california

Where To Go This Summer to Beat the Crowds

With so many people planning domestic travel for 2020, an overwhelming amount of travel questions these days have to do with road tripping. It seems to be the method of travel people are preferring this summer, with air travel feeling simply out of the question. No matter what, a road trip full of National Parks might sound incredibly enticing.

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As someone who lives full time on the road, I’ve been able to see the world of road travel evolving with COVID-19 firsthand. And with Parks reopening, it’s becoming clear that some parks are going to be far more crowded than others.

Getting outside this summer might just seem like the ideal way to social distance while still getting to see something new, and you’re right! As campgrounds begin to open and visitor centers increase access, this is a great way to learn about nature, get to see some beautiful scenery, and voyage to somewhere new. The thing is, some parks are far more crowded than others. This year, I could definitely see parks limiting capacity at the gate, so here are some alternatives to the Lower 48’s most popular National Parks.

While one of the most popular parks, Wyoming’s Yellowstone is one that’s already drawing crowds. Keep reading to find out where to head instead.

While one of the most popular parks, Wyoming’s Yellowstone is one that’s already drawing crowds. Keep reading to find out where to head instead.

Instead of Yosemite, try Kings Canyon!

This California park has everything Yosemite has except Half Dome and El Cap. Here, you’ll find similar giant rock monoliths, dense Sequoia forests, and lots of wildlife. It’s also adjacent to Sequoia National Park, so you can check off two parks at once! Kings Canyon is perfect for scenic drives, hiking, waterfall chasing, and wildlife viewing, and it’s perfect for anyone who wants Yosemite’s natural landscape without the crowds the popular park brings in.

From the Mist Falls Trail in Kings Canyon National Park (2018)

From the Mist Falls Trail in Kings Canyon National Park (2018)

Instead of Grand Canyon, try Bryce Canyon!

While Bryce Canyon and the Grand Canyon are fairly different (and Canyonlands might have more of that classic canyon feel—but I only recommend spots I’ve personally visited), Bryce Canyon in Utah is one of the most unique landscapes in the US. It’s full of hoodoos—giant rock formations that look like strange sandcastles. It is definitely less trafficked than the Grand Canyon, so you’ll be more likely to have a distanced Rim hike here than at the natural wonder in Arizona.

Bryce Canyon’s Hoodoos are like nothing else in the country

Bryce Canyon’s Hoodoos are like nothing else in the country

Instead of Yellowstone, try the Grand Tetons!

Of course, the Tetons aren’t an active volcano like Yellowstone, and you won’t find the Grand Prismatic Spring here, nor will Old Faithful erupt for you, but the truth is, Yellowstone is easily one of the most crowded National Parks I’ve ever been to. Just south of Yellowstone, likes the Grand Tetons, a range in the Rockies just overshadowed by its volcanic northern brother. The Tetons has some of the best mountains views you’ll ever get, and has tons of lakes to explore if you like kayaking or paddleboarding. The Grand Tetons are a hiker’s paradise, and you’ll be just as likely to see bison here as in Yellowstone.

The Grand Tetons at sunset in June 2019

The Grand Tetons at sunset in June 2019

Instead of Mount Rainier, try the North Cascades!

Mount Rainier is one of the most popular National Parks on the west coast. With towering mountains and melting glaciers, there are few parks like it, but if you’re looking to avoid crowds, you might consider hitting North Cascades instead. This is a small park interspersed with Forest Land, but it’s stunning, and it’s one of the most dog friendly parks in the country. You will have to do a bit more hiking to see cool sites here, though, so pack your hiking shoes!

From the top of the very strenuous Thornton Lakes Trail in North Cascades National Park

From the top of the very strenuous Thornton Lakes Trail in North Cascades National Park

Instead of Badlands, try Theodore Roosevelt!

The Badlands is a stunning landscape that usually symbolizes the reason people travel to the Dakotas in the first place, but its grassy counterpart in North Dakota is often overlooked. Theodore Roosevelt National Park is a highly underrated spot a few hours north of South Dakota’s Badlands, and is home to bison, prairie dogs, and more, and is also known as one of the least visited parks in the country.

Theodore Roosevelt National Park’s unique landscape

Theodore Roosevelt National Park’s unique landscape

Never planned a road trip before? Click HERE for all my tips on how to survive long haul trips on the road!

When it comes to traveling post-pandemic, sticking to domestic travel might be the best option for a while. And that’s okay! There are plenty of amazing sites right in your own backyard, it’s just a matter of knowing where to look.

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My Top 3 Wildlife Encounters From the Road

One of the most frequent questions I get about National Parks is “where can I see bears?” Wildlife is one of my favorite parts of travel, and in the US, where I’ve done the majority of my travels in the past couple years, there is so much wildlife to see, nearly everywhere you turn. From bison to bears, from bald eagles to seagulls, every landscape has its iconic animal residents, and I’ve encountered quite a few unique furry, feathered, and scaly friends over the years. These are my top three wildlife encounters, and where you can see some of the best!

Note: Please do not approach wildlife. Always leave 25 yards of distance between you and a wild animal, unless the animal approaches you. Even then, use caution.

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While not on this list, this one almost made the cut: a deer encounter on a trail in Voyageurs National Park

While not on this list, this one almost made the cut: a deer encounter on a trail in Voyageurs National Park

The Armadillos in Congaree

This is one of my favorite animal encounters I’ve ever had because A) armadillos won’t kill you (unless you lick them—they carry leprosy!) and B) I was with some little cousins of mine and they were completing their first Junior Ranger Program.

In Congaree National Park, South Carolina, there is tons of wildlife to be seen, from snakes, to spiders, to one lone and invasive crocodile. Even if you don’t want to do an extensive hike, you’ll see plenty of unique animals just outside the visitor center on the boardwalk trail. This trip was special because I was looking at everything on the boardwalk from a child’s perspective as I helped my cousins (about 9 and 4 years old) look for animals and plants to check off their Junior Ranger checklist. Toward the end of the boardwalk, we saw quite a few people gathered by the side of the trail, and to our surprise, we noticed 3 armadillos just waddling about! They had gotten really close to the boardwalk, so we were able to safely observe them without disturbing their territory (at Congaree, staying on the boardwalk is key!).

Learn more about Congaree and the other East Coast National Parks HERE!

Want to help animals? Shop ethical apparel and help give back to animal sanctuaries at Wholesome Culture and receive a special Halle’s Wandering Soul discount!

While I wasn’t able to get a picture of the Armadillos, here’s a great reason to visit Congaree. To see a video of them, though, head to my Congaree highlight on my Instagram

While I wasn’t able to get a picture of the Armadillos, here’s a great reason to visit Congaree. To see a video of them, though, head to my Congaree highlight on my Instagram

The Bison in Yellowstone

Yellowstone is ideal for wildlife viewing. Almost nobody visits the park without seeing a bison (or getting caught in a traffic jam—which I’ll explain in a minute). Yellowstone is home to wolves, elk, grizzly bears, bison, and so much more. It truly is the pinnacle of the old American West. If you’re looking to see some incredible wildlife, head out to the park’s Lamar Valley (and if you don’t want to make the trek, don’t worry, you’ll see plenty of animals during your trip).

I only got to spend one night in the park, and stayed at Canyon Campground (which will forever remain one of my favorite campgrounds in the US). On my second day in the area, when I was going to head to Grand Teton National Park, I got up around 6 am, hoping to be on the road before the day’s tourists showed up. I stopped by Artists Point and Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone, and was greeted by one lone bison on the side of the road. This was a cool experience in itself, but I was surprised to turn the corner as I exited the canyon and find a herd of about 20 bison grazing near the road. I stopped to take a picture (from inside my car), and they proceeded to surround me in a classic Yellowstone traffic jam. Talk about morning rush hour! After about five minutes, they dispersed, and the entire time, I was the only one on the road.

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The bison herd in Yellowstone

The bison herd in Yellowstone

The Bear in Yosemite

The other stories in this post are just cool, stunning interactions I had with animals, but this one is the reason I always try to tell tourists, “You don’t want to see a bear.” Yosemite is teeming with wildlife. It’s an incredible park full of towering cliffs and animals around every corner, but it’s important to remember that National Parks are not zoos or amusement parks—when we visit National Parks, we are in another creature’s home.

Yosemite is home to black bears. Black bears are slightly less dangerous than brown bears and grizzly bears, which you’ll find in the Rockies (I have seen two grizzlies though, but they were far away). Black bears are small, like the size of a large dog, but since I was visiting in November, they were on the hunt for food, as they were going to be hibernating soon. Because of this, a ranger came around to each site in Upper Pines campground, where I was staying, to tell us what to do if we did encounter a bear in the middle of the night. You’re supposed to say, “bear bear bear Bear Bear BEAR BEAR,” and keep getting louder to scare them off. Of course, you forget all of that when you’re actually faced with a bear.

It was about 10 degrees that night, and I lay in my dad’s old sleeping bag. I was new to tent camping still, and after this trip, I invested in my own 0 degree bag. After the ranger left, we had all gone through our tents and cars (Yosemite bears can break into cars), and since I had nothing in my tent that would smell like food, I felt fairly safe sleeping in active bear country with only a piece of fabric separating me from the outside world.

When camping in bear country, make sure that everything that smells like food is put away in your bear box, bear canister, or bear bag. You can also string your food up in a tree if backpacking. Some parks are less of a worry than others, and you can keep food in your car, but check with a ranger or camp host first.

Around 4 am, I woke up to snarling. Something huge was sniffing at our bear box, which I was camped maybe 10 feet from. I lay still, and quiet—the opposite of what you’re supposed to do, and I swear I remember hearing this bear walk right by me. Holding my breath, I just hoped she would go away, and after a few more seconds of sniffing at the bear box, she ran off into the woods.

It was dark, so I couldn’t snap a picture of the bear, but here’s a reason to visit Yosemite

It was dark, so I couldn’t snap a picture of the bear, but here’s a reason to visit Yosemite

Wildlife is simply one of the best parts about traveling in the national parks. Every state has such unique animals, and getting to know the nature of each spot is what makes everywhere so special. Check out some of my favorite spots for viewing wildlife below, and start planning your next road trip!

For bison: Badlands National Park, Theodore Roosevelt National Park, Yellowstone National Park, Grand Teton National Park

For bears: Shenandoah National Park, Yosemite National Park, Sequoia National Park, Glacier National Park

For deer: Glacier National Park, Shenandoah National Park, Voyageurs National Park

For lizards and snakes: Joshua Tree National Park, Grand Canyon National Park, Bryce Canyon National Park

For interesting insects: Joshua Tree National Park, Congaree National Park, Hot Springs National Park

For big horned sheep: Glacier National Park

For pronghorns: Badlands National Park, Bryce Canyon National Park

For mountain goats: Glacier National Park

For elk: Yellowstone National Park, Grand Canyon National Park, Redwoods National and State Park

For sea life: Olympic National Park, Redwoods National and State Park

If you’re interested in planning a giant trip around the country that includes most of the parks listed here, check out my ebook, Around the States in 90 Days in the SHOP!

National Parks and National Emergencies

Visiting Death Valley During COVID-19

It was only a matter of time before I had to start addressing COVID-19 on here. As a travel blog that specializes in adventure travel, the world has felt a little weird lately. People can’t go outside, trails are closing, and only a few National Parks remain open. While certain small and high traffic parks have closed, such as Yosemite, Rocky Mountain, and White Sands, some do remain open with modifications.

I am currently living on the road full time. What this means is that I carry my house with me, like a snail, and have been isolated on public land for the past almost-week. While California does have a “shelter in place” order, it was stated that driving no more than an hour to spend time outside is okay, so since the public land I’m calling home was one hour from Death Valley National Park, I wanted to take the opportunity to go in, see the park for the first time, and address how the world has had to make modifications due to this global pandemic.

Golden Canyon Trail

Golden Canyon Trail

Currently, all National Parks are free to enter. Please keep in mind that National Parks are different from National Forests, which are run by the USDA, rather than the NPS. Largely, National Parks are not staffed right now. Visitor Centers are closed nationwide and bathrooms, campgrounds, and other facilities like parking lots that need to be maintained are locked. While Death Valley remained open, it felt like a very different, almost eerie experience to visit during this time. With only one ranger sighting throughout the entire park, multiple road closures, and 40MPH wind gusts, visiting a National Park during a National Emergency was an adventure to remember.

Please note: it is inadvisable to travel to National Parks during the COVID outbreak. I live full time on the road, mostly on BLM land, where I am able to isolate. I did not travel to go on a vacation in the National Park. This is my lifestyle, and I am treating it no differently than if I was in a house driving an hour to hike a local trail.

Zabriskie Point

Zabriskie Point

About Death Valley:

Death Valley is the largest National Park in the lower 48, and spans across both California and Nevada. It is most commonly accessed through the west, and we entered through Lone Pine, CA, which is where we are camped. Death Valley is a bit of a mismatched park. It has a little bit of everything, from mountains to desert, and each of its main attractions don’t really feel like they should fit together. From sand dunes to the lowest elevation in the United States at the Badwater Basin Salt Flats, Death Valley is a unique park that should be added to your list for future trips.

Mesquite Flat Sand Dunes

Mesquite Flat Sand Dunes

Restrictions in the National Park:

While Death Valley remains open at the time of the publication of this piece, there were restrictions within the park. Most visitor centers nationwide are closed right now, as are all public restrooms, lodging/camping, and pay stations. In Death Valley specifically, we were surprised to see that Panamint Springs was open, meaning we could get gas on our way into and out of the park. All parking lots were barricaded, so street parking was our only option for the sites that were open. There were also unexpected road closures, which caused for some disappointment as we tried to access Artists Palette, Dante’s View, Natural Arch, and Devils Golfcourse.

Badwater Basin Salt Flats

Badwater Basin Salt Flats

What was accessible?

Despite the restrictions, quite a lot was still accessible, and due to the lack of visitors, it was completely possible to still be isolated while in the park. We did not come into contact with any other people, and as avid hikers and outdoorsy humans, we always leave no trace, and that includes the spread of COVID (hands were washed often and we were careful to only touch the natural features of the park).

We were able to access the Mesquite Flat Sand Dunes, Badwater Basin Salt Flats, Golden Canyon trail, Ubehebe Crater, and Zabriskie Point, so we felt like we got a decent overview of the park, even though we had less than 12 hours there altogether.

Mesquite Flat Sand Dunes

Mesquite Flat Sand Dunes

The thing is, this trip to a National Park was incredibly different from any other National Park trip I’ve taken in the past. While this was my 35th park, it didn’t feel quite the same without a trip to the visitor center, open roads, and maps to collect. But the thing is, although we visited out of convenience and a need to get outside during this self-isolation, the park isn’t going anywhere. I can always go back and experience it in full. It’s time to let mother Earth heal first, and then the adventure can continue.

-HWS

Where My Travel Bug Was Born

An Ode to Vasquez Rocks

All travelers have to start somewhere. For me, it was in a county park that now feels so small, but holds so many memories. As soon as I was old enough, my parents started taking me to Vasquez Rocks County Park in Agua Dulce, California on a regular basis. My dad had come here as a kid as well, and if I have kids, and live in California, you can guarantee they’ll be climbing the same rocks.

My younger years at Vasquez were filled with nearly empty picnic spots, eating peanut butter sandwiches and tortilla chips on the rocks, and hunting for petroglyphs. Vasquez is a special place, and as much as it changes nearly every time I visit, the rocks are always the same, and the ravens still crow, and the tree we used to park next to still stands.

The Main Vasquez

The Main Vasquez

Vasquez Rocks is quite famous. You’ve likely seen its towering “main Vasquez” in commercials, or perhaps an episode of Star Trek, and the Pacific Crest Trail passes right through the park. But these aren’t the reasons it has a special place in my heart.

Vasquez Rocks for me represents the seeds of exploration. I associate its sandstone rock forms with my Peter Pan days of playing pretend and going on adventures that seemed big at the time. It was where I took my first hikes, scrambled my first rocks, and got my first few scraped knees. And now that I’m older, and the adventures have gotten bigger, I find myself reminiscing on those days more than ever, and have found myself returning to the park more often, making new memories.

Me as a young child, learning to rock scramble

Me as a young child, learning to rock scramble

I’ve since discovered new trails at Vasquez Rocks, and new parts of the park that I hadn’t paid much attention to as a kid. I found out that the park is dog friendly, and took my family’s dog, Josey there when we visited for my 21st birthday forever ago. Now, I’ve spent time studying the rocks with Jared (@jaredinthevan) as bouldering and climbing started to peak my interest.

The sandstone rocks of Vasquez

The sandstone rocks of Vasquez

We all have our safe spaces, and for me right now, those spaces are outside. It’s never a bad thing to revisit some childhood memories, either by physically going to the place, or through photographs (or both). Vasquez Rocks for me is a place that will always be there, no matter how much its changed over the years, and in times like these, it’s important to remember what made you the person you are today, to stay grounded, to not lose hope.

-HWS

Tips From a Local: Los Angeles

Los Angeles is a top tourist spot for a lot of reasons. During the summer, we avoid going to the city because it’s “tourist season,” and I constantly see questions regarding my home city and public transportation (hint: we have none). While I’m a huge fan of nature, I do have a certain love for Los Angeles, even if that love only comes from the fact that I grew up there. Since I started traveling, I’ve done a pretty good job of exploring my home city when I do happen to go home to visit my family, and I’ve started to gain an appreciation of everything there is to do in this massive city. Basically, why people love to travel there.

Recently, I had one of my favorite members of my Van Fam (@jaredinthevan) come and visit while I was in LA catching up with the family, so I had the pleasure of playing tour guide for a few days. There were beaches, mountains, and rocks to be climbed. Oh, and ice cream. These are the places I take my friends when we’re in Los Angeles.

Sunset at El Matador Beach

Sunset at El Matador Beach

El Matador Beach

Shhh! This one’s a secret! Once one of the most secluded beaches in Los Angeles, El Matador has recently sprung up as a hotspot for film and photoshoots. I try not to tell people about it, but it simply had to be on this list—it’s generally the first place I take people when they come to LA for the first time. It’s known for its rock formations, and if the tide is low, you can walk all the way down to a decent sized cave. There is limited parking here, and it costs $6 to park.

El Matador is my favorite place in Los Angeles. Please, if you visit, keep it low key—don’t bring a ton of people to party, and please, leave no trace.

Hidden cave at El Matador Beach

Hidden cave at El Matador Beach

Vasquez Rocks Natural Park

This is a place I’ve been coming since I was a kid after my dad came here a lot when he was a kid. This is a historic film site (think, Star Trek!), as well as a section of the Pacific Crest Trail and natural area. I took Jared here to do some bouldering. We did our fair share of scrambling too, but climbing was the main purpose of the day. This area was once underwater and is home to plenty of interesting rock formations to climb or scramble up. This is also a great place to bring kids if you’re traveling with a family (believe me, it was 4 year old Halle approved!).

On weekends it does get busy, so plan ahead and get there early. There is also no water at the park, so pack some in (and remember to pack all your trash out!). Vasquez Rocks is free to enter, and has a small visitor center for information.

Vasquez Rocks Natural Park

Vasquez Rocks Natural Park

Point Dume State Beach

Point Dume is a huge climbing hotspot, which is why I wanted to take Jared out here, but it’s also one of my favorite beaches in the area. Climb to the top of the bluff (via hiking trail or rope), and take a peek at the view, explore the tide pools, go for a swim, or, in the winter, watch for whales! Yes, we saw whales here! Point Dume is more of your classic swim beach than El Matador, and offers plenty of sand to sprawl out on, as well as a towering rock formation on the west side of the beach. There is free parking available, but it does require some walking. If walking just isn’t your thing, you can pay the $8 parking fee in the lot.

View from the top of the bluff, Point Dume State Beach

View from the top of the bluff, Point Dume State Beach

Magpies Softserve

This is a bit of a different spot than the others on this list, but it had to be on here for obvious reasons (if it isn’t obvious, the reason is ICE CREAM!). Magpies is my favorite ice cream shop in Los Angeles. They have a rotating menu of specialty soft serve flavors, and six of their eight flavors are vegan. They also make delicious ice cream pies with vegan whipped cream, and the shop itself is so good, I went three times in one week!

Magpie’s Softserve is one of the most Instagrammable ice cream spots in the city

Magpie’s Softserve is one of the most Instagrammable ice cream spots in the city

Topanga State Park

Topanga State Park is a state park located in the Santa Monica Mountains. Of all the many state parks in the area, this one is definitely my favorite. It has some of the best hiking trails in the area, and accessing them takes you through the beautiful canyon, which is recognized by the state of California as a scenic route. Some of my favorite trails in the park include Parker Mesa, Eagle Rock, and Hondo Canyon (which is located off Old Topanga Road and is part of the Backbone Trail). While Parker Mesa and Hondo Canyon are definitely meant for more advanced hikers, there truly is a trail for everyone in Topanga, and Eagle Rock is a huge tourist spot, so get ready to snap that Instagram pic at the top.

Top of the Eagle Rock hike in Topanga State Park

Top of the Eagle Rock hike in Topanga State Park

Los Angeles is a place I have a complicated relationship with. I love it because it’s home, but it’s a bit chaotic to be in with the van. Regardless of chaos, I do have my favorite spots, and these ones are definitely worth seeing during a trip to Los Angeles. So get that camera ready, and prepare to step out of the tourist spotlight for a day or two, and head out to one of these places. But most importantly, take care of them. Let’s keep these places beautiful.

Why I Live in a Van

I’ve been living in the van full time for a month now, and the truth is, living in a van down by the river (or in the desert, or woods, or mountains, or city) is the best life ever. But I get it: you might not. And that’s okay, but really, full time travel is something that a lot of people are pursuing these days. I live in a 1997 Dodge Ram 3500 conversion van. It has a full sized bed, refrigerator, running water, solar power electricity, and an emergency toilet, and it’s everything I need to be happy. It’s not all fun and games, but it gives our lives variety. It allows me to have the freedom my soul wants while still being a Responsible Adult. And it’s allowed me to find myself, at least a little bit. So this is my why. Why travel. Why an alternative lifestyle. Why vanlife.

Camping on Joshua Tree South BLM

Camping on Joshua Tree South BLM

What is an alternative lifestyle?

We’ve all heard of the 9-5. We’ve all heard of the college, get married, buy a house, have kids, work for 30 years, retire loop that people tend to get stuck in. An alternative lifestyle is the rejection of that. It’s the idea that we are in charge of our own lives, not society. You can really do whatever you want. The thing is, whatever your excuse is, spin it around. If you think, “yeah but… I have to work.” Why can’t you do that from the road? Why can’t you start your own business? “Yeah but… I’m supposed to be buying a house.” Why is that? Who is saying that a house is your next step? There are no written rules for life, so it’s important to understand that we can take charge of our own paths, and do the thing that makes our souls feel full.

Of course, if a 9-5 feels right to you, then amazing! Do that! But for many of the people in my community, there’s boredom in a 9-5, there’s creative blocks, there’s a feeling of being trapped. So listen to that feeling and know that there’s another life out there.

Camping at Anza Borrego Desert State Park

Camping at Anza Borrego Desert State Park

But you can’t just be on vacation all the time…

Whoa whoa whoa… I have to stop you there. This is not a vacation. First I want to talk about something that my guide, Mike, brought up on the first day of my GIVE trip: what is the difference between a vacation and an adventure?

To me, a vacation is an escape from something, usually from a job or school. A vacation has the purpose of being a relaxing break before you return to real life.

An adventure is what this life feels like to me, but it’s more than that: this is my real life. Travel is my lifestyle. I still deal with real life, sometimes more than I would if I was living in an apartment, because in a moving house, things tend to break. I have to fill up my water tanks and dump the grey water when it’s full. I go grocery shopping and cook breakfast, lunch, and dinner every night. And more importantly, I work. I spend about 50% of my time in a place working so that I can afford to be where I am. This is simply life to me—it’s just that my backyard changes.

Loving life in Joshua Tree National Park. Photo by my friend Jared @jaredinthevan.

Loving life in Joshua Tree National Park. Photo by my friend Jared @jaredinthevan.

Why a van?

Now a lot of people romanticize backpacking, which is also long term travel, but yet don’t understand vanlife. Why is that? Honestly, there is a stigma, but when I have friends living in Mercedes Sprinters, it’s hard to understand why that stigma still stands. Honestly, I chose a van because I wanted to travel, but didn’t want rent to pay on top of my plane tickets. I wanted to be going full time, and having a van allows you to have everything you could possibly need with you all the time, no matter where you are.

I chose a van because when I sleep next to a national park I wake up to the sunrise peeking through my windows. I chose a van because ending my day surrounded by somewhere new but under a sky full of the same stars feels more stable and right to me than going home to the same place every night. I chose a van because it could park anywhere. I chose a van because the road feels like home to me, and even more so when I carry my home with me like a snail does. I chose a van because structure doesn’t pair well with me. And that’s okay. There’s a life for everyone where they’re happy.

Me and the van at the RTR 2020. Photo by my friends @lindseyanddannyvanlife

Me and the van at the RTR 2020. Photo by my friends @lindseyanddannyvanlife

What about friends and relationships?

This is a tricky one. When we’re constantly moving, we don’t find ourselves surrounded by the same people all the time, but at the same time, the people we need to be around will find us when we need them the most. I have an amazing van fam who I caravanned with for about a month, and the thing is, people come and go, and moments do too—it’s just a matter of listening to where your soul wants to be and who it wants to be with.

Me and Emma in Sedona. Emma is one of the van fam and you can find her @emma.goes. Photo by our friend Brien @theotherground.

Me and Emma in Sedona. Emma is one of the van fam and you can find her @emma.goes. Photo by our friend Brien @theotherground.

So… in conclusion…

Basically, vanlife for me is finding my freedom. I felt very stifled in school, and like I never really had the opportunity to make friends who truly understood how I felt about certain things, and through full time travel, through the road, I’ve been able to find both of those things. While people are fleeting, I’ve found my community, and while all roads do come to an end, I’ve found my freedom through the movement. I’ve figured myself out, and what I need, and I think that was something that needed to happen for me to progress as a person. Vanlife isn’t just about the van, it’s about the life and what you choose to do with it.

-HWS

I Took a Secret Tour of Joshua Tree

I’ve been to Joshua Tree 5 times in my life, 4 of them in the past year, and 2 of them in the van. This time around I definitely felt as local as you can get in a National Park, but at the same time, I knew there was so much more to discover.

When The Secret Tours reached out to me, I was immediately intrigued—discovering more about a place I’ve been before? Having an excuse to go back? Yes please! So during this trip to Joshua Tree National Park, I participated in a couple of their tours so that I could see a little more of this amazing place I’ve grown to love.

The Secret Tours is a self-guided tour company in the Joshua Tree area, and they have a few different tours to participate in. On this trip, I did the Walking Tour and the National Park Tour, and both were super fun! They combine the idea of a scavenger hunt with exploration and fun facts about the area to make exploring interesting for all types of travelers. My team was made up of me and Transit Connect vanlifer Jared (@Jaredinthevan on insta!), and while it was my fifth time to the park, it was Jared’s first, so taking the National Park tour made for a really cool experience: me discovering new places I hadn’t seen before, and Jared seeing the whole park for the first time.

Don’t climb skull rock unless you know what you’re doing! The view from the bottom is pretty cool too!

Don’t climb skull rock unless you know what you’re doing! The view from the bottom is pretty cool too!

All of the tours start at the Joshua Tree Visitor Center in Joshua Tree, California. For the National Park tour, you’ll then go into the park and start discovering new destinations along the road, and answering questions about your observations as you go.

This tour will take you through the entire park, and as far south as the Cholla Cactus Gardens, your clues adding up to one big answer at the end of the tour!

Sunset from Quail Springs

Sunset from Quail Springs

Some of our favorite stops:

Cholla Cactus Gardens- This is an all time favorite of mine, so I was super excited to see it on this tour! This is one of those must-see stops in Joshua Tree, but make sure you experience it right by seeing it with The Secret Tours!

Chollas chillin’ in the Cactus Gardens

Chollas chillin’ in the Cactus Gardens

The Adventurous Yucca- This is the oldest Joshua Tree, but I won’t tell you where in the park to find it—I’ll leave The Secret Tours to that one! This is a fun spot to hit because at the very beginning of the tour you have to figure out how old it is!

The oldest Joshua Tree… can you guess how old it is? Or, you can go on the tour to find out!

The oldest Joshua Tree… can you guess how old it is? Or, you can go on the tour to find out!

Keys View- Again, I’m not gonna tell you where to find this one, but you can’t really miss the signs pointing you in the right direction! This is a super cool spot that I didn’t even know was here, despite the fact that I’d been to the park 5 times!

Quail Springs- While we experienced this spot at the beginning of the tour, we actually ended up coming back here at the end of the day for the sunset and some rock scrambling, despite the long drive through the park! I loved that this tour showed me some spots worth revisiting, other than my normal go-to’s.

Key’s View! Joshua Tree’s very own Grand Canyon!

Key’s View! Joshua Tree’s very own Grand Canyon!

For your next trip to Joshua Tree, The Secret Tours should be on your to-do list! They’re a great way to get the lay of the land and experience the entire area in and surrounding the park to the fullest! While the main tour I did while I was in the area was the National Park tour, they also have their walking tour and a longer driving tour around the area that surrounds the park to take you to some cool desert art, alien-related spots, and more! So head on out to the California desert—you might just discover some secrets…

Your Guide to the Southern California Desert

I’ve now pretty much finished Southern California. It’s where I grew up and went to school, so I’ve got a pretty good gauge of its geography. And on top of that, there’s basically no major destination in the southern portion of the state that I haven’t traveled to. There are a few main landscapes in Southern California: from mountains to beaches to deserts. They say it’s one of the only places you can go surfing in the morning and skiing in the afternoon. But a large portion of Southern California is taken up by desert, and a few of these deserts are very worth your visit, while some are just transitional spaces between states (I’m looking at you, Mojave). This is a short guide to the deserts worth seeing, why you should visit, and what there is to do there.

Joshua Tree National Park

Joshua Tree National Park

Anza Borrego Desert State Park

Anza Borrego Desert State Park is actually known for its correlation with the famous California Wildflower Superbloom that happens in spring seasons that follow winters where we get a lot of rain. While a superbloom is unlikely in 2020, this desert is still worth your visit. It’s the largest state park in the contiguous United States, and touches three counties: San Diego, Imperial, and Riverside. There are also a lot of free campgrounds in Anza Borrego, and you do not need to pay the park entrance fee ($10) to stay in them overnight. You’ve likely heard about Anza Borrego from the Sky Art Sculptures: giant metal sculptures built to work with the landscape or look like they’re a part of it. These sculptures invoke feelings of whimsy, and bring you back to the most childlike parts of your imagination (pictured below).

The Serpent, Anza Borrego Desert State Park

The Serpent, Anza Borrego Desert State Park

Joshua Tree National Park

I’ve talked about Joshua Tree a lot on this blog, and even have a full guide to the park available HERE, but it needs to be on this list because it’s one of the main desert attractions in Southern California. Home to over 2 million Joshua Trees, a member of the agave family, Joshua Tree National Park is known for rock climbing, photography, and general exploring. It’s a huge park with plenty to do for every kind of traveler. Going with kids? Check out Jumbo Rocks Campground, Skull Rock, and Arch Rock. Adventure Seeker? Go find the Hall in the Hall or Horrors, summit Ryan Mountain, or go scrambling on one of the many rock formations. Just trying to take some good pictures for the ‘gram? Head over to the Cholla Cactus Gardens or stop in any roadside pullout for a good photoshoot with some J Trees! There’s also tons to do in the area, from stopping and grabbing a bomb vegan sandwich and getting some work done at Frontier Café to taking a self-guided tour with The Secret Tours.

Joshua Tree National Park: Sunrise from Belle Campground

Joshua Tree National Park: Sunrise from Belle Campground

Slab City, The Salton Sea, and Salvation Mountain

These spots are important for any SoCal desert tourist, but I honestly can’t see myself going back anytime soon. Salvation Mountain is a famous piece of desert installation art in the middle of Slab City, a strange desert town. It’s definitely worth seeing, and while you’re there, make sure you visit East Jesus—another space for desert art. As for where to stay during your time here, I highly recommend the Salton Sea. It’s close by, but not so close that you’ll feel the general weirdness of the Slabs. The Salton Sea is a huge body of water with a strange history, and the beach is made of fish bones. Just beware—the Salton Sea doesn’t smell its best!

Salvation Mountain, Slab City, CA

Salvation Mountain, Slab City, CA

The SoCal desert is an incredible landscape that shouldn’t be missed. So many people say they’re coming to California and stop their journey south at Los Angeles, when really, there’s so much to be seen. The desert lies inland, and will give you a much broader scope of what California is made of. The desert is a place of extremes, so you might want to make sure you stock up on water, but also bring your 0 degree sleeping bag with you (don’t have one? Check out my favorite bag HERE!). But above all, make sure you take plenty of pictures—the desert has a certain beautiful magic to it.

My Must-Visit Spots in San Diego, CA

It’s no secret, if you’ve been following me a while, that cities aren’t really my thing. But when I was on my way back to my home base from my 3 weeks in Arizona, I really wanted to see where else I could fit into my route before taking a break from vanlife for a bit to get my WFA certification. A lot of my van fam had headed out to San Diego after Arizona, and it’s kinda the place to go for people in vans in the colder months because we, like birds, go south for the winter.

Now, it’s not that cities don’t have a ton to offer. There’s culture, food, and plenty to do. But there tends to be a bit more chaos in cities than I like. It’s a bit harder to park the van, and there are more rules about where you can sleep at night. I also tend to feel a little disconnected when I spent too much time in a city (truly, the forest is where I belong). But I went to San Diego anyway. So, for anyone in a van (or not!) who’s planning a trip to San Diego, these are my favorite places I went while I was there.

La Jolla Cove

La Jolla Cove

Sunset Cliffs and Ocean Beach

The beach towns tended to have a little more space for big ol’ Sequoia, so the first place I went was Ocean Beach. Sunset Cliffs is a natural park known for towering cliffs over the ocean. Lots of people come here to see the views, surf the waves, or watch the sunset because, well, it’s called Sunset Cliffs for a reason.

Ocean Beach is also home to a very cool nighttime farmer’s market on Wednesdays (starting at 4pm), where they have music, vendors, and tons of vegan food available.

Sunset Cliffs, Ocean Beach

Sunset Cliffs, Ocean Beach

La Jolla

La Jolla is one of the most crowded and complicated areas to visit if you have a van. Parking here is an absolute nightmare, and my one tip is to try to park as far from the actual coves as you can walk. I ended up finding parking over by the La Jolla Underwater Park (I believe), and walked the beautiful cliffside trail to the coves (which was only about a half mile and incredibly gorgeous).

La Jolla is one of the nicest areas I visited in San Diego. It’s full of touristy shops, expensive restaurants, and sea lions. Yes, sea lions. These gorgeous animals are what La Jolla is known for, so make sure you go to the coves and say hi (just don’t get too close! Remember to Leave No Trace!).

The sea lions of La Jolla

The sea lions of La Jolla

Mission Bay Park

This was a great little spot to go and relax, make lunch, and get some work done. It’s definitely not a place to plan on spending your entire day unless you have a kayak or paddleboard, but it did give me some beautiful views while I did some writing. A lot of people come here to walk or ride their bikes along the shore, get a work out in, or let their kids run off some steam. There’s also tons of parking during the day so if you’re looking for a place to just relax, hop on your hotspot, or take a walk, this spot should be on your list.

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Mission Bay Park

Mission Bay Park

Where I ate

I usually don’t talk about veganism on the blog, but honestly, a huge portion of what I do in cities is food related. Cities make it really easy to spend all your money on food. Luckily, because I have a kitchen, I did cook most of my food, and I had plenty of snacks with me, but there were a few points where I did buy food out. A favorite in Ocean Beach is Plant Power Fast Food. I used to work at one of their other locations, and it made for a super convenient place to grab a bite on the days when I was in OB. They also have WiFi, so it was a bit of a win-win.

I did also get an awesome meal at the OB farmer’s market on the Wednesday that I was there. They had tons of vegan spots at the event, but I found a vegan Chinese food place with no line that gave me an incredible amount of food for $12.

I also headed out to the University Heights area near SDSU where I went with a friend for dinner. We met at Plumeria Vegetarian Restaurant, a sit-down vegetarian Thai food place that was almost as good as the real deal.

The last place I ate out at was Loving Hut in Scripp’s Ranch. I wasn’t planning on heading out this way again, and then I found out that my childhood best friend was also in town, so I went out to where she grew up (and where I had visited with her mom a few days before), and she took me here. This place has amazing food and enormous portions. Would definitely recommend!

La Jolla Underwater Park, view from a coastal trail I parked near

La Jolla Underwater Park, view from a coastal trail I parked near

San Diego was an interesting first real city experience in the van. I did really enjoy my time there, despite the absolute chaos cities tend to bring. So, if you’re planning your own trip to Southern California anytime soon, make sure these spots are on your list—they’ll be sure to give you a pretty complete San Diego experience.

10 Tips for Making it Through Long-Haul Road Trips

In my world, I do a lot of driving. In the past year, I’ve put about 20,000 miles under my wheels (in two separate vehicles of course), and while I like to keep my drives short (3-4 hours if possible), there are some days when you just can’t avoid that 6-12 hour long-haul. Doing drives like this to get to a destination can be grueling, especially if you’re solo, so whether you’re a full time vanlifer like myself, or a casual traveler looking to get that road trip fix in this spring, here are my best tips for surviving a day on the road.

Disclaimer: this post may contain affiliate links

My first tiny home, in Badlands National Park, SD

My first tiny home, in Badlands National Park, SD

1: Be prepared for time zone shifts

If you’re traveling coast to coast (or in any vaguely horizontal direction, really, if you’re not just road tripping in the states), it’s super important to be prepared to shift in your time zone. This can affect your arrival time greatly, and will affect you more if you’re moving West to East, rather than East to West, since you’ll be arriving an hour later than planned. Keep this in mind when doing any type of long haul drive, so that you can plan accordingly for any way that this might throw off your plans.

Sedona, AZ (photographer: Brien @theotherground)

Sedona, AZ (photographer: Brien @theotherground)

2: Snacks

Obviously, you can’t have a proper road trip without snacks. But, they’re even more important when you’re putting major miles behind you, especially if you’re driving solo. Calories keep you awake, and sometimes, you won’t want to stop for lunch, especially if you’re trying to make it to a destination by a certain time. I always keep a few snacks with me in the front of the van so that I don’t have to pull over to find something to eat every time I start getting tired.

A favorite healthy snack of mine lately is Bobo’s Oat Bars. They’re vegan, oat based, and super yummy! Pick yourself up a box HERE!

Bobo’s Oat Bars make fantastic road trip snacks

Bobo’s Oat Bars make fantastic road trip snacks

3: Water

As essential as snacks, water is something we often forget about while driving, especially if you’re driving solo. The thing is, being in the car all day singing along to the radio is incredibly dehydrating, and you’ll only get tired faster if your body needs something you aren’t giving it.

If there’s nowhere to fill up my reusable bottle, you’ll nearly always see me sipping on a Surfwater—bottled water packaged in the world’s most recyclable material: aluminum!

Surfwater aka the best water at El Matador Beach in Malibu (photographer: Alex @alx.vu)

Surfwater aka the best water at El Matador Beach in Malibu (photographer: Alex @alx.vu)

4: An amazing playlist

Nearly as essential as food and water, having great, inspiring music to listen to is a must. I have about 10 very similar but very different road trip playlists that I recycle depending on my landscape, but my favorite artists to listen to on the road are: Lord Huron, The National Parks, Frenship, and Mogli. Oh, and the soundtrack from David Attenborough’s Our Planet. Don’t knock it ‘til you try it!

Here are some links to my current favorite Spotify playlists:

Vanlife

The Ultimate Roadtrip Soundtrack

Pacific Coast Highway

Our Planet

The van on Joshua Tree BLM land

The van on Joshua Tree BLM land

5: Take Breaks

I cannot stress this one enough! If you’re traveling solo, please take breaks. This is what rest areas are for, and if there are none, gas stations and truck stops are amazing too. I recommend taking a break every 1-2 hours so that you can breathe, use the bathroom, change your music, make a sandwich, anything! Just take your eyes off the road and your hands off the wheel for 10 minutes. It’ll wake you up and make for a safer and less frustrating drive.

Bison on the road in Yellowstone National Park

Bison on the road in Yellowstone National Park

6: Be aware of agricultural checkpoints

This might only be a thing in the United States—I’m not sure of agricultural laws in other countries—but if you are driving over state lines in the US, be aware of agricultural checkpoints. This is similar to how you have to declare certain items when you fly into a new country or back into the US. They will ask whether you have any fruits, veggies, plants, etc… in the vehicle, as exposing the local agriculture to those plants could affect the environment. As far as I remember, the only agricultural checkpoints in the continental US are at California entry points.

Hoyt Arboretum, OR. When you drive from Oregon to California, you will be asked if you’re carrying any produce.

Hoyt Arboretum, OR. When you drive from Oregon to California, you will be asked if you’re carrying any produce.

7: Comfy clothes

This might go without saying, but driving in comfortable clothes will make all the difference. It’s also important to wear clothes for the weather later in the day. The other day, I drove 6 and a half hours from Tucson to San Diego and while it was freezing in the morning, as soon as I hit the Southern Californian desert near the Mexico border, it was hot and sunny! Considering the fact that my van has no AC, it was important that I drove in clothes made for warm weather so that I wouldn’t need to keep stopping to put on or take off a jacket.

One of my favorite brands of ethical and comfortable clothes is Wholesome Culture. They use organic cotton, water based ink, and donate money to animal sanctuaries for every purchase made. Check them out HERE!

Sporting my favorite Wholesome Culture T-shirt on a hike through Mammoth Cave National Park, KY. It says “There is no Planet B.”

Sporting my favorite Wholesome Culture T-shirt on a hike through Mammoth Cave National Park, KY. It says “There is no Planet B.”

8: Keep an eye on your cell service!

So often during long-hauls we drive into areas with no cell service without realizing it. Especially if you’re unfamiliar with the area, it’s crucial to either download your maps before, carry a paper map (for really remote areas like Montana, Canada, Alaska, and even parts of Utah/Nevada), or make sure that you do not exit your already functioning navigation. As long as you start your navigation in either Google Maps or Apple Maps, it will keep you on track even when you do lose service, but as soon as you exit, you won’t be able to just pull it right back up if you’ve got no bars. When I was driving from Valley of Fire State Park in Nevada to Bryce Canyon National Park in Utah, there was no service for the first hour of my drive, and being my second day on the road, this was incredibly stressful. Make sure you know the general direction that you’re going, and if you can find a Pilot or Flying J truck stop (in the states), go in and ask if they have WiFi so you can download a map—they usually do!

Glacier National Park, MT: one of the most remote places you can drive to. Definitely download your maps before leaving West Glacier!

Glacier National Park, MT: one of the most remote places you can drive to. Definitely download your maps before leaving West Glacier!

9: Get off the highway and explore

If you’re not in any rush, why make it a long-haul drive in the first place? Drive in your direction until you find something interesting and then make a little detour. You never know what you might find, and there’s always the chance of an unexpected adventure. Long-haul drives are grueling and unless you have a time limit, unnecessary. Let yourself explore more instead.

One of the best detours I’ve ever made! The Salton Sea, CA. Learn more about this place HERE!

One of the best detours I’ve ever made! The Salton Sea, CA. Learn more about this place HERE!

10: Take it all in…

It’s so easy when you’re road tripping to make it about the destination. But the truth is, the journey is often the most fun and beautiful part. Some of my favorite experiences on the road, and my most important revelations have come from the actual driving, not the arriving at my destination. It’s so important to take time to realize the landscapes you’re driving through, the lives of the people in the towns you’re passing by, and really, how small the world is when you really think about it.

Lake Crescent, Olympic National Park, WA

Lake Crescent, Olympic National Park, WA

The world is far more connected than we like to think. Nothing is as far away as our maps suggest—really, it’s just one 12 hour drive. Take the time to appreciate the distance, it will make all the difference when it comes to surviving that long drive (oh, and of course, all the other stuff too).