redwoods are like nowhere else

Redwoods National and State Parks is easily one of my favorite California National Parks. The gateway to the Pacific Northwest, it’s a must for anyone looking to drive up the coast this summer. So, strap on those hiking shoes, make sure you have plenty of gas in the car, and get ready for a wild coastal adventure!

Looking to plan a giant road trip that includes Redwoods National and State Parks? Check out my ebook in the shop to help you plan your very own 48 state road trip!

Where To Go This Summer to Beat the Crowds

With so many people planning domestic travel for 2020, an overwhelming amount of travel questions these days have to do with road tripping. It seems to be the method of travel people are preferring this summer, with air travel feeling simply out of the question. No matter what, a road trip full of National Parks might sound incredibly enticing.

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As someone who lives full time on the road, I’ve been able to see the world of road travel evolving with COVID-19 firsthand. And with Parks reopening, it’s becoming clear that some parks are going to be far more crowded than others.

Getting outside this summer might just seem like the ideal way to social distance while still getting to see something new, and you’re right! As campgrounds begin to open and visitor centers increase access, this is a great way to learn about nature, get to see some beautiful scenery, and voyage to somewhere new. The thing is, some parks are far more crowded than others. This year, I could definitely see parks limiting capacity at the gate, so here are some alternatives to the Lower 48’s most popular National Parks.

While one of the most popular parks, Wyoming’s Yellowstone is one that’s already drawing crowds. Keep reading to find out where to head instead.

While one of the most popular parks, Wyoming’s Yellowstone is one that’s already drawing crowds. Keep reading to find out where to head instead.

Instead of Yosemite, try Kings Canyon!

This California park has everything Yosemite has except Half Dome and El Cap. Here, you’ll find similar giant rock monoliths, dense Sequoia forests, and lots of wildlife. It’s also adjacent to Sequoia National Park, so you can check off two parks at once! Kings Canyon is perfect for scenic drives, hiking, waterfall chasing, and wildlife viewing, and it’s perfect for anyone who wants Yosemite’s natural landscape without the crowds the popular park brings in.

From the Mist Falls Trail in Kings Canyon National Park (2018)

From the Mist Falls Trail in Kings Canyon National Park (2018)

Instead of Grand Canyon, try Bryce Canyon!

While Bryce Canyon and the Grand Canyon are fairly different (and Canyonlands might have more of that classic canyon feel—but I only recommend spots I’ve personally visited), Bryce Canyon in Utah is one of the most unique landscapes in the US. It’s full of hoodoos—giant rock formations that look like strange sandcastles. It is definitely less trafficked than the Grand Canyon, so you’ll be more likely to have a distanced Rim hike here than at the natural wonder in Arizona.

Bryce Canyon’s Hoodoos are like nothing else in the country

Bryce Canyon’s Hoodoos are like nothing else in the country

Instead of Yellowstone, try the Grand Tetons!

Of course, the Tetons aren’t an active volcano like Yellowstone, and you won’t find the Grand Prismatic Spring here, nor will Old Faithful erupt for you, but the truth is, Yellowstone is easily one of the most crowded National Parks I’ve ever been to. Just south of Yellowstone, likes the Grand Tetons, a range in the Rockies just overshadowed by its volcanic northern brother. The Tetons has some of the best mountains views you’ll ever get, and has tons of lakes to explore if you like kayaking or paddleboarding. The Grand Tetons are a hiker’s paradise, and you’ll be just as likely to see bison here as in Yellowstone.

The Grand Tetons at sunset in June 2019

The Grand Tetons at sunset in June 2019

Instead of Mount Rainier, try the North Cascades!

Mount Rainier is one of the most popular National Parks on the west coast. With towering mountains and melting glaciers, there are few parks like it, but if you’re looking to avoid crowds, you might consider hitting North Cascades instead. This is a small park interspersed with Forest Land, but it’s stunning, and it’s one of the most dog friendly parks in the country. You will have to do a bit more hiking to see cool sites here, though, so pack your hiking shoes!

From the top of the very strenuous Thornton Lakes Trail in North Cascades National Park

From the top of the very strenuous Thornton Lakes Trail in North Cascades National Park

Instead of Badlands, try Theodore Roosevelt!

The Badlands is a stunning landscape that usually symbolizes the reason people travel to the Dakotas in the first place, but its grassy counterpart in North Dakota is often overlooked. Theodore Roosevelt National Park is a highly underrated spot a few hours north of South Dakota’s Badlands, and is home to bison, prairie dogs, and more, and is also known as one of the least visited parks in the country.

Theodore Roosevelt National Park’s unique landscape

Theodore Roosevelt National Park’s unique landscape

Never planned a road trip before? Click HERE for all my tips on how to survive long haul trips on the road!

When it comes to traveling post-pandemic, sticking to domestic travel might be the best option for a while. And that’s okay! There are plenty of amazing sites right in your own backyard, it’s just a matter of knowing where to look.

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My Top 3 Wildlife Encounters From the Road

One of the most frequent questions I get about National Parks is “where can I see bears?” Wildlife is one of my favorite parts of travel, and in the US, where I’ve done the majority of my travels in the past couple years, there is so much wildlife to see, nearly everywhere you turn. From bison to bears, from bald eagles to seagulls, every landscape has its iconic animal residents, and I’ve encountered quite a few unique furry, feathered, and scaly friends over the years. These are my top three wildlife encounters, and where you can see some of the best!

Note: Please do not approach wildlife. Always leave 25 yards of distance between you and a wild animal, unless the animal approaches you. Even then, use caution.

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While not on this list, this one almost made the cut: a deer encounter on a trail in Voyageurs National Park

While not on this list, this one almost made the cut: a deer encounter on a trail in Voyageurs National Park

The Armadillos in Congaree

This is one of my favorite animal encounters I’ve ever had because A) armadillos won’t kill you (unless you lick them—they carry leprosy!) and B) I was with some little cousins of mine and they were completing their first Junior Ranger Program.

In Congaree National Park, South Carolina, there is tons of wildlife to be seen, from snakes, to spiders, to one lone and invasive crocodile. Even if you don’t want to do an extensive hike, you’ll see plenty of unique animals just outside the visitor center on the boardwalk trail. This trip was special because I was looking at everything on the boardwalk from a child’s perspective as I helped my cousins (about 9 and 4 years old) look for animals and plants to check off their Junior Ranger checklist. Toward the end of the boardwalk, we saw quite a few people gathered by the side of the trail, and to our surprise, we noticed 3 armadillos just waddling about! They had gotten really close to the boardwalk, so we were able to safely observe them without disturbing their territory (at Congaree, staying on the boardwalk is key!).

Learn more about Congaree and the other East Coast National Parks HERE!

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While I wasn’t able to get a picture of the Armadillos, here’s a great reason to visit Congaree. To see a video of them, though, head to my Congaree highlight on my Instagram

While I wasn’t able to get a picture of the Armadillos, here’s a great reason to visit Congaree. To see a video of them, though, head to my Congaree highlight on my Instagram

The Bison in Yellowstone

Yellowstone is ideal for wildlife viewing. Almost nobody visits the park without seeing a bison (or getting caught in a traffic jam—which I’ll explain in a minute). Yellowstone is home to wolves, elk, grizzly bears, bison, and so much more. It truly is the pinnacle of the old American West. If you’re looking to see some incredible wildlife, head out to the park’s Lamar Valley (and if you don’t want to make the trek, don’t worry, you’ll see plenty of animals during your trip).

I only got to spend one night in the park, and stayed at Canyon Campground (which will forever remain one of my favorite campgrounds in the US). On my second day in the area, when I was going to head to Grand Teton National Park, I got up around 6 am, hoping to be on the road before the day’s tourists showed up. I stopped by Artists Point and Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone, and was greeted by one lone bison on the side of the road. This was a cool experience in itself, but I was surprised to turn the corner as I exited the canyon and find a herd of about 20 bison grazing near the road. I stopped to take a picture (from inside my car), and they proceeded to surround me in a classic Yellowstone traffic jam. Talk about morning rush hour! After about five minutes, they dispersed, and the entire time, I was the only one on the road.

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The bison herd in Yellowstone

The bison herd in Yellowstone

The Bear in Yosemite

The other stories in this post are just cool, stunning interactions I had with animals, but this one is the reason I always try to tell tourists, “You don’t want to see a bear.” Yosemite is teeming with wildlife. It’s an incredible park full of towering cliffs and animals around every corner, but it’s important to remember that National Parks are not zoos or amusement parks—when we visit National Parks, we are in another creature’s home.

Yosemite is home to black bears. Black bears are slightly less dangerous than brown bears and grizzly bears, which you’ll find in the Rockies (I have seen two grizzlies though, but they were far away). Black bears are small, like the size of a large dog, but since I was visiting in November, they were on the hunt for food, as they were going to be hibernating soon. Because of this, a ranger came around to each site in Upper Pines campground, where I was staying, to tell us what to do if we did encounter a bear in the middle of the night. You’re supposed to say, “bear bear bear Bear Bear BEAR BEAR,” and keep getting louder to scare them off. Of course, you forget all of that when you’re actually faced with a bear.

It was about 10 degrees that night, and I lay in my dad’s old sleeping bag. I was new to tent camping still, and after this trip, I invested in my own 0 degree bag. After the ranger left, we had all gone through our tents and cars (Yosemite bears can break into cars), and since I had nothing in my tent that would smell like food, I felt fairly safe sleeping in active bear country with only a piece of fabric separating me from the outside world.

When camping in bear country, make sure that everything that smells like food is put away in your bear box, bear canister, or bear bag. You can also string your food up in a tree if backpacking. Some parks are less of a worry than others, and you can keep food in your car, but check with a ranger or camp host first.

Around 4 am, I woke up to snarling. Something huge was sniffing at our bear box, which I was camped maybe 10 feet from. I lay still, and quiet—the opposite of what you’re supposed to do, and I swear I remember hearing this bear walk right by me. Holding my breath, I just hoped she would go away, and after a few more seconds of sniffing at the bear box, she ran off into the woods.

It was dark, so I couldn’t snap a picture of the bear, but here’s a reason to visit Yosemite

It was dark, so I couldn’t snap a picture of the bear, but here’s a reason to visit Yosemite

Wildlife is simply one of the best parts about traveling in the national parks. Every state has such unique animals, and getting to know the nature of each spot is what makes everywhere so special. Check out some of my favorite spots for viewing wildlife below, and start planning your next road trip!

For bison: Badlands National Park, Theodore Roosevelt National Park, Yellowstone National Park, Grand Teton National Park

For bears: Shenandoah National Park, Yosemite National Park, Sequoia National Park, Glacier National Park

For deer: Glacier National Park, Shenandoah National Park, Voyageurs National Park

For lizards and snakes: Joshua Tree National Park, Grand Canyon National Park, Bryce Canyon National Park

For interesting insects: Joshua Tree National Park, Congaree National Park, Hot Springs National Park

For big horned sheep: Glacier National Park

For pronghorns: Badlands National Park, Bryce Canyon National Park

For mountain goats: Glacier National Park

For elk: Yellowstone National Park, Grand Canyon National Park, Redwoods National and State Park

For sea life: Olympic National Park, Redwoods National and State Park

If you’re interested in planning a giant trip around the country that includes most of the parks listed here, check out my ebook, Around the States in 90 Days in the SHOP!

A Complete Guide to Glacier National Park

Glacier National Park in Montana is truly one of those treasures that can’t be missed in the Lower 48. From its sprawling landscapes to its abundant wildlife, there’s nothing not to love about Glacier. It’s truly my favorite place in the entire contiguous United States. For people who haven’t visited, it often tops their National Parks bucket list, and for those who have been, it’s often a destination they’re trying desperately to revisit. Glacier National Park is a special place, and one that should be visited with care, to protect its rapidly changing natural landscape.

Because Glacier is such a large National Park, with multiple sections, I’ve found that it’s a bit intimidating to people who either haven’t been or who aren’t incredibly familiar with the National Parks System. This blog is here to answer your questions, and to be your essential guide as you plan your first trip to the park.

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The view from the Logan’s Pass Visitor Center area

The view from the Logan’s Pass Visitor Center area

Know Before You Go

First, let’s cover the basics. Glacier National Park is located in northern Montana, on the Canadian border. You can cross into Canada from Glacier easily, to explore the Waterton Lakes area. Glacier is located in the center of multiple small towns, including Babb and Whitefish, and bordered on one side by National Forest. On the east side of the park, you’ll find the Blackfeet Indian Reservation of Montana. Due to the proximity of these towns and the preserve, it is important to enter the park with respect.

To enter Glacier National Park for one week, you will be charged a $35 entrance fee per car, or $25 in the winter, when the Going to the Sun Road is closed. I highly recommend investing in an America the Beautiful Pass or other interagency pass if you plan on visiting more than 3 National Parks in one year.

Dogs are allowed in the park, but are not allowed on most trails. They can visit the park in front country campgrounds, picnic areas, roads, parking areas, and in boats. Dogs must be on a leash no longer than 6 feet, and cannot visit the backcountry, lakeshores, or inside visitor centers. If a road is closed to vehicles due to winter weather, it is considered part of the backcountry.

Along the Hidden Lake Overlook Trail

Along the Hidden Lake Overlook Trail

Wildlife

Glacier is home to some of the most abundant wildlife in the country. This Park is largely wilderness, which makes it the ideal place to spot incredible animals, such as deer, black bears, grizzly bears, mountain goats, big horned sheep, and elk. It is also home to more elusive animals like pikas, bats, lynx, mountain lions, and wolverines. This truly is the ideal place to spot wildlife in their natural habitat, and I was lucky enough to see mountain goats, black bears, grizzlies, deer, and big horned sheep during my visit. It’s important to view wildlife here safely, though, and remember, wildlife is wild!

It is not recommended that you visit the park without someone in your party carrying bear spray, which can be purchased at the visitor centers, and any shops in the park. Bear spray is a one-time use deterrent equivalent to a large canister of pepper spray. It is to be used to defend yourself against a bear (usually a grizzly), in the case of danger. Do not spray a bear who is minding their own business, and do not use bear spray indoors or on a person.

Two deer in my site at Rising Sun Campground

Two deer in my site at Rising Sun Campground

When should I visit?

The only time of year you will be able to experience all of Glacier National Park is in the summer. During the winter, the main roads are closed. Keep in mind that winter in northern Montana can range between late September and late June, and no one knows when the Going to The Sun Road will open for the summer season—it all depends on weather.

The best and most popular month to visit is July, since there is still a considerable amount of snow on the mountains. However, I visited in late August, and there was still plenty of beauty to be seen!

Wildflowers blooming in late August in Glacier National Park, MT

Wildflowers blooming in late August in Glacier National Park, MT

Should I stay in East or West Glacier?

This is one of the most common questions when it comes to planning a trip to Glacier National Park. So, which is better? East or West Glacier?

Glacier National Park is divided into three sections, and two of those sections—East and West Glacier—are connected by the Going to the Sun Road, which I’ll cover later in this post. When it comes to which side to visit, my answer is: visit both, if possible! If not, due to weather or time, I would say East Glacier is home to most of what people picture when they picture visiting Glacier National Park.

St. Mary’s Lake in East Glacier

St. Mary’s Lake in East Glacier

West Glacier is largely forested, and won’t provide you with the views that East Glacier has. However, it is incredibly peaceful, and is a great place to stay if you’re looking for some quiet. It is also home to the only visitor center with legitimate cell service (Agpar Village), so if you need to call home, it might be worth making a stop here. As far as trails in West Glacier, they aren’t quite as impressive as the ones in East Glacier, but they are still worth checking out. The one that should definitely be on your list is Trail of the Cedars, a family friendly short trail that will allow you to get up close and personal with some of the Park’s largest flora.

East Glacier is home to many of the views people want to see during their trip, which is why I suggest heading here if you’re short on time. This is where you’ll find lakes, tall mountains, waterfalls, and views of the valley. You’ll also find a few more amenities in East Glacier, such as WiFi at the St. Mary’s Visitor Center, and a restaurant and motel at Rising Sun. This is also where you’ll find boat parking, and day parking for vehicles over 21 feet.

One of the many beautiful wooded views in West Glacier

One of the many beautiful wooded views in West Glacier

What is Many Glacier?

Many Glacier is the third section of the park, and truly one of the most spectacular. To access Many Glacier, you definitely need a car, as the park shuttle doesn’t go here. During 2020, the road to Many Glacier will be under construction, so be prepared for traffic and limited parking. There is also the option to hop on a boat from East Glacier, but this is not ideal for budget travelers.

You will have to show your entrance receipt or pass again when you enter Many Glacier.

Many Glacier is home to the Park’s main hotel, as well as some of the most famous sites in the park: Iceberg Lake and Grinnell Glacier. It’s important to remember that reaching these sites is not for everyone—you will be at elevation, and they are only accessed by trail.

Many Glacier is definitely one of my favorite sections of the park. It’s wild, largely untouched, and home to one of the last true glaciers in the continental US. This is also where I saw my first grizzly bears.

Grinnell Glacier, one of the most beautiful places in Many Glacier

Grinnell Glacier, one of the most beautiful places in Many Glacier

What is the Going to The Sun Road?

The Going to The Sun Road is one of the key parts of a full experience in Glacier National Park. This 50 mile long road will take you from East Glacier to West Glacier, and is only fully accessible to vehicles less than 21 feet long and park shuttles.

Driving this road is not for everyone. It is incredibly windy in the alpine section, and usually crowded. To beat crowds, I suggest hitting the road as early as 6 am. Here, you’ll find overlooks, pullouts, and three visitor centers with unique views and wildlife viewing opportunities. I suggest stopping at each exhibit, and making a whole day out of this unique drive.

My number one tip for experiencing the Going to The Sun Road is to take the shuttle, specifically if you plan on stopping in Logan Pass, the highest elevation on the road. There will not be parking at Logan Pass, as it is the most popular spot in the park, and the site of the High Line trailhead. If you do take the shuttle, when riding from Logan Pass to East Glacier, make sure you sit at a far-right window at least once—this is the best way to get views into the deep valleys below, but definitely isn’t for anyone afraid of heights!

The view from the Going to The Sun Road, heading East

The view from the Going to The Sun Road, heading East

There are also private tours of the Going to The Sun Road. If you would like a guided tour, check out the Red Bus Tours, which are not affiliated with the National Park Service.

Please keep in mind that the road is closed during the winter season, which can range anytime between September and late June, so it is best to plan a summer visit.

The view from the Going to The Sun Road heading West at 6am in late August: A Valley Filled With Clouds

The view from the Going to The Sun Road heading West at 6am in late August: A Valley Filled With Clouds

What can I see in the Park without hiking?

Glacier truly is a hiker’s paradise, but if you’re not a hiker, or aren’t physically able to do so, there is plenty you can still experience. The Going to The Sun Road is going to be your best bet for views comparable to those you might see on one of the Park’s longer hikes, and you can see Jackson Glacier from one of the first stops (coming from East Glacier). This is a great spot to stop and take pictures, but truly, any of the pullouts will do—Glacier’s views can’t be beat!

One of Glacier’s many waterfalls, as seen from a pullout along the Going to The Sun Road

One of Glacier’s many waterfalls, as seen from a pullout along the Going to The Sun Road

What are some family friendly hikes?

If you are traveling with kids, rest assured that there are plenty of hikes with good views that are ideal for families. While the park is a hiker’s paradise, there are quite a few trails that are short, or have little elevation gain (or both!). The first one I’d suggest checking out is the previously mentioned Trail of the Cedars in West Glacier. This magical spot is perfect for families with really young kids, as it does have a boardwalk, allowing those with strollers to experience these magnificent trees.

Another great family friendly hike in Glacier National Park is St. Mary’s Falls. These glacial waterfalls run bright blue, and the entire hike to see all three falls is less than 3 miles (out and back).

The first waterfall you’ll encounter along the St. Mary’s Falls Trail

The first waterfall you’ll encounter along the St. Mary’s Falls Trail

The last family friendly hike in Glacier that I’d highly recommend is a bit harder because it does gain some elevation, but the view is rewarding. At Logan Pass, you’ll find the Hidden Lake Overlook trailhead. This is the first section to a much longer hike (Hidden Lake), but this part is fairly easy for kids (I saw plenty on the trail). The trail is mostly made of man-made steps, and the peak will give you a spectacular view that can’t be beat. This is also where I saw my first ever mountain goats!

When traveling with kids, it’s important to give them the chance to learn and have fun. Pick up a Junior Ranger booklet at any visitor center, and help them earn a badge they can proudly wear throughout their trip.

View from the Hidden Lake Overlook Trail

View from the Hidden Lake Overlook Trail

Is visiting Logan Pass worth it?

Logan Pass is the highest point of elevation along the Going to The Sun Road, at over 6,000 feet. It truly is not something that should be skipped, and is key to having a full Glacier experience. Logan Pass is probably what I would consider the main visitor center, as it is exactly halfway between East and West Glacier. It is home to the Hidden Lake trailhead, as well as the High Line trailhead, and is integral to the shuttle system, as it is the only place you can transfer shuttles to get to West Glacier (the East Glacier shuttles are too large to go through the alpine section). Logan Pass is key to how the park runs, so make sure you don’t skip it!

In terms of that shuttle transfer, make sure you ask what time the last shuttles leave, and what time you should be back at Logan Pass to make it to East Glacier. The shuttles do stop running before sundown, and if you miss them, your only option will be to hitchhike back.

One of the many views near Logan Pass

One of the many views near Logan Pass

What hikes should be on my list?

If you are a hiker, Glacier is the ideal park for you. Apart from backcountry experiences, which you can read more about on the park website, there are two main hikes that you cannot miss during your trip to Glacier.

Disclaimer: please do not attempt without bear spray.

Located in Many Glacier, you’ll find the Grinnell Glacier trail. This 12.8 mile round trip hike will take you through some of the most beautiful landscapes in the park, under a small waterfall, and to one of the last standing glaciers in the continental US. This is a very difficult hike, and it’s recommended that you start early in the morning to find parking and beat the crowds. If you’re not sure of your ability, there are paid ranger-guided hikes that will take you up this trail and to the glacier. This is a hike to try and do as soon as possible. The glacier is melting fast, and will continue to do so due to global warming.

For eco-friendly (and glacier friendly) gear, products, and apparel, check out Madera Outdoor, Eco Roots, and Wholesome Culture, three companies here to make a difference.

Top of the Grinnell Glacier Trail

Top of the Grinnell Glacier Trail

The other must-hike trail in Glacier National Park is known as the High Line, which connects to The Loop. The High Line itself is a 16 mile out and back ridge hike that is not for the faint of heart—you will be on cliff edges for part of this hike! Most people connect the High Line to The Loop, a downhill trail that will make your trip an 11 mile one-way trip, rather than 16 miles out and back. The Loop, however, doesn’t have much to see, and will be 3 miles of steep downhill (so if you are prone to knee injuries, you might want to opt for the longer trip). The High Line is a spectacular hike with stunning views that will take you to a view of the other side of Grinnell Glacier. Here, you’ll see pine forests, towering mountains, and wildflowers. This is a very popular hike, and I would suggest heading out as early as possible. Since the trailhead is at Logan Pass, it is recommended that you take the first shuttle to the trail, rather than drive.

For either hike, make sure you have the right gear, including a rain layer.

One of the views you’ll catch on your way to Grinnell Glacier

One of the views you’ll catch on your way to Grinnell Glacier

Where should I stay?

There are tons of options when it comes to where to stay in Glacier National Park. One of the best ways to truly experience the park is to camp. While a few of the campgrounds to require reservations (Many Glacier, St. Mary’s, and Agpar), plenty are also available on a first come first served basis, and there are quite a few backcountry campgrounds available as well. On the west side, Avalanche is a good campground to stay in, due to its proximity to East Glacier. This is a great way to experience the West side of the Park at night, and have a shorter ride to the East side and Logan Pass during the day.

My favorite spot in Glacier is Rising Sun Campground. This campground is located in East Glacier, just 6 miles from the St. Mary’s Visitor Center. It is fantastic for solo travelers, and has its own shuttle stop. A stay at Rising Sun will also put you close to one of the park’s only restaurants, as well as a general store and pay showers. It’s also got one of the most unique sunrise views in the park, so make sure you get up early!

For camping in Glacier, I highly recommend using a 0 degree sleeping bag, no matter what time of year it is—it does get very cold at night. THIS is my favorite 0 degree bag, from Madera Outdoor.

There are also a few hotels and motels in the park, located at Rising Sun (East Glacier), Agpar Village (West Glacier), and Many Glacier. These are great options if you’re not into camping, or if it is simply too cold out to do so.

If you’d like to stay outside the park, there are options for that as well. On the West side of the park, you’ll find the town of Whitefish, Montana, an adorable little mountain town home to plenty of shops, restaurants, hotels, gas stations, and a hostel.

The sunrise in Rising Sun Campground

The sunrise in Rising Sun Campground

Glacier National Park is truly one of the treasures of the United States. No matter where you’re from, you should add it to your list, so that you too, can experience its incredible views, wildlife, and rapidly changing landscape. Glacier is unique, and is one of the largest and most popular National Parks in the United States, so let’s hit the road, and head out to the very north of Montana, to see what’s left of the United States’ true wilderness.

Top 10 Things to Do In Philadelphia

When it comes to cities I’ve visited in the US, Philadelphia stands out to me. While New York gets all the hype, and Los Angeles is a summer tourist destination not to be messed with, Philadelphia is easily one of my favorite big cities in the Lower 48.

I visited Philadelphia in the summer of 2018 with my mom and grandparents following a family reunion in Lancaster, PA. While I’m definitely more of a nature girl, I’m also all for saying yes to new experiences, and since Philly was a city I had never been to, I jumped at the chance to go.

Philadelphia truly is the City of Brotherly Love. My mom and I spent the majority of the trip wandering the city streets, and compared to most cities, we felt very safe as a couple of very small female travelers relying on Google Maps for directions. People were incredibly kind, and the tourist attractions didn’t feel super touristy to me. While there’s plenty to do in Philly, here are the things you absolutely can’t miss during your time there.

Itinerary info: This is based on a 5 day trip. All of these activities can easily be fit into a week or less, depending on your travel style.

Standing in front of a fountain at the Philadelphia Museum of Art

Standing in front of a fountain at the Philadelphia Museum of Art

Art:

When I visit a big city, one of the main things I like to do to get acquainted with its culture is to visit its art museums. Philadelphia has so many museums, it would be impossible to visit them all in one trip, but these Philadelphia art museums truly stand out.

Philadelphia Museum of Art:

Even if you’re not a fan of art, this museum deserves a spot on your Philadelphia itinerary due to its pop culture significance. This is the spot you’ve been looking for if you’ve been trying to figure out where the Rocky Steps are! Outside this huge museum, you’ll find a statue of Rocky himself, and the steps he runs up in the movie, so don’t be afraid to reenact that famous scene (plenty of people will be doing it).

If you are into art, however, it’s definitely worth a trip inside the museum. This spot reminds me of a combination of the Louvre in Paris and the Getty Center in Los Angeles. This huge building is home to many different styles of art, and is so large, you can easily get lost in its hallways.

Admission to the Philadelphia Museum of Art is just $25 for adults and offers senior and student discounts.

The Barnes Foundation:

If you’re a fan of Impressionist or Post-Impressionist art, The Barnes Foundation is the art museum for you. This smaller Philadelphia museum is perfect for an after-lunch stroll through the halls, and includes multiple rooms full of unique art by your favorite artists (think Van Gogh). This beautiful museum also includes an on-site restaurant and gift shop, and was voted the #1 museum in Philadelphia.

Admission to the Barnes Foundation costs $25 for adults and offers senior and student discounts.

The Rodin Museum

This was one of the spots I was most excited to visit during my trip to Philly because it is one of the only museums in the world to house Rodin’s famous statue: The Thinker. Closest to many of the museums located in Europe, this sculpture museum is home to many of Rodin’s famous pieces, and is one of the only places in the world to see a collection this vast of his work.

Admission to the Rodin Museum is based on a Pay What You Wish principle, but it is suggested that adults pay $12 admission, with student and senior discounted suggested prices. There is also an option for a two-day ticket that gets you into multiple museums in the area.

Running up the Rocky Steps is a rite of passage in Philly!

Running up the Rocky Steps is a rite of passage in Philly!

History:

If you’re visiting Philadelphia, it’s important that you visit at least one place of historical significance so that you can truly get the idea of this city’s foundations. While the city has plenty to see in terms of historical significance, the one spot you cannot miss during a trip to Philadelphia is actually run by the National Park Service, and is known as one of the smallest National Park Service Sites in the country.

The Liberty Bell at Independence National Historical Park

Seeing the Liberty Bell is easily one of the most iconic things to do in Philadelphia. Formerly the State House bell, the Liberty Bell is now located in Independence Hall. This bell has existed as a symbol of Philadelphia since 1751, and took on further historical significance as a symbol of liberty in the 1830’s. Here, you can learn about the city’s history with abolitionists, women’s suffrage, and civil rights, and read the words on the bell for yourself: “Proclaim Liberty Throughout All the Land Unto All the Inhabitants Thereof.”

Admission to Independence National Historical Park is free. This is one of the best things to do in Philadelphia for budget travelers.

You haven’t been to Philly if you don’t take your picture with the Liberty Bell

You haven’t been to Philly if you don’t take your picture with the Liberty Bell

Culture:

While you might think that no US city could have the culture cities in other countries have, the truth is, each city has its very unique rhythm worth experiencing.

Explore:

My mom and I did a lot of walking during our time in Philly. Truly, walking the streets just looking for interesting things to do is one of the best ways to dive right into a new city. We found unique parks this way, as well as bookshops, statues, and coffee shops.

The Love Statue:

One of the most iconic symbols of Philadelphia is the Love Statue. Known as the City of Brotherly Love, you can’t visit this iconic American city without a picture in front of this quirky statue, located in Love Park. This statue was created by Robert Indiana in 1976, and was briefly taken down in 1978 before popular demand brought it back. Now a symbol of the city, you can’t travel to Philly without seeing this symbol on t-shirts, postcards, and more.

Reading Terminal Market

Easily one of the most bustling places in Philadelphia, the Reading Terminal Market is an indoor street market full of restaurants, food vendors, and souvenir shops. Here, you’ll find merchants selling everything from full-on meals, fresh fruits and veggies, and kitchen essentials, and its fast-paced rhythm is sure to pull you in as you experience this little corner of Philadelphia for yourself.

The Love Statue truly is a symbol of Philadelphia

The Love Statue truly is a symbol of Philadelphia

Vegan Food:

I am vegan, so I will not promote any restaurants directly that support animal cruelty. The good news is, these spots are so tasty, anyone would love them (and you might not even be able to tell the difference!).

Hip City Veg

Hip City Veg is one of the best convenient vegan restaurants I’ve ever been to. Located only in Philadelphia and Washington DC, Hip City Veg was so good, we had to go back a second time, and I even ended up buying a souvenir t-shirt from them. This vegan spot is known for burgers, salads, and milkshakes, and my mom and I made a huge point to order different things every time so that we could try more of their amazing menu.

Tip: Make sure you get a milkshake, and ask if they can do half chocolate and half vanilla (they can, but it might not be on the menu!). Also their Kale Lemonade is to die for!

V Street:

If you’re looking for a nice sit-down restaurant to indulge in during your time in Philadelphia, this is the spot for you. V Street is a share-style restaurant where you order multiple small plates, which come out one at a time, and share them with your table. The service here was absolutely amazing, and we loved everything we ordered. They even brought us an extra dish when we said we were visiting from California!

Grindcore House:

A little off the beaten path, this was one spot we had to take a Lyft to because it was just a little too far from our hotel. Worth the extra miles, Grindcore House is a cute little hole-in-the-wall coffee house that specializes in vegan coffee and pastries. The staff was awesome about recommending the right milk for the drinks we ordered, and the punk atmosphere makes for one of the most unique Philly experiences we had while in the city.

Coffee and pastries at Grindcore House, Philadelphia, PA

Coffee and pastries at Grindcore House, Philadelphia, PA

Getting Around:

Philadelphia is a fairly walkable city. We walked nearly everywhere we went, as nothing was too far from our hotel, which was in the center of the city. The streets are a bit confusing at first, but you’ll quickly get the hang of it, and Google Maps is your friend!

Lyft and Uber are also available for any spots that are just a little too far to walk, and there is public transport as well, although we found we didn’t need it during our time there.

Another option, if you don’t want to walk, is to take a tour bus. Now, this is not my favorite way to see a city, but it’s great if you’re traveling with young kids or grandparents who might not be able to walk as far. All of the art museums are part of the hop on hop off bus route, and you’ll get a fairly comprehensive tour of the city when you take one of these buses as well.

Modern art at the Philadelphia Museum of Art

Modern art at the Philadelphia Museum of Art

When planning a visit to Philadelphia, there are a few things you just can’t miss. From Independence National Historical Park to amazing food, and unique culture, the City of Brotherly Love has a little something for every type of traveler. But don’t hesitate to just let the sidewalks tell you where to go—letting your soul do the wandering is half the fun!

How to Truly Experience New York City

I know what you’re thinking: me? Not writing about a National Park or natural space? Weird, right? Well, this week, in one of the many travel groups I’m in on Facebook, someone asked for recommendations for New York City. And after writing all of my favorite spots out for her, I realized, wow, I’ve been to New York a lot and could probably write something about this.

Disclaimer: I am in no way encouraging travel during COVID-19. Please use this as a reference for all trip planning and daydreaming during this time. Thanks!

I’ve visited New York city so many times since I was a kid, I’ve honestly lost count. My first trip there was when I was about 8 years old, and my last one was during my solo road trip this past summer. In between that, it was a mix of New Year’s Eves spent with family in Upstate New York with interspersed day trips into the city, and a cross country train trip I took with my grandma from LA to NYC the year I graduated high school.

So, I think I know my way around fairly well at this point. These are my must-sees, for a well-rounded trip that’ll show you everything this city has to offer.

The New York City Skyline, as seen from the Empire State Building

The New York City Skyline, as seen from the Empire State Building

The High Line and Chelsea Market

The High Line is awesome. Attached to the famous and quirky Chelsea Market, an indoor market with people selling all types of food at established shops, the High Line is an elevated sidewalk above the streets of the city. It’s beautifully decorated with plants and benches, and serves as a small, incredibly unique park above the city chaos.

MoMA and Starry Night

One of my favorite experiences in NYC has been to the Museum of Modern Art. When I visited New York with my grandparents that summer after finishing high school, I was very into art, especially the impressionists and post-impressionists. The one thing I wanted to do in the city was visit art museums, and out of the ones we visited, MoMA will always be my favorite. The reason for this is, on the top floor, lives Vincent Van Gogh’s Starry Night. Now, I had no idea that my favorite painting ever created was housed here, and I almost didn’t go up to the top floor. I didn’t even notice it at first. I was just looking at other famous paintings by other artists I loved, and turned the corner to see a crowd in front of a painting I could only see the corner of. That corner was enough, and it quickly became a highlight of my trip. A stranger took my picture in front of the painting (should’ve known back then I’d grow up to love solo travel), and now it’s one of my top things I recommend you do when you visit NYC for the first time.

Little Italy, NYC

Little Italy, NYC

The Strand Bookstore

The Strand is another super unique thing I experienced on that trip a few years ago. I was a writing major in college, so a lot of city excursions for me throughout those younger years included trips to cool bookstores. The Strand was actually a surprise element my grandma came up with when planning that trip back east. It’s the largest bookstore in the city, and its size is honestly impressive, even if you’re not a big reader.

Inside The Strand Bookstore, NYC

Inside The Strand Bookstore, NYC

The Friends Fountain

Friends is one of the most popular TV shows across generations. During the time of that huge trip after high school, I was big into Friends, so in addition to those museums, I needed to go find the Friends Fountain in Central Park (you know, the one from the theme song). It’s not too hard to find and I’m 90% sure it’s on Google Maps, but you will definitely get a good tour of Central Park while you look.

The Empire State Building

I had to throw some touristy stuff in here. You simply can’t go to NYC without seeing the Empire State Building. And yes, it’s worth the hype. It was on my bucket list for a while to go to the top, so when the opportunity arose, I jumped on it. Sometimes you have to just say yes to things—who knows when you’ll get the chance again? So, I rode the elevator to the top, which was terrifying, but the views are worth it.

Me at age 18, in front of the Friends Fountain in Central Park, NYC (2016)

Me at age 18, in front of the Friends Fountain in Central Park, NYC (2016)

Ellis Island and the Statue of Liberty

You thought I’d get through this list without mentioning a National Park. Ellis Island is an incredibly important historical stop. I always make a point to learn about the place I’m visiting when I travel, and since I actually had ancestors come to the states through Ellis Island, this was one of our excursions during one of those early trips to New York. Seeing the Statue of Liberty is a cool experience for travelers of any age, and the ferry ride over will make this a day trip to remember.

The American Museum of Natural History

So, we’ve all seen Night at the Museum, yeah? An absolute classic, according to mine and my brother’s generations. Well, in New York, you can experience the museum for real. The Museum of Natural History is one of my favorite spots in NYC. You can truly spend an entire day here, and it’s budget-traveler friendly because they do have a “pay what you want” option for admission. You can explore all of the regions of the world, and journey into the prehistoric past with the dinosaurs. It’s truly one of the most interesting spots in the city for adults and children, and something no one should miss.

A beautiful NYC sunset

A beautiful NYC sunset

Honorable Mentions:

Chinatown: great food, and a different side of the NYC culture you won’t get anywhere else.

Little Italy: stop here for gelato, food, or just to walk around and appreciate some street art.

Vegan Restaurants:

By Chloe- one of the more famous plant-based spots. Make sure you get their take on the classic Hostess Cupcake before you leave!

Peacefood Café- a great little vegan spot with wifi, fresh food, and good service. They also carry plenty of delicious baked goods, so don’t leave empty-handed!

What you can skip…

There’s really only one thing on this list: Times Square. I absolutely hate Times Square. Maybe it’s because I’ve been so many times I feel like a local, but I personally find it overrated, crowded, and dirty. It’s just a tourist trap full of shops you can find elsewhere in the city. While there are some fun things for kids here (like M&M’s world), it’s definitely not a spot you have to visit to say you’ve experienced New York. But if you’re insistent on seeing it, go for it! Everyone’s opinions are different, and maybe you’ll find a hidden gem there I haven’t discovered yet.

Getting around:

New York is a cool experience for any type of traveler, but I highly recommend not renting a car, or if you’re a vanlifer, driving in at all. Rely on public transport as much as possible, and walk when you have no other option. The Subway is really easy to navigate, and taxis, while more expensive, are everywhere. Plus, it’s not a real trip to the Big Apple if you don’t hail a taxi at least once, right?

A healthy dinner from Peacefood Café in NYC

A healthy dinner from Peacefood Café in NYC

New York City is a bucket list destination for so many people. It’s a unique spot that kind of defines the word “city” for a lot of travelers, and is full of plenty of amazing and incomparable experiences. From history to art to the quirkiness of the city itself, there is so much more to do there than is even on this list—these are just my personal tips. The Big Apple is a must if you’re a city lover, so make sure you don’t miss these spots, and of course, try to find your own hidden gems along the way.

Your Guide to Our Public Lands

During my time on the road, I’ve spent a lot of time on public land. From my slight obsession with the National Park Service, to using BLM and Forest Land to park my van overnight, I’ve experienced just about every type of public land there is in the United States. The thing is, all these terms can get confusing, and I’ve seen it happen more than once where state parks and BLM land are mistaken for National Parks. Each type of public land is vastly different, has different rules and expectations, and are run by different sectors of the government. This is a complete guide to exploring public land in the United States.

Dispersed camping on BLM land in California

Dispersed camping on BLM land in California

National Parks

National Parks are easily the most popular and the most commonly referenced public land in the US. Many people believe that all public land is Park Land, which is an easy mistake to make. I used to think the same thing! But really, National Park only refers to the 419 sites run by the National Park Service. This includes sites with “Park Status” such as Yosemite, the Grand Canyon, and Yellowstone, as well as National Monuments (Devils Tower), National Military Parks (Gettysburg), National Historic Parks (Harper’s Ferry), and other natural sites, such as National Lakeshores, Recreation Areas, and Seashores.

The National Park Service (NPS) is my personal favorite because they truly go out of their way to protect their land. National Parks are zones free from hunting, lumber, fishing, and more, and are solely used for recreation, conservation, and education.

Bryce Canyon National Park, UT

Bryce Canyon National Park, UT

Camping is only allowed in National Parks if you are in a developed campground. Lots of NPS campgrounds can be reserved in advance, but some are first come first served, so check on the Park’s website before visiting. Backcountry camping is allowed, but like with all public lands, you must have a permit.

Most National Parks require an entrance fee to visit, and this can range from $20-35 depending on the park. I highly suggest purchasing an America the Beautiful Pass if you are planning on visiting more than 3 National Park Service sites per year.

Glacier National Park, MT

Glacier National Park, MT

National Forests

While the word “national” often means National Forests get lumped in with National Parks, they are vastly different from each other. The main difference is that National Forests are run by the United States Department of Agriculture (USDA), not the NPS. National Forests are not necessarily actual forests. They often don’t actually have trees! They’re just called forests by the USDA. Oftentimes, National Forests surround National Parks, and they’re recognizable by their brown and yellow welcome signs.

National Forests are always free to visit, as they often surround roads and highways. You will, however have to pay to camp in most developed campgrounds, and sometimes there is a parking fee for trailheads and picnic areas. An America the Beautiful Pass will waive parking fees for National Forests, but not camping fees.

Cathedral Rock, a trail maintained by one of Sedona, AZ’s many National Forests

Cathedral Rock, a trail maintained by one of Sedona, AZ’s many National Forests

The USDA is very different from the NPS in the way that they protect their land. Often, people can secure fishing or hunting permits in National Forests (but, please don’t. You know, respect nature). The USDA will use parts of National Forests for lumber farming, so land is not as protected in a National Forest as it is in a National Park.

The main plus-side of National Forests is something I discovered in the vanlife community, but anyone who camps often will benefit from this as well. National Forests usually allow dispersed camping: camping in undeveloped areas. This means you can park off of just about any dirt road in the Forest, and camp for free, so for overlanders and car campers, this can be a great way to never have to pay for a place to stay during a long road trip. Disclaimer: check the USDA website for the Forest you are in to check if there are any specific dispersed camping regulations in the area.

Fun Fact! The USDA and National Forest sector of our public lands is home to the only National Grassland in the prairie region of the United States. The Sheyenne National Grassland is located in North Dakota and it is absolutely gorgeous and unexpected if you happen to be going through the middle of the country.

Sheyenne National Grasslands, ND

Sheyenne National Grasslands, ND

State Parks

Believe it or not, people often also confuse State Parks for National Parks. State Parks are incredibly different from National Parks. State Parks are not run by the federal government like the other public lands on this list. State Parks are run by their state’s specific state government, so their rules and laws depend on those of the state, versus those of the federal government. State Parks are often smaller (other than the beautiful Anza Borrego Desert State Park in CA), and all of them require entrance fees averaging at about $10 across the country. The America the Beautiful Pass will not grant you entrance to a State Park (believe me, I’ve tried, many times), and instead, you must purchase a state parks pass for each separate state you visit.

State Parks include State Forests, State Historic Parks, and State Beaches, and we can just go ahead and lump County Parks and similar in this category as well.

Valley of Fire State Park, NV

Valley of Fire State Park, NV

BLM Land

BLM Land is one of the most confusing concepts for most people. BLM Land is not run by the National Park Service, or the Department of Agriculture, but is instead run by a completely different sector of the United States Federal Government—the Bureau of Land Management.

BLM Land is mostly for camping, rather than other types of recreation. While BLM Land does have developed campgrounds, it’s most often referred to when speaking about dispersed camping. Just like National Forest developed campgrounds, BLM Land developed sites do usually have a fee, and are usually first come first served. Dispersed sites can be found on the sides of secondary (dirt) roads, and are usually unmarked.

Parked on BLM Land in Alabama Hills, CA

Parked on BLM Land in Alabama Hills, CA

Disclaimer: Dispersed camping in both National Forests and on BLM Land is not for everyone. While “free” might sound enticing, these spots have no facilities, no water, and no bathrooms. You must properly dispose of waste (trash and… you know), and Leave No Trace whenever using these sites.

LEARN LNT PRINCIPLES HERE

While public land is everywhere, it is a concept that usually confuses people. Not all public land is the same, and it’s important to know the difference before you go out and use any of it. But the main thing to remember, as with all public land, it’s important to be respectful. Do some extra research on specific destinations prior to visiting, and leave sites the way you found them. Safe travels!


Looking to plan a road trip that takes you to public land sites in the US? My 3 month, 48 state road trip route is now available in the SHOP!

Vanlife During COVID-19

The coronavirus has completely turned the world as we know it upside down. I first heard about it when I flew back from Laos in January, and since then, I’ve moved into my new rig (my 1997 Dodge Ram conversion van) full time. Traveling full time since June has been a blessing, but as the COVID crisis continues to escalate in the US, it’s left me wondering: what about us?

Vanlifers and full time road-dwellers are growing in population, and while many people aren’t hitting the road right now due to the virus, there are quite a few of us still on the road, living full time in our vehicles. These stay at home orders are necessary, but they fail to include people who don’t have a solid home base, and who, instead, travel in their homes.

Working from home

Working from home

For vanlifers, public land is a necessity. We do not just use it for recreation, outdoor sports, or even “camping.” We rely on public lands to be able to live in our homes when we have no other options (and of course, sometimes, for fun). It was expected that the National Parks would shut down, and it was expected that developed campgrounds would slowly close their gates to stop weekend warriors, snowbirds, and other people trying to vacation away from the virus. But lately, BLM and Forest land has been threatening closures too, and for those of us who live on the road, I have to ask the question: where are we supposed to go?

My van, in Alabama Hills, CA

My van, in Alabama Hills, CA

Jared (@jaredinthevan) and I are lucky, in that we are still in the same state that my family lives in, so if worst came to absolute worst, it wouldn’t be impossible for us to turn around, and head back south, and be safe. But the fact is, our vans are our homes, and we want to be able to stay in our homes just like everyone else. So, in the event that all public land closes, many people will be facing a huge dilemma.

While stealth camping in cities is usually an option, in the attempt to avoid human contact, cities are out of the question, and we’d like to avoid small towns so that we don’t risk spreading the virus to gateway communities. Ideally, we’d like to continue self-isolation on BLM land where we can have little to no human interaction whatsoever.

Mine and Jared’s vans, isolated on public land

Mine and Jared’s vans, isolated on public land

I’ve noticed quite a bit of insensitivity to this matter recently. People who do not follow me are commenting on my posts telling me to stop using public land for “recreation.” People are making snap judgements of full time vanlifers, telling them to go home when they might not have a place to rely on. I personally would prefer to not reach the worst case scenario of going to my parents’ house because I don’t want to risk exposing my family (especially as I have a brother who falls into the vulnerable category), and I don’t want to take their resources either, especially since toilet paper in the cities is a completely extinct species.

It’s important to practice compassion in this time, and that includes for people who live alternative lifestyles. Everybody’s lives just got turned upside down—let’s support each other, and help people living on the road quarantine safely, instead of making life harder for a unique group of people.

-HWS

Resources For Full Time Vanlifers

If you are on the road and need a place to stay, there are still open public lands, but check on the BLM website first before heading out.

iOverlander users have mentioned COVID in a couple of their reviews, so keep an eye out for that!

There is also an amazing list of people with extra land in the US who are willing to host vanlifers who need a place to stay. You can find that list HERE!