Your Guide to Joshua Tree National Park

Local visitors and out of town tourists alike are drawn to this mysterious place hiding out in Southern California’s desert for many reasons. Whether it’s trees that look like they’re straight out of The Lorax, rocks just begging to be scrambled and climbed on, or the Milky Way waiting to come out of hiding in this designated dark sky zone, Joshua Tree National Park truly has something for every type of traveler, from the hiker to the artist.

Joshua Tree is the park that I’ve spent the most time in so far. Part of the reason for that was its proximity to my old university, but even after graduating, I still find myself pining for the dry, expansive landscape of the California desert more often than I’d expect, considering I’m such a lover of mountains. Joshua Tree truly comes with a certain type of desert magic, and it’s something you definitely shouldn’t miss during your next trip to California.

Hemingway, Joshua Tree National Park, CA

So… where exactly is Joshua Tree?

Joshua Tree is located between Yucca Valley, CA and Twentynine Palms, CA, and is about an hour from the Inland Empire. It’s nearly exactly halfway between Los Angeles and San Diego, if you draw a triangle between the three, Joshua Tree being the most inland. Joshua Tree is also located nearby other famous California road trip destinations, such as the Coachella Valley, the Salton Sea, and Salvation Mountain.

What is a designated dark sky zone?

There are only a few spots in the US that are considered “designated dark sky zones,” Joshua Tree being one of the most famous, but what makes them different from other areas where there’s simply low light pollution?

Well, the basic idea is that it’s really low light pollution, and it’s protected land. So, these areas are specifically set aside in a way that ensures that light pollution like we have in many major cities can’t reach them, allowing for incredibly dark nights, and incredibly clear stars. Many people have their first views of the Milky Way while staying in Joshua Tree National Park, and photographers love playing with light here: the contrast between the strange silhouette of the Joshua Tree and the bright stars up above creating dream-like landscapes one usually only finds in children’s books.

Joshua Trees off the side of the road near the Yucca Valley park entrance

Hiking Joshua Tree

If you’re a hiker, like myself, it’s important that you visit Joshua Tree prepared for a couple things: most of their trails are fairly flat, it’s easy to get lost, and there’s no potable water in the park. While there are marked trails, no one will yell at you for going off trail here to explore, as long as you don’t damage the plants or rocks, but make sure you know your way back—most of this beautiful desert looks very similar!

Of their marked trails, there’s really only one that truly gains any elevation: Ryan Mountain. Ryan Mountain is an awesome hike with truly amazing views, but as there’s no potable water in the park, make sure you bring enough on your back if you’re there in the hot season.

That feeling you get when you summit Ryan Mountain and there’s still snow on the ground

There are other flat trails in the park as well, and plenty of rock scrambles to climb if you’re sick of just wandering through the desert! Some other notable trails include the Boy Scout Trail (16 miles out and back, or 8 miles one way) and the Cholla Cactus Garden trail (only .25 miles of family friendly trail through a spot where tons of cacti grow). Of course, there are plenty of other trails, out to old mines, abandoned ranches, and rock scrambles, so be safe, choose a trail right for your ability, and get hiking!

Cholla Cactus Garden, Joshua Tree National Park, CA

Sightseeing in Joshua Tree

If you’re not a hiker, there are tons of sites to see that don’t involve tons of energy exertion. These are also great places to stop if its too hot out to hike! Some favorite sites are Skull Rock, Oyster Bar, Hemingway, and Hall of Horrors.

While Hemingway and Hall of Horrors are known as rock climbing and scrambling spots, they’re still only a short walk from the parking lot, and feature cool rock formations to photograph. If you are looking to scramble though, Hemingway is more known for bouldering and climbing, while Hall of Horrors is full of fun rock scrambles and hidden caves.

Skull Rock, Joshua Tree National Park, CA

Camping in Joshua Tree

Joshua Tree is a super popular park, so if you’re going on a long weekend, or really any weekend except in the summer, my advice would be to get there early! I’ve personally camped in three of the park’s campgrounds: Jumbo Rocks, Belle, and Ryan. All three are beautiful and offer very different experiences! Ryan is definitely closest to the sites, but as Belle is a bit harder to find, it tends to be a bit quieter. Both are first come first served.

Most campgrounds in the park are first-come-first-served, but Jumbo Rocks is available for reservation, and is one of the most popular campgrounds in the park due to its proximity to, well… huge rocks! On top of that, it’s by far my favorite of the three I’ve stayed in. The rocks are perfect for late-night scrambling and provide fantastic views of the stars away from the noise and light down below. It’s also home to one of the most famous photography spots in the park (pictured below).

Go on a treasure hunt for this famous spot in Jumbo Rocks Campground

What to be prepared for…

Like I said earlier, there’s no water in the park, so bring at least one gallon per person per day, and more in the hot season. The last thing you want is to get dehydrated 40 miles away from the Yucca Valley entrance (the only place with potable and running water).

It’s also either incredibly hot or incredibly cold, so check the weather before your trip.

The park is also home to tons of wildlife, if you know where to look! I’ve spotted tarantulas, giant hawks, snakes, lizards, jackrabbits, and tons of mischievous chipmunks!

There is a $25 entrance fee at the gate as well, so if you plan on visiting more than 3 National Parks within the next year, I suggest purchasing the $80 Interagency Annual Pass or Lifetime Senior Pass (for adventurers ages 65+).

When’s the best time to go?

Personally, since I’m a winter girl, I’d say go in the cold season. While it does still get below freezing in the winter here, I’d rather have to use more blankets than sweat through my sleep. It starts getting hot around late April, and cools down starting around November, so anything in that winter season would be perfect in my book, as long as you bring enough firewood and warm clothes! It does snow in Joshua Tree if it gets cold enough, though, so check the weather, or the Joshua Tree official Instagram, and be prepared with chains if needed.

If you insist on going in the hot season, know that it’s not just hot, it’s incredibly hot. There’s next to no shade in J Tree land, and I’ve found myself climbing rocks to find caves to hide in during the heat of the day. In the hot season, the only time you’ll have for exploring is early morning and evening. For a summer visit, I’d suggest getting one of the nearby Air BnB’s instead of camping, so that you have some AC to escape to!

Joshua Tree in February is beautiful, but chilly!

Joshua Tree truly is a unique place to visit, and has amazing sites hidden around every bend. If you’ve never experienced the California desert, this is a great place to start. This is truly one of my favorite spots in California, and the National Park I’ve spent the most time in (and for good reason). Whether you simply want to take pictures with the cool trees, or insist on staying up late to stargaze, Joshua Tree will not disappoint, and its strange desert magic will keep you coming back again and again.

If you want to learn more about Joshua Tree and how you can fit it into a huge California road trip, check out my ebook: Exploring California’s Interior.

Top 5 Beaches in the US

As someone from California, the beach has never been too far out of reach, even when I was going to school in the Inland Empire. When I was traveling the United States this past summer, I found myself bearing long stretches of time in between oceans, and I realized that there’s no way I could ever live landlocked. I never even particularly loved the beach as a kid. I actually hated the beach up until around high school when I started tolerating it for an ex boyfriend. It wasn’t until university that I truly found my love for the ocean through feeling a strange sense of duty to protect planet earth. Through sustainability, I finally found every California girl’s love for the sun, salt, and sand, and now that I’ve been to (almost) every corner of the county, I’ve come up with a list of my five favorite beaches I’ve ever visited. While there are plenty in between, and ones maybe even more worth visiting that I haven’t been to yet, these are five that should be on your to-visit list, no matter what corner of the country you’re from.

West Coast:

El Matador State Beach, CA

California’s not only home to me, but if anyone else was writing this article, it would probably top this list anyway. California’s known for its beaches, from Big Sur to Santa Monica. While I could’ve picked any of those, I felt like the one beach that had to rep the Golden State is El Matador. Now, it’s not your classic swim beach. There are no lifeguards (unless it’s a particularly stormy day), no volleyball nets, and oftentimes, there’s no sun either. But, it’s one of the most secluded beaches in the Los Angeles area. You have to park in a lot off of PCH ($6) and then hike down a small bluff to access the beach. Once you’re down there, you’ll be greeted by Northwest-esque rock formations, a small cove, and the occasional wedding photoshoot.

It is getting more popular by the minute, though, so consider yourself lucky that I shared it with you at all. As it gets to be more well known, it’s more important than ever to keep this place wild, packing out all garbage, using only the toilets located in the parking lot, and leaving pets at home.

El Matador State Beach, CA

Rialto Beach, Olympic National Park, WA

With its rocky shore, grey waves, and foggy surrounding pine tree forest, there’s no doubt that Rialto Beach is incredibly different from any beach further south along the coast. Located just a few miles west of the 101, Rialto is one of the Northernmost beaches along the West Coast. With it’s fallen driftwood trees and choppy waves, this is one of the most unique landscapes you can find at a beach (at least that I’ve seen). Rialto offers everything between a few miles of walking along the shore to famous rock formations such as Split Rock and Hole in the Wall to extended wilderness coast backpacking trips, which you must register at the Mora Ranger Station to participate in. Rialto Beach is a beach of tide pools, starfish, sea anemones, pine trees, and surrounding Olympic mountains. Some people are lucky enough to see whales here, but I didn’t during my day I spent on the shore. It can get super cold, so bring a blanket and a jacket, and see where the shoreline takes you. You won’t be disappointed.

Although this beach is on National Park land, you don’t need to pay admission or parking to get in (yay!), just make sure you follow leave no trace principles, backpacking ordinances, and other regulations. Dogs are also allowed on Rialto Beach, which makes it an awesome destination for overlanders heading up the coast!

Rialto Beach, Olympic National Park Shore Section, WA

East Coast:

Flagler Beach, FL

This was kind of an unexpected one. I came here by fate of a cousin of my mom’s setting me up with a free apartment here during my road trip around the country. I thought, “Why not? Free shower, WiFi, and bed? Plus it’s by the beach…” And that beach was amazing. It was almost completely secluded, really only a few locals, and some regular out of town visitors. Plus, it’s dog friendly, and is one of the only dog friendly beaches in the area. The water was super warm and the waves were perfect for a day-long swim in the middle of July. I also felt 100% okay with leaving my stuff on the sand to go in the ocean. As I was staying across the street, I’m not completely sure what the rules are about parking, but there appeared to be some street parking when there’s no construction happening (as there was when I was there).

Flagler Beach, FL

Acadia National Park, ME

I’m not really sure if this counts as a beach itself, but it is home to many beautiful beaches, and places where the land meets the sea. Acadia National Park is actually on an island off the East Coast of Maine, and it’s one of the few places I’ve been where pine trees meets the ocean (Rialto being the only other one). The Park’s loop road offers access to many little beach points, Sand Beach being the most famous (so famous, in fact, that I couldn’t get a parking space both days I tried to go). There are also some beautiful empty areas, like the rock cliff pictured below (located just past the Gorham Mountain Trailhead parking), and Otter Point, located further up the road. Really, the whole park offers views of the ocean, even when you climb to higher elevation, and there’s a little something for everyone here, whether you’re a hiker or rock climber, or just want to relax by the waves.

As this is a National Park, please follow Leave No Trace principles. Dog are allowed in some areas of the park, but not others.

Acadia National Park, ME

Hawaii

Kaanapali Beach, Maui, HI

I couldn’t write an article about beaches without mentioning the spot that got me in the ocean in the first place. Not only is Hawaii one of the surf capitals of the world, Maui itself is known for its clear water and amazing snorkeling. Kaanapali Beach is one of the more famous beaches out here, known for its famous cliff jumping at Black Rock—a giant cliff made of once-molten lava rock that overlooks the reef. While the cliff jumping is amazing (jumping about 30 feet into the ocean is no joke, though), the snorkeling can’t be beat. With its crystal blue waters and in-tact reef below, you can guarantee that you’ll see tons of fish here, and maybe even the occasional turtle. The beach itself is white sand beaches, behind the Kaanapali Hotel (there is a paid parking lot if you’re not a guest, however, its been so long, I can’t remember how much it costs). This is mostly a swim and family beach, but I don’t think anyone would have a problem if you brought your surfboard along (as long as you avoid the Black Rock area).

It’s important to note, though, that due to coral bleaching, this natural reef isn’t doing its best. Please use reef safe sunscreen if you plan on going in the ocean here, or at any Hawaiian beach.

I unfortunately am not sure if dogs are allowed on Kaanapali Beach, but I think it’s safe to assume that it might be better to leave Fido in the van or hotel room unless you confirm otherwise first.

Kaanapali Beach, Maui, HI, “vintage” circa 2012

While there are more than enough beautiful beaches around the country, if I had to choose five to visit again and again, this would be my list. From the beautiful Pacific Northwest to the crystal clear blue waters of Hawaii, there’s a beach for everyone hiding somewhere in this country, even the mountain lover or self-proclaimed beach-hater. And hey, if you’re out driving coast to coast, you might just discover another seaside hidden gem yourself.

What It’s Really Like To Drive Across the US

When I first hit the road on June 19, 2019, I started in California. I’d grown up around friends saying how badly they’d want to drive to New York from our home City of Angels one day, but never did I imagine that I’d end up doing it the long way, and that I’d do it solo.

I started my first cross-country venture by journeying into the Southwest, leaving behind the roads I knew as I passed Vegas, and saying goodbye to the West for the rest of the summer. The desert is harsh, and driving the Southern route to the East coast in late June and early July was no exception.

Bryce Canyon National Park, UT

My route East went a little like this:

I started with this weird North-bound loop that took me from the deep red Valley of Fire State Park in Nevada to the hoodoos of Bryce Canyon to what looked like another planet in Idaho’s Craters of the Moon. I explored Wyoming’s National Parks, and ended the first leg of my trip in Colorado, where I met my entire extended family for a few days in the high altitude, before heading straight South, through New Mexico, and deep into the deserts of Texas.

Texas is exactly how everyone describes it: huge. And while I loved Big Bend’s cacti and hot springs, by the time I entered my third day in the Lone Star State, I was more than ready to move on to my next destination. Traveling these distances solo in what feels like the middle of nowhere can be taxing, it can be tiring. You have to know the distances between stops, the amount of hours you’re able to stay on the road. You have to be honest with yourself about when you need breaks. But the journey will be so rewarding that these things feel insignificant.

Hot Springs National Park, AR

Leaving the desert behind for the humidity and general strangeness of the deep South was an interesting experience to say the least, and while there were plenty of beautiful and interesting places to explore (hello, Hot Springs National Park!), one of Louisiana’s famous storms pushed me East a little faster than I’d originally planned.

The thing about plans, though, is that really, everything is going to work out the way it’s meant to, and although I planned on spending more than an hour in Alabama, I was feeling drawn to the ocean anyway, so Florida felt like the right place for me to journey to next. The road will bring you to the places that are supposed to change your life, I think, and once you spent enough time letting highways guide you, you’ll start to realize this change taking place.

I landed in Florida at a time when my California soul was craving the ocean again. The Atlantic was a surreal experience, as I set foot on the sand and smelled the familiar ocean-salt air again after a month on the road, because being here meant that I’d done it. Well, one way. I’d driven from Pacific to Atlantic. Now, I just had to drive back, and to do that properly, I’d have to make my way to Maine up the coast.

Making my way from Florida to Maine felt like a breeze compared to driving through the hot, muggy, South, especially because the East coast is conveniently made up of a bunch of tiny states, instead of huge ones (I’m looking at you, Texas). So, once I finally made it to Maine, a milestone clearly marked by pine trees and “Caution: Moose Crossing” signs, I started making my way West, and began the second cross-country road trip I’d do in my life.

Starting in New England was a completely different experience when compared to starting in the Southwest. Instead of red rocks and cacti, picture pine trees, mountains, and very little cell service. On top of that, New England’s states are so compact that I found myself back in New York before I knew it, and ready to brave the section of the country I’d been worried about from the beginning, the Midwest.

Cuyahoga Valley National Park, OH

While it’s hard to spend a lot of time in the Midwest as a traveler, especially a vanlifer (there just aren’t a ton of places to park for the night, but the spots I did choose were amazing), there are a few great hidden gems scattered around these “fly-over states.” From Cuyahoga Valley to the Great Lakes, there truly is something for everyone in every state in the country, even the ones people tend to avoid. My time in the Midwest ended in the beautiful Minnesota Northwoods, where I met a deer on a short, wooded trail and finally felt like I’d accomplished something grand for the first time in a while.

The northern route, in my humble traveler’s opinion, is far prettier and far more unique of a destination than the South. And yes, the route itself counts as a destination (more on this later). Making my way into the Dakotas, I didn’t know what to expect. Everyone told me they’re not worth it, and North Dakota actually has a reputation for being people’s 50th United State. However, North Dakota, to me, will forever be the home of the herd of bison that greeted me as I entered the state’s Theodore Roosevelt National Park, and the sunflower farms I passed on my way to its southern counterpart, South Dakota’s Badlands.

Badlands National Park, SD

The Northern United States is so full of wildlife, rolling grasslands, and towering mountains, and because of that, it felt like so much more of an adventure than my Southern route East I’d completed just a couple months prior. The North is home to a multitude of mountainous National Parks, from Glacier in Montana (aka my favorite place on Earth) to Washington’s Mount Rainier. And because of these vast destinations along the way, it’s almost impossible to get sick of these landscapes as you make your way West, toward the Pacific Ocean.

As someone who grew up near the Pacific, seeing it appear again through the trees as I drove toward Olympic’s Rialto Beach, after not seeing its waves for 2 and a half months, was an emotional experience. But, come to think of it, driving across the country twice, solo, is an emotional experience in itself.

Glacier National Park, MT

You’ll be tested against all odds, you’ll spend more time with yourself than you ever thought you would, and you’ll see things and experience places you can only reach via the open road. Planes don’t land here. And while it’s cliché to say that it’s about the journey, not the destination, that old saying is mostly right. While the destinations are going to be the things you post online or tell your friends about, it’s the journey that changes you, whether you want it to or not.

What I Packed For Three Months On the Road

The trip that inspired me to want to live on the road full time was a 3 month solo road trip around the United States. This trip involved me living full time out of my car and staying mostly at free or cheap campsites in or around National Parks. But the one question I got the most often when people heard this was: “But where does all your stuff go?”

Honestly, I didn’t have that much stuff. I basically packed just the essentials and the only souvenirs I got the whole trip were stickers that went on a storage trunk that I used during the trip for actual storage. So, pretty much everything I had in the car, tucked in corners or hidden in secret compartments to save space had at least one essential purpose… except a few things.

Here’s everything I brought with me on my 3 month road trip around the country, and some things I wish I’d had:

Me and Theon, my Kia Soul, aka my house for three months

Absolute Essentials (things I brought and used literally all the time)

Of course, there were some things that I used every single day, without exception. Since I was simply living out of my Kia Soul, I didn’t have a lot of space, so I wanted to bring things that could serve multiple purposes for the most part, or that were 100% necessary to my survival in what was basically the wilderness.

Kitchen

I didn’t have an actual kitchen so my “kitchen” consisted of what could make up a kitchen on any table at a campsite or rest stop I was parked at (and the occasional tailgate out of my trunk).

·       Camp Stove: my camp stove was absolutely necessary. This camping kitchen must-have will make things so convenient for you, and open doors for you to have actual meals, rather than just sandwiches for three months. I have a Coleman 2 burner camp stove, but there are plenty of options available depending on your needs. Make sure you know what propane your stove uses before you hit the road though!

·       Cooler: honestly, I wish I’d gotten an electric cooler, but regardless, keeping your food cold in some way in a necessity. The only downside is having to buy ice every three days or so.

·       Dishes: I didn’t bring a ton of dishes. For camping on the road, you really need to just think about what you’ll use at each meal. The things I used the most were my mess kit, spork, big pot, little pot, knife, tea kettle, mug, and plate (which doubled as a cutting board).

Camp Stove Kitchen on a bear box in Yellowstone National Park, WY

Clothes

It was super necessary to bring clothes for all seasons because I’d be starting in June in the desert, and ending in September in the mountains, and I did actually experience all weather! But when you’re packing for your own trip, really think about the time of year and destinations you’ll be hitting (or might hit), and don’t bring anything more than that. I probably had about 20 shirts total (t-shirts, tank tops, and long sleeve base layers), 4 sweatshirts/sweaters, 15 pairs of pants, leggings, or shorts, two thicker jackets, 10 pairs of socks, and about 2 weeks worth of underwear (so I could avoid doing laundry as long as possible).

Camping and Hiking Gear

As far as camping and hiking gear other than food-related stuff, I didn’t have or need very much. I had my hiking backpack and water bladder ready at all times, as well as easy access to my hiking boots. But I did use my lantern and multitool a few times!

For Fun

Of course, you need entertainment on the road, especially solo. So, my storage trunk I mentioned earlier was the home for things in my “fun” category. Essential for me when it came to entertainment on the road was my yoga mat and ukulele. I did pack a few books, as well as my sketchbook and journal, but I found myself playing my uke and practicing yoga more than any of those other things. A lot of times when you’re on the road, you don’t want to be in your own head, so these things allowed me to step out of that a little bit.

The inside setup of the car for the whole summer. Yes, I made the curtains myself…

What I Wish I’d Left at Home

We all overpack. This time around, my suitcase just happened to be a bit bigger than normal (car sized, to be exact). So, although I didn’t bring much to start with, there were definitely a few things I didn’t use even once on my trip. Leaving these things at my home base would’ve made the car lighter, and allowed me to have a little more space in the car, so what is it that I could (and did) live without?

·       My tents: I was planning on pitching a tent once or twice on this trip, but instead, I slept in the car every single time I wasn’t staying at a family member’s house. This meant my tents sat squished at the bottom of the car the whole time (and yes, I brought two—one backpacking size and one normal).

·       My ski jacket: while I did need one of my thicker jackets I mentioned in the clothing section, it never got quite cold enough for the actual winter coat I’d lugged around for three months.

·       Lighter fluid and fire starters: I didn’t light a fire once. If I had a campfire, it was because someone invited me to join them, and otherwise, I just went to bed early if I was too cold.

·       Dresses and nice clothes: let’s be honest, I was living in the woods for three months. When I was in cities (on the very rare occasion), I could easily just throw on my one pair of jeans and a t-shirt and be perfectly acceptable. I really didn’t need to take up space in my clothing compartment with the dress, romper, and other nice clothes I thought I’d end up needing.

What I Wish I’d Had With Me

It’s easy to miss the luxuries of home when you’re on the road, so of course there were things I wished I’d thought to bring.

·       Electric cooler: The ice chest was fine, but it would’ve been nice to not have to buy ice all the time, and produce would’ve lasted me longer.

·       Car charger for my laptop: there were so many times I was working out of the back of my car on hotspot and was racing against my battery for time. The Surface Pro does have an available car charger, so I was kicking myself the whole summer that I hadn’t invested in one.

·       A van: honestly? I wouldn’t do this trip in a car again. It was too easy to miss things that I simply could never have in a car no matter what, like a sink and a toilet, so if you’re super committed to long term travel and don’t feel like you need to test it out before hitting the road for months at a time, maybe it would be best to splurge and buy the van instead of doing it out of the car like I did.

One of my beautiful free campsites, somewhere along a Great Lake

Overall, I was happy with everything I brought. Of course, there were a few things I didn’t end up needing, but they didn’t take up all that much space. So, if you’re planning a long term trip, just really think about what it is you’ll need, from shampoo to a tiny refrigerator. The thing is, what I considered necessary might be totally different for you, so go with what you know you’ll use, and consider these things: where you’re going, how long you’ll be there, what season it is/will be in your destinations, and what you love! And remember, everything works out—there’s always shopping to be done on the road.